Iberian Sclerophyllous and Semi-Deciduous Forests

Iberian sclerophyllous and semi-deciduous forests include holm oak forests mostly transformed into an agricultural landscape of olive and almond groves. In wilder spots, a dense shrubland called maquis is found. There are wild olive and carob woodlands. A number of endangered animals are hanging on in the ecoregion, including the Iberian lynx, the Spanish imperial eagle, and the great bustard. Wolves are also present. An endemic shrub, Securineia tinctora, is found in the Guadiana and Tajo river basins.

World Heritage Sites

Alhambra, Generalife, and Albayzin World Heritage Site (N37o11’ W3o35’) recognizes the remains of Arabic Spain from the 13th to the 15th centuries. The Alhambra (red castle) has been called Spain’s most beautiful monument and one of the best examples of Islamic art and architecture in the world.

The Alhambra was built in 1333 as a fortified castle and was used as a royal palace. It was modified by Christians in 16th century. The structure reflects the last centuries of Muslim rule in Spain. It is the only completely preserved complex from the Islamic period. After the Christian conquest in 1527, Charles V built a Renaissance palace within the Alhambra which sharply contrasts with the rest of the complex, and the mosque was replaced by a church. In 1829 the American writer Washington Irving stayed at the Alhambra and was instrumental in publicizing it to the world.

The Generalife was the vegetable garden and rural residence of the emirs, known for intelligent use of water from an aqueduct.

The Alhambra and Albayzin are on two adjacent hills, separated by the Darro River. The Albayzin has been continuously occupied since the Arabic period. A residential district that retains its Moorish vernacular architecture, it is a medieval town with narrow streets and small squares, the best illustration of Moorish town planning. It was enhanced by Christian contributions of Spanish Renaissance and Baroque elements.

Historic Center of Évora World Heritage Site (N38o34’ W7o54’) protects the medieval walled city that was undamaged during the 1755 earthquake that devastated other cities. Within the city are 20 centuries of history, but Évora’s golden age was the 15th century, when it was the residence of Portuguese kings. It is the finest example of the architecture of the golden age of Portugal and was the model for the architecture of much of Brazil. Ruins of the royal palace of Évora are in the public gardens. Still visible today are the Roman temple and the Roman aqueduct, the 13th century Cathedral of Évora, and the 15th century Santa Clara convent, São Francisco convent and church (including the Capela dos Ossos, or Chapel of Bones), and São João Evangelista church and Os Lóios Convent. At the Capela dos Ossos, the walls are covered with skulls and bones. The center of town is Giraldo Square. Along the streets are whitewashed houses decorated with tiles (azuelos) and wrought-iron balconies from the 16th to 18th centuries.

Biosphere Reserve

Parque Natural de la Sierra de Grazalema is an International Biosphere Reserve with limestone caverns, high peaks, and rare plants and animals including the endemic Spanish fir and Egyptian vultures. Cork oak and holm oak groves are present. Rainfall in the park is noted as the highest in Spain. White villages within the park include:

  • Zahara de la Sierra (N36o50’ W5o24’), a high elevation town with a view of a reservoir and a castle built in the 13th century by the Moors.
  • Grazalema (N36o46’ W5o22’), a high elevation village built in the Moslem era. It is famous for textiles made from wool. The main square has a church, bars, and restaurants.

Other sites:

Convento do Espinheiro Hotel, Évora, Portugal (N38o36’5” W7o53’20”) dates to 1458 on the site where an apparition of the Virgin Mary was seen above a thorn bush (espinheiro). The facility was visited frequently by Portuguese royalty.

Monsaraz (N38o26’36” W7o22’51”) is a medieval walled town on an isolated mountaintop in eastern Portugal. Dramatic views are possible from the town and the fort. Medieval fortifications enclose a castle and the town and were built in the 12th to 14th centuries. Additional fortifications were added in the 17th century after the restoration of Portuguese independence. The new fortifications were responsive to the invention of firearms. In the former town hall of the municipality of Monsaraz is the Museu do Fresco. The frescoe was discovered in 1958 during renovations to the structure and was located behind a wall. It is believed to date to the 14th century and depicts good and bad government similar to a 1340 painting in Siena, Italy. Also in town is the House of the Inquisition, which contains a museum about Jewish residents prior to the Reconquest.

Olivenza, Extremadura Autonomous Region, Spain (N38o41’ W7o6’) is administered as part of Extremadura but is claimed by Portugal based on treaties dating back to 1297. Although the Guadiana River is the de facto boundary between the two countries, the border is not shown on a Portuguese highway map purchased in Lisbon (Turinta Mapas, Portugal, 1:600.000), suggesting the boundary is in dispute. The town contains Manueline (Portuguese) architecture, and the Church of Santa Maria Magdalena exemplifies this architectural style.

A city since Roman times, Ronda (N36o45’ W5o10’) is the largest of Andalucia’s white villages, with a population of was conquered first by the Berbers in 713 and then by the Christians in 1485. A railroad was completed to the mountain town (elevation 2,460 feet) from Algeciras in 1892 to provide relief from the heat of Gibraltar in the summer. Ernest Hemingway and Orson Welles spent time in the city.

Arab baths at the entrance to city in the river gorge at Ronda (El Tajo) are the best preserved in Spain. The baths are at the confluence of the Culebras Creek with the Guadelevín River, which ensured a reliable water supply. The Arab baths were used as steam baths. It was obligatory for all outsiders visiting the city to use them. The baths were in an area of small shops including potters and tanners.

The Puente Nuevo (New bridge) was completed over the Rio Guadelevín in 1793. It is 390 feet above El Tajo canyon floor. The former town hall is now a hotel adjacent to the bridge.

Plaza de Toros de Ronda is the oldest bull ring in Spain, dating to 1572. The current complex contains a horse-training facility and a museum of bullfighting in addition to the bull ring.

The Museum of Ronda is in Mondragon Palace, which was the palace of Moorish kings after 1314. It exhibits three architectural styles, including a Mudehar-style patio, Castillian-style patio, and Noble Hall, with a flat alfarje ceiling. Exhibits track the archaeological history of the area from caves in the mountains dating to 500,000 years before present through the Late Antiquity period after the Romans.

Hotel Catalonia Reina Victoria, Ronda (N36o44’48” W5o10’10”) was built in 1906 on a cliff overlooking the mountains. It was the residence of the poet and writer Rainer Maria Rilke, who was born in Prague and wrote in the German language on existential themes.

 

Southwest Iberian Mediterranean sclerophyllous and mixed forests

Southwest Iberian Mediterranean sclerophyllous and mixed forests (PA 1221) are found on the Atlantic coastal strip of southern Portugal and Spain, especially in the Guadiana, Tajo, and Guadalquivir River basins. The most common forest is of cork oaks, mixed with other genera such as Laurus, Arbutus, Erica, and Ilex. Holm oak and holly oak are also common. Scleroophyllous forests typically have evergreen leaves, which are thick and leathery and small to conserve water.

World Heritage Sites within this ecoregion include:

Monastery of Batalha World Heritage Site, Leiria District,Portugal (N39o39’33” W8o49’34”) was constructed at the end of the 14th century. It is considered a masterpiece of Gothic art. King John I built the structure in gratitude for a victory at the battle of Aljubarrota in 1385 over the Castilians, in which King John obtained the throne and independence of Portugal. In the chapel are the tombs of the king and his wife, as well as his sons.

Complex of Belem (Monastery of the Hieronymites and Tower of Belem) World Heritage Site, Lisbon Municipality, Portugal, includes the Tower of Belem (Torre de Belem) and the Jeronimos Monastery (Hieronymites Monastery). Both commemorate Portuguese power in the Age of Discovery in the 15th and 16th centuries. The Tower of Belem (N38o41’30” W9o12’57”) was built on a small island from 1514 to 1520 for defense of the Tagus estuary and is considered an architectural jewel of its time. It commemorates the maritime discoveries of Portugal and is a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. The nearby Hieronymites Monastery (N38o41’50” W9o12’25”) was built to provide spiritual assistance to seafarers and to pray for the king.

The University of Coimbra World Heritage Site, Coimbra District, Portugal (N40o12’30’ W8o25’30”), includes the hilltop campus and botanical gardens of the university (Alta area), including the hilltop the Royal Palace of Alcazaba (Paco das Escolas or University Palace) and the Joanine Library with baroque décor and documents extending back to medieval times; as well as buildings along Sofia Street (N40o12’44” W8o25’47”) including the 12th century Cathedral of Santa Cruz. As the country’s oldest university (dating from 1290), Coimbra played a key role in the institutional and architectural development of universities throughout the Portuguese colonies. It has outstanding universal value as a university city hilltop location for the Portuguese world encompassing four continents in the colonial era.

Historic Center of Córdoba World Heritage Site, Autonomous Community of Andalusia, Spain, includes the Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba, the Judería, the Roman Bridge, the Torre de la Calahorra, and Molino de Albolafia (flour mills). Other notable sites are the Sinagoga, Caballerizas Reales (Royal Stables), and Alcazar de los Reyes Christianos (Fortress of Christian Monarchs). This area became urban in Roman times and has subsequently been occupied for thousands of years by Visigoth, Islam, Judaism, and Christian peoples. In the 8th century, 300 mosques, other palaces, and other public buildings were built in the city, and Cordoba was the main urban and cultural focus of the western world.

  • Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba (N37o52’45” W4o46’45”), or the Great Mosque, is one of the world’s greatest Islamic buildings and the most important monument in the western Islamic world. Construction began in 786 and it was expanded to its current size in 991. Unique features are double arches in the roof, a ribbed vault with intertwined arches, and 856 columns, some recycled from Roman ruins, to hold up the arches. The arches have a distinctive terracotta and white-striped pattern. An intricate mihrab, or prayer niche, faces Mecca. With the conquest of Córdoba in 1236, the mosque was converted into a church. The church is known as the Capilla Mayor, and is a Gothic chapel built completely inside of the mosque in the 15th A Renaissance cathedral was built inside the mosque in the 16th and 17th centuries. Entrance to the Mosque-Cathedral is through the Patio of the Oranges, which has orange trees and fountains.
  • Judería (Jewish Quarter) is to the west and north of the Great Mosque. The narrow cobblestone streets and whitewashed walls are typical of Andalusia. However, there are also the Courtyard Houses of Córdoba, which are distinctive in being communal and built around interior courtyards. This design is believed to be of Roman origin. The Andalusian touch is the hanging flower gardens that adorn the walls of the courtyards, with a fountain in the middle and a well to catch rainwater. Some patios date to the 10th The annual Courtyards Festival in May is a World Heritage Event.
  • Puente Romano (Roman bridge) features 16 arches and its appearance was enhanced by an 8th century Moorish reconstruction. It was featured in the Game of Thrones television series. Today it is a pedestrian-only bridge.
  • Museum Torre de la Calahorra (N37o52’32” W4o46’36”) is in a tower built to protect the Roman bridge and guard the entrance to the city that is noted during the Islamic Period. In 1369, additions were made to make the tower a more effective defensive structure. The museum features exhibits on life in Córdoba during the 10th century when Christians, Muslims, and Jews lived there.
  • Molino de Albolafia includes a water wheel which has been on the city logo since the 13th They are first believed to be built by Romans but are also known to have carried water to the Emir’s palaces in the Islamic period. They were taken out of operation during the Christian reconquest.
  • Sinagoga dates to 1315 and was believed to be a family synagogue.
  • Caballerizas Reales date to 1567.
  • Alcazar de los Reyes Christianos is the palace where Ferdinand and Isabella met Columbus and dates to the 13th and 14th

Cathedral, Alcázar, and Archivo de Indies in Seville World Heritage Site (N37o23’0” W5o59’30”) commemorates three adjacent buildings in Seville, Autonomous Community of Andalusia, Spain. Together, they are an exceptional testimony to the civilization of Islamic and Christian Andalusia. The sites epitomize the Spanish golden age, with vestiges of Islamic culture, Christian ecclesiastical power, royal sovereignty, and trading power.

  • Real Alcázar and Gardens of Sevilla, begun in the 10th century as the palace of the Moslem governor, was reconstructed on the same site by Moorish workers working for the Christian King, Peter the Cruel of Castile, in the 1360s. It is currently used as the Spanish royal family residence when in Seville and is the oldest royal palace in Europe still being used. The palatial buildings and extensive garden display cultural treasures from the Renaissance to Neoclassical periods. It is directly associated with the discovery of the New World and its colonization, for within the Alcazar is Cuarto del Almirante, or Admiral’s Hall, headquarters of the House of Trade with the Americas, where plans for history’s greatest expeditions were made, including Magellan’s circumnavigation of the globe. The Italian Renaissance gardens extend south from the Alcazar. Episodes of the Game of Thrones TV series were filmed at the Alcazar.
  • Jewish Quarter (Santa Cruz district) occupies the city adjacent to the Alcazar. A wall was constructed to separate Jews from the rest of the city following the Reconquest. After 1391, most Jews left after the reconquest persecuted the population of non-Christians.
  • Catedral de Sevilla (Cathedral of St. Mary of the See) is the largest Gothic cathedral (seat of the bishop) in the world and one of the largest churches in the world. It was constructed from 1184 to 1198 as a mosque. Following the reconquest in 1248, the mosque was used as a Cathedral. The Gothic Cathedral was constructed between 1434 and 1517. In the 1500s, Renaissance-period works were added, and in the 1600s Baroque phases were added. Inside the cathedral are several tombs, including that of Christopher Columbus. Giralda Tower on the east wall is the former minaret of the mosque and is now used as the bell tower of the cathedral. It dates to 1195 and is considered a masterpiece of Islamic architecture. The top of the tower can be reached by a walkway of 34 ramps and a final flight of stairs.
  • The General Archive of the Indies dates to 1598 and contains valuable historic documents on the colonization of the Americas. The building is Spanish Renaissance architecture and is between the Cathedral and Alcazar.

The Cultural Landscape of Sintra, Lisbon District, Portugal, is described as “an extraordinary and unique complex of parks, gardens, palaces, country houses, monasteries and castles, which create an architecture that harmonizes with the exotic and overgrown vegetation, creating micro-landscapes of exotic and luxuriant beauty…This syncretism between nature and ancient monuments, villas and quintas [estates] with monasteries and chalets influenced the development of landscape architecture throughout Europe.” (https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/723 ). The following properties are included in the World Heritage site:

  • The Convent of the Capuchos (Arrabalde convent) (N38o47’3” W9o26’17”) was founded in 1374, destroyed in a 1755 earthquake, rebuilt, and abandoned in 1834.
  • The Chalet and Garden of the Countess of Edla (N38o47’6” W9o23’57”) was built as a retreat in the 19th century for King Fernando II and his future wife, the Countess of Edla.
  • The Park and Palace of Montserrate (N38o47’40” W9o25’15”) was built in the 19th century and is considered one of the most beautiful architectural and landscape Romantic properties in Portugal. The Farmyard of Monserrate served the palace of Montserrate and today is managed to reflect the cultural heritage of agriculture in the region.
  • The Moorish Castle (N38o47’33” W9o23’21”) was built in the 8th and 9th
  • The Park and Palace of Pena (N38o47’15” W9o23’25”) are the greatest expression of European Romanticism in Portugal, built by King Ferdinand II in the 19th It is one of the seven wonders of Portugal. The gardens contain 500 tree species. The Pena Farm and Stables were used for carriage rides and contain a hillside planted with tea.
  • The National Palace of Sintra (N38o47’51” W9o23’26”) is in the town center. A grandiose and magnificent palace of the kings of Portugal, it is the best preserved medieval royal residence in Portugal. It was built as a Moorish fort in the 11th century, conquered by Christians in 1147, and improved by various kings from 1281 to the 16th The silhouette has remained the same since the 16th century. The palace retains geometric tiles and arched windows of Moorish era. Distinctive cone-shaped chimneys are visible in the kitchen area. One of the most important features of the national palace is facing with tiles, the finest example on the Iberian Peninsula. Management of the state-owned property is by Parques de Sintra-Monte da Lua, S.A., a non-profit corporation.
  • Other buildings in the World Heritage site are the Palace of Seteais (late 18th /early 19th century), the Regaleira estate (late 17th century), the Town Hall (early 20th century), and 4 churches in Sintra.

International Biosphere Reserve in the ecoregion:

Parque Natural de la Sierra de Grazalema, Cádiz Province, Autonomous Community of Andalusia, Spain, is an International Biosphere Reserve with limestone caverns, high peaks, and rare plants and animals including the endemic Spanish fir and Egyptian vultures. Cork oak and holm oak groves are present. Rainfall in the park is noted as the highest in Spain.  White villages within the park include:

  • Quesos El Bosqueño (N36o45’ E5o31’), an artisan cheese-making factory in the village of El Bosque (the forest), which makes traditional cheeses from goat and sheep milk.
  • Zahara de la Sierra (N36o50’ W5o24’), a high elevation town with a view of a reservoir and a castle built in the 13th century by the Moors.

Other sites in the ecoregion of note include:

Coimbra District, Portugal

Conimbriga Museum and Archaeological Park (N40o5’57” W8o29’37”), Condeixa-a-Nova, Portugal, preserves the remains of a large Roman settlement, which was constructed by the Romans from their arrival in 139 BC until barbarian invasions in 468. It is considered the best-preserved Roman ruin in Portugal.  The walled settlement was served by an aqueduct, baths, and Roman road, which can still be viewed. The Repuxos House (Fountain House) contains a garden with original irrigation system and 500 water jets which are still operational.

Pousada de Coindeixa Coimbra, Condeixa-a-Nova (N40o7’2” W8o29’4”), is a restored building used as a hotel on the site of the 16th century former palace of the Almadas, a noble family.

Evora District, Portugal

Cromeleque dos Almendres (N38o33’27” W8o3’40”) is a double circle of 95 stones erected about 5000 B.C. This makes it 2,000 years older than Stonehenge and the oldest megalithic monument in Europe. The monument is associated with the development of Neolithic communities in Europe. The stones’ flattened side faces the sun, and some have geometric carvings. The stone circles are a short walk from a parking area on a hilltop forested with cork oak trees. The hilltop is the drainage dividing line of the three largest rivers in Portugal, the Tagus, Sado, and Guadiana. The site is accessible from the village of Nossa Senhora de Guadalupe via signed dirt roads. On the drive to the parking area is another marked side trail to the Menhir dos Almendres (N38o33’50” W8o2’54”), a single granite monolith rising 4 meters. A line from the menhir to the stone circle marks sunrise in the summer solstice.

Lisbon District, Portugal

Palace of the Arches (Vila Gale Collection Palacio dos Arcos, Paco de Arcos, Oeiras Municipality, Lisbon District, Portugal), is a hotel built in the 15th century; the king watched ships leaving for India from the balcony. The current hotel is dedicated to Portuguese poetry, with verses from famous poetry on the walls of public areas. Public gardens are adjacent to the palace (N38o41’48” W9o17’21”).

Lisbon Municipality sites include:

  • National Azuelejo (Tile) Museum (N38o43’28” W9o6’50”) displays hundreds of ornate patterns in the rooms of the former Convent of Madre Deus, 1509. The decorative tiles date from the 15th century to the present. Also, ceramics and porcelain are also displayed.
  • The Alfama District (N38o43’ W9o8’) of Lisbon is a former Muslim district with a maze of narrow streets and home of Fado music.
  • Restoration Square (Restauradores) (N38o43’ W9o8’30”) and Baixa District (downtown) including the Santa Justa elevator. The name celebrates the restoration of the independence of Portugal in 1640, after 60 years of having a shared king with Spain.
  • Parque Eduardo VII (N38o43’50” W9o9’17”) provides a panoramic view of Lisbon and the Tejo (Tagos) River from a hill above the city. It was named for an English king who visited in 1902.

Parque Natural Sintra-Cascais is 14,583 ha and includes megalithic monuments, the Guincho-Oitavas dunes, Guincho Beach, Ribafria estate, Ramalhao Palace, the Sanctuary of Peninha, and the Cultural Landscape of Sintra World Heritage Site. It is the westernmost point on the European continent. The Cultural Landscape of Sintra World Heritage Site (see) is within this park. Also, the coastal overlook, rocky coastline, and wildflowers at Cape Raso, Guincho Beach, Cascais Municipality (N38o43’ W9o29’), are part of the park. A view to the north is of Cape Roca, the westernmost point in the European continent.

National Palace and Gardens of Queluz (N38o45’0” W9o15’30”), Sintra Municipality, Lisbon District, Portugal, is a royal residence located west of Lisbon. It is a landmark of both Portuguese architecture and landscape design from the 18th and 19th centuries and includes baroque, rococo, and neoclassical influence. It is sometimes compared with Versailles. The structure was built as a summer palace in 1747 and transferred to state management in 1908. The Queluz Gardens surround the palace on three sides and include a botanical garden, a channel for boat or gondola rides, a maze garden, hanging garden, and Malta garden. Management of the state-owned property is by Parques de Sintra-Monte da Lua, S.A., a non-profit corporation.

Santarém District, Portugal

Campanhia das Lezirias is a state-run farm located at the confluence of the Tagus and Sado Rivers. It is currently 20,000 ha in area and is managed for agriculture (rice), cattle, breeding of Lusitano horses (the oldest saddle horse breed in the world), and forestry.  The farm includes the Estate Monte de Braco de Prata (restaurant, horse sports activity center, and stud farm (N38o52’47” W8o51’45”), the cork oak forest (N38o49’ W8o51’), and the Catapereiro Winery (N38o48’47” W8o52’56”).

Cádiz Province, Andalusia, Spain

Arcos de la Frontera (N36o44’52” W5o48’24”) is dramatically positioned on a rocky cliff above the Guadalete River. There is a tangled labyrinth of cobblestone streets with a castle at the high point. The castle has shields of the Dukes of Arcos on the outside. An overlook and hotel are adjacent to the castle. The town was at the frontier in the 13th century battles with the Moors.

Seville Province, Andalusia, Spain

Hotel Inglaterra, Sevilla, is an 1857 hotel is located on Plaza Nueva (N37o23’20” W5o59’45”), opposite the city hall. It features a rooftop bar with a panoramic view of the city including the cathedral. In the 19th century, monarchs visiting Seville stayed at the Iglaterra Inn. Behind the city hall was a prison that held Cervantes. During his time in jail in 1598 he conceived the idea of Don Quixote, the most influential work of Spanish literature.

Plaza de España, Sevilla (N37o22’35” W5o59’10”), was built for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929 as a semi-circular brick building in the Renaissance style. It was the location for the filming of movies such as Star Wars and Lawrence of Arabia. Today it offers a park-like setting along the Guadalquivir River.

Sierra Nevada Forests, Part 4B: Reservoirs, Trails, Wilderness

Reservoirs and Hydroelectric Power Projects
This section includes federally authorized hydroelectric projects, reservoirs located on federal lands, and reservoirs constructed by federal agencies. Because of the large number of hydroelectric developments in the Sierra Nevada, reservoirs are listed by river basin.
Kaweah River
Crystal Lake, Southern California Edison (N36º26’ W118º34’) is a storage dam for Kaweah Hydro Plant near Mineral King.
Eagle Lake, Southern California Edison, Sequoia National Park (N36º25’ W118º36’) is a storage dam for Kaweah Hydro Plant near Mineral King.
Franklin Lake, Southern California Edison, Sequoia National Park (N36º25’ W118º34’) is a storage dam for Kaweah Hydro Plant near Mineral King.
Marble Flat Diversion Dam, Southern California Edison, Sequoia National Park (36º31’ W118º48’).
Middle Fork Diversion Dam, Southern California Edison, Sequoia National Park (36º31’ W118º47’)
Upper Monarch Lake, Southern California Edison, Sequoia National Park (N36º27’ W118º34’) is a storage dam for the Kaweah Hydro Plant near Mineral King
National Trails System
Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail
Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail extends 2,600 miles from Canada to Mexico, passing through some of the most scenic areas in California. The Sierra Nevada section provides a tour of wilderness areas. Beginning at Walker Pass National Historic Landmark on State Route 178 (N35º40’ W118º2’), the trail passes through Owens Peak Wilderness (N35º44’ W118º0’), crosses Canebrake Road into Chimney Peak Wilderness (N35º50’ W118º3’), crosses Chimney Basin Road into Domeland Wilderness (N35º54’ W118º7’), and exits Domeland at Kennedy Meadows in the Inyo National Forest (N36º3’ W118º8’). North of Kennedy Meadows, the trail follows the Kern River in South Sierra Wilderness. The trail then crosses the Golden Trout Wilderness boundary (N36º16’ W118º8’) and passes Big Dry Meadow and Trail Pass in the wilderness before entering Sequoia National Park (N36º28’ W118º16’). The trail crosses the Bighorn Plateau in the park and then enters Kings Canyon National Park at Forester Pass (N36º42’ W118º22’). Within the park the trail follows portions of both the Middle Fork and South Fork Kings River Wild Rivers. The trail leaves Kings Canyon National Park on the South Fork San Joaquin River (N37º14’ W118º50’) and enters the John Muir Wilderness. The trail passes Selden Pass, Silver Pass, and Tully Hole in the wilderness before crossing into Ansel Adams Wilderness at Crater Meadow (N37º35’ W119º3’).

National Recreation Trails (NRTs)
Cannell Meadow NRT, Sequoia NF, is a mountain bike trail extending for 11.5 miles from the horse corrals two miles north of Kernville (N35º46’ W118º26’) to Pine Flat and ending at Cannell Meadow (N35º50’ W118º22’). The trail offers views of the Kern River valley.
Congress NRT, Sequoia NP, California (N36º34’ W118º45’) is a two-mile trail through the Giant Forest on Generals Highway, passing numerous giant sequoia trees, many of which are named after famous people or institutions.
Crystal Cave NRT, Sequoia NP, California (N36º35’ W118º50’) is a one-half mile trail, the entrance path for visitors touring the underground caverns.
Jackass Creek NRT, Sequoia NF (N36ᵒ5’ W118º14’), is a six-mile off-highway vehicle trail beginning north of Fish Lake Campground on Sherman Pass Road (Forest Road 21S01) west of South Sierra Wilderness. The trail ends near Jackass Peak.
Summit NRT, Giant Sequoia NM, California, extends 12 miles north from Windy Gap on Forest Road 21S94 (N36º3’ W118º35’), crossing Slate Mountain Botanical Area, then crossing State Route 190 at Quaking Aspen (N36º7’ W118º33’). The national recreation trail portion ends at Log Cabin Meadow and the Clicks Creek Trailhead (N36º10’ W118º34’). Summit Trail continues north into the Golden Trout Wilderness and Sequoia National Park.
Zumwalt Meadow NRT, Kings Canyon NP, California (N36º47’ W118º36’), leads 1.5 miles through the Kings River valley, with views of the Grand Sentinel, which consists of vertical granite cliffs. The trailhead is three miles east of Cedar Grove Village.

Wild and Scenic Rivers

The Kern River (designated as North Fork Kern River in the wild and scenic river system) within Sequoia National Park, Golden Trout Wilderness, and Sequoia National Forest is part of the national wild and scenic river system from its headwaters at Harrison Pass (N36º42’ W118º24’) downstream to the Tulare-Kern County line (N35º48’ W118º27’). The North Fork is the longest, linear, glacially sculptured valley in the world. Virgin riparian woodlands are found here.

The South Fork Kern River, Dome Land Wilderness, Golden Trout Wilderness, Inyo National Forest, Sequoia National Forest, and South Sierra Wilderness, is a wild and scenic river for 73 miles from its headwaters in the Golden Trout Wilderness (N36º25’ W118º14’) downstream to the Sequoia National Forest boundary in the Dome Land Wilderness (N35º45’ W118º11’). It is a whitewater river through the Dome Land Wilderness.

National Wilderness Preservation System

The 23 areas that make up the National Wilderness Preservation System include some of the oldest and largest areas in the wilderness system. The John Krebs Wilderness and Sequoia-Kings Canyon Wilderness areas are described under Man and the Biosphere Reserves.
Chimney Peak Wilderness, National System of Public Lands, California (N35º52’ W118º3’), is 13,100 acres surrounded by the Dome Land Wilderness on the north, west, and south, the Owens Peak Wilderness on the east, and the Sacatar Trail wilderness on the northeast. These canyons and ridges at the southern tip of the Sierra Nevada contain cottonwoods, cactus, pinyon pine, and sagebrush. Chimney Creek is a trout stream. The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail traverses two sections of the wilderness, one east of Chimney Basin Road (N35º54’ W118º7’) and another north of Canebrake Road (N35º51’ W118º4’).
Dome Land Wilderness, Sequoia National Forest and National System of Public Lands, California, is 133,160 acres at the transition from the southernmost Sierra Nevada Mountains into the deserts. The northern portions are a large basin with conifers and wet meadows and the southern portions include granite domes. The northernmost point is on Bitter Creek (N36º2’ W118º10’), the easternmost point is near Chimney Creek (N35º53’ W118º2’), and the southernmost point is Gibonney Canyon near Onyx on State Route 178 (N35º41’ W118º16’). Major named features in the wilderness are Pine Mountain (N36º1’ W118º11’), Woodpecker Meadow (N35º58’ W118º16’), Rockhouse Basin (N35º56’ W118º10’), White Dome (N35º52’ W118º13’), Chimney Creek (N35º47’ W118º6’), and Pilot Knob (N35º44’ W118º13’). On the north edge of the wilderness in the Kern Plateau area, Bald Mountain Botanical Area (N36º1’ W118º15’) is protected for a rare Horkelia species, along with five pines and two fir species. The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail traverses the wilderness for nine miles from Kennedy Meadows (N36º3’ W118º8’) south to Chimney Basin Road (N35º54’ W118º7’). Church Dome Research Natural Area (N35º52’ W118º16’) is a Jeffrey pine high elevation forest. The South Fork Kern River is a wild and scenic river from where it enters the wilderness at Kennedy Meadows (N36º1’ W118º8’) south 28 miles to where it leaves the Sequoia National Forest (N35º45’ W118º11’). Other wildernesses bordering Dome Land are Chimney Peak on the east, Owens Peak on the southeast, Sacatar Trail to the northeast, South Sierra on the north, and Kiavah on the south.
Golden Trout Wilderness, Inyo and Sequoia National Forests and Giant Sequoia National Monument, California, is 303,500 acres. Most of the wilderness is in the high Sierra meadows and forests, but the wilderness grades into the Mojave Desert ecoregion on its eastern side. The southeastern end is at Olancha Creek (N36º16’ W118º3’), the northeastern area is at Timosea Peak (N36º27’ W118º5’), the northwestern end is west of the North Fork Middle Fork Tule River (N36º18’ W118º40’), and the southwestern end is at the Forks of the Kern (N36º8’ W118º26’). The portion in the national monument includes Maggie Mountain (N36º16’ W118º37’) and its sequoia groves, Moses Mountain Research Natural Area, and South Mountaineer Creek RNA. In the Sequoia National Forest, the wilderness includes the Kern Plateau and the North and South Forks Kern National Wild and Scenic Rivers. In the Inyo National Forest portion, Jordan Hot Springs (N36º14’ W118º18’) is on Nine Mile Creek. Located along a historic wagon road across the Sierras, this was a 20th century resort that operated until 1990. In 1918, it was noted as having a big dance floor. Another scenic section in the Inyo portion is Volcano Meadow (N36º21’ W118º19’) and adjoining cinder cones. The trail up Golden Trout Creek from the Kern River passes a natural bridge formed by lava flows and Volcano Falls. In the northernmost portion on the John Muir Wilderness boundary, Golden Trout Camp provides week-long natural history workshops in the summer (www.goldentroutworkshops.com). Mountains include Cirque Peak (12,900’) on the John Muir Wilderness boundary (N36º29’ W118º14’), Toowa Range (N36º18’ W118º16’), the Great Western Divide (N36º17’ W118º28’), and Flatiron (N36º11’ W118º25’). Other features are Horseshoe Meadow (N36º27’ W118º10’), which is the major Inyo National Forest trailhead, Big Whitney Meadow (N36º26’ W118º16’), Strawberry Meadow (N36º18’ W118º11’), East Potholes (N36º15’ W118º9’), and Hells Hole (N36º15’ W118º22’). Hiking information is maintained at goldentroutwilderness.wordpress.com. The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail traverses the wilderness from the Sequoia National Park boundary (N36º28’ W118º16’), through Trail Pass and Big Dry Meadow to the South Sierra Wilderness boundary (N36º16’ W118º8’). The Kern River is a wild and scenic river from where it enters the wilderness from Sequoia National Park (N36º21’ W118º24’) downstream to the wilderness boundary at Forks of the Kern (N36º8’ W118º26’), which is the confluence of the Little Kern River. The South Fork Kern River within the wilderness is a wild and scenic river from its headwaters north of South Fork Meadow (N36º25’ W118º14’) for 20 miles downstream to where it leaves the wilderness north of Monache Meadows (N36º16’ W118º12’). South Mountaineer Creek candidate RNA (N36º12’ W118º36’) is 603 acres, including red fir forest near its southernmost limit. Other forest types are western white pine and lodgepole pine. Moses Mountain RNA (N36º17’ W118º 40’) is a giant sequoia forest with notable reproduction of younger trees. Also included is Long Meadow and areas of red fir forest. Last Chance Meadow RNA (N36º27’ W118º9’) is a 660-acre foxtail pine forest near Horseshoe Meadows. Some trees in the subalpine forest grow to 1,500 years in age. The RNA borders the Pacific Crest Trail. The wilderness borders the John Krebs, John Muir and Sequoia-Kings Canyon wildernesses on the north and South Sierra Wilderness on the south.
Jennie Lakes Wilderness, Sequoia National Forest, California, is 10,300 acres and includes 10,000-foot Mitchell Peak (N36º44’ W118º43’) adjacent to Kings Canyon National Park. The area contains ponds, meadows, and forests of red fir, lodgepole pine, and western white pine. Jennie Ellis Lake (N36º41’ W118º46’) and Weaver Lake (N36º42’ W118º48’) are within the wilderness. The wilderness borders the Sequoia-Kings Canyon wilderness on the east and south and the Giant Sequoia National Monument on the north.
Monarch Wilderness, Sequoia National Forest, Giant Sequoia National Monument and Sierra National Forest, California, is 44,900 acres, with elevations ranging from 2,000 feet on the South Fork Kings River to 11,000 feet at Hogback Peak. It is divided into two sections by the Kings River and State Route 180. This area includes rugged mountains and multicolored rock formations to the west of Kings Canyon NP that are vegetated with chaparral and pine. In the south section are Agnew Grove (N36º47’ W118º47’), Yucca Point (N36º50’ W118º52’), and Windy Cliffs (N36º49’ W118º49’), along with trail access. The Kanawyer Trail provides views into Kings Canyon. The northern section is accessed by Deer Cove Trail which winds to Grizzly Lakes and Wildman Meadow (N36º50’ W118º42’). Other sites in the northern section are Mount Harrington (N36º52’ W118º44’), Little Tehipite Valley (N36º53’ W118º48’), and Deer Canyon (N36º52’ W118º53’). The Middle Fork Kings River Wild River bisects the wilderness from the confluence with the South Fork (N36º50’ W118º53’) upstream to the Kings Canyon National Park boundary (N36º53’ W118º48’). The South Fork Kings River Wild and Scenic River forms the southern border, then bisects the wilderness from the confluence with the Middle Fork upstream to Kings Canyon National Park boundary (N36º48’ W118º42’). The wilderness borders the John Muir wilderness on the northwest and the Sequoia-Kings Canyon Wilderness on the north and east. The Windy Gulch Geologic Area (N36º48’ W118º50’) is partially in the wilderness and partially in Sequoia National Monument. It includes Boyden Cave and the Evans Grove of giant sequoias.
John Krebs Wilderness, Sequoia National Park, California, is 40,000 acres and extends from the road to Mineral King south to the South Fork Kaweah River and Clough Cave (N36º21’ W118º46’). It is described under the Man and the Biosphere Reserves section.
Owens Peak Wilderness, National System of Public Lands, California, is a 73,900-acre transition area between the Great Basin, Mojave Desert, and Sierra Nevada with a variety of vegetation types including creosote bush, yucca, oak, and pinyon-juniper. The southernmost point is on State Route 178 west of Freeman Junction (N35º37’ 117º56’) and the northernmost point is at Chimney Meadow (N35º51’ W118º1’). Walker Pass National Historic Landmark (N35º40’ W118º2’) is on the southern edge of the wilderness on State Route 178. The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail traverses the wilderness from Walker Pass to Canebrake Road (N35º50’ W118º3’), passing 8,400-foot Owens Peak (N35º44’ W118º0’).
Sacatar Trail Wilderness, National System of Public Lands, California, is 50,500 acres bordered by the Inyo National Forest on the north near Lewis Canyon (N36º3’ W118º1’), Owens Peak Wilderness on the south near Deadfoot Canyon (N35º52’ W117º56’), Los Angeles Aqueduct on the east, Dome Land Wilderness on the west, and Kennedy Meadow Road (N35º58’ W118º6’) on the northwest. Features include Sacatar Canyon (N35º59’ W118º1’), Little Lake Canyon (N35º57’ W117º58’), Fivemile Canyon (N35º54’ W117º58’), and Scodia Meadow (N35º53’ W118º0’). The transition between the Sierra Nevada and Mojave Desert ecoregion includes Joshua trees and pinyon-juniper. Sequoia-Kings Canyon Wilderness, California, is 768,000 acres and includes most of the undeveloped areas of the two national parks. It is described in detail under Man and the Biosphere Reserves.
South Sierra Wilderness, Inyo and Sequoia National Forests, California, is 60,000 acres and contains high elevation meadow lands, fir, and pine on the west side an pinyon-juniper on the east side. The north end is at Olanche Peak (N36º16’ W118º7’) and the south end is along the South Fork Kern River near Kennedy Meadows (N36º2’ W118º8’). Features included are Ball Mountain (N36º4’ W118º6’), Haiwee Pass (N36º8’ W118º4’), Round Mountain (N36º11’ W118º4’), Olanche Pass (N36º13’ W118º6’), Jackass Peak (N36º8’ W118º12’), and Finger Rock (N36º7’ W118º10’). The South Fork Kern Wild and Scenic River traverses the wilderness from Monache Meadow (N36º11’ W118º9’) to Kennedy Meadows. The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail crosses the wilderness from Kennedy Meadows (N36º3’ W118º8’) north to the Golden Trout Wilderness boundary (N36 16’ W118 8’). The South Fork Kern River is a national wild and scenic river as if flows through the wilderness from Deer Island (N36º11’ W118º9’) south to Kennedy Meadows (N36º2’ W118º8’).
Other Federal Sites
Kaweah Area of Critical Environmental Concern, National System of Public Lands, California (N36º24’ W118º48’) is east of Three Rivers near the Sequoia National Park boundary, between the Middle Fork and South Fork Kaweah Rivers. This area contains the Case Mountain sequoia grove and rare plant habitat.
Chimney Peak Special Recreation Management Area, National System of Public Lands, California (N35º49’ W118º3’) includes the Chimney Peak Backcountry Byway, campgrounds, and a portion of the Pacific Crest Trail in the southern Sierra Nevada range. The Chimney Peak, Dome Land, and Owens Peak Wilderness areas are accessed from the byway, which begins at State Route 178.
Cyrus Canyon Area of Critical Environmental Concern, National System of Public Lands, California (N35º43’ W118º23’) contains habitat for the Kelso Creek monkeyflower to the north of Lake Isabella.
Indian Creek Recreation Area, National System of Public Lands, California (N38º45’ W119º47’), is 7,000 acres in the eastern Sierra north of Markleeville off of State Route 89. A campground, eight miles of trails, and the Curtz Lake Environmental Study Area are featured.
Keyesville Special Recreation Management Area, National System of Public Lands, California (N35º38’ W118º30’) is a whitewater recreation area, mountain biking, and off-road vehicle area downstream from Isabella Lake.
State and Local Sites
Balch County Park, California (N36º13’ W118º41’) is a campground surrounded by Mountain Home Demonstration State Forest, described separately. The park is administered by Tulare County.
Canebrake Ecological Reserve, California, is 7,200 acres along the South Fork Kern River adjacent to the Dome Land Wilderness. The Bluefield Ranch and Cap Canyon units (N35º43’ W118º18’) are along State Route 178. The Scodie Canyon unit (N35º39’ W118º11’) is south of Onyx, and the Canebrake Creek unit (N35º42’ W118º18’) is along Fay Ranch Road southwest of Dome Land Wilderness. This area at the south end of the Sierra Nevada is characterized by riparian habitats, blue oak-digger pine, sagebrush, and Joshua tree vegetation.
Monache Meadows Wildlife Area, California (N36º14’ W118º10’), is 250 acres surrounded by the Inyo National Forest. The site provides habitat for golden trout and Sierra Nevada fox. The South Fork Kern wild and scenic river passes through the property, which is accessible by a 40-mile drive on four-wheel drive roads from California Hot Springs through the Sequoia and Inyo National Forests. Forest Route 21S05 over Sherman Pass and Forest Route 21S03 to Blackrock are the approach roads.
Mountain Home Demonstration State Forest, California (N36º14’ W118º41’) is 4,800 acres containing 5,000 of the largest and oldest sequoia trees. It is surrounded by Giant Sequoia National Monument. Located north of Camp Nelson, this area contains the Mountain Home grove of giant sequoias.
Whitaker’s Forest, University of California-Berkeley (N36º42’ W118º56’), adjoins Kings Canyon National Park and Giant Sequoia National Monument and is reached from the Quail Flat intersection. It includes 215 large giant sequoias and mixed conifers.
Private Sites
Kern River Preserve, National Audubon Society, California (N35º40’ W118º18’), is an Important Bird Area at the south edge of the Sierra Nevada with lowland riparian woodland is habitat for yellow-billed cuckoo, summer tanager, willow flycatcher, yellow warbler, and song sparrow. It is located east of Isabella Lake on State Route 178.

Sierra Nevada Forests, Part 4A: Sequoia and the Southern Sierra

Sierra Nevada forests Part 4A: Sequoia and the Southern Sierra

The southern Sierra Nevada includes the dramatic canyons of the Kern River and the tallest peaks culminating in Mount Whitney. This area is dominated by Kings Canyon National Park, Sequoia National Park, Giant Sequoia National Monument, and Sequoia National Forest. Westward-draining streams are part of the Sacramento-San Joaquin freshwater ecoregion, while eastern slopes are part of the Death Valley freshwater ecoregion.

Man and the Biosphere Reserves

Sequoia and Kings Canyon Man and the Biosphere Reserve

Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, California, are a land of 14,000-foot mountains and giant trees. The high alpine meadows of the two parks are part of the Sierra Meadows South Important Bird Area and are habitat for great gray owl, blue grouse, pileated woodpecker, and Vaux’s swift.

Kings Canyon National Park is 461,900 acres in size. The northernmost point is at Glacier Divide (N37º14’ W118º47’), the southernmost is at Triple Divide Peak on the Great Western Divide (N36º36’ W118º32’), the easternmost point is Mount Bradley (N36º44’ W118º20’), and the westernmost point is near the Big Stump Grove (N36º43’ W118º59’). Kings Canyon contains two sections connected by State Route 180, Kings Canyon Highway. The high alpine meadows of the two parks are part of the Sierra Meadows South IBA and are habitat for great gray owl, blue grouse, pileated woodpecker, and Vaux’s swift.

In the General Grant section are groves of giant sequoias. Grant Grove (N36º44’ W118º58’) was one of the first groves purchased for the park in 1916. Trails lead to Grant Tree (N36º45’ W118º58’), the world’s third largest living tree, and Big Stump Basin (N36º43’ W118º59’), a sequoia forest that was logged and is now a second growth forest. Panoramic Point provides an overlook of the Kings River canyons. The area to the south of Generals Highway and in the Redwood Mountain Grove downstream is within the Sequoia-Kings Canyon Wilderness. Redwood Canyon (N36º39’ W118º51’) contains karst topography–springs and Lilburn Cave, the largest in California, with 17 miles of passages. The south boundary of this section is the North Fork Kaweah River (N36º37’ W118º53’).

The Kings Canyon section is dominated by deep glacier-carved canyons in the west and the Sierra Crest, barren alpine ridges, and glacially scoured basins in the east. Kings Canyon on the South Fork Kings River and Tehipite Valley on the Middle Fork Kings River (N36º55’ W118º47’) are two glacially carved canyons in the park. Tehipite Valley is accessible by trail. The eight-mile-long glaciated Kings Canyon includes Cedar Grove Village (N36º47’ W118º40’). The gorge is lined by sheer granite walls rising thousands of feet, with granite formations such as the Sphinx (N36º46’ W118º33’) lining the gorge. Hikes leading out of the gorge include the one to Mist Falls (N36º49’ W118º33’) and Upper Tent Meadow (N36º50’ W118º35’) Roaring River Falls (N36º47’ W118º37’) enters the valley to the east of Cedar Grove (Martin 1994). The Zumwalt Meadow National Recreation Trail (N36º47’ W118º36’) is in the gorge. The Kings Canyon section of the park is all designated as part of the Sequoia-Kings Canyon Wilderness except for the road to Zumwalt Meadow. The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail traverses the eastern alpine regions of the park. The trail enters Kings Canyon National Park from the south at Forester Pass (N36º42’ W118º22’). Within the park the trail follows portions of both the Middle Fork and South Fork Kings River Wild Rivers. The trail leaves Kings Canyon National Park on the South Fork San Joaquin River (N37º14’ W118º50’) and enters the John Muir Wilderness. The Middle Fork Kings River within Kings Canyon National Park is designated as a wild and scenic river from its headwaters at Helen Lake (N37º7’ W118º40’), elevation 11,600’ downstream to the park boundary (N36º53’ W118º48’). The South Fork Kings River is designated as a wild and scenic river from its headwaters in the Upper Basin (N37º1’ W118º27’) downstream to the park boundary (N36º48’ W118º42’). The South Fork San Joaquin River within the park is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its headwaters at Martha Lake (N37º5’ W118º44’) downstream to the park boundary at John Muir Rock (N37º13’ W118º50’).

Sequoia National Park is 404,000 acres. The northernmost point is at Harrison Pass on the Kings-Kern Divide (N36º42’ W118º24’), the westernmost point is on the North Fork Kaweah River at the Pierce Creek confluence (N36º36’ W118º55’), the southernmost point is in the Dillonwood Grove of giant sequoias (N36º18’ W118º42’) in the headwaters of the North Fork Tule River, and the easternmost point is at Army Pass (N36º30’ W118º14’).The major road traversing the park is the Generals Highway, which enters the park at Ash Mountain (N36º29’ W118º50’) in the west and leaves at Lost Grove (N36º39’ W118º50’) in the northwest. Great Western Divide separates the park into east and west sections. East of the Great Western Divide is the North Fork Kern River, the Kern Canyon glacial trench, and the Sierra Crest on the eastern boundary. West is the Kaweah River, deep canyons, giant sequoia groves, and karst areas.

The park contains lower elevation foothills with oak woodlands and chaparral. The main visitor center at Ash Mountain (N36⁰29’ W118⁰50’) is in this habitat. The Crystal Cave National Recreation Trail and the lower reaches of the various forks of the Kaweah River are also in this habitat. Pictographs may be viewed at Hospital Rock. Trails from the foothills lead to Marble Falls and along the Middle Fork Kaweah River. There are more than 200 caves in the park along the Kaweah River and its various forks. Crystal Cave (N36º35’ W118º50’) along Yucca Creek offers tours, and Clough Cave (N36º21’ W118º46’) is at the park boundary on the South Fork Kaweah River. Trails at the South Fork lead to Garfield Grove and South Fork Grove of giant sequoias.

North of Potwisha (N36⁰31’ W118⁰48’), the Generals Highway climbs from the 2,000-foot to the 6,000-foot level at Giant Forest Village (N36º34’ W118º46’), where hiking trails wind through sequoia groves. The Giant Forest area contains 40 miles of trails through sequoia groves and includes the Congress National Recreation Trail and the General Sherman Tree (N36º35’ W118º45’). In summer shuttles link the giant forest museum with parking areas at Lodgepole and Wolverton, and with the Wuksachi Lodge (N36⁰36’ W118⁰45’). In the winter a shorter modified trail system among the giant sequoias is also marked. Crescent Meadow (N36º33’ W118º45’) is known for corn lilies and is the beginning of the High Sierra Trail. Moro Rock (N36º33’ W118º46’) is a granite dome that overlooks sequoia groves. The High Sierra Trail leads 70 miles from Crescent Meadow to Mount Whitney in the park, passing Bearpaw Meadow (N36º34’ W118º37’), Chagoopa Plateau (N36º29’ W118º27’), Kern Canyon (N36º34’ W118º24’), Crabtree Meadow (N36º34’ W118º20’), and ending at Mount Whitney (N36º35’ W118º18’). In the roadless east of the park, the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail traverses the wilderness from the Golden Trout Wilderness boundary (N36º28’ W118º16’) north across the Bighorn Plateau to the Sequoia-Kings Canyon national park boundary at Forester Pass (N36º42’ W118º22’).

The seasonal road to Mineral King (N36º27’ W118º36’) follows the East Fork Kaweah River to a subalpine forested valley. This valley, Mineral King, is the finest example of alpine karst topography in the U.S., with over 30 caves, springs, and sinkholes. Trails lead to Crystal, Eagle, Franklin, and Monarch Lakes.

The North Fork Kern River within the park is part of the national wild and scenic river system from its headwaters at Harrison Pass (N36º42’ W118º24’) downstream to the park boundary (N36º21’ W118º24’). Within the park, the East Fork Kaweah River is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its source on White Chief Peak (N36º24’ W118º35’) to the park boundary (N36º26’ W118º46’), encompassing diverse features including the Great Western Divide, the glaciated Mineral King Valley, tufa deposits, soda springs, a deep granite canyon, and karst topography. The Marble Fork Kaweah River is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its headwaters at Tableland (N36º38’ W118º38’) downstream to Potwisha (N36º31’ W118º48’). The river drops 8,000 feet in 15 miles. At Tokopah Falls (N36º37’ W118º42’), the river drops 1,500’ to the glacially carved Tokopah Valley and the Lodgepole developed area (N36º36’ W118º44’). Downstream at Marble Falls (N36º33’ W118º48’), there is another 1,000-foot drop. The Middle Fork Kaweah River is eligible for the wild and scenic river system from its headwaters at the confluence of Lone Pine and Hamilton Creeks (N36º34’ W118º36’) downstream to Potwisha.  It begins in a U-shaped glaciated valley and then tumbles through a V-shaped slickrock gorge that is the deepest in the Sierra Nevada. The South Fork Kaweah River is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its headwaters on the Hockett Plateau (N36º21’ W118º36’) downstream to the park boundary at Clough Cave.

Sequoia-Kings Canyon Wilderness, California, is 768,000 acres and includes most of the undeveloped areas of the two national parks. The northernmost point is at Glacier Divide in Kings Canyon National Park on the John Muir Wilderness boundary (N37º14’ W118º47’), the southernmost is at Coyote Peaks in Sequoia National Park on the Great Western Divide at the Golden Trout Wilderness boundary (N36º19’ W118º27’), the easternmost point is at Army Pass in Sequoia National Park (N36º30’ W118º14’), and the westernmost point is at Redwood Mountain Grove (N36º41’ W118º55’) in Kings Canyon National Park. Kings Canyon National Park is completely within the wilderness except the road to Zumwalt Meadows and the redwood groves north of Generals Highway. The wilderness includes glaciated Tehipite Valley on the Middle Fork Kings River (N36º55’ W118º47’). Barren alpine ridges and glacially scoured basins are in the east. The Pear Lake Winter Hut (N36º36’ W118º40’), operated by the Sequoia Natural History Association, is available for winter lodging from December to April via a six-mile trail from Wolverine. The High Sierra Trail leads 70 miles from Crescent Meadow to Mount Whitney in the park, passing Bearpaw Meadow (N36º34’ W118º37’), Chagoopa Plateau (N36º29’ W118º27’), Kern Canyon (N36º34’ W118º24’), Crabtree Meadow (N36º34’ W118º20’), and ending at Mount Whitney (N36º35’ W118º18’). The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail traverses the wilderness from the Golden Trout Wilderness boundary (N36º28’ W118º16’) north across the Bighorn Plateau to the Sequoia-Kings Canyon national park boundary at Forester Pass (N36º42’ W118º22’), follows portions of both the Middle Fork and South Fork Kings River Wild Rivers, then leaves Kings Canyon National Park on the South Fork San Joaquin River (N37º14’ W118º50’) and enters the John Muir Wilderness

The headwaters of the South Fork San Joaquin, Middle and South Forks of Kings River, Kern River, and Kaweah River are within the wilderness. The North Fork Kern River within the wilderness is part of the national wild and scenic river system from its headwaters at Harrison Pass (N36º42’ W118º24’) downstream to the wilderness boundary (N36º21’ W118º24’). The Middle Fork Kings River is designated as a wild and scenic river in the wilderness from the headwaters at Helen Lake (N37º7’ W118º40’) downstream to the Monarch Wilderness boundary. The South Fork Kings River is designated as a wild and scenic river in the wilderness from its headwaters at Upper Basin on the Pacific Crest Trail (N37º1’ W118º27’) downstream to Zumwalt Meadows. The Marble Fork Kaweah River is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its headwaters at Tableland (N36º38’ W118º38’) downstream to Potwisha (N36º31’ W118º48’). The river drops 8,000 feet in 15 miles. At Tokopah Falls (N36º37’ W118º42’), the river drops 1,500’ to the glacially carved Tokopah Valley Downstream at Marble Falls (N36º33’ W118º48’), there is another 1,000-foot drop. The Middle Fork Kaweah River is eligible for the wild and scenic river system from its headwaters at the confluence of Lone Pine and Hamilton Creeks (N36º34’ W118º36’) downstream to Potwisha.  It begins in a U-shaped glaciated valley and then tumbles through a V-shaped slickrock gorge that is the deepest in the Sierra Nevada. The South Fork San Joaquin River within the wilderness is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its headwaters at Martha Lake (N37º6’ W118º24’) downstream to the park boundary at John Muir Rock (N37º13’ W118º50’). The wilderness borders the John Muir Wilderness on the north, west, and east, the Golden Trout Wilderness and John Krebs Wilderness on the south, and the Monarch and Jennie Lakes Wildernesses on the west.

John Krebs Wilderness, Sequoia National Park, California, is 40,000 acres and extends from the road to Mineral King south to the South Fork Kaweah River and Clough Cave (N36º21’ W118º46’). It excludes Mineral King, Silver City and the small hydroelectric storage reservoirs of Monarch, Crystal, Franklin, and Eagle Lakes. It includes the Timber Gap area (N36º28’ W118º36’) to the north of Mineral King, the Eden Creek Grove, Homers Nose (N36º23’ W118º44’), and Old Hockett Trail. Elevations range from 3,400 feet in chaparral and blue oak vegetation to 12,400 feet in alpine vegetation. Within the wilderness, the East Fork Kaweah River is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its source on White Chief Peak (N36º24’ W118º35’) to the park boundary (N36º26’ W118º46’), encompassing diverse features including the Great Western Divide, the glaciated Mineral King Valley, tufa deposits, soda springs, a deep granite canyon, and karst topography. The South Fork Kaweah River is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system within the wilderness, which includes the portion downstream of the Hockett Plateau to the park boundary at Clough Cave. In the wilderness the river is a steep granite canyon. The wilderness borders the Sequoia-Kings Canyon Wilderness on the north and the Golden Trout Wilderness on the southeast.

National Historic Landmarks

Walker Pass, Kiavah and Owens Peak Wildernesses and National System of Public Lands, California (N35º40’ W118º2’) is on State Route 178. The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail crosses the landmark, whose boundaries include mountain peaks immediately to the north and south of the actual pass and include lands managed by the BLM and Forest Service. The 5,245-foot pass was crossed by Joseph Walker in 1834, on the return journey of the Bonneville expedition that began in 1830 at Fort Osage, near present-day Kansas City. The expedition went from Fort Osage to the Green River fur trade rendezvous point (present-day Wyoming), then across the Great Salt Lake and Humboldt River to the Sierra Nevada. It crossed into California near Yosemite Valley, then exited through Walker Pass. Later, in 1843, Walker led the first emigrant group into California through Walker Pass, and in 1845, Walker led the John C. Fremont military mapping expedition into California through the pass. These actions by Walker contributed significantly to the exploration and settlement of California. Walker was the most active and long-lived of the explorers and guides in the 19th century. He continued to explore the West until the 1860s (Rudo, 1989).

National Forest System

Giant Sequoia National Monument

Giant Sequoia National Monument, California, is 328,000 acres, surrounding 33 groves of giant sequoias. It is made up of two units, one to the south of Sequoia National Park and one to the north of Sequoia National Park and west of Kings Canyon National Park. The monument includes half of all the known groves. In addition, there are granite monoliths, glacier-carved canyons, limestone caverns, and whitewater rivers. The northwesternmost point of the north unit is at Mill Flat on the Kings River (N36º51’ W119º6’), the northeasternmost point is on the Kings River at the Kings Canyon National Park boundary (N36º48’ W118º42’), and the southernmost point is on the North Fork Kaweah River (N36º37’ W118º54’). On the north unit, the Boole tree (N36º49’ W118º57’) in the Converse Basin is the largest tree on national forest system land, while the nearby Chicago Stump (N36º48’ W118º59’), cut in 1893, may have been the largest tree ever known. Nearby is the accessible Indian Basin Grove (N36º49’ W118º56’). Both are on the Kings Canyon Scenic Byway (State Route 180) north of Grant Grove. The highway climbs 4,000 feet to reach the Grant Grove of sequoias, then descends 2,700 feet into Kings Canyon and passes Boyden Cave and a waterfall. The Windy Gulch Geologic Area (N36º48’ W118º50’) includes Boyden Cave and the Evans Grove of giant sequoias. The portion of Monarch Wilderness south of Kings Canyon (described separately) is in the monument. The Generals Highway passes through the national monument as it runs between Sequoia National Park and Kings Canyon National Park. Off the highway is Hume Lake (N36º47’ W118º54’), now a recreation lake and formerly a mill pond created by a lumber company in 1908. The dam was the first concrete-reinforced multiple arch dam completed in the U.S. Buck Rock Lookout (N36º44’ W118º52’) provides views of Kings Canyon below.

On the south unit, the southernmost grove, Deer Creek (N35º52’ W118º36’), is east of California Hot Springs. The northernmost point is near Upper Grouse Valley (N36º18’ W118º49’), the southernmost point is at Sunday Peak in the Greenhorn Mountains (N35º47’ W118º35’), and the eastern end is at the Forks of the Kern (junction of the North Fork Kern and Little Kern Rivers (N36º8’ W118º26’)). Accessible sequoia groves are the Belknap Complex of Groves (N36º8’ W118º36’) east of Camp Nelson, Long Meadow Grove and the Trail of 100 Giants (N35º59’ W118º36’) on the Western Divide Highway, and Freeman Creek Botanical Area (N36º9’ W118º31’), 4,200 acres centered on the Freeman Creek grove of giant sequoias. It contains the named George H.W. Bush tree. The Needles (N36º7’ W118º29’) is a granite rock formation which overlooks the Kern River canyon. Dome Rock (N36º4’ W118º32’) is another granite monolith along the Western Divide Highway. The eastern area of the monument around Lloyd Meadow (N36º9’ W118º29’) provides views into Kern Canyon, as well as granite formations and giant sequoia groves. Moses Mountain Research Natural Area (N36º17’ W118º40’) is managed for the study of giant sequoias in a natural setting. It extends into the Golden Trout Wilderness to the east of the national monument. South Mountaineer Creek Research Natural Area (N36º12’ W118º36’) is a red fir forest also shared with the Golden Trout Wilderness. Slate Mountain Botanical Area (N36º6’ W118º35’) is 500 acres managed for the Twisselmann’s buckwheat plant.

Kings River Special Areas

Kings River Special Management Area, Sequoia National Monument and Sierra National Forest, California, is 49,000 acres and protects the 8,000-foot-deep Kings Canyon, and extends from its easternmost point at Horseshoe Bend on State Route 180 on the South Fork Kings River (N36º49’ W118º50’) to the confluence with the North Fork Kings River and to the ridges overlooking the canyon. The southernmost portion is south of Sampson Flat (N36º46’ W119º5’), the northwestern portion is on the North Fork Kings River at Rodgers Ridge (N36º53’ W119º7’), and the northeasternmost portion is at Spanish Mountain (N36º55’ W118º55’). There is a wild trout fishery in the Kings River, and the Boole giant sequoia tree (N36º49’ W118º57’) is in the area. The Kings River National Recreation Trail traverses the area.

Sequoia National Forest

Sequoia National Forest, California, is 1.1 million acres including 328,000 acres of the Giant Sequoia National Monument and the Domeland, Golden Trout Jennie Lake, Kiavah, Monarch, and South Sierra Wilderness Areas. The southernmost portions of the Sierra Nevada forests ecoregion is in the forest, which also is in the chaparral ecoregions to the south and west. Kiavah Wilderness is in the Mojave Desert ecoregion. The Kern Plateau is a high-elevation area, while the Upper Kern River above Lake Isabella and the Lower Kern below Lake Isabella are whitewater recreational rivers. National Recreation Trails include Cannell Meadows, Jackass Creek, and Summit. Bald Mountain Botanical Area (N36º1’ W118º15’) is protected for a rare Horkelia species, along with five pines and two fir species. Baker Point Botanical Area (N35º51’ W118º30’) is 780 acres overlooking the Kern River canyon. This granite bedrock peak supports rare plants. Ernest C. Twisselmann Botanical Area (N35º55’ W118º20’) is 860 acres on Sirretta Peak which supports foxtail,  limber, white, Jeffrey, and lodgepole pine at southern limits of the Sierra Nevada.Packsaddle Cave Geological Area (N35º56’ W118º28’) is a limestone cave in the Kern River watershed north of Kernville.

The North Fork Kern Wild and Scenic River flows through the forest in Golden Trout Wilderness and outside the wilderness from Forks of the Kern (N36º8’ W118º26’) to the Tulare-Kern County line (N35º48’ W118º27’). The Kern River in the forest is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system downstream from Isabella Lake for 13 miles between Borel Powerhouse (N35º35’ W118º32’) and Democrat Hot Springs (N35º32’ W118º40’). This section is the only section downstream from the reservoir that maintains flow; the rest is diverted for hydropower uses.

 

Sierra Nevada Forests, Part 3D: Trails and Wilderness Areas of the Yosemite Vicinity

 

National Trails System

Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail

Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail extends 2,600 miles from Canada to Mexico, passing through some of the most scenic areas in California. The Sierra Nevada section provides a tour of wilderness areas.

In the Ansel Adams Wilderness, the trail passes Devils Postpile National Monument (N37º38’ W119º5’), Agnew Meadows in the Inyo National Forest (N37º41’ W119º5’), Island Pass, and then enters Yosemite National Park at Donohue Pass (N37º46’ W119º15’). The trail traverses an extensive area of the eastern Yosemite Wilderness, passes Tioga Road at Tuolumne Meadows (N37º53’ W119º21’), and enters the Hoover Wilderness at Dorothy Lake Pass (N38º11’ W119º35’). In the Hoover Wilderness, the trail passes a small portion of the wilderness and exits at Kennedy Canyon (N38º15’ W119º36’). In the Emigrant Wilderness, the trail follows the eastern boundary and weaves in and out of the Toiyabe National Forest, descending to Sonora Pass on State Route 108 (N38º20’ W119º38’). The trail then continues north in the Carson-Iceberg Wilderness and the Toiyabe National Forest, crossing Ebbetts Pass on State Route 4 (N38º33’ W119º49’). The trail crosses the Mokelumne Wilderness and Toiyabe National Forest on the way to Carson Pass and the State Route 88 crossing (N38º42’ W119º59’) on the Eldorado National Forest.

National Recreation Trails of the Sierra Nevada

Black Point National Recreation Trail (NRT), Sierra NF (N37º14’ W119º16’), is west of Huntington Lake. This 0.6-mile trail to a mountain top is at the edge of the Kaiser Wilderness and offers scenic views of the lake and San Joaquin River canyon.

Columns of the Giants NRT, Stanislaus NF (N38º20’ W119º48’). Unique columnar basalt in the form of pentagonal and hexagonal columns reaches for the sky, located on Route 108 east of Dardanelle at the Pigeon Flat Campground. The 0.25-mile trail goes to the site overlooking the Middle Fork Stanislaus River.

Kings River NRT, Kings River Special Management Area, Sierra NF, California (N36º52’ W119º2’), extends upriver from the Garnet Dike Campground seven miles east of Pine Flat Reservoir. The trail follows the Kings River for three miles, passing waterfalls, rapids and granite formations.

Lewis Creek NRT, Sierra NF, California (N37º26’ W119º38’), is a hiking and mountain biking trail between Oakhurst and the Yosemite National Park boundary leading past two waterfalls, Corlieu and Red Rock Falls. The trailhead is on State Route 41.

Pinecrest Lake NRT, Stanislaus NF, California (N38º12’ W119º59’), is a four-mile trail encircling Pinecrest Lake, created on the South Fork Stanislaus River, on Route 108.

Rancheria Falls NRT, Sierra NF, California (N37º15’ W119º8’) is a one-mile trail east of Huntington Lake ending at a 150-foot waterfall. The trailhead is off of State Route 168.

Shadow of the Giants NRT, Sierra NF, California (N37º26’ W119º35’), is a one-mile trail through the Nelder Grove of giant sequoias four miles south of Yosemite National Park.

Whitney Portal NRT, Inyo NF, California (N36º36’ W118º12’), extends four miles from Mount Whitney trailhead downhill to Lone Pine Campground, and is noted for granite boulders and views of the Alabama Hills. Access is on Whitney Portal Road four miles west of US Route 395 at Lone Pine.

National Wild and Scenic River System

Kings River, Giant Sequoia National Monument and Sierra National Forests, California, is a designated as a wild and scenic river from the confluence of the Middle and North Fork (N36º50’ W118º53’) downstream to Garlic Falls (N36º52’ W118º57’), a distance of five miles. This is a whitewater river through the second deepest canyon in North America.

Merced River, National System of Public Lands, Sierra and Stanislaus National Forests, and Yosemite National Park, California is designated a wild river from its source on Mount Lyell to Briceburg (N37º36’ W119º58’), including glacially carved Yosemite Valley, one of the world’s most iconic landscapes. The mid-elevation meadow-riparian complex in Yosemite Valley is the largest in the Sierra Nevada. The river drops 2,000 feet over 14 miles upstream from Yosemite Valley. At the east end of Yosemite Valley is the Giant Staircase (N37º44’ W119º33’), made up of Nevada and Vernal Fall, the finest example of stair-step river morphology. Above Nevada Fall, Merced Canyon (Little Yosemite Valley) is a textbook glacially carved canyon (N37º44’ W119º30’).  There are four source streams that are included in the designation. Red Peak Fork (N37º40’ W119º23’), Merced Peak Fork (N37º39’ W119º23’), and Triple Peak Fork (N37º38’ W119º20’) confluence from the south, and Lyell Fork (N37º44’ W119º16’) enters from the east (National Park Service 2014a). From its source to El Portal (N37º40’ W119º49’)(the Yosemite National Park portion), the river flows through a conifer forest. Between El Portal and Briceburg, the vegetation is pine-oak savannah and chaparral. The section from Briceburg to Lake McClure (N37º36’ W120º6’) is considered eligible for the wild and scenic river system. The river in the Sierra and Stanislaus National Forests contains five outstandingly remarkable values (USDA, FS 2015):

  • Geology: contact between metasedimentary and granitic rock
  • Vegetation: four state-listed rare and endangered plants
  • Wildlife: threatened salamander habitat
  • Recreation: white water rafting, camping and hiking
  • Cultural: old Yosemite railroad and mining sites

South Fork Merced River, Sierra National Forest and Yosemite National Park, California, is a designated wild and scenic river from its source at Chain Lakes (N37º34’ W119º24’) for 40 miles downstream to its confluence with the Merced River (N37º39’ W119º53’). It begins in Yosemite National Forest, flows along the park boundary with the Sierra National Forest (N37º32’ W119º31’), re-enters the park (N37º32’ W119º35’) and flows through Wawona, then re-enters Sierra National Forest (N37º35’ W119º42’) for its last 18 miles to the confluence with the Merced. From Wawona downstream, the South Fork provides habitat for the Sierra sweetbay (Myrica hartwegii) (National Park Service 2014a). The river contains five outstandingly remarkable values (USDA forest service 2015).

  • Recreation: fishing, nature study, white water rafting
  • Geology: oldest gold-bearing rocks
  • Wildlife: riparian dependent wildlife and rare limestone salamander
  • Fisheries: habitat for native fish
  • Botany: four state-listed rare plants

Owens River Headwaters, Owens River Headwaters Wilderness and Inyo National Forest, California, wild and scenic river designation includes a small section of the Owens River downstream from Big Spring (N37º45’ W118º56’), Glass Creek from its source (N37º44’ W119º5’) to its confluence with Deadman Creek (N37º45’ W118º59’), and Deadman Creek from its source on San Joaquin Mountain (N37º43’ W119º6’) to Big Spring. There are 19 miles in the national wild and scenic river system.

Tuolumne River, Stanislaus National Forest and Yosemite National Park, California, is one of the most challenging river runs in California, 83 miles of which are designated as a wild and scenic river. The Stanislaus portion extends from the boundary with Yosemite National Park at River Mile 111 (N37º54’ W119º52’) downstream 30 miles to the confluence with the North Fork Tuolumne River (N37º53’ W120º16’). This is the section used for river runs (USDA Forest Service 1988) and also contains Preston Falls Trail (N37º53’ W119º55’). The Yosemite National Park designation contains two sections of the Tuolumne River, as well as Dana Fork and Lyell Fork upstream of Tuolumne Meadows. The Tuolumne River is designated from Tuolumne Meadows (N37º45’ W119º21’) 23 miles downstream to the upper end of Hetch Hetchy Reservoir (N37º55’ W119º39’). This section contains the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne River, a series of cascades, granite escarpments, and hanging valleys. An additional six miles are designated from O’Shaughnessy Dam (N37º57’ W119º47’) downstream to the Stanislaus National Forest boundary at River Mile 111. This segment contains Poopenaut Valley (N37º56’ W119º49’), which contains rare wet meadows and wetland habitats at lower elevations than is typical of the Sierra Nevada.  Dana Fork is designated from its headwaters near Mount Gibbs (N37º53’ W119º13’) seven miles downstream to Tuolumne Meadows and Lyell Fork is designated from its headwaters near Donohue Pass (N37º45’ W119º16’) 11 miles downstream to Tuolumne Meadows. The meadows at Tuolumne, Dana Fork and Lyell Fork are one of the largest complex of subalpine meadows in the Sierra Nevada. The Parsons Memorial Lodge National Historic Landmark (described separately) is within the wild and scenic rivers boundary at Tuolumne Meadows (National Park Service 2014b).

National Wilderness Preservation System

The areas that make up the National Wilderness Preservation System include some of the oldest and largest areas in the wilderness system. Yosemite Wilderness is described under World Heritage Sites. The John Krebs Wilderness and Sequoia-Kings Canyon Wilderness areas are described under Man and the Biosphere Reserves.

Ansel Adams Wilderness, Inyo and Sierra National Forests and Devils Postpile National Monument, California, is 231,600 acres. The north end is in Lee Vining Canyon south of Tioga Pass Road (N37º56’ W119º12’), the southeast end is near Mono Hot Springs (N37º19’ W119º2’), the southwest end is at Hells Half Acre on the San Joaquin River (N37º24’ W119º16’), the west end is at Chiquito Lake (N37º32’ W119º26’), and the east end is at Mammoth Pass (N37º37’ W119º2’). The Minarets (N37º40’ W119º11’) are along a 12,000-foot ridge which is considered the most spectacular of the Sierra Nevada peaks. Other places in the wilderness include Bloody Canyon (N37º52’ W119º11’), Thousand Island Lake (N37º43’ W119º11’), Granite Stairway (N37º36’ W119º8’), Balloon Dome (N37º28’ W119º14’), Devils Table (N37º20’ W119º2’), Arch Rock (N37º27’ W119º4’), Heitz Meadow  (N37º27’ W119º9’), Junction Butte (N37º32’ W119º12’), Detachment Meadow (N37º36’ W119º16’), Madera Peak (N37º 32’ W119º22’), Sadler Peak (N37º 38’ W119º16’), and Red Top Mountain (N37º38’ W119º8’). Dana Plateau (N37º55’ W119º13’) in the wilderness is considered eligible for national natural landmark status.

In the Ansel Adams Wilderness, the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail passes Devils Postpile National Monument (N37º38’ W119º5’), Agnew Meadows in the Inyo National Forest (N37º41’ W119º5’), Island Pass, and then enters Yosemite National Park at Donohue Pass (N37º46’ W119º15’). Crater Lake Meadow Geological Area (N37º24’ W119º9’), is partially in the Ansel Adams Wilderness. The San Joaquin River in the wilderness is eligible for the wild and scenic river system from Mammoth Pool Reservoir (N37º23’ W119º16) 14 miles upstream to the confluence of the Middle and North Fork (N37º32’ W119º11’). The river flows through a 2,000-foot-deep gorge, includes waterfalls, and passes granite domes. The North Fork San Joaquin River in the wilderness is eligible for the wild and scenic river system from its headwaters at Twin Lakes (N37º42’ W119º14’) downstream 14 miles to its confluence with the San Joaquin River; it passes through a deep, narrow canyon for much of its length. The Middle Fork San Joaquin River is eligible for the wild and scenic rivers system from its headwaters near Thousand Island Lake (N37º43’ W119º11’) for 22 miles downstream to its confluence with the San Joaquin River (N37º32’ W119º11’). The river passes out of the wilderness to enter the Inyo National Forest and Devils Postpile National Monument at Rainbow Falls (N37º36’ W119º5’). The Middle Fork San Joaquin is noted for its spectacular domes and evidence of volcanic activity. In the northern part of the wilderness west of June Lake Loop, Waugh (Rush Meadows) Reservoir (N37º45’ W119º11’) and Gem Reservoir (N37º45’ W119º9’) are within the wilderness. These are part of the Rush Creek Hydroelectric Project of Southern California Edison.

Carson-Iceberg Wilderness, Stanislaus and Toiyabe National Forests, California, is 161,000 acres, with 12 peaks above 10,000 feet and 200 miles of trails, located between State Routes 4 and 108. Volcanic ridges and peaks including The Iceberg (N38º25’ W119º45’) and The Dardanelles (N38º24’ W119º45’), are found in the wilderness.  On the southeast boundary, Sonora Peak reaches 11,459 feet. The Iceberg is visible from the end of Clarks Fork Road. Deep canyons drain to the Stanislaus and Carson Rivers. The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail traverses the wilderness from the East Fork Carson River headwaters on Sonora Peak (N38º22’ W119º38’) to north of Wolf Creek Pass (N38º30’ W119º46’), passing Boulder Peak along the way. The East Fork Carson River is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system for 27 miles from its source (N38º22’ W119º38’) to the Silver King Valley (N38º33’ W119º38’). Carson Falls is included in this river reach. Other sites showing the extent of the wilderness are Wolf Creek Lake in the north (N38º36’ W119º40’), Clark Fork Meadow and St. Marys Pass (N38º21’ W119º39’) in the south, Donnell Lake and the Middle Fork Stanislaus River (N38º20’ W119º58’) in the southwest, Rose Meadow near Lake Alpine (N38º28’ W120º0’) in the west, Antelope Peak (N38º28’ W119º33’) in the east, and the Elephant Rock (N38º27’ W119º58’). Access points from the Stanislaus National Forest include Iceberg Meadow at The Iceberg, Clark Fork Campground (N38º24’ W119º48’), and Tryon Meadow on Highland Lake Road (N38º30’ W119º48’). From the Toiyabe National Forest, Rodriquez Flat (N38º31’ W119º33’) and Wolf Creek Meadows (N38º35’ W119º42’) provide trail access. Silver King Creek (N38º28’ W119º36’) in the Toiyabe section is considered a potential National Natural Landmark.

Dinkey Lakes Wilderness, Sierra National Forest, California, is 30,000 acres to the west and south of the John Muir Wilderness. There are 16 lakes including First Dinkey Lake (N37º10’ W119º4’). The wilderness is noted for mountain meadows amid the white fir, red fir, and Jeffrey pine forests, along with granite outcroppings. The highest point, Three Sisters Peak (N37º8’ W119º4’), reaches 10,600 feet in elevation. The north end is west of Mount Givens (N37º16’ W119º4’) and the south end is at Eagle Peak (N37º5’ W119º1’) west of Courtright Reservoir. Other places in the wilderness are Lakecamp Meadow (N37º14’ W119º4’), Hot Springs Pass (N37º12’ W119º0’), and Helms Meadow (N37º9’ W119º0’).

Emigrant Wilderness, Stanislaus National Forest, California, is 112,700 acres. Characterized by volcanic ridges and peaks in the high Sierra, the area drains into the Stanislaus and Tuolumne Rivers and includes the Walker River-Sonora emigrant trails to California. The scenic glaciated landscape includes 200 miles of trails. The wilderness borders the Hoover Wilderness on the east and Yosemite Wilderness on the south. The southernmost point is near Cherry Lake (N38º2’ W119º55’), the westernmost point is near Hells Mountain (N38º4’ W119º55’), the easternmost point is near Bond Pass (N38º11’ W119º36’), and the northernmost point is near Chipmonk Flat on State Route 108 (N38º19’ W119º41’). The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail follows the eastern boundary (N38º16’ W119º38’) around Leavitt Peak and Leavitt Lake. Kennedy Creek is eligible for the national wild and scenic rivers system from its headwaters (N38º14’ W119º37’) downstream to the wilderness boundary and Middle Fork Stanislaus River (N38º18’ W119º44’). The California National Historic Trail, Walker River-Sonora Route, traverses the wilderness. Sites include Little Emigrant Valley (N38º12’ W119º39’), Hubbs Grave Site (N38º14’ W119º43’), Relief Camp (N38º14’ W119º45’), and Burst Rock (N38º12’ W119º52’).

Hoover Wilderness, Inyo and Toiyabe National Forests and Mono Basin National Forest Scenic Area, California, is a 124,500-acre region of alpine lakes and meadows adjacent to Yosemite NP. It extends from 300-foot Leavitt Falls (N38º19’ W119º34’) in the north to the Twenty Lakes Basin (N37º59’ W119º18’) in the south. The Pacific Crest Trail crosses a small portion of the wilderness from Dorothy Lake Pass (N38º11’ W119º35’) to Kennedy Canyon (N38º15’ W119º36’). Sites in the Toiyabe portion include Kennedy Canyon and Tower Canyon in the West Walker River drainage, Virginia Lakes,Green Creek, Barney Lake, Peeler Lake, and Little Slide Canyon. Sites in the Inyo portion include Lundy Canyon, Tioga Peak, and Twenty Lakes Basin. Mono Dome is in the Mono Lakes National Scenic Area portion. Rainbow Meadows Research Natural Area (N38º9’ W119º31’) is a 1,500-acre area of subalpine white bark pine and pristine alpine habitats in the West Walker River headwaters near Hawksbeak Peak, adjoining Yosemite NP. Harvey Monroe Hall Research Natural Area (N37º58’ W119º18’) is 3,900 acres of alpine meadow and subalpine forest north of Tioga Pass on the Yosemite National Park boundary. The West Walker River is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its headwaters (N38º10’ W119º33’) downstream to Leavitt Meadows (N38º18’ W119º33’) in the wilderness. The Walker River-Sonora Route of the California National Historic Trail crosses the wilderness from Leavitt Meadow (N38º20’ W119º33’) to Fremont Lake (N38º15’ W119º33’).

Kaiser Wilderness, Sierra National Forest, California, is 22,000 acres of red fir and Jeffrey pine forests with 18 small lakes, located to the west of Huntington Lake. A limestone area within the wilderness is home to caves and unique plant species such as moonwort ferns, which grow at meadow edges (Sierra NF Assessment). Places in the wilderness include Black Point (N37º14’ W119º16’), College Rock (N37º16’ W119º10’), Kaiser Peak Meadow (N37º19’ W119º7’), and Horsethief Lakes (N37º17’ W119º16’). Home Camp Creek proposed Research Natural Area (N37º15’ W119º15’) is 1,200 acres northwest of Huntington Lake and contains late seral white fir populations.

Monarch Wilderness, Sequoia National Forest, Giant Sequoia National Monument and Sierra National Forest, California, is 44,900 acres, with elevations ranging from 2,000 feet on the South Fork Kings River to 11,000 feet at Hogback Peak. It is divided into two sections by the Kings River and State Route 180. This area includes rugged mountains and multicolored rock formations to the west of Kings Canyon NP that are vegetated with chaparral and pine. In the south section are Agnew Grove (N36º47’ W118º47’), Yucca Point (N36º50’ W118º52’), and Windy Cliffs (N36º49’ W118º49’), along with trail access. The Kanawyer Trail provides views into Kings Canyon. The northern section is accessed by Deer Cove Trail which winds to Grizzly Lakes and Wildman Meadow (N36º50’ W118º42’). Other sites in the northern section are Mount Harrington (N36º52’ W118º44’), Little Tehipite Valley (N36º53’ W118º48’), and Deer Canyon (N36º52’ W118º53’). The Middle Fork Kings River Wild River bisects the wilderness from the confluence with the South Fork (N36º50’ W118º53’) upstream to the Kings Canyon National Park boundary (N36º53’ W118º48’). The South Fork Kings River Wild and Scenic River forms the southern border, then bisects the wilderness from the confluence with the Middle Fork upstream to Kings Canyon National Park boundary (N36º48’ W118º42’). The wilderness borders the John Muir wilderness on the northwest and the Sequoia-Kings Canyon Wilderness on the north and east. The Windy Gulch Geologic Area (N36º48’ W118º50’) is partially in the wilderness and partially in Sequoia National Monument. It includes Boyden Cave and the Evans Grove of giant sequoias.

John Krebs Wilderness, Sequoia National Park, California, is 40,000 acres and extends from the road to Mineral King south to the South Fork Kaweah River and Clough Cave (N36º21’ W118º46’). Highlights of the John Krebs Wilderness were described under the Man and the Biosphere Reserves entry.

John Muir Wilderness, Inyo and Sierra National Forests and National System of Public Lands, California, is a 652,000-acre area extending for 100 miles north to south and including 590 miles of trails.  It is known for snowcapped mountains with glacially carved lakes. The northernmost point is near Mammoth Lakes and Long Valley (N37º37’ W118º54’), the northwesternmost point is on the Middle Fork San Joaquin River in the Sierra National Forest (N37º33’ W119º8’), the southwestern end is at Geraldine Lakes (N36º55’ W118º53’), the southernmost point is near Cottonwood Pass (N36º28’ W118º13’), and the southeasternmost point is at Carroll Creek near Wononga Peak (N36º30’ W118º7’). The wilderness borders the Golden Trout Wilderness on the south, the Ansel Adams Wilderness on the north, and Dinkey Lakes Wilderness on the northwest. It is to the east, north, and northwest of the Sequoia-Kings Canyon Wilderness.

Much of the wilderness is in a narrow one- to five-mile band along the eastern boundary of Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks from Cottonwood Pass to Lake Sabrina (N37º13’ W118º37’); north of this point the wilderness surrounds the northern portion of Kings Canyon National Park. Trailheads in the narrow band on the eastern side of the Sierra Crest include Whitney Portal (N36º35’ W118º14’), Onion Valley (N36º46’ W118º20’), Oak Creek (N36º51’ W118º18’), Big Pine Creek (N37º7’ W118º27’), South Lake (N37º10’ W118º34’), Lake Sabrina, Pine Creek (N37º22’ W118º41’), Rock Creek Canyon (N37º27’ W118º44’), McGee Creek (N37º33’ W118º48’), Mammoth Lakes Basin (N37º36’ W119º0’), and Convict Lake (N37º35’ W118º52’). Whitney Portal is the beginning of the 11-mile hike to Mount Whitney, the highest peak in the lower 48 states. At the head of Big Pine Canyon, a dramatic glacier-carved canyon in the wilderness, is Palisades Glacier (N37º6’ W118º30’), the southernmost in the US. The California Bighorn Sheep Zoological area is 40,000 acres in two sections to the north and south of Onion Valley. Features of the zoological area include Mount Williamson (N36º39’ W118º19’) and Lookout Point (N36º54’ W118º19’). Other features of the wilderness are small partial sections of National System of Public Lands land to the north and south of Lone Pine Creek (N36º34’ W118º11’ and N36º40’ W118º14’), Lime Canyon (N36º46’ W118º18’), Spook Canyon (N36º W118º), Armstrong Canyon (N36º57’ W118º21’), Little Pine Creek (N37º7’ W118º22’), Table Mountain (N37º14’ W118º34’), and Wheeler Crest (N37º31’ W118º41’). Longley Reservoir (N37º17’ W118º40’), is on McGee Creek in the John Muir Wilderness. It is a storage reservoir for the Bishop Creek Hydroelectric System.

In the Sierra National Forest portions of the wilderness, features include Volcanic Cone (N36º59’ W118º50’), North Fork Kings River (N37º5’ W118º55’), Long Meadow (N37º8’ W118º55;), Rodeo Meadow (N37º11’ W119º1’), Rockhouse Meadow (N37º14’ W119º4’), White Bark Vista (N37º17’ W119º5’), and Mono Hot Springs (N37º19’ W119º1’). Florence Lake (N37º16’ W118º58’), a hydroelectric facility, is an exclusion area. The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail traverses the wilderness from the Kings Canyon National Park boundary on the South Fork San Joaquin River (N37º14’ W118º50’), north to Seldon Pass, Silver Pass, and Tully Hole, exiting at Crater Meadow (N37º35’ W119º3’). The wilderness largely surrounds the Sequoia-Kings Canyon Wilderness and borders the Monarch and Golden Trout wildernesses on the south. Courtright Intrusive Contact Zone Geological Area (N37º5’ W118º57’) is east of Courtright Dam in the Sierra National Forest on the John Muir Wilderness boundary. The South Fork San Joaquin River within the wilderness is considered eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from the Kings Canyon National Park boundary (N37º13’ W118º50’) downstream for seven miles to Florence Lake hydroelectric project (N37º15’ W118º57’). This segment of the river is known for its granite domes and walls.

Owens River Headwaters Wilderness, Inyo National Forest, is 14,700 acres between Mammoth Lakes and June Lake, home to an old-growth red fir forest. Places in the wilderness include 9,700-foot Mount Downs (N37º47’ W119º3’), Glass Creek Meadows (N37º44’ W119º3’), Yost Lake (N37º45’ W119º6’), and Two Teats (N37º43’ W119º6’). Its western boundary is the Ansel Adams Wilderness. Glass Creek (N37º44’ W119º4’) and Deadman Creek (N37º43’ W119º4’) in the wilderness are part of the Owens River Headwaters National Wild and Scenic River designation.

Yosemite Wilderness, Yosemite National Park, California, is 704,600 acres, including 94 percent of the national park. Highlights of the Yosemite Wilderness were posted under the Yosemite World Heritage Site entry.

Other Federal Sites

Alabama Hills Recreation Area, National System of Public Lands, California (N37º37’ W118º8’) is 30,000 acres west of Lone Pine off of US Route 395. The site is off the road to Whitney Portal. Over 400 movies were filmed in the area. A trail to Mobius Arch is also featured.

State and Local Sites

Calaveras Big Trees State Park, California, is 6,500 acres off of State Route 4 near Arnold.  The park includes the North Grove (N39º17’ W120º18’) and South Grove (N39º15’ W120º15’) of giant sequoias. The South Grove contains more than 1,000 large trees. Trails also lead to the Stanislaus River canyon and volcanic formations.

Crowley Lake, City of Los Angeles (N37º36’ W118º44’), is on the Owens River off of U.S. Route 395 between Mammoth Lakes and Bishop. Recreational facilities are privately operated.

Kinsman Flat Wildlife Area, California (N37º12’ W119º21’) is 512 acres of oak-pine forest overlooking the gorge of the San Joaquin River. It is surrounded by Sierra National Forest lands and is on Mammoth Pool Road.

The Valentine Eastern Sierra Reserve, Sierra Nevada Aquatic Research Laboratory, of the UC Natural Reserve System is located on Convict Creek (N37º37’ W118º50’) in the Long Valley Caldera.

Valentine Eastern Sierra Reserve, Valentine Camp (N37º38’ W119º0’), University of California Natural Reserve System, is located on the south side of Mammoth Lakes. Public walks are offered in the summer.

Private Sites

California Caverns, Sierra Nevada Recreation Corporation, California (N38º12’ W120º31’) is on Cave City Road in Mountain Ranch. It is a state historic landmark mentioned in John Muir’s 1894 book, the Mountains of California.

Mercer Caverns, California (N38º9’ W120º29’) is a commercial cave on Sheep Ranch Road in Murphys (State Route 4). Formations include dogtooth spar crystals, helictites, flowstone, and rootsicles.

 

Sierra Nevada forests, Part 3C: Reservoirs of Yosemite Region

The review of the central Sierra Nevada ecoregion surrounding Yosemite National Park includes a paragraph on the other national park system unit and then continues with the reservoir systems, mostly used for hydroelectricity. The review continues next month with the national trail system and wilderness areas.

National Park System

Yosemite National Park, California, is described under World Heritage Sites. Devils Postpile National Monument, California (N37º38’ W119º5’), is known for its columnar basalt columns. It also contains 100-foot Rainbow Falls on the Middle Fork San Joaquin River. The Middle Fork San Joaquin River is eligible for the wild and scenic rivers system in the monument. Most of the monument outside of the Devils Postpile area is part of the Ansel Adams Wilderness, described separately. The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail traverses the monument.

Reservoirs and Hydroelectric Power Projects

This section includes reservoirs federally authorized (hydroelectric projects), reservoirs located on federal lands, and reservoirs constructed by federal agencies. Because of the large number of hydroelectric developments in the Sierra Nevada, reservoirs are listed by river basin.

Kings River

Balch Afterbay, Pacific Gas & Electric, Sierra National Forest (N36º55’ W119º6’) receives water from Black Rock Reservoir (Balch Diversion Dam). Water from Balch Afterbay enters a tunnel which exits at Kings River Powerhouse on Pine Flat Lake (N36º55’ W119º10’).

Black Rock Reservoir (Balch Diversion Dam), Pacific Gas & Electric Company, California (N36º55’ W119º1’), is on the North Fork Kings River in the Sierra National Forest and receives water from the Haas Powerhouse. Water from Wishon Reservoir is diverted downstream into the Haas Tunnel, which transports water to the Haas Powerhouse above Black Rock Reservoir. Water from Black Rock Reservoir enters another tunnel which exits at the Balch Powerhouse on Balch Afterbay.

Courtright Reservoir, Pacific Gas & Electric Company, California (N37º5’ W118º59’), is on Helms Creek, a tributary of the North Fork Kings River. Campgrounds are operated by the Sierra National Forest. John Muir Wilderness borders the reservoir on the east and Dinkey Lakes Wilderness borders it on the north. Courtright is the upper storage reservoir for the Helms Pumped Storage Project.

Wishon Reservoir, Pacific Gas & Electric Company, California (N37º0’ W118º58’) is on the North Fork Kings River. Campgrounds are operated by the Sierra National Forest. John Muir Wilderness borders the reservoir on the east. At the upper end of Wishon is the Helms Powerhoure, capable of 1,212 MW of generation. The powerhouse is in a chamber 1,000 feet underground carved out of granite. Water from Wishon Reservoir is diverted to the Haas Powerhouse above Black Rock Reservoir.

Mono Basin

Rush Creek Hydroelectric Project of Southern California Edison consists of three reservoirs and a powerhouse on the June Lake Loop (State Route 168) within Inyo National Forest and Ansel Adams Wilderness. Waugh (Rush Meadows) Reservoir (N37º45’ W119º11’) and Gem Reservoir (N37º45’ W119º9’) are storage reservoirs within the wilderness, while Agnew Reservoir (N37º45’ W119º8’) feeds the penstock and powerhouse outside of the wilderness (Diamond and Hicks, 1988). Downstream of the powerhouse, Grant Lake, City of Los Angeles (N37º51’ W119º7’), diverts water to the Owens River watershed for eventual diversion to the Los Angeles Aqueduct.

Lee Vining Creek  Project of Southern California Edison consists of three reservoirs and a powerhouse along Tioga Pass Road (State Route 120) in Inyo National Forest. Saddlebag Reservoir (N37º58’ W119º17’) and Tioga Reservoir (N37º55’ W119º15’) serve as storage for Ellery (Rhinedollar) Reservoir (N37º56’ W119º14’), where water is diverted to a penstock and power is generated at Poole Powerhouse (N37º57’ W119º13’).

Lundy Reservoir, Southern California Edison (N38º2’ W119º14’) is on Mill Creek in the northern edge of Inyo National Forest. Hoover Wilderness borders the reservoir.

Owens River

The Bishop Creek Hydroelectric System of Southern California Edison is within John Muir Wilderness, Inyo National Forest, and the National System of Public Lands, as well as private and City of Los Angeles lands. It consists of reservoirs, diversion dams, and powerhouses, which have their own dams and intakes. On the South Fork Bishop Creek, South Reservoir (N37º10’ W118º34’) provides water storage. The storage is supplemented by water from Bluff Reservoir (N37º11’ W118º33’), which is on Green Creek, a tributary to South Fork Bishop Creek. Water is released from South Reservoir, passes a Weir Lake, then is diverted at the South Fork Diversion Dam (N37º14’ W118º34’) to Intake 2 Reservoir (N37º15’ W118º35’) on the Middle Fork Bishop Creek. On the Middle Fork Bishop Creek, water is also released from Sabrina Reservoir (N37º13’ W118º37’) to Intake 2 Reservoir. Intake 2 Reservoir diverts water to the Second Powerhouse (N37º16’ W118º34’).

Water is also diverted to the Second Powerhouse from storage in Longley Reservoir (N37º17’ W118º40’) on McGee Creek. Downstream from Longley Reservoir, McGee Creek Diversion Dam (N37º17’ W118º38’), Birch Creek Diversion Dam (N37º17’ W118º37’), and East Fork Birch Creek Diversion Dam (N37º16’ W118º36’) also divert water to the 2nd Powerhouse. Below the second powerhouse, another diversion dam sends water to the 3rd Powerhouse (N37º18’ W118º32’), and in turn another diversion sends water to the 4th Powerhouse (N37º19’ W118º30’), then to the 5th Powerhouse (N37º20’ W118º29’) and finally to the 6th Powerhouse (N37º21’ W118º28’) just west of the city of Bishop (Taylor, 1994).

Bluff Reservoir, Southern California Edison (N37º11’ W118º33’), is on Green Creek, a tributary to South Fork Bishop Creek, in the Inyo National Forest. Water is diverted from Green Creek to South Reservoir for hydroelectric storage as part of the Bishop Creek Hydroelectric System.

Longley Reservoir, Southern California Edison (N37º17’ W118º40’), is on McGee Creek in the John Muir Wilderness. It is a storage reservoir for the Bishop Creek Hydroelectric System.

Sabrina Reservoir, Southern California Edison (N37º13’ W118º37’), is on Middle Fork Bishop Creek in the Inyo National Forest. It borders the John Muir Wilderness.

South Reservoir (Hillside Reservoir), Southern California Edison (N37º10’ W118º34’), is on South Fork Bishop Creek in the Inyo National Forest and is used as a storage reservoir for the Bishop Creek Hydroelectric System.

 

 San Joaquin River

The Big Creek Hydroelectric Development of Southern California Edison is accessed from State Route 168 and consists of multiple reservoirs and tunnels in the Sierra National Forest. The complex system is on the South Fork San Joaquin River, San Joaquin River, and Big Creek, all of which are near SR 168. The uppermost reservoirs are on the South Fork San Joaquin River and tributaries. Florence Lake (N37º16’ W118º58’) is on the South Fork San Joaquin River. Its water is supplemented by a diversion dam on Hooper Creek (N37º18’ W118º57’). Water from Florence Lake is diverted into the Ward Tunnel. Water from Chinquapin (N37º18’ W119º1’), Camp 62 (N37º18’ W119º2’), and Bolsillo (N37º19’ W119º2’) Creeks is also diverted to the Ward Tunnel. Lake Thomas A. Edison (N37º23’ W118º59’)) receives water from Mono Creek and Warm Creek. The Mono Creek Diversion Dam (N37º21’ W119º0’) below Lake Thomas A. Edison and the Bear Creek Diversion Dam (N37º20’ W118º59’) divert water to the Mono-Bear Siphon, which also feeds the Ward Tunnel. Ward Tunnel passes the Portal Forebay (N37º19’ W119º4’), where it captures water from Camp 61 Creek, then exits the tunnel through Portal powerhouse at Huntington Lake (N37º14’ W119º12’).

Water from Huntington Lake (Big Creek Dam 3 Reservoir) may be diverted through three pathways. Tunnel 1 leads to a powerhouse above Big Creek Dam 4 Reservoir (N37º12’ W119º14’). Tunnel 7 delivers water to North Fork Stevenson Creek, a tributary of Shaver Lake, or as is usually the case, Tunnel 7 delivers water to Balsam Meadows Forebay (N37º10’ W119º15’). Tunnel 7 also receives diverted water from Pittman Creek (N37º12’ W119º13’). If sent to Balsam Meadows Forebay, the water passes through the Eastwood Powerhouse on Shaver Lake (N37º8’ W119º7’). Shaver Lake is operated as a pumped storage facility with Balsam Meadows Forebay, which is not on national forest lands.

Water from Shaver Lake is diverted through Tunnel 5 to a powerhouse on Big Creek Dam 5 reservoir (N37º12’ W119º18’). Big Creek Dam 5 reservoir also receives water via Tunnel 2 from Big Creek Dam 4 Reservoir. Water in Tunnel 2 is supplemented by water from Balsam Creek (N37º11’ W119º16’) and Ely Creek (N37º11’ W119º17’).

On the San Joaquin River is Mammoth Pool Reservoir (N37º20’ W119º19’). Water from Mammoth Pool is diverted to a powerhouse on Big Creek Dam 6 (N37º12’ W119º20’), which is on the San Joaquin River. Dam 6 also receives water from Big Creek Dam 5 reservoir. The powerhouse on Dam 6 also receives water diverted from Rock Creek (N37º16’ W119º20’) and Ross Creek (N37º14’ W119º21’).

Below Big Creek Dam 6, water is diverted through Tunnel 3 to Redinger Lake (N37º9’ W119º27’). Water from Redinger Reservoir is diverted to a powerhouse on the upper end of Kerckhoff Reservoir (N37º8’ W119º31’), which is operated by Pacific Gas & Electric. Kerckoff Powerhouse (N37º6’ W119º33’) is just above Millerton Lake in the California interior chaparral and woodlands ecoregion. The major dams of the Big Creek hydroelectric project are listed below.

Balsam Meadow Forebay, Southern California Edison (N37º10’ W119º15’) is on West Fork Balsam Creek, a tributary of the San Joaquin River. It is a pumped storage reservoir operated in conjunction with Shaver Lake. It receives water from Huntington Lake.

Bear Creek Diversion Dam, Southern California Edison (N37º20’ W118º58’), is on Bear Creek in the Sierra National Forest, a tributary of the South Fork San Joaquin River. Water is diverted via tunnel to Huntington Lake, where power is generated.

Big Creek Dam 4, Southern California Edison (N37º12’ W119º14’), has a powerhouse that receives water from Huntington Lake for power generation. It is on Sierra National Forest land.

Big Creek Dam 5, Southern California Edison (N37º12’ W119º18’) receives water via tunnels from Big Creek Dam 4 and from Shaver Lake. It is on Sierra National Forest land.

Big Creek Dam 6, Southern California Edison (N37º12’ W119º20’), is on the San Joaquin River and receives water via tunnels from Big Creek Dam 5 and from Mammoth Pool Reservoir. It is on Sierra National Forest land.

Lake Thomas A. Edison (Vermillion Valley Dam), Southern California Edison (N37º23’ W118º59’), is on Mono Creek, a tributary to the South Fork San Joaquin River. It contains private resorts and campgrounds operated by Sierra National Forest. John Muir Wilderness borders the reservoir on the east and Ansel Adams Wilderness borders it on the west. Below Vermillion Valley Dam is Mono Creek Diversion Dam (N37º21’ W119º0’). Here, water from Lake Thomas A. Edison is diverted to Portal Powerhouse at the upper end of Huntington Lake. It is accessed from Forest Highway 80 (Kaiser Pass Road) from Huntington Lake.

Florence Lake, Southern California Edison (N37º16’ W118º58’), is on the South Fork San Joaquin River and contains private resorts and campgrounds operated by Sierra National Forest. It is accessed via Forest Highway 80 and Forest Road 7S01 from Huntington Lake. John Muir Wilderness surrounds the reservoir. Water from Florence Lake is diverted to the Portal Powerhouse at the upper end of Huntington Lake.

Huntington Lake (Big Creek Dam 3), Southern California Edison, California (N37º14’ W119º12’), is on Sheep Thief Creek, a tributary to the San Joaquin River, and contains private resorts and winter sports areas with campgrounds operated by Sierra National Forest. It is accessed by State Route 168.

Mammoth Pool Reservoir, Southern California Edison (N37º20’ W119º19’) is on the San Joaquin River in the Sierra National Forest. Ansel Adams Wilderness borders the reservoir on its north end. Water is diverted via tunnels to a powerhouse on Big Creek Dam 6.

Portal Forebay, Southern California Edison (N37º19’ W119º4’), is on Camp 61 Creek, a tributary to the San Joaquin River, and is part of the Big Creek Hydroelectric Development in Sierra National Forest. It is located along Kaiser Pass Road and contributes water to the hydroelectric tunnels leading to Huntington Lake.

Redinger Reservoir, Southern California Edison (N37º9’ W119º27’) is on the San Joaquin River in the Sierra National Forest and receives water from Big Creek Dam No. 6.

Shaver Lake, Southern California Edison, California (N37º8’ W119º17’) is on Stevenson Creek, a tributary of the San Joaquin River. Some Sierra National Forest land borders the reservoir. Access is provided by State Route 168. It receives water from Huntington Lake and pumped storage projects. Water from Shaver Lake is diverted to the Big Creek Hydroelectric facilities. The Museum of the Central Sierra is on reservoir lands donated by Southern California Edison.

Other dams on the San Joaquin River and tributaries include two hydroelectric projects operated by Pacific Gas & Electric, Crane Valley and Kerckhoff. The Crane Valley Hydroelectric Project consists of Chilkoot Lake, Browns Creek Diversion Dam, Bass Lake, San Joaquin Powerhouse No. 3 Forebay, Manzanita Lake, South Fork Willow Creek Diversion Dam, North Fork Willow Creek Diversion Dam, and Corrine Lake. On the North Fork Willow Creek in the Sierra National Forest is the Crane Valley Hydroelectric Development of Pacific Gas and Electric Company. The uppermost reservoir of this development is Chilkoot Lake (N37º25’ W119º29’), which is a storage reservoir. Downstream is the largest of the development, Bass Lake (N37º18’ W119º32’), formed by Crane Valley Dam. Supplemental water is diverted to Bass Lake from the Browns Creek Diversion Dam (N37º18’ W119º30’). From the powerhouse at Bass Lake, the water is diverted through tunnels to a forebay at San Joaquin No. 3 Powerhouse (N37º15’ W119º32’). The outflow from the powerhouse goes into Manzanita Lake (N37º15’ W119º31’). From Manzanita Lake water is diverted to the San Joaquin No. 2 Forebay (N37º12’ W119º30’), where additional power is generated. Water from San Joaquin No. 2 forebay is supplemented through diversion dams on the South Fork Willow Creek and North Fork Willow Creek (both N37º13’ W119º30’). From San Joaquin No. 2, water is sent to the San Joaquin No. 1A Powerhouse, which discharges into Corrine Lake (N37º10’ W119º30’). Water from Corrine Lake is sent through the A.G. Wishon powerhouse to the San Joaquin River (PGE 2006).

Bass Lake, Pacific Gas & Electric, California (N37º18’ W119º32’) is on the North Fork Willow Creek in the Sierra National Forest. N. Fork Willow is a San Joaquin River tributary. Recreation areas are operated by private marinas and the Sierra National Forest.

Kerckhoff Diversion Dam, Pacific Gas & Electric (N37º8’ W119º31’) is on the San Joaquin River in the Sierra National Forest and National System of Public Lands. Kerckoff Powerhouse (N37º6’ W119º33’) is just above Millerton Lake on the National System of Public Lands.

Manzanita Lake, Pacific Gas & Electric (N37º15’ W119º31’) is on the North Fork Willow Creek. Some Sierra National Forest land adjoins the reservoir.

Stanislaus River, Middle and South Forks

Beardsley Reservoir (N38º13’ W120º4’) and Beardsley Afterbay (N38º12’ W120º5’) are on the Middle Fork Stanislaus River in the Stanislaus National Forest and are operated by the Tri-Dam Project, a partnership of the South San Joaquin and Oakdale Irrigation Districts. It is reached from State Route 108 at Strawberry via Forest Highway 52.

Donnell Reservoir (N38º20’ W119º57’) is on the Middle Fork Stanislaus River in the Stanislaus National Forest and is operated by the Tri-Dam Project. It is visible from State Route 108. The reservoir adjoins the Carson-Iceberg Wilderness.

Herring Creek Reservoir (N38º15’ W119º56’) is operated by the Stanislaus National Forest for recreation.

Lyons Reservoir, Pacific Gas & Electric Company (N38º6’ W120º10’), is on the South Fork Stanislaus River in the Stanislaus National Forest off State Route 108. Water is diverted via the Tuolumne Ditch to Sullivan Creek, and power is generated at the Phoenix Reservoir Powerhouse (N38º0’ W120º19’) on Sullivan Creek near Sonora.

Pinecrest (Strawberry) Reservoir, Pacific Gas & Electric Company (N38º12’ W119º59’) is on the South Fork Stanislaus River and accessed from State Route 108 in the Stanislaus National Forest. Water is diverted to the Spring Gap Powerhouse on the Middle Fork Stanislaus River for power generation. This reservoir is part of the Spring Gap-Stanislaus Hydroelectric Project.

Relief Reservoir, Pacific Gas & Electric Company (N38º16’ W119º44’) is on Summit Creek in the Stanislaus National Forest headwaters of the Middle Fork Stanislaus River. It adjoins Emigrant Wilderness and provides supplemental water to downstream reservoirs. Power is generated at the Spring Gap Powerhouse and Stanislaus Powerhouse downstream from Beardsley Lake Afterbay. Relief Reservoir is part of the Spring Gap-Stanislaus Hydroelectric Project.

Sand Bar Dam, Pacific Gas & Electric Company (N38º11’ W120º9’) diverts water from the Middle Fork Stanislaus into a tunnel, which provides water to the Stanislaus Powerhouse (N38º8’ W120º22’) on New Melones Reservoir. Sand Bar Dam is part of the Spring Gap-Stanislaus Hydroelectric Project.

Spring Gap Dam and Powerhouse, Pacific Gas & Electric Company (N38º11’ W120º7’), on the Middle Fork Stanislaus River, receives water from the Pinecrest Lake Diversion on the South Fork Stanislaus River. Spring Gap Dam is part of the Spring Gap-Stanislaus Hydroelectric Project.

Stanislaus River, North Fork

Lake Alpine (N38º29’ W120º0’), Northern California Power Agency, is on Silver Creek adjacent to State Route 4 as well as the Carson-Iceberg Wilderness.

Beaver Creek Diversion Dam, Calaveras County Water District (N38º14’ W120º7’), diverts water to McKays Point Reservoir for power generation.

Hunter’s Reservoir (N38º12’ W122º22’) is operated by the Utica Water and Power Authority. The dam stores water and diverts it into the Utica Canal, which crosses Stanislaus National Forest land on the way to Murphy’s Powerhouse along State Route 4 (N38º9’ W120º26’).

McKay’s Point Diversion Dam, Calaveras County Water District (N38º14’ W120º17’) is the entry point for an 8.5-mile tunnel to Collierville Powerhouse (N38º9’ W120º23’), where power is generated.

New Spicer Meadows Reservoir, Calaveras County Water District (N38º24’ W120º0’) is on Highland Creek and is used for storage. It is adjacent to Carson-Iceberg Wilderness.

North Fork Diversion Dam, Calaveras County Water District (N38º26’ W120º1’) sends water from the North Fork Stanislaus River to New Spicer Meadow Reservoir for storage.

Union Reservoir and Utica Reservoir, Northern California Power Agency (N38º26’ W120º0’) are the uppermost reservoirs on the North Fork Stanislaus River. Both release water to the North Fork Diversion Dam (N38º26’ W120º1’) of Calaveras County Water District.

Tuolumne River

Cherry Lake, City of San Francisco (N38º0’ W119º54’) is in the Stanislaus National Forest to the west of Yosemite National Park. Its water is supplemented with a tunnel from Lake Eleanor to the east. Hydroelectric power from Lake Eleanor and Cherry Lake water is generated at the 169-MW Holm Powerhouse (N37º54’ W119º58’) on Cherry Creek in the Stanislaus National Forest.

Lake Eleanor, City of San Francisco, California (N37º59’ W119º52’) is part of the Hetch Hetchy hydroelectric development completed in 1918 by the City in the northwestern edge of Yosemite National Park. A tunnel to the west transfers some Lake Eleanor water to Cherry Lake for storage. Eleanor Creek is a tributary to Cherry Creek, which in turn is a tributary to the Tuolumne River. Hydroelectric power from Lake Eleanor and Cherry Lake water is generated at the 169-MW Holm Powerhouse (N37º54’ W119º58’) on Cherry Creek in the Stanislaus National Forest.

Hetch Hetchy Reservoir, City of San Francisco (N37º57’ W119º47’) is surrounded by Yosemite National Park and was the subject of one of the epic battles in environmental history. The Sierra Club fought to prevent the dam in the Tuolumne River canyon, but the dam and hydroelectric development by the City of San Francisco was authorized by Congress in 1913. The reservoir was completed in 1923. Hydroelectric power from the reservoir is generated at Kirkwood Powerhouse (N37º53’ W119º57’) on the Tuolumne River in the Stanislaus National Forest and at Moccasin Powerhouse (N37º49’ W120º18’) on the Hetch Hetchy Aqueduct at the junction of State Routes 49 and 120 above Don Pedro Reservoir. The Hetch Hetchy Aqueduct continues to the San Francisco Bay area (Crystal Springs Reservoir) and provides drinking water to the metropolitan area.

 

Sierra Nevada Forests, part 3B: National Forest System

The National Forest system in the Yosemite area includes Stanislaus National Forest to the north, Sierra National Forest to the south, and Inyo National Forest to the east. Toiyabe National Forest to the northeast was previously described in Part 2 in the Tahoe-Eldorado region. Within these forests are special areas including the Mono Basin National Forest Scenic Area, experimental forests, and the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail, administered by the Forest Service. The trail is further described under the National Trails System section. The Stanislaus-Tuolumne Experimental Forest is further described under Man and the Biosphere Reserves. Mono Basin National Forest Scenic Area, California, is described separately under Western Hemisphere Shorebird Reserve Network. Wilderness areas and national recreation trails within the national forest system are also described separately.

Inyo National Forest

Inyo NF, California and Nevada, includes lands in the Sierra Nevada, Great Basin, Great Basin Montane Forest, and Mojave Desert ecoregions. This 1.8-million-acre forest is on the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada, adjoining Yosemite National Park, Kings Canyon National Park, and Sequoia National Park. However, it includes the (eventually) westward-flowing upper Kern River drainage in the Golden Trout Wilderness. The southernmost points in the forest are at Kennedy Meadows (N36º2’ W118º8’) and Tunawee Canyon (N36º3’ W118º0’), while the northernmost point in the Sierra Nevada ecoregion is at Copper Mountain (N38º2’ W119º12’) near Mono Lake. The Ansel Adams Wilderness, Golden Trout Wilderness, Hoover Wilderness, John Muir Wilderness, Owens River Headwaters Wilderness, and South Sierra Wilderness, all described separately, are included in the Sierra Nevada ecoregion portion of Inyo National Forest. The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail passes through wilderness areas of the forest (see description under Hoover, Ansel Adams, John Muir, Golden Trout, and South Sierra Wildernesses) and also through Agnew Meadows (N37º41’ W119º5’) and Kennedy Meadows (N36º3’ W118º8’).

Mammoth Lakes to Kennedy Meadows

Much of the Sierra Nevada portion of the forest south of Mammoth Lakes consists of trailheads for the John Muir Wilderness. Some of these trailheads are Whitney Portal (N36º35’ W118º14’), Onion Valley (N36º46’ W118º20’), Oak Creek (N36º51’ W118º18’), Big Pine Creek (N37º7’ W118º27’), South Lake in Bishop Creek Canyon (N37º10’ W118º34’), Lake Sabrina in Bishop Creek Canyon (N37º22’ W118º41’), Rock Creek Canyon (N37º27’ W118º44’), McGee Creek (N37º33’ W118º48’), Mammoth Lakes Basin (N37º36’ W119º0’), and Convict Lake (N37º35’ W118º52’). Oak Creek and Division Creek (N36º56’ W118º17’) are wildflower viewing areas.

At Whitney Portal trailhead west of Lone Pine, trails lead to Mount Whitney and to Meysan Lakes (N36º33’ W118º15’), an alpine lake basin. At Onion Valley west of Independence, trails lead to Kearsage Pass with views of Sequoia National Park, lakes, and boulder fields. At Big Pine Creek, a nine-mile trail leads to Palisades Glacier, the southernmost glacier in North America, passing waterfalls and lakes. The Glacier Lodge cabin development is at the trailhead (N37º7’ W118º26’).  Bishop Creek Canyon (N37º15’ W118º35’) features an 18-mile drive on State Route 168 climbing 5,000 feet in elevation west of Bishop. This passes a Southern California Edison hydroelectric development. Glacier-carved Rock Creek Canyon includes the Little Lakes Valley (N37º26’ W118º45’), 50 lakes surrounded by 13,000-foot peaks. Rock Creek Canyon provides a dramatic vegetation transition in a short distance, from desert to lodgepole pine and subalpine forests. South of Crowley Lake, McGee Creek (N37º33’ W118º48’) is a wildflower viewing area.

The Bishop Creek Hydroelectric System of Southern California Edison consists of reservoirs, diversion dams, and powerhouses, which have their own dams and intakes. On the South Fork Bishop Creek, South Reservoir (N37º10’ W118º34’) provides water storage. The storage is supplemented by water from Bluff Reservoir (N37º11’ W118º33’), which is on Green Creek, a tributary to South Fork Bishop Creek. Water is released from South Reservoir, passes a Weir Lake, then is diverted at the South Fork Diversion Dam (N37º14’ W118º34’) to Intake 2 Reservoir (N37º15’ W118º35’) on the Middle Fork Bishop Creek. On the Middle Fork Bishop Creek, water is also released from Sabrina Reservoir (N37º13’ W118º37’) to Intake 2 Reservoir. Intake 2 Reservoir diverts water to the Second Powerhouse (N37º16’ W118º34’).

Water is also diverted to the Second Powerhouse from storage in Longley Reservoir (N37º17’ W118º40’) on McGee Creek. Downstream from Longley Reservoir, McGee Creek Diversion Dam (N37º17’ W118º38’), Birch Creek Diversion Dam (N37º17’ W118º37’), and East Fork Birch Creek Diversion Dam (N37º16’ W118º36’) also divert water to the 2nd Powerhouse. Below the second powerhouse, another diversion dam sends water to the 3rd Powerhouse (N37º18’ W118º32’), and in turn another diversion sends water to the 4th Powerhouse (N37º19’ W118º30’). The 5th and 6th Powerhouses are not in Inyo National Forest.

The South Fork Kern River is a wild and scenic river as it passes through the forest in the Golden Trout and South Sierra Wilderness areas, as well as in the Monache Meadows (N36º12’ W118º10’) and Kennedy Meadows (N36º2’ W118º8’) areas outside of the wildernesses.

Mammoth Lakes

The remains of a volcanic eruption 760,000 years ago, Long Valley Caldera is bordered by Mammoth Mountain (N37º38’ W119º2’), Crowley Lake (N37º36’ W118º45’), and Glass Mountain (N37º46’ W118º42’). Glass Mountain is part of the Mono Hills IBA, and is noted for long-eared owl and northern harrier. More recent eruptions were 500 years ago at Obsidian Dome (N37º45’ W119º1’) and South Deadman Dome (N37º43’ W119º1’). Inyo Craters (N37º42’ W119º1’) are two volcanic pits. Near Crowley Lake, glacial moraines are visible at McGee Creek (N37º34’ W118º47’) and at Convict Creek (N37º37’ W118º50’).

At Mammoth Lakes, a fissure in the earth called Earthquake Fault (N37º39’ W119º0’) runs through the pine trees near State Route 203. Dead trees in the vicinity of Horseshoe Lake (N37º37’ W119º1’) signal high levels of carbon dioxide emissions underground. Horseshoe Lake is in the Mammoth Lakes Basin, along with four other glacial lakes. State Route 203 continues to Minaret Vista, then Forest Highway 11 descends into the San Joaquin Valley, ending at Reds Meadow (N37º37’ W119º5’), providing access Devils Postpile National Monument, campgrounds, and hiking areas in the Ansel Adams Wilderness. Reds Meadow is currently (2016) accessible only by shuttle bus in summer. Sentinel Meadow RNA (N37º48’ W118º48’) is a 3,800-acre lodgepole pine and limber pine forest on the northern rim of the Long Valley Caldera. Whitebark pine, sagebrush, and mountain mahogany vegetation are also present. Indiana Summit RNA (N37º49’ W118º55’) is a pristine Jeffrey pine forest of 1,162 acres on a volcanic plateau. The Middle Fork San Joaquin River is eligible for the wild and scenic rivers system in the Ansel Adams Wilderness and in the Inyo National Forest in the vicinity of Rainbow Falls (N37º36’ W119º5’).

Mono Basin

Between Mammoth Lakes and Lee Vining, June Lake Loop Road (State Route 158) passes a U-shaped canyon with lakes and 270-foot Horsetail Falls (N37º46’ W119º8’), which is on Rush Creek below Agnew Lake. Nearby, a glacial moraine is visible in Bloody Canyon (N37º54’ W119º8’).  The Rush Creek Hydroelectric Project of Southern California Edison includes Agnew Lake (N37º45’ W119º8’) and the Rush Creek Powerhouse on the June Lake Loop. Downstream of the powerhouse, Grant Lake, City of Los Angeles (N37º51’ W119º7’), diverts water to the Owens River watershed for eventual diversion to the Los Angeles Aqueduct. Off of the June Lake Loop, Parker Creek (N37º51’ W119º8’) is a wildflower viewing area for mule ears and balsamroot flowers.

West of Lee Vining, on the road to Yosemite National Park, are waterfalls, campgrounds and resorts in Lee Vining canyon. Tioga Lake (N37º56’ W119º15’), Saddlebag Lake (N37º59’ W119º17’), and Ellery Lake are part of the Southern California Edison Lee Vining hydroelectric project. Between Tioga and Ellery Lakes is the Nunatak Nature Trail, which provides high elevation wildflower identification opportunities. Mono Mills (N37º55’ W118º58’) is a former logging and mining site on State Route 120. Wood was hauled via railroad to Bodie via the east shore of Mono Lake. At the northern edge of the forest, Lundy Lake (N38º2’ W119º14’) is another hydroelectric development of Southern California Edison.

Kings River Special Areas

Kings River Experimental Watersheds, Pacific Southwest Research Station, Sierra National Forest, California is a group of eight watersheds where research is conducted on forest management in the semi-arid, patchy southern Sierra Nevada landscape. There is one watershed in the Teakettle Experimental Forest (N36º58’ W119º2’), three in the Dinkey Creek drainage centered on Bull Creek (N36º59’ W119º5’), and four in the Providence Creek area (N37º3’ W119º12’). Physical, chemical and biological indicators are being collected.

Kings River Special Management Area, Sequoia National Monument and Sierra National Forest, California, is 49,000 acres and protects the 8,000-foot-deep Kings Canyon, and extends from its easternmost point at Horseshoe Bend on State Route 180 on the South Fork Kings River (N36º49’ W118º50’) to the confluence with the North Fork Kings River and to the ridges overlooking the canyon. The southernmost portion is south of Sampson Flat (N36º46’ W119º5’), the northwestern portion is on the North Fork Kings River at Rodgers Ridge (N36º53’ W119º7’), and the northeasternmost portion is at Spanish Mountain (N36º55’ W118º55’). There is a wild trout fishery in the Kings River, and the Boole giant sequoia tree (N36º49’ W118º57’) is in the area. The Kings River National Recreation Trail traverses the area.

Sierra National Forest

Sierra National Forest, California, is 1.3 million acres on the western side of the Sierra Nevada between Yosemite National Park and Kings Canyon National Park. Its northern border is the Merced River and its southern boundary is the Kings River. Dinkey Lakes and Kaiser Wildernesses are completely within the forest, while Ansel Adams, John Muir, and Monarch Wildernesses are in both the Sierra National Forest and adjoining public lands. Wilderness areas are described separately. The granite monoliths of the Sierra Nevada are found in this forest which bridges the gap between Kings Canyon NP and Yosemite NP. Vegetation ranges from grasslands to subalpine meadows; ponderosa pine predominates between 4,000 and 8,000 feet elevation. There are no trans-mountain roads leading across the Sierra Nevada in the Sierra National Forest. State Route 168 is the Sierra Heritage Scenic Byway and ends at Kaiser Pass. The Sierra Vista Scenic byway makes a loop in the northern part of the forest south of Yosemite National Park.

Kings River Watershed

In the southern part of the forest is the Kings River watershed. The Helms Pumped Storage Project of Pacific Gas and Electric Company consists of an upper Courtright Reservoir (N37º5’ W118º59’) and a lower Wishon Reservoir (N37º1’ W118º58’). Both reservoirs are reached by taking Forest Highway 40 east from Shaver Lake. In between is the Helms Powerhouse, capable of 1,212 MW of generation. The powerhourse is in a chamber 1,000 feet underground carved out of granite. Courtright Reservoir adjoins the Dinkey Lakes Wilderness and Wishon Reservoir adjoins Ansel Adams Wilderness. Courtright Intrusive Contact Zone Geological Area (N37º5’ W118º58’) is east of Courtright Dam. The contact between two large granitic intrusions at the bedrock of the Sierra Nevada range may be viewed. On the way to Wishon Reservoir, Forest Route 40 crosses Dinkey Creek and the McKinley Grove Botanical Area (N37º1’ W119º7’), 520 acres surrounding an isolated giant sequoia grove. Dinkey Creek Recreation Area (N37º4’ W119º9’) is in the ponderosa pine zone and contains campgrounds and resorts in a streamside setting. King Caverns Geological Area (N36º 55’ W119º 0’) is 338 acres with three major caves and 2,000 feet of passageway and delicate cave formations.

Water from Wishon Reservoir is diverted downstream into the Haas Tunnel, which transports water to the Haas Powerhouse above Black Rock Reservoir (N36º55’ W119º1’). East of Black Rock Reservoir is the Kings River Geological Area (N36º55’ W118º59’). Water from Black Rock Reservoir enters another tunnel which exits at the Balch Powerhouse on Balch Afterbay (N36º55’ W119º6’). Water from Balch Afterbay enters a tunnel which exits at Kings River Powerhouse on Pine Flat Lake (N36º55’ W119º10’).

Sierra Heritage Scenic Byway

The Sierra Heritage Scenic Byway begins at Clovis on the east side of Fresno and climbs to Kaiser Pass at 9,200 feet elevation. After entering the Sierra Nevada ecoregion, Pineridge Vista (N37º4’ W119º22’) provides a view of a 40-mile flume from Shaver Lake used for logging. At Shaver Lake, the Museum of the Central Sierra (N37º7’ W119º18’) at Camp Edison is on land provided by Southern California Edison. The road continues climbing to Huntington Lake, where it provides access to the China Peak Mountain Resort (N37º14’ W119º0’) and two national recreation trails (NRTs) on Sierra National Forest lands. The byway ends at White Bark Vista Point (N37º17’ W119º5’) near Kaiser Pass, adjacent to the Dinkey Lakes Wilderness. From Kaiser Pass, Forest Route 80 continues to Mono Hot Springs (N37º20’ W119º1’) on the South Fork San Joaquin River.

Along the State Route 168 corridor, Dinkey Creek Roof Pendant Geological Area (N37º9’ W119º6’) is 640 acres established to interpret a sequence of five sedimentary rock units metamorphosed by intruded granite. Near Huntington Lake are Black Point National Recreation Trail and Rancheria Falls NRT, described separately. Crater Lake Meadow proposed Geological Area (N37º24’ W119º9′), is 80 acres partially in the Ansel Adams Wilderness. The mountaintop depression is a volcanic pipe of basalt about 3.5 million years old. Granite boulders deposited by glaciers dot the meadow.

The Big Creek Hydroelectric Development of Southern California Edison is accessed from State Route 168 and consists of multiple reservoirs and tunnels in the Sierra National Forest. The complex system is on the South Fork San Joaquin River, San Joaquin River, and Big Creek, all of which are near SR 168. The uppermost reservoirs are on the South Fork San Joaquin River and tributaries. Florence Lake (N37º16’ W118º58’) is on the South Fork San Joaquin River. Its water is supplemented by a diversion dam on Hooper Creek (N37º18’ W118º57’). Water from Florence Lake is diverted into the Ward Tunnel. Water from Chinquapin (N37º18’ W119º1’), Camp 62 (N37º18’ W119º2’), and Bolsillo (N37º19’ W119º2’) Creeks is also diverted to the Ward Tunnel. Lake Thomas A. Edison (N37º23’ W118º59’)) receives water from Mono Creek and Warm Creek. The Mono Creek Diversion Dam (N37º21’ W119º0’) below Lake Thomas A. Edison and the Bear Creek Diversion Dam (N37º20’ W118º59’) divert water to the Mono-Bear Siphon, which also feeds the Ward Tunnel. Ward Tunnel passes the Portal Forebay (N37º19’ W119º4’), where it captures water from Camp 61 Creek, then exits the tunnel through Portal powerhouse at Huntington Lake (N37º14’ W119º12’).

Water from Huntington Lake (Big Creek Dam 3 Reservoir) may be diverted through three pathways. Tunnel 1 leads to a powerhouse above Big Creek Dam 4 Reservoir (N37º12’ W119º14’). Tunnel 7 delivers water to North Fork Stevenson Creek, a tributary of Shaver Lake, or as is usually the case, Tunnel 7 delivers water to Balsam Meadows Forebay (N37º10’ W119º15’). Tunnel 7 also receives diverted water from Pittman Creek (N37º12’ W119º13’). If sent to Balsam Meadows Forebay, the water passes through the Eastwood Powerhouse on Shaver Lake (N37º7’ W119º17’). Shaver Lake is operated as a pumped storage facility with Balsam Meadows Forebay, which is not on national forest lands.

Water from Shaver Lake is diverted through Tunnel 5 to a powerhouse on Big Creek Dam 5 reservoir (N37º12’ W119º18’). Big Creek Dam 5 reservoir also receives water via Tunnel 2 from Big Creek Dam 4 Reservoir. Water in Tunnel 2 is supplemented by water from Balsam Creek (N37º11’ W119º16’) and Ely Creek (N37º11’ W119º17’).

On the San Joaquin River is Mammoth Pool Reservoir (N37º20’ W119º19’). Water from Mammoth Pool is diverted to a powerhouse on Big Creek Dam 6 (N37º12’ W119º20’), which is on the San Joaquin River. Dam 6 also receives water from Big Creek Dam 5 reservoir. The powerhouse on Dam 6 also receives water diverted from Rock Creek (N37º16’ W119º20’) and Ross Creek (N37º14’ W119º21’).

Below Bear Creek Dam 6, water is diverted through Tunnel 3 to Redinger Lake (N37º9’ W119º27’). Water from Redinger Reservoir is diverted to a powerhouse on the upper end of Kerckhoff Reservoir (N37º8’ W119º31’), which is operated by Pacific Gas & Electric. Kerckoff Powerhouse (N37º6’ W119º33’) is just above Millerton Lake in the California Interior Chaparral ecoregion.

Sierra Vista Scenic Byway

The Sierra Vista Scenic Byway has Yosemite-like scenery, with granite domes and rock formations. It begins at North Fork (N37º14’ W119º31’) and follows a loop using Forest Highways 81, 7, and 10, ending at Yosemite Forks on State Route 41. At North Fork is the Cedars Interpretive Trail along Willow Creek. Leaving North Fork on County Road 225 (Italian Bar Road), the byway passes the geographic center of California marker (N37º10’ W119º27’). The route then backtracks to follow Forest Highway 81 (Minarets Road). On Minarets Road is an overlook of Redinger Reservoir (N37º11’ W119º26’), then the road climbs to Ross Cabin (N37º14’ W119º22’), built in the 1860s near a Mono Indian Trail. The Mile High Vista (N37º19’ W119º21’) provides expansive views of the Minarets and numerous domes and buttes. A granite arch known as Arch Rock (N37º27’ W119º17’) is further up Minarets Road.

The byway turns west at Beasore Road (Forest Highway 7) to Jackass Meadow (N37º30’ W119º20’). On Forest Highway 7, Portuguese Overlook (N37º30’ W119º22’) provides a view of the Balls, a series of granite domes in the Ansel Adams Wilderness. Globe Rock (N37º29’ W119º25’) is a granite sphere, precariously perched. Cold Springs Meadow (N37º25’ W119º30’), the highest point on the drive at 7,300 feet, provides a view of Madera Peak.

Continuing on Sky Ranch Road (Forest Highway 10), the byway provides a view of Fresno Dome (N37º27’ W119º32’), then continues to Nelder Grove Historical Area (N37º26’ W119º35’), a 1,400-acre giant sequoia grove that was subjected to lumber activity between 1884 and 1893. There are also more than 100 mature trees left. At Nelder Grove is the Shadow of the Giants National Recreation Trail.

On the North Fork Willow Creek in the Sierra National Forest is the Crane Valley Hydroelectric Development of Pacific Gas and Electric Company. The uppermost reservoir of this development is Chilkoot Lake (N37º25’ W119º29’), which is a storage reservoir. Downstream is the largest of the development, Bass Lake (N37º18’ W119º32’), formed by Crane Valley Dam. Supplemental water is diverted to Bass Lake from the Browns Creek Diversion Dam (N37º18’ W119º30’). From the powerhouse at Bass Lake, the water is diverted through tunnels to a forebay at San Joaquin No. 3 Powerhouse (N37º15’ W119º32’). The outflow from the powerhouse goes into Manzanita Lake (N37º15’ W119º31’). From Manzanita Lake water is diverted to the San Joaquin No. 2 Forebay (N37º12’ W119º30’), where additional power is generated. Water from San Joaquin No. 2 forebay is supplemented through diversion dams on the South Fork Willow Creek and North Fork Willow Creek (both N37º13’ W119º30’). From San Joaquin No. 2, water is sent to the San Joaquin No. 1A Powerhouse, which discharges into Corrine Lake (N37º10’ W119º30’). Water from Corrine Lake is sent through the A.G. Wishon powerhouse to the San Joaquin River (PGE 2006).

Southwest of Yosemite

Along State Route 41 to the south of Yosemite is the Lewis Creek National Recreation Trail, described separately, providing access to waterfalls. The Yosemite Mountain Sugar Pine Railroad (N37º27’ W119º39’), a tourist train, and is nearby to SR 41, as is the Miami Off-Highway Vehicle riding area. Bishop Creek candidate Research Natural Area (N37º36’ W119º42’) is a ponderosa pine stand south of Bishop Creek on the Yosemite National Park boundary southwest of Yosemite Valley. It adjoins the South Fork Merced National Wild and Scenic River. Devils Peak proposed Botanical Area (N37º 36’ W119º 45’) is 1,600 acres protecting Yosemite onion, Congdon’s woolly sunflower and lewisia.

Merced River is designated a wild and scenic river along the northern boundary of the Sierra National Forest from El Portal (N37º40’ W119º49’) to Briceburg (N37º36’ W119º58’). Between El Portal and Briceburg, the vegetation is pine-oak savannah and chaparral. The section from Briceburg to Lake McClure (N37º36’ W120º6’) is considered eligible for the wild and scenic river system. The river in the Sierra and Stanislaus National Forests contains five outstandingly remarkable values (USDA, FS 2015):

  • Geology: contact between metasedimentary and granitic rock
  • Vegetation: four state-listed rare and endangered plants
  • Wildlife: threatened salamander habitat
  • Recreation: white water rafting, camping and hiking
  • Cultural: old Yosemite railroad and mining sites)

South Fork Merced River within the Sierra National Forest is a wild and scenic river. The sections on the boundary with Yosemite National Park (N37º32’ W119º31’) and downstream from the park (N37º35’ W119º42’) for 18 miles to the confluence with the Merced River (N37º39’ W119º53’) are included in the designation. The river contains five outstandingly remarkable values (USDA forest service 2015).

  • Recreation: fishing, nature study, white water rafting
  • Geology: oldest gold-bearing rocks
  • Wildlife: riparian dependent wildlife and rare limestone salamander
  • Fisheries: habitat for native fish
  • Botany: four state-listed rare plants

Stanislaus National Forest

Stanislaus National Forest, California, is 898,000 acres between the Merced River and North Fork Mokelumne River. The forest borders Yosemite National Park on the east. Wilderness areas are Carson-Iceberg, Emigrant, and Mokelumne. Within the Stanislaus, the Stanislaus-Tuolumne Experimental Forest, described separately, is a Biosphere Reserve. The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail passes through the wilderness areas of the forest and is accessed at Ebbetts Pass (N38º33’ W119º49’) and Sonora Pass (N38º20’ W119º38’). The forest includes portions of the Merced and Tuolumne National Wild and Scenic Rivers and two national recreation trails.

Merced River

The southern boundary of the Forest is the Merced Wild and Scenic River. Merced River is designated a wild and scenic river along the southern boundary of the Stanislaus National Forest from El Portal (N37º40’ W119º49’) to Briceburg (N37º36’ W119º58’). Between El Portal and Briceburg, the vegetation is pine-oak savannah and chaparral. The section from Briceburg to Lake McClure (N37º36’ W120º6’) is considered eligible for the wild and scenic river system. The river in the Sierra and Stanislaus National Forests contains five outstandingly remarkable values (USDA, FS 2015):

  • Geology: contact between metasedimentary and granitic rock
  • Vegetation: four state-listed rare and endangered plants
  • Wildlife: threatened salamander habitat
  • Recreation: white water rafting, camping and hiking
  • Cultural: old Yosemite railroad and mining sites

North of the Merced River, the Trumbull Peak Historic and Botanical Area (N37º41’ W119º52’) is 150 acres west of El Portal. The area includes a railroad spur, a logging incline from the peak to the Merced River, and Trumbull Peak lookout. There are populations of three sensitive plants, Allium yosemitense, Eriophyllum congdonii, and Lewisia congdonii. To the northwest in the North Fork Merced watershed, the Jordan Creek Bower Cave Cultural and Geologic Area (N37º45’ W120º2’) is 1,600 acres on Forest Highway 20 south of State Route 120, or east of Coulterville on Greely Hill Road. The site includes a wildflower area, cave, and tribal sacred site. Grizzly Mountain Research Natural Area (N37º43’ W119º55’) is 668 acres with California black oak, ponderosa pine, and chaparral. It is west of Yosemite National Park and north of the Merced River off of Forest Highway 20.

Tuolumne River

South of State Route 120 off of Forest Road 1S13, the Pacific Madrone Botanical Area (N37º48’ W120º0’) is 15 acres in two tracts near the South Fork Tuolumne River. It contains the southernmost groves of Arbutus menziesii, a species more commonly found in coastal areas of the Pacific Northwest. In the Clavey River watershed, a tributary to the Tuolumne, Bell Meadow Research Natural Area (N38º10’ W119º56’) is an aspen stand in a Jeffrey pine forest. William B. Critchfield RNA (N38º7’ W119º54’) is at Bourland Meadows adjoining the Emigrant Wilderness. The 1,003-acre RNA is a red fir research site. Oak scrub is also present. Bourland Creek Trestle Historic Area (N38º3’ W120º0’) is near Forest Road 2N14 off Forest Highway 31. The large, curved wooden trestle is 76 feet above the creek. Nearby is Jawbone Falls Heritage Area (N38º1’ W119º58’), off of Forest Highway 31.

North of State Route 120, Cherry Lake (N37º57’ W119º55’), along with Holm Powerhouse on Cherry Creek (N37º54’ W119º58’)and Kirkwood Powerhouse on the Tuolumne River (N37º53’ W119º57’) within the forest are part of the Hetch Hetchy hydroelectric development of the City of San Francisco. On the South Fork Tuolumne River near State Route 120 is the San Jose Family Camp (N37º50’ W120º0’), operated by the City of San Jose on Stanislaus National Forest lands. Downstream from Hetch Hetchy Reservoir in Yosemite National Park is the Tuolumne Wild and Scenic River (see separate description).

Route 108 to Sonora Pass

State Route 108 bisects the forest between Mi-Wuk Village and Sonora Pass. At the western edge of the forest, the West Side Railroad Grade Trail (N38º0’ W120º12’) provides North Fork Tuolumne River canyon views. Lyons Reservoir, Pacific Gas & Electric Company (N38º6’ W120º10’), is on the South Fork Stanislaus River in the Stanislaus National Forest off State Route 108 at Sierra Village. Water is diverted via the Tuolumne Ditch to Sullivan Creek, and power is generated outside the forest at the Phoenix Reservoir Powerhouse (N38º0’ W120º19’). Uphill on SR 108, Pinecrest Lake (N38º12’ W119º59’), also called Strawberry Reservoir, is operated by Pacific Gas & Electric Company on national forest lands.

Near Pinecrest Lake is the Stanislaus-Tuolumne Experimental Forest (described under Man and the Biosphere Reserves) and Pinecrest National Recreation Trail (described separately). Bull Run Scenic and Geologic Area (N38º15’ W119º57’) is 340 acres, featuring a horseshoe-shaped, lava-capped ridge with unique rock formations. The Trail of the Gargoyles traces the rim. It is found on Forest Road 4N12 (Herring Creek Road) off of State Route 108. Further up Herring Creek Road is a mountain biking area surrounding Herring Creek Reservoir (N38º15’ W119º56’), operated by the Stanislaus National Forest for recreation.

On the Middle Fork Stanislaus River north of State Route 108 are reservoirs and hydroelectric developments. Within the national forest are Sand Bar Dam and tunnel (N38º11’ W120º9’) and Spring Gap Dam and Powerhouse (N38º11’ W120º7’), operated by Pacific Gas & Electric Company. Beardsley Reservoir (N38º13’ W120º4’), Beardsley Afterbay (N38º12’ W120º5’), and Donnell Reservoir (N38º20’ W119º57’) are operated by the Tri-Dam Project, a partnership of the South San Joaquin and Oakdale Irrigation Districts. Niagara Creek and Falls Scenic and Geologic Area (N38º20’ W119º56’), is 320 acres adjacent to State Route 108 near Donnell Lake. A 900-foot waterfall, 500 feet of which is freefall, cascades into the lake in the spring from a hanging valley. By taking Forest Route 5N01 for 12 miles east of SR108, the turnoff for the Bennett Juniper (N38º19’ W119º48’) is on the western edge of Sardine Meadow. This is the largest living western juniper tree.

A few miles to the east of Donnell Reservoir on State Route 108 is the Columns of the Giants Scenic and Geologic Area (38º20’ W119º48’), 105 acres featuring unique columnar basalt formations also found at Devils Postpile National Monument (see under National Park System). Clark Fork candidate Research Natural Area (N38º23’ W119º48’) is 460 acres in the Middle Fork Stanislaus area and contains examples of white fir and red fir forest. Relief Reservoir, Pacific Gas & Electric Company (N38º16’ W119º44’) is on Summit Creek in the Stanislaus National Forest headwaters of the Middle Fork Stanislaus River. It adjoins Emigrant Wilderness and provides supplemental water to downstream reservoirs. The Middle Fork Stanislaus River is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from the Emigrant Wilderness boundary (N38º18’ W119º44’) downstream 15 miles to Donnell Reservoir (N38º21’ W119º56’). Deadman Creek is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from Sonora Pass (N38º20’ W119º38’) downstream to the confluence with the Middle Fork Stanislaus River (N38º19’ W119º45’). Both streams are adjacent to State Route 108. The California National Historic Trail traverses the forest in the Emigrant Wilderness (see) and from Burst Rock (N38º12’ W119º52’) west to Long Barn on State Route 108 east of Sonora (N38º5’ W120º9’).

Route 4 to Ebbets Pass

State Route 4 bisects the forest between Columbia and Ebbets Pass. Windeler Cave Geologic Area (N38º5’ W120º21’) is near Silver Gulch on Forest Road 2N63 northeast of Columbia. The limestone cave is 2,500-feet long with stalagtite and stalagmite formations. At the edge of the national forest along SR 4, Hunter’s Reservoir (N38º12’ W120º22’) is operated by the Utica Water and Power Authority. The dam stores water and diverts it into the Utica Canal, which crosses national forest land on the way to Murphy’s Powerhouse along SR 4 (N38º9’ W120º26’). Arnold Rim Trail extends to the west of SR 4 from Crescent Cove (N38º11’ W120º23’) north to the Sierra Nevada Logging Museum (N38º16’ W120º21’), which overlooks White Pines Reservoir (N38º16’ W120º21’) of the Calaveras County Water District. Further up SR 4, Highland Lakes former Research Natural Area (N38º29’ W119º48’) is a 440-acre mountain hemlock and wet meadow area adjacent to the Carson Iceberg Wilderness. The North Fork Mokelumne River is eligible for the national wild and scenic rivers system from Highland Lakes (N38º30’ W119º48’) downstream nine miles to the Mokelumne Wilderness boundary (N38º32’ W119º55’) downstream of State Route 4.Highland Lakes are reached by turning off State Route 4 west of Ebbets Pass. Downstream of the Mokelumne Wilderness on the North Fork Mokelumne River, Salt Springs Reservoir (N38º30’ W120º11’) is operated by Pacific Gas & Electric on national forest lands. At the western edge of the forest, Schaads Reservoir (N38º23’ W120º26’) is a hydroelectric reservoir on the Middle Fork Mokelumne River. It is operated by the Calaveras Public Utility District.

To the south of State Route 4 in the forest are hydroelectric reservoirs and facilities on the North Fork Stanislaus and tributaries operated by the Northern California Power Agency. The Upper Utica Project consists of three reservoirs. Lake Alpine (N38º29’ W120º0’) is on Silver Creek adjacent to State Route 4 as well as the Carson-Iceberg Wilderness. Union Reservoir (N38º26’ W120º0’) is the uppermost reservoir on the North Fork Stanislaus River. Just downstream is Utica Reservoir. Both release water to the North Fork Diversion Dam (N38º26’ W120º1’) of Calaveras County Water District, which sends water to New Spicer Meadows Reservoir (N38º24’ W120º0’) on Highland Creek for storage. Downstream, water from the North Fork Stanislaus River reaches McKays Point Reservoir (N38º14’ W120º17’) of the Calaveras County Water District. Water from Beaver Creek Diversion Dam (N38º14’ W120º7’) is also diverted to McKays Point Reservoir. At McKays Point, the water enters an 8.5-mile tunnel for power generation at Collierville Powerhouse (N38º9’ W120º23’) on New Melones Reservoir.

Teakettle Experimental Forest

Teakettle Experimental Forest, Sierra National Forest, California (N36º58’ W119º2’), is a watershed management research area with a red fir forest and meadows, located west of the North Fork Kings River on Forest Road 11S12, Black Rock Road.

 

Sierra Nevada Forests, part 3A: Yosemite

The discussion in the next series of posts focuses on the area around Yosemite National Park, including the adjoining national forests. This post describes the Yosemite World Heritage Site.

Yosemite World Heritage Site

There is one World Heritage Site in the Sierra Nevada forests ecoregion. Yosemite National Park, California, is 748,000 acres carved by the glacial erosion of granite, resulting in perhaps the world’s most famous national park landscape. The distinctive landscape of hanging valleys, waterfalls, cirque lakes, polished domes, moraines, and U-shaped valleys. Major park areas are the Yosemite Valley, Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne River, which is in a roadless area between Tuolumne Meadows and Hetch Hetchy Reservoir, Tuolumne Grove, Mariposas Grove, Wawona Dome and Chilnualna Fall, and Glacier Point. The high meadows between 4500 and 7000 feet are part of the Sierra Meadows South important bird area (IBA). One of the few trans-mountain roads in the southern Sierra Nevada is the Tioga Road, which passes through Tuolumne Meadows. The Sierra Nevada Research Station of the University California Natural Reserve System is located in Wawona along the South Fork of the Merced River. Most of the park is also designated as the 704,600-acre Yosemite Wilderness. Exclusion areas outside the wilderness are the roads, hydroelectric reservoirs, private inholdings, campgrounds, and high-volume visitor areas including Yosemite Valley, Wawona, and Glacier Point. These are described first, then the wilderness is described. In addition to the natural features, there are five national historic landmarks in the park.

Areas outside the Yosemite Wilderness include:

Hetch Hetchy Reservoir (N37º57’ W119º47’) and Lake Eleanor (N37º59’ W119º52’) within the park are part of the Hetch Hetchy hydroelectric development of the City of San Francisco. These are described separately in the recreation lakes section.

Aspen Valley (N37º50’ W119º46’) is an area of private inholdings at 6,200-feet elevation on the former Tioga Road (connecting White Wolf with Big Oak Flat) off of Evergreen Road. The 1879 two-story Hodgdon Homestead Cabin was relocated from Aspen Valley to the Pioneer Yosemite History Center in 1960. It is used as an authentic building to interpret pioneer history.

On Big Oak Flat Road are campgrounds and sequoia groves. Merced Grove (N37º45’ W119º50’) is an area of 20 sequoia trees about one mile south of Big Oak Flat Road. Tuolumne Grove (N37º46’ W119º48’) of giant sequoias is one mile north of the junction of Tioga Pass Road and Big Oak Flat Road. Foresta (N37º42’ W119º45’) is an area of private inholdings at 4,200-foot elevation with 30 private homes, some of which are available for vacation rentals, on the western boundary of the park off of Big Oak Flat Road on Coulterville Road.

On Tioga Road are campgrounds and spur roads to other campgrounds such as Tamarack Flat, White Wolf, and Yosemite Creek. White Wolf (N37º52’ W119º39’) is a lodge and campground area and trailhead for the western part of Tioga Road. Tuolumne Meadows (N37º52’ W119º22’) is a lodge and trail head for the high alpine meadows portion of the park along Tioga Road. Yosemite High Sierra Camps are a series of five hike-in tent villages to the west and south of Tuolumne Meadows. These facilities have beds and serve dinner. The camps are located at Glen Aulin (N37º55’ W119º25’), May Lake (N37º51’ W119º30’), Merced Lake (N37º44’ W119º24’), Sunrise (N37º48’ W119º26’), and Vogelsang (N37º48’ W119º21’). The immediate area around the camps is excluded from the wilderness, but the entire trail access is within the wilderness. Vogelsang is the highest camp, at 10,300 feet elevation, and Merced Lake is the lowest, at 7,150 feet. It is currently possible to make reservations at individual camps rather than for the entire 50-mile loop (Ryan 2015).

Parsons Memorial Lodge National Historic Landmark (N37º53’ W119º22’) is located in the Tuolumne Meadows area off Tioga Pass Road.  Built in 1915 by the Sierra Club, it was one of the earliest rustic stone buildings in the national parks. The building was named for Edward Taylor Parsons, a Sierra Club director who was involved in the political fight over allowing Hetch Hetchy Dam to be built in a national park. The Sierra Club lost that battle when Hetch Hetchy and Lake Eleanor were authorized by Congress in 1913. The site commemorates the role of the Tuolumne River in inspiring conservation of the natural world nationwide.

Yosemite Valley (N37º45’ W119º35’) was the center of the first land grant for Yosemite in 1864 and is the major park destination today. The 1980 park General Management Plan describes it as the premiere masterwork of the natural world. Iconic waterfalls line the sheer rock walls of the glaciated valley. Campgrounds and visitor accommodations are also here, although reservations are hard to get. Trails in Yosemite Valley lead to Bridalveil Fall, Mirror Lake, Vernal Fall, Nevada Fall, Yosemite Falls, and Half Dome. At 2,425 feet, Yosemite Falls is the highest waterfall in North America.

Majestic Yosemite Hotel National Historic Landmark (N37º45’ W119º34’)* is part of the Yosemite Valley Historic District and is on the north side of the Merced River at the base of the Royal Arches rock formation on the north valley wall. Built in 1927, the hotel is seven stories and a symbol of design excellence, 1920 architectural ideals, and Rustic-style architecture on a previously unimagined scale. A Great Lounge provides the feel of a national park hotel. The NHL is significant for its role in development of tourism, national parks, concessions in national parks, and in the public appreciation of the national park system (National Park Service 2011).

*In 2016, there is a dispute about names of some concessionaire facilities.

Le Conte Memorial Lodge National Historic Landmark (N37º45’ W119º35’) is on the south side of the Merced River in the Yosemite Valley near the Housekeeping Camp. It was constructed in 1903 by the Sierra Club to disseminate information about the Sierra Nevada and is still used for that purpose. Club volunteers man the memorial in the summer months. In 1919 it was moved to its present location across from the Housekeeping Camp. The structure is unique in the national parks for its Tudor revival architecture. Its historic significance is as a principal foothold of the Sierra Club in the mountains for which it was named.

Rangers’ Club National Historic Landmark (N37º45’ W119º35’) is on the south side of the Merced River in Half Dome Village.* The rustic chalet was built in 1920 and donated to the park by Stephen Mather, the first director of the National Park Service, with the idea that rangers serving in the remote location could be provided a place of their own. The Rustic style was intended for national park architecture to harmonize with nature. The interior of the building has Arts and Crafts characteristics.

**In 2016, there is a dispute about names of some concessionaire facilities.

South of Yosemite Valley, Wawona Road leads to the south entrance. A spur road off of the Wawona Road leads to Badger Pass, Bridalveil Creek, and Glacier Point. Glacier Point (N37º44’ W119º34’) is a 3,000-foot sheer cliff that overlooks Yosemite Valley and is a trailhead for the southern portions of the park. Ostrander Ski Hut (N37º37’ W119º33’) is a winter use facility south of Bridalveil Creek. The immediate area around the hut is excluded from the wilderness, but the trail access traverses the wilderness. Wawona (N37º32’ W119º39’) includes the Pioneer Yosemite History Center and the Big Trees Hotel National Historic Landmark, described below. The Pioneer Yosemite History Center is a collection of historic structures from different locations within Yosemite.

Big Trees Hotel National Historic Landmark (N37º32’ W119º39’)* is on the South Fork Merced River. It is the largest Victorian hotel in a national park, built between 1876 and 1918, and it has operated for more than 100 years. It was constructed on the homestead of one of Yosemite’s earliest settlers, Galen Clark, and and was also the site of a stage station at the crossing of the South Fork Merced River. The seven-building national historic landmark complex contains the studio of Thomas Hill, a landscape painter of the Hudson River School, who painted here from 1886 to 1908. The other six buildings are the main hotel, the Annex, Clark Cottage, the Manager’s House, Moore’s Cottage, and Washburn Cottage.

*In 2016, there is a dispute about names of some concessionaire facilities.

At the southwestern edge of the park is Mariposa Grove (N37º31’ W119º36’). Together with Yosemite Valley, this was the first area set aside by Congress for preservation of Yosemite in 1864 and is considered the birthplace of the national park idea. The giant sequoias occupy about 500 acres and include 500 mature trees. In 2015, a parking area and transit hub is being developed at the park’s south entrance to provide visitor access and protection of the grove.

The Yosemite Wilderness designation includes 705,000 acres. The wilderness is bordered by the Emigrant Wilderness to the north, Hoover to the northeast, Ansel Adams to the southeast. The northernmost point is near Dorothy Lake (N38º11’ W119º35’), the southernmost near Mariposa Grove (N37º30’ W119º35’), the westernmost near Lake Eleanor (N37º59’ W119º53’), and the easternmost at Mount Lewis (N37º51’ W119º12’). Some major features within the wilderness are Jack Main Canyon (N38º3’ W119º41’), the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne River (N37º56’ W119º33’), Lyell Canyon (N37º49’ W119º17’), Little Yosemite Valley (N37º44’ W119º30’), and  Buena Vista Crest (N37º36’ W119º29’).

Trails lead into the wilderness from Hetch Hetchy area (Wapama Falls, Rancheria Falls, Smith Peak), Big Oak Flat (Carlon Falls on South Fork Tuolumne River [from Evergreen Road in Stanislaus National Forest]), Tuolumne Meadows (Lyell Canyon, Mono Pass, Cathedral lakes, Gaylor Lake, Elizabeth Lakes, and Tuolumne River waterfalls), White Wolf (Lukens Lake, Harden Lake, North Dome, Ten Lakes), Glacier Point Road (Sentinel Dome, McGurk Meadow, Mono Meadow), and Wawona (Chilnaulna Falls). The John Muir Trail begins in Yosemite Valley and climbs to Tuolumne Meadows, where it joins the Pacific Crest Trail and continues south to Mount Whitney in Sequoia National Park. The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail traverses the wilderness from Donohue Pass on the Ansel Adams Wilderness boundary (N37º46’ W119º15’) north to Dorothy Lakes Pass on the Hoover Wilderness boundary (N38º11’ W119º35’), passing Lyell Canyon, Tuolumne Meadows, Tuolumne Falls, Virginia Canyon, Matterhorn Canyon, and Jack Main Canyon.

Merced River within Yosemite National Park and wilderness is part of the wild and scenic river system. The river is designated from its source on Mount Lyell to Briceburg (N37º36’ W119º58’), including glacially carved Yosemite Valley. There are four source streams that are included in the designation. Red Peak Fork (N37º40’ W119º23’), Merced Peak Fork (N37º39’ W119º23’), and Triple Peak Fork (N37º38’ W119º20’) confluence from the south, and Lyell Fork (N37º44’ W119º16’) enters from the east. From its source to El Portal (N37º40’ W119º49’)(the Yosemite National Park portion), the river flows through a conifer forest. South Fork Merced River within Yosemite National Park and Wilderness is a wild and scenic river from its source at Chain Lakes (N37º34’ W119º24’) downstream for 22 miles to the park boundary (N37º35’ W119º42’). The river passes the Wawona area. The Tuolumne River and its headwater tributaries Dana Fork and Lyell Fork are designated as wild and scenic rivers within the park and wilderness except for a section of the Tuolumne River at Hetch Hetchy Reservoir. These are described in the wild and scenic rivers section.

Man and the Biosphere Reserves

There are two Biosphere reserves in the Sierra Nevada, Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks and the Stanislaus-Tuolumne Experimental Forest.

Stanislaus-Tuolumne Experimental Forest Man and the Biosphere Reserve

Stanislaus-Tuolumne Experimental Forest, Stanislaus National Forest, California (N38º11’ W119º59’), is on both sides of State Route 108 near Pinecrest. This 1,700-acre research forest is composed of sugar pine, mixed conifer, and black oak forests in two units. One tract is south of Pinecrest and the other is on the South Fork Stanislaus River.

Western Hemisphere Shorebird Reserve Network

Mono Basin National Forest Scenic Area, California, is known for its tufa towers of evaporated salt, the area includes Mono Lake and volcanoes in the Great Basin ecoregion. However, Mono Dome (N37º58’ W119º10’) in the Hoover Wilderness and a portion of the Sierra Nevada forests ecoregion that overlooks the lake is included in the National Forest Scenic Area.

National Historic Landmarks

There are five National Historic Landmarks in Yosemite National Park, which are described under the Yosemite National Park World Heritage Site entry.

Sierra Nevada Forests, part 2E: Tahoe-Eldorado Local Sites

Part 2E describes state and local sites. Donner Memorial State Park is described under National Historic Landmarks. Emerald Bay State Park is described under National Natural Landmarks.

Mother Lode

Antelope Valley Wildlife Area, California, is 5,600 acres in two units on the south side of Sierra Valley. Vegetation is sagebrush and Jeffrey pine. The Antelope Valley unit (N39º38’ W120º17’) is on Sierra County Road 855 south of State Route 49. The Merry-Go-Round unit (N39º40’ W120º20’) is on State Route 49 north of Sierraville.

Auburn State Recreation Area, California, is 38,000 acres along the North and Middle Forks of the American River. The large area contains riparian, chaparral, and mixed conifer habitats with 100 miles of trails and whitewater recreation. Lake Clementine (N38º56’ W121º1’), constructed by the US Army Corps of Engineers on the North Fork American River, is within the recreation area. From the lower end in Knickerbocker Canyon (N38º52’ W121º3’), the area extends along the North Fork to Iowa Hill Road (N39º6’ W120º55’) and along the Middle Fork to Stoney Bar-Mosquito Ridge Road (N39º1’ W120º45’). The Western States Pioneer National Recreation Trail begins in Auburn State Recreation Area at Maidu Drive and China Bar Road in Auburn (N38º52’ W121º4’), follows the Middle Fork American River to Foresthill, then enters the Tahoe National Forest (N39º2’ W120º47’

Blodgett Forest Research Station, University of California-Berkeley (N38º54’ W120º40’), is 4,270 acres 12 miles east of Georgetown on Wentworth Springs Road (Forest Highway 1). It contains a mixed conifer forest with ponderosa pine, sugar pine, white fir, incense cedar, Douglas-fir, and black oak.

Central Sierra Snow Laboratory, University of California, Berkeley (N39º19’ W120º22’), is at Donner Pass off of I-80 at Soda Springs. The laboratory is used for research on snow physics, hydrology, meteorology, and climatology.

Chickering American River Reserve, University of California Natural Reserve System (N39º14’ W120º18’) is 16,900 acres at the headwaters of the North Fork American River bordered by Tahoe National Forest and North Fork Reserve. The area has soda water springs, black oak, conifers, aspen, and meadows.

Crocker Meadows Wildlife Area, California (N39º51’ W120º23’) is 1,700 acres of montane chaparral in two units. Vegetation is sagebrush and bitterbrush with scattered black oak and pine. The site is on Plumas County Road 111 north of Beckwourth and adjoins the Plumas National Forest.

Empire Mine State Historic Park, California (N39º12’ W121º3’) is 850 acres off of State Route 174 in Grass Valley. This was the oldest, largest, deepest, longest, and richest gold mine in California, operated for 100 years from 1850 to 1956. There are mine and building tours, including a map of 367 miles of shafts, and eight miles of multi-use trails.

Finnon Lake, Mosquito Volunteer Fire Association (N38º48’ W120º45’) is a reservoir recreation area north of Placerville on Jaybird Creek, a tributary to South Fork American River (finnonrecreationarea.com).

Indian Grinding Rock State Historic Park, California (N38º26’ W120º38’) is 135 acres with more than 1,000 mortar holes, the largest collection in North America. It is located on the Pine Grove Volcano Road off of State Route 88 east of Jackson. Also at the site are camping opportunities in bark houses, the Chaw’se Regional Indian Museum, a reconstructed Miwok Village, petroglyphs, and trails.

Malakoff Diggins State Historic Park, California (N39º22’ W120º55’), is 3,100 acres north of Nevada City in the San Juan Ridge area. Huge cliffs overlooking Humbug Creek are the remnants of hydraulic mining for gold from the 1850s to the 1880s. The historic gold-mining town of North Bloomfield is also within the park, which extends downstream to the South Yuba River. There are 20 miles of trails. Because entire mountains were being washed away and silt was flowing into San Francisco Bay, endangering navigation, tailings were prohibited from being dumped into the nearby South Yuba River by an 1884 court order. The court decision ended hydraulic mining in the area. The park adjoins South Yuba State Park and Tahoe National Forest lands.

Smithneck Creek Wildlife Area, California (N39º39’ W120º12’) is 1,400 acres south of Loyalton on Sierra County Road 860. Vegetation is sagebrush-bitterbrush and pine. It adjoins the Tahoe National Forest.

South Yuba River State Park, California, stretches for 20 miles with 10 scattered tracts of state lands along the river. The area is approximately 8,700 acres. The upstream end is at Missouri Bar (N39º21’ W120º53’) and the downstream end is at Bridgeport (N39º18’ W121º12’). The park features historic Bridgeport mining camp, the Bridgeport Covered Bridge, the largest single-span covered bridge in existence, and 12 trails. Activity areas are the Hoyt Crossing (N39º18’ W121º5’), which includes a 2.2-mile wheelchair accessible Independence Trail, Purdon Crossing (N39º20’ W121º3’), which is the trailhead for the South Yuba Trail, and Edwards Crossing (N39º20’ W120º59’).  The South Yuba River between Lake Spaulding and the confluence with the Yuba River is a California State Wild and Scenic River.

Mount Zion Demonstration State Forest (N38º23’ W120º39’) is 160 acres south of Pine Grove off of Route 88. It is available for hiking and there is a fire lookout.

Carson-Truckee-Walker Area

D.L. Bliss State Park, California (N38º59’ W120º6’) is on the west shore of Lake Tahoe. The Balancing Rock Nature Trail leads to a unique geologic feature. Vikingsholm House was built in 1929 to look like an ancient Scandinavian house.

Burton Creek State Park, California (N39º12’ W120º9’) is northwest of Lake Tahoe on State Route 28. The 2,000-acre park has six miles of trails, along with the Antone Meadows and Burton Creek State Natural Areas, representing exemplary mountain meadows and riparian forests, respectively.

Eriksson Education Center, California (N39º11’ W120º7’) is a historic fish hatchery and demonstration garden on State Route 28 at Lake Forest Road in Tahoe City. It is operated by University of California-Davis.

Green Creek Wildlife Area, California (N38º8’ W119º14’) is 720 acres of aspen and Jeffrey pine vegetation along Green Creek about 8 miles south of Bishop. It adjoins Toiyabe National Forest and National System of Public Lands-managed property.

Grover Hot Springs State Park, California (N38º42’ W119º51’), is 550 acres four miles west of Markleeville surrounded by the Toiyabe National Forest. The six, 102-degree, green-colored springs are in an alpine meadow surrounded by open pine and sagebrush areas. Trails lead to a waterfall.

Heenan Lake Wildlife Area, California (N38º39’ W119º40’) is 1,700 acres on State Route 89 west of Monitor Pass between Markleeville and Topaz Lake. It adjoins the Toiyabe National Forest. Vegetation is Jeffrey pine, meadows, and sagebrush.

Hope Valley Wildlife Area, California (N38º46’ W119º56’) is 2,900 acres in three units at the junction of State Routes 88 and 89. The West Fork Carson River flows through the property. Vegetation is wet meadow, chaparral, Jeffrey pine, and aspen-lodgepole pine. Hope Valley is a site on the Carson Route of the California National Historic Trail. The emigrant trail from Hope Valley to Luther Pass can be hiked. This trail linked the Carson River Route in Hope Valley with the Johnson Cutoff.

Kings Beach State Recreation Area, California (N39º14’ W120º2’) is on the shore of Lake Tahoe at the Nevada state line. The park provides a beach and lakeside recreation.

Lake Valley State Recreation Area, California (N38º52’ W120º1’), is a 150-acre golf course in South Lake Tahoe. It adjoins Washoe Meadows State Park.

Mormon Station State Historic Park, Nevada (N39º0’ W119º51’) is in Genoa on State Route 206 (Main Street) at Genoa Lane. This was a trading post established in 1851 to serve California emigrants as they prepared to leave the desert and cross the Sierra Nevada.

Red Lake Wildlife Area, California (N38º43’ W119º57’), is 860 acres in five tracts along State Route 88 between Carson Pass and Hope Valley. Vegetation is red fir and lodgepole pine with meadows along Red Lake Creek. The area adjoins Mokelumne Wilderness and Toiyabe National Forest lands.

Slinkard-Little Antelope Wildlife Area, California, is 11,700 acres in six units. The largest acreage is in Little Antelope Valley (N38º31’ W119º30’), Slinkard Valley (N38º36’ W119º35’), and along Mill Creek (N38º25’ W119º29’). The property adjoins Toiyabe National Forest, Carson-Iceberg Wilderness, and the National System of Public Lands along State Route 89 and to the west of US Route 395. The Walker River-Sonora Route of the California National Historic Trail passes through Little Antelope Valley and Little Lost Canyon in the wildlife area.

Lake Tahoe State Recreation Area, California (N39º10’ W120º8’) is a small campground and water access park on the shores of Lake Tahoe on State Route 28 at Tahoe City. Access to a bike path along Lake Tahoe is also provided.

Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park, Nevada, has four main activity areas.

  • The Cave Rock area (N39º3’ W119º57’) provides water access along US Route 50.
  • The Sand Harbor area (N39º12’ W119º56’) includes part of the eastern shore of Lake Tahoe, with beaches and trails on the lake.
  • The Spooner Backcountry is accessed from Spooner Lake (N39º6’ W119º55’) and offers 50 miles of trails on 13,000 acres, available for multiple uses including hiking, equestrian, and biking. The Tahoe Rim NRT east of Marlette Peak (N39º11’ W119º53’) crosses the Spooner Backcountry portion. The Marlette Water System Historic Civil Engineering Landmark is mostly within the Spooner Backcountry section, except for the  pipelines which carry water eastward across the Washoe Valley to Virginia City. The water system carries water from Marlette Lake (N39º10’ W119º54’) and Hobart Creek (N39º12’ W119º52’) down 2,700 feet to the Washoe Valley then back up 1,400 feet to a reservoir above Virginia City and Gold Hill (N39º17’ W119º42’) in the Great Basin ecoregion. At the time it was built (1873) it was the highest pressure water line in the world, with a working head of twice that of any other pipeline. The water system is still in use, supplying Virginia City and Carson City.
  • The Van Sickle unit (N38º57’ W119º56’) is located at the Stateline area and provides a trail connection to Tahoe Rim Trail in addition to a 1914 log cabin.

Tahoe Science Center, Nevada (N39º15’ W119º56’) serves as a science education center. Tahoe Center for Environmental Quality in the same building monitors the quality of Lake Tahoe water and researches alpine lakes. The building is located on Country Club Drive at Mill Creek Road in Incline Village on the campus of Sierra Nevada College and co-sponsored by University of California-Davis, University of Nevada-Reno, and the Desert Research Institute.

Truckee River Wildlife Area, California, is 5,300 acres in five units. The Boca unit (N39º22’ W120º6’) is in four tracts along I-80 east of Truckee. The Gray Creek Canyon unit (N39º21’ W120º1’) is in three tracts adjoining Toiyabe National Forest lands south of the Truckee River. The Polaris Unit (N39º20’ W120º9’) is east of Truckee on the north side of the river. The Union Ice unit (N39º22’ W120º3’) is along I-80 and adjoins Tahoe National Forest land on the Truckee River.  The West River unit (N39º19’ W120º12’) is southwest of Truckee on the south side of the river.

Washoe Meadows State Park, California (N38º52’ W120º2’) is an open space area on Sawmill Road at Lake Tahoe Boulevard in South Lake Tahoe. It adjoins the Lake Valley State Recreation Area.

Ed Z’berg Sugar Pine Point State Park, California (N39º3’ W120º8’) is 2,320 acres on the west side of Lake Tahoe. It is noted for dense pine and fir forests. The Hellman-Ehrman House is a historic estate built in 1903 as a summer home by a wealthy resident. General Creek Trail provides access to the Desolation Wilderness six miles to the west.

Private Sites

Black Chasm Caverns, California, is described under National Natural Landmarks.

Donner Lake Preserve, Truckee Donner Land Trust, California (N39º19’ W120º19’) is 2,100 acres west of Donner Lake and includes the Donner Summit Canyon Trail to Donner Pass in the Tahoe National Forest.

Independence Lake Preserve, The Nature Conservancy and Truckee Donner Land Trust, California (N39º27’ W120º18’) is a pristine alpine lake protected as a refuge for rare fish, including a wild population of the Lahontan cutthroat trout. It is located off of State Route 89 north of Truckee. Water storage is owned by Truckee Meadows Water Authority. The preserve borders the Sagehen Experimental Forest and Tahoe National Forest.

Perazzo Meadows, Truckee Donner Land Trust, California (N39º29’ W120º19’) is 980 acres on Henness Pass Road off of Forest Highway 7 near Truckee. The property is a wildlife viewing area near the Tahoe National Forest Mount Lola Trailhead. The willow thickets in the meadows are part of the Northern Sierra Meadows Important Bird Area. The willow thickets host Lincoln’s sparrow, Wilson’s warbler, and willow flycatcher.

Royal Gorge, Truckee Donner Land Trust, California (N39º18’ W120º22’), is 3,000 acres on I-80 west of Donner Pass, adjoining the Tahoe National Forest. The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail and Truckee Route of the California National Historic Trail cross the property.

Sierra Buttes, Sierra County Land Trust, California (N39º36’ W120º37’) is 1,000 acres at the northernmost granitic outcrop in the Sierra Nevada, overlooking the North Fork Yuba River. The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail crosses the property, which adjoins the Tahoe National Forest on State Route 49 north of Sierra City.

Waddle Ranch Preserve, Truckee Tahoe Airport District and Truckee Donner Land Trust, California (N39º19’ W120º6’) is 1,400 acres to the east of Martis Reservoir off of State Route 267. It includes hiking trails and Dry Lake (Ella Lake).

Webber Lake Preserve, Truckee Donner Land Trust, California (N39º29’ W120º25’) is 3,000 acres on Jackson Meadows Road west of State Route 89 north of Truckee. A hiking trail is maintained from the lake to Lacey Meadows on Tahoe National Forest Road 86. The Trust for Public Land was involved in the acquisition of the property.

Sierra Nevada Forests, Part 2D: Mother Lode trails, wilderness areas, and wild rivers

Part 2D describes the national trail system, wilderness areas, and  wild and scenic rivers in the Tahoe-Eldorado area of the Sierra Nevada forests.

 

National Trails System

California National Historic Trail

The Beckwourth Trail, Walker River-Sonora Route, Carson Route, and Truckee Routes of the California National Historic Trail cross the Sierra Nevada ecoregion. In addition, the emigrants used at least 11 alternate routes in addition to the four main routes. One alternate route that ultimately became the most popular was the Johnson Cutoff, which is roughly modern-day U.S. Route 50.

Walker River-Sonora Route was the original route dating from 1841. Its modern-day equivalent is through the Hoover and Emigrant Wilderness areas. It was a very difficult route, going over 9,800-foot Emigrant Pass, and was abandoned in 1854. Sites in the Sierra Nevada ecoregion include Little Lost Canyon in Slinkard-Little Antelope State Wildlife Area (N38º30’ W119º30’); Upper Levitt Meadow, Toiyabe National Forest (N38º20’ W119º33’); Browder Flat, Hoover Wilderness; Fremont Lake, Hoover Wilderness (N38º15’ W119º33’); Little Emigrant Valley, Emigrant Wilderness (N38º12’ W119º39’); Hubbs Grave Site, Emigrant Wilderness (N38º14’ W119º43’); Relief Camp, Emigrant Wilderness (N38º14’ W119º45’); and Burst Rock, Emigrant Wilderness and Stanislaus National Forest (N38º12’ W119º52’).

The Carson Route roughly follows State Route 88 over 8,500-foot Carson Pass. Sites in the Sierra Nevada forests ecoregion include Woodfords Station (N38º47’ W119º50’), Hope Valley (now in Hope Valley Wildlife Area) (N38º46’ W119º56’), Carson Pass, Toiyabe National Forest (N38º42’ W119º59’), Caples Lake, Eldorado National Forest (N38º42’ W120º2’), Emigrant Valley, Mokelumne Wiilderness (N38º40’ W120º3’), West Pass, Eldorado National Forest and Mokelumne Wilderness (N38º40’ W120º3’), Melissa Cordy Peak, Mokelumne Wilderness and Eldorado National Forest (N38º39’ W120º2’), Tragedy Springs, Eldorado National Forest (N38º38’ W120º9’), and Union House (N38º46’ W120º33’). The 15-mile section from Caples Lake to Tragedy Springs is designated a National Recreation Trail. The section of trail east of Carson Pass in the Toiyabe National Forest is known as Devils Ladder (N38º42’ W119º59’) where emigrants had to use block and tackle to haul wagons up the steep slope from Red Lake.

The Truckee Route was another early route, dating to 1844, which roughly follows today’s I-80 over 7,000-foot Donner Pass. Sites in the Sierra Nevada ecoregion are in the Tahoe and Toiyabe National Forests. In the Toiyabe National Forest are Dog Valley (N39º33’ W120º2’) and Donner Camp (N39º23’ W120º11’). The Donner Lake site (N39º19’ W120º14’) is in Donner Memorial State Park. Donner Pass (N39º19’ W120º20’), Roller Pass (N39º18’ W120º19’), and Bear Valley (N39º18’ W120º41’) are in the Tahoe National Forest. The Mule Springs site (N39º15’ W120º48’) is on private land.

Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail

Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail extends 2,600 miles from Canada to Mexico, passing through some of the most scenic areas in California. The Sierra Nevada section provides a tour of wilderness areas.

North of Carson Pass, the trail enters the Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit and follows the western watershed divide around Lake Tahoe. The trail joins the Tahoe Rim Trail in the Upper Truckee area north of Carson Pass (N38º43’ W120º1’) and crosses Echo Summit (US Route 50) (N38º49’ W120º2’) before entering the Desolation Wilderness at Upper Echo Lake. It leaves the Desolation Wilderness at Lost Corner Mountain and enters the Tahoe National Forest at Miller Meadows (N39º2’ W120º14’).

In the Tahoe National Forest, the trail enters Granite Chief Wilderness at Twin Peaks (N39º6’ W120º14’) and leaves the wilderness at Granite Chief (N39º12’ W120º17’). It then crosses Donner Pass (N39º19’ W120º19’), Donner Summit (N39º21’ W120º20’), Meadow Lake Road (N39º25’ W120º27’), Henness Pass Road (N39º30’ W120º32’), State Route 49 at Sierra City (N39º35’ W120º37’), Summit Lake (N39º40’ W120º41’) on the Plumas National Forest boundary, and leaves the forest at Gibraltar (N39º43’ W120º46’).

Pony Express National Historic Trail

Pony Express National Historic Trail crosses the Sierra Nevada from the Carson Valley to Placerville. Portions of the trail cross the Toiyabe National Forest, Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit, and Eldorado National Forest in the Sierra Nevada. Most of the stations and sites are privately owned. Sites from east to west are listed.

Mormon Station State Historic Park, Nevada (N39º0’ W119º51’) is in Genoa on State Route 206 (Main Street) at Genoa Lane. This was a trading post established in 1851 to serve California emigrants as they prepared to leave the desert and cross the Sierra Nevada. Van Sickle’s Station, Nevada (N38º56’ W119º51’), privately owned, was the site of a hotel built in 1857 and a stop at the base of the Kingsbury Grade, now State Route 207, which climbs over the Carson Range to Lake Tahoe.

Woodford’s Station, California (N38º47’ W119º49’) is at the junction of State Routes 88 and 89. This was the initial route prior to the completion of the Kingsbury Grade over the Carson Range.

Friday’s Station, Nevada (N38º58’ W119º56’) was in present-day Stateline, Nevada on US Route 50 just south of the junction with State Route 207 (Kingsbury Grade).

Yanks Station Toll House, California (N38º51’ W120º1’) was a hotel and trading post in addition to a Pony Express station. It was on US Route 50 at Apache Avenue in present-day Meyers. The route to Echo Summit was via the Hawley Grade (N38º48’ W120º1’), which was the first graded wagon road in the Sierra, built in 1857, with original retaining walls and cobblestones still visible. The Hawley Grade National Recreation Trail is on Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit lands. The trail passes the Lake Valley House, a station on the Pony Express Trail.

Strawberry Valley House, California (N38º48’ W120º9’), was the first stop after crossing Echo Summit. It is on US Route 50. The eight-mile trail between Strawberry Valley House and Sugar Loaf House is designated Pony Express National Recreation Trail. Sugar Loaf House, California (N38º46’ W120º19’) is one mile west of Kyburz on US Route 50.

Riverton Station, California (N38º46’ W120º27’) is on US Route 50 at the bridge over the South Fork American River. In the Pony Express period, the river crossing was at Brockliss Bridge, below Bridal Veil Falls in the Eldorado National Forest (N38º46’ W120º30’) downstream near Pacific.

Sportsman Hall Station, California (N38º46’ W120º35’) is on Old Pony Express Trail in Pollock Pines. This was considered one of the finest restaurants and hotels along the route.

Placerville Station, California (N38º44’ W120º48’) was at the junction of Main and Sacramento in Placerville.

National Recreation Trails (NRTs)

Carson Emigrant Historic NRT, Mokelumne Wilderness and Eldorado National Forest, is 15 miles, extending from Caples Lake Dam (N38º42’ W120º4’) to Tragedy Spring (N38º38’ W120º9’), both on State Route 88, the Carson Pass National Scenic Byway. The trail is partially in the Mokelumne Wilderness and passes Plasse Trading Post site and Mud Lake in the Eldorado National Forest.

Donner Camp NRT, Tahoe NF, California (N39º23’ W120º11’), is a 0.4-mile trail with interpretive displays at the Donner Camp Picnic Area north of Truckee on State Route 89.

Hawley Grade NRT, Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit, California (N38º48’ W120º1’) is a 1.8-mile trail from Echo Pass on US Route 50 to the Upper Truckee River. It was the former route of the Pony Express Trail.

Pioneer NRT, Tahoe NF, California, extends from the forest boundary at Five Mile House east of Nevada City (N39º17’ W120º57’) parallel to State Route 20 to Bear Valley, and then north to Lake Spaulding (N39º20’ W120º38’).

Pony Express NRT, Eldorado National Forest, is eight miles between Strawberry (N38º47’ W120º9’) and Kyburz (N38º46’ W120º20’). The trail is a multiple use trail paralleling US Route 50.

Pope-Baldwin NRT, Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit (N38º56’ W120º3’) is a three-mile paved bicycle path following State Route 89 through national forest system lands between South Lake Tahoe and Tallac Creek.

Tahoe Rim NRT, California and Nevada, is a ridgetop trail extending 165 miles across national forest and state lands managed by Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit, Toiyabe National Forest, and Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park. The trail crosses the southern portion of the Mount Rose Wilderness. The trail makes a complete loop around Lake Tahoe. The portion west of Lake Tahoe is co-located with the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail. The portion around the east side of the lake in the map area offers views of the Carson Valley as well as Lake Tahoe. The south junction of the TRT with the Pacific Crest NST is along the Upper Truckee River, California (N38º43’ W120º1’). Trailheads on the east side are at Big Meadow-State Route 89 crossing in California (N38º47’ W120º0’), Kingsbury Grade-State Route 207 near Daggett Pass in Nevada (N38º59’ W119º54’), Spooner Summit on US Route 50 in Nevada (N39º6’ W119º54’), Tahoe Meadows on State Route 431 in Nevada (N39º18’ W119º55’), Brockway Summit on State Route 207 in California (N39º16’ W120º4’), and Tahoe City, California at the junction of State Route 89 and 28 (N39º10’ W120º8’). The northern connection with the Pacific Crest Trail is at Twin Peaks (N39º6’ W120º14’). The Pacific Crest Trail portion passes through the Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit, Tahoe National Forest, Eldorado National Forest, and Desolation Wilderness. Access is at Barker Pass (N39º5’ W120º14’) and at Echo Summit on US Route 50 (N38º49’ W120º2’).

Western States Pioneer NRT, National System of Public Lands, Tahoe National Forest, and Auburn State Recreation Area, California, begins in Auburn State Recreation Area at Maidu Drive and China Bar Road in Auburn (N38º52’ W121º4’), follows the Middle Fork American River to Foresthill, enters the Tahoe National Forest (N39º2’ W120º47’), and continues east to Painted Rock (N39º13’ W120º11’), in the Squaw Valley area on State Route 89 near Lake Tahoe. The trail is 55 miles long and used for endurance riding

South Yuba NRT, National System of Public Lands and Tahoe National Forest, California, begins at the Purdon Crossing in South Yuba River State Park (N39º20’ W121º3’) and extends 12 miles upstream to Poorman Creek in the Tahoe National Forest (N39º21’ W120º49’).

National Wild and Scenic River System

The North Fork American River, Tahoe National Forest and National System of Public Lands, is a wild and scenic river from the Colfax-Iowa Hill Bridge (N39º6’ W120º55’) 38 miles upstream to Green Valley/Heath Springs (N39º15’ W120º24’).

National Wilderness Preservation System

The 23 areas that make up the National Wilderness Preservation System include some of the oldest and largest areas in the wilderness system. Yosemite Wilderness is described under World Heritage Sites. The John Krebs Wilderness and Sequoia-Kings Canyon Wilderness areas are described under Man and the Biosphere Reserves.

Carson-Iceberg Wilderness, Stanislaus and Toiyabe National Forests, California, is 161,000 acres, with 12 peaks above 10,000 feet and 200 miles of trails, located between State Routes 4 and 108. Volcanic ridges and peaks including The Iceberg (N38º25’ W119º45’) and The Dardanelles (N38º24’ W119º45’), are found in the wilderness.  On the southeast boundary, Sonora Peak reaches 11,459 feet. The Iceberg is visible from the end of Clarks Fork Road. Deep canyons drain to the Stanislaus and Carson Rivers. The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail traverses the wilderness from the East Fork Carson River headwaters on Sonora Peak (N38º22’ W119º38’) to north of Wolf Creek Pass (N38º30’ W119º46’), passing Boulder Peak along the way. The East Fork Carson River is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system for 27 miles from its source (N38º22’ W119º38’) to the Silver King Valley (N38º33’ W119º38’). Carson Falls is included in this river reach. Other sites showing the extent of the wilderness are Wolf Creek Lake in the north (N38º36’ W119º40’), Clark Fork Meadow and St. Marys Pass (N38º21’ W119º39’) in the south, Donnell Lake and the Middle Fork Stanislaus River (N38º20’ W119º58’) in the southwest, Rose Meadow near Lake Alpine (N38º28’ W120º0’) in the west, Antelope Peak (N38º28’ W119º33’) in the east, and the Elephant Rock (N38º27’ W119º58’). Access points from the Stanislaus National Forest include Iceberg Meadow at The Iceberg, Clark Fork Campground (N38º24’ W119º48’), and Tryon Meadow on Highland Lake Road (N38º30’ W119º48’). From the Toiyabe National Forest, Rodriquez Flat (N38º31’ W119º33’) and Wolf Creek Meadows (N38º35’ W119º42’) provide trail access. Silver King Creek (N38º28’ W119º36’) in the Toiyabe section is considered a potential National Natural Landmark.

Desolation Wilderness, Eldorado National Forest and Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit, is 64,000 acres of glacially smoothed terrain with 130 lakes and granite peaks. Middle Mountain proposed Research Natural Area (N38º56’ W120º10’) is 400 acres of mountain hemlock vegetation type. The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail crosses the wilderness from Lost Corner Mountain (N39º0’ W120º13’) south to Upper Echo Lake (N38º51’ W120º5’). Trailheads on the Lake Tahoe Basin side of the wilderness include Mount Tallac (N38º55’ W120º4’), Glen Alpine (N38º53’ W120º5’), Echo Lakes (N38º50’ W120º3’), Eagle Falls (N38º57’ W120º7’), Bayview (N38º57’ W120º6’), and Meeks Bay (N39º2’ W120º8’). Rubicon Reservoir, Sacramento Municipal Utility District (N38º59’ W120º13’) is on the Rubicon River in the wilderness. It is part of the Upper American River hydroelectric project. Lake Aloha (N38º52’ W120º8’) is on Pyramid Creek in the southern part of the wilderness. It drains to the South Fork American River as part of the hydro projects of the El Dorado Irrigation District. There are six auxillary dams that keep the reservoir from overflowing into other lakes in the vicinity.

Granite Chief Wilderness, Tahoe National Forest, California, is 25,100 acres between the Rubicon River and Middle Fork American River. Topography is exposed rocks, cliffs, and glacier-carved forested valleys. The northernmost point is near Lyon Peak (N39º13’ W120º20) and the southernmost point is near the Rubicon River (N39º3’ W120º18’) upstream from Hell Hole Reservoir. The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail crosses the wilderness between Twin Peaks (N39º6’ W120º14’) and Granite Chief (N39º12’ W120º17’). The Western States Pioneer Recreation Trail crosses the wilderness from French Meadows (N39º11’ W120º21’) to Squaw Valley Ski Area (N39º12’ W120º17’).  The wilderness borders the Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit and is usually accessed from the Lake Tahoe area.

Hoover Wilderness, Inyo and Toiyabe National Forests and Mono Basin National Forest Scenic Area, California, is a 124,500-acre region of alpine lakes and meadows adjacent to Yosemite NP. It extends from 300-foot Leavitt Falls (N38º19’ W119º34’) in the north to the Twenty Lakes Basin (N37º59’ W119º18’) in the south. The Pacific Crest Trail crosses a small portion of the wilderness from Dorothy Lake Pass (N38º11’ W119º35’) to Kennedy Canyon (N38º15’ W119º36’). Sites in the Toiyabe portion include Kennedy Canyon and Tower Canyon in the West Walker River drainage, Virginia Lakes,Green Creek, Barney Lake, Peeler Lake, and Little Slide Canyon. Sites in the Inyo portion include Lundy Canyon, Tioga Peak, and Twenty Lakes Basin. Mono Dome is in the Mono Lakes National Scenic Area portion. Rainbow Meadows Research Natural Area (N38º9’ W119º31’) is a 1,500-acre area of subalpine white bark pine and pristine alpine habitats in the West Walker River headwaters near Hawksbeak Peak, adjoining Yosemite NP. Harvey Monroe Hall Research Natural Area (N37º58’ W119º18’) is 3,900 acres of alpine meadow and subalpine forest north of Tioga Pass on the Yosemite National Park boundary. The West Walker River is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its headwaters (N38º10’ W119º33’) downstream to Leavitt Meadows (N38º18’ W119º33’) in the wilderness. The Walker River-Sonora Route of the California National Historic Trail crosses the wilderness from Leavitt Meadow (N38º20’ W119º33’) to Fremont Lake (N38º15’ W119º33’).

Mokelumne Wilderness, Eldorado, Stanislaus, and Toiyabe National Forests, California, is 105,000 acres in two sections separated by the Deer Valley four-wheel-drive route (N38º34’ W119º55’). The west segment extends from Winnemucca Lake in the north and Avalanche Meadow in the south. This is a volcanic area that has been shaped by glaciers. Volcanic peaks include Elephants Back (N38º41’ W119º59’) and Round Top (N38º40’ W120º0’), which is also a geological and botanical special interest area. A glaciated valley in the west section is Summit City Canyon (N38º39’ W119º59’). In the east section, glaciated valleys include Pleasant Valley (N38º38’ W119º52’) and Thornberg Canyon (N38º39’ W119º51’). The west section extends from Grover Hot Springs in the north and Grouse Flat on State Route 4 in the south. The North Fork Mokelumne River and its canyon in the wilderness from State Route 4 (N38º32’ W119º55’) 18 miles downstream to Salt Springs Reservoir (N38º30’ W120º9’) is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system. The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail traverses the two sections of the wilderness between Carson Pass (N38º41’ W120º0’) and Raymond Meadow (N38º35’ W119º50’) north of Ebbetts Pass. Round Top Botanical and Geological Area (N38º41’ W119º59’) is 4,000 acres in the northwestern portion of the wilderness and Eldorado National Forest lands to the north. Snow Canyon proposed RNA (N38º37’ W119º59’) in the Eldorado portion is a subalpine forest with western white pine, alpine barrens, and shrub steppe. The Carson Route of the California National Historic Trail crosses the wilderness in the area of Emigrant Valley (N38º40’ W120º3’) near Caples Lake. This trail is designated the Carson Emigrant Historic National Recreation Trail.

Mount Rose Wilderness, Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit and Toiyabe National Forest, Nevada, is in two units separated by Hunter Lake Road (Forest Road 392). The Carson Range, including 10,780-foot Mount Rose, is included along with meadows and small lakes. Trails from the east side begin at the Galena Creek Visitor Center (N39º22’ W119º51’) and adjacent Galena Regional Park. The Tahoe Rim National Recreation Trail crosses the wilderness from Relay Peak (N39º16’ W119º57’) west to Mount Baldy (N39º17’ W120º0’).

National Fish Hatchery System

The Lahontan National Fish Hatchery, Nevada (N38º53’ W119º42’) is focused on recovery of the endangered cui-ui (Chasmistes cujui) and Lahontan cutthroat trout, which migrated between Lake Tahoe and Pyramid Lake in the Truckee River. Fish are placed in Pyramid Lake, Walker Lake, the Truckee River, Fallen Leaf Lake, and Marlette Reservoir to aid in the recovery, with the goal of restoring the fish to their historic range in the Sierra Nevada.

Other Federal Sites

Indian Creek Recreation Area, National System of Public Lands, California (N38º45’ W119º47’), is 7,000 acres in the eastern Sierra north of Markleeville off of State Route 89. A campground, eight miles of trails, and the Curtz Lake Environmental Study Area are featured.

Mountain Warfare Training Center, U.S. Marine Corps, California (N38º22’ W119º31’) is on State Route 108 in the Toiyabe National Forest. Training occurs on 46,000 acres of the Toiyabe National Forest.

Stevens Trail, National System of Public Lands, California (N39º6’ W120º57’) begins at I-80 on Canon Way in Colfax and extends four miles, providing views of the North Fork American River, Cape Horn loop of the Central Pacific Railroad, and Secret Ravine.

Part 2E describes state and local sites in the Mother Lode (Tahoe-Eldorado areas).