North Central Rockies forests Part G Local State and Provincial Sites

Part G State and local sites in the North Central Rockies forests:

A wide range of parks and public lands are found in the North Central Rockies forests. The following lists are not all inclusive and many state and provincial forests and trust lands are not included. The public lands listed here were ones that were located based on publicly available information. One state park, Coeur d’Alene Old Mission, was previously described under National Historic Landmarks. Creston Valley Wildlife Management Area was described under Ramsar sites as a wetland of international importance.

Continental Divide Ranges

The easternmost of the parallel ranges making up the North Central Rockies forests includes the Akamina-Kishena Provincial Park, Frank Slide Interpretive Center, and Montana wildlife areas along the Rocky Mountain front.

Akamina-Kishinena Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚1’ W114˚9’) is in the southeastern corner of British Columbia, adjoining Glacier National Park and Waterton Lakes National Park.  The 10,920-ha wilderness park is accessed via Waterton Lakes NP in Alberta and contains 1.3-billion-year old limestone mountains and waterfalls.

Allison/Chinook Public Land Use Zone, Alberta (N49-40 W114-36) is north of Crowsnest Pass municipality.

Beauvais Lake Provincial Park, Alberta (N49˚25’ W114˚7’) is on the Rocky Mountain front south of Route 507 between Beaver Mines and Pincher Creek.  A network of trails includes a hike to Mount Albert, 1620 m elevation.

Beaver Mines Lake Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚22’ W114˚18’) is a camping and hiking area at the end of Range Road 32a.

Black Creek Heritage Rangeland, Alberta (N49˚55’ W114˚11’) is north of the Oldman River and west of Route 22, including Whaleback Ridge.

Blackleaf Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N48˚0’ W112˚40’) is 10,000 acres of winter range for elk and mule deer and summary habitat for black and grizzly bear.  It is located on the Rocky Mountain front west of Bynum.

Bob Creek Wildland Provincial Park, Alberta (N49˚58’ W114˚17’) is a hiking and hunting area in the Livingstone Range north of the Oldman River and accessible from Township Road 104a on the north side of the Oldman River west of Route 22. It is an important elk range and protects the west side of Whaleback Ridge.

Canyon Creek Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N46˚56’ W112˚20’) is north of Helena on Route 279 adjoining the Helena National Forest in the Robert E. Lee Range.

Castle Special Management Area Forest Land Use Zone, Alberta, includes the Rocky Mountain area between Waterton Lakes NP and the municipality of Crowsnest Pass.  There are designated OHV and hiking trails.  Beaver Mines Lake, Castle Falls, Castle River Bridge, West Castle Wetlands, Lynx Creek, and Syncline provincial recreation areas are within this area. Castle Falls Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚27’ W114˚19’) is a camping and hiking area on Range Road 32a west of Beaver Mines. Castle River Bridge Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚24’ W114˚20’) is a camping and hiking area on Route 774 south of Beaver Mines. West Castle Wetlands Ecological Reserve, Alberta (N49˚20’ W114˚25’) is a hiking area adjacent to Route 774 near the Castle Mountain Ski Resort. The area is noted for spring wildflowers. Lynx Creek Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚7’ W114˚25’) is on Township Road 61a south of Bellevue and provides hiking and camping. Syncline Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚23’ W114˚21’) is a hiking area located on the Castle River south of Beaver Mines on Route 774.

Chinook Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚40’ W114˚36’), is a hiking area north of Route 3 and west of Blairmore off of Range Road 52a.

Crowsnest Rest Stop and Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚39’ W114˚42’) is on Route 3 just north of the Alberta border. It was a prehistoric chert mining site and campsites date to 6,600 years BP. The park is also a winter range for elk and deer.

Dutch Creek Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚54’ W114˚24’) is a hiking and camping area on Route 940 on the Oldman River.

Ear Mountain Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N47˚50’ W112˚40’) is 3,047 acres located west of Choteau on the Rocky Mountain front, adjoining the Lewis and Clark NF. It is managed for mule deer, bighorn sheep, and grizzly.

Elkhorn State Park, Montana (N46˚16’ W111˚56’), is east of Boulder. It is an historic silver mining town. The state park protects two structures in the privately owned town.

Frank Slide Interpretive Center Provincial Historical Park, Alberta (N49˚36’ W114˚24’), is in Crowsnest Pass municipality near Route 3. In 1903, part of Turtle Mountain collapsed and buried 90 residents of a coal mining town, along with industrial facilities, ranches, and a railroad track.  It was Canada’s worst rock slide disaster. It is believed that karst topography with limestone caves, as well as past glaciation which left a hanging valley, contributed to the disaster. A coal mine in the area had exhibited shifting rocks and cracked timber structures, providing an early warning sign that was not recognized. The interpretive center has trails and guided tours. Nearby was the Hillcrest Mine, where 189 miners were killed in a gas explosion in 1914; they are buried in the Hillcrest Cemetery in a mass grave. Also near the site is an eagle watch site of the Rocky Mountain Eagle Research Foundation at the south end of the Livingstone Range.

Island Lake Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚38’ W114˚40’), is a campground on Route 3 near Crowsnest Pass.

Leitch Collieries Provincial Historic Site, Alberta (N49˚33’ W114˚19’) is on Route 3 in Crowsnest Pass municipality and was the most sophisticated coal mine in the early 20th century. Operating from 1907 to 1915, the mine featured 101 coke ovens, a washing area, and a huge tipple. Nearby privately operated Bellevue Underground Mine offers tours of a coal mine that operated until 1961.

Lundbreck Falls Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚35’ W114˚13’) is on the Crowsnest River adjacent to Route 3.  The river drops 12 m over a waterfall into a canyon.

Oldman River North Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚57’ W114˚26’) is a camping and hiking area west of Route 940.

Racehorse Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚50 W114˚26’) is a hiking area on Route 940 at Racehorse Creek, north of Route 3 and Blairmore.

Spotted Dog Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N46˚30’ W112˚40’) is 38,000 acres northeast of Deer Lodge on Rocky Ridge between I-90 and US 12.

Sun River Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N47˚35’ W112˚38’) is 19,771 acres west of Augusta and south of the Sun River.  It includes the Sawtooth Ridge and grasslands to the east. It is known for bighorn sheep, elk, and pronghorn.

McDonald-Whitefish and Swan-Mission Ranges

The first line of parallel ranges west of the Continental Divide include public lands in the Flathead, Swan, and Clearwater valleys. Notable sites are the Top O’ the World Provincial Park, the Fort Steele Heritage Town, and the Owen Sowerine Natural Area.

Coal Creek State Forest, Montana (N48˚41’ W114˚18’), is on the Flathead River on the west side of Glacier NP, and is 15,000 acres in extent in the Whitefish Range.

Elk Valley Provincial Park and Olson Rest Area, British Columbia (N49˚39’ W114˚55’), is a picnic area on Route 3 which provides access to riparian habitat on the Elk River, a tributary to Lake Koocanusa.

Mount Fernie Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚29’ W115˚6’) is three km south of Fernie on Route 3.  It is used as a mountain biking area and protects old growth cottonwood and a riparian ecosystem on the Elk River.

Mount Jumbo Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N46˚55’ W113˚56’) is 120 acres just north of Missoula in the Rattlesnake NRA area.

Kikomun Creek Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚14’ W115˚15’) is 680 ha on Lake Koocanusa off of Route 93. It is a hiking and camping park on the reservoir.

Kootenai/Woods Ranch Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N48˚59’ W115˚2’) is 1,417 acres east of U.S. Route 93 on the Canadian border, managed for elk, deer, and sheep winter range.

Ray Kuhns Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N48˚20’ W114˚24’) is 1,530 acres on the Stillwater River north of Kalispell. There is a horse trail.

Marshall Creek Wildlife Management Area (N47˚16’ W113˚38’) is 24,170 acres in the Mission Range northwest of Seeley Lake, managed for fish and game habitat.

Les Mason State Park, Montana (N48˚28’ W114˚22’), is a lakeside recreation area on Whitefish Lake.

Morrissey Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚23’ W115˚1’), protects a black cottonwood ecosystem along the Elk River between Fernie and Elko on Route 3.

Norbury Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚32’ W115˚29’) provides walking trails and camping on two lakes in a valley with a view of the Steeples in the Hughes Range of the Rocky Mountains.

Placid Lake State Park, Montana (N47˚7’ W113˚30’) is a lake recreation site located west of State Route 83 near Seeley Lake adjacent to the Lolo NF.

Premier Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚55’ W115˚39’) is off of Route 93-95 at Skookumchuck. This 662-ha park provides four fishing lakes (southern end of Premier Lake, Rockbluff Lake, Canuck Lake, and Yankee Lake) and a hiking trail system in an open grassland-forest ecosystem on the west side of the Rocky Mountains.

Owen Sowerine Natural Area, state school trust lands, Montana (N48˚11’ W114˚17’), occupies public land survey section 16 at the confluence of the Stillwater and Flathead Rivers in Kalispell. It is an IBA for red-naped sapsucker, pileated woodpecker, and willow flycatcher.

Fort Steele Heritage Town, British Columbia (N49˚38’ W115˚37’) is a provincially-owned living history exhibit operated by the Friends of Fort Steele Society. It is a former gold rush town 16 km northeast of Cranbrook on Routes 93-95.

Swan State Forest, Montana (N47˚45’ W113˚50’), is on State Route 83 south of Swan Lake, and is 40,000 acres in extent.

Top of the World Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚51’ W115˚25’) includes 2,900-m peaks of the Kootenay Range and covers 8,790 ha. The wilderness area is at the head of the Lussier River, 42 km southeast of Canal Flats on Route 93-95 and is noted for old growth balsam and Douglas fir, some lodgepole pine, and alpine wildflowers.

Wardner Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚25’ W115˚25’) is on the upper end of Lake Koocanusa and provides reservoir recreation.

Wasa Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚47’ W115˚44’) is a camping, swimming, and bicycling area on Routes 93-95 north of Cranbrook. The park protects grasslands of the East Kootenay Trench.

Wayfarers State Park, Montana (N48˚3’ W114˚5’) is on the northeast side of Flathead Lake at the confluence of the Swan River. Trails overlook the lake. It is on State Route 35 south of Bigfork.

Whitefish Lake State Park, Montana (N48˚26’ W114˚22’), is a lake recreation park on the west side of Whitefish Lake on State Park Road.

Yellow Bay State Park, Montana (N47˚53’ W114˚2’), is a lakeside recreation area on the east side of Flathead Lake on State Route 35.

Salish Range

West Kootenai Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N48˚59’ W115˚14’) is 960 acres on the west side of Lake Koocanusa at the Canadian border and is managed as winter range.

Logan State Park, Montana (N48˚2’ W115˚4’), is a lake recreation area on Middle Thompson Lake on US Route 2 near Happy’s Inn.

Lone Pine State Park, Montana (N48˚10’ W114˚20’), is a hiking area on the south side of Kalispell, with cliffs featuring views of the Flathead Valley and Glacier National Park.

Lake Mary Ronan State Park, Montana (N47˚56’ W114˚23’) is a lakeside recreation area with trails to wildflowers in the boreal forest, seven miles north of Dayton.

Stillwater State Forest, Montana (N48˚30’ W114˚30’) is 93,000 acres along US 93 south of Olney.

West Shore State Park, Montana (N47˚56’ W114˚11’), features glacially carved rock outcrops providing views of Flathead Lake, Mission Mountains,and Swan Mountains. It is a lakeside recreation area.

Wild Horse Island State Park, Montana (N47˚51’ W114˚13’), is a 2,000-acre island in Flathead Lake accessible from Big Arm State Park. It includes trails through old growth ponderosa pine and grassland.

 Purcell-Cabinet and Bitteroot-Clearwater Ranges

Coeur d’Alene’s Old Mission State Park is described under NHLs. Notable mountain parks include the Kianuku Provincial Park, Kimberley Nature Park, Purcell Wilderness Conservancy, St. Marys Alpine Provincial Park, Mary McCroskey State Park, Snow Peak Cooperative Management Area, and St. Maries Wildlife Management Area. Long distance bicycle trails include the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes and Coeur d’Alene Parkway state parks. The Pend Oreille Wildlife Management Area provides waterfowl habitat along the reservoir system.

Bull River Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N48˚12’ W115˚51’) protects wetlands at the upper end of the Bull River on State Route 56 in the Cabinet Mountains.

Coeur d’Alene Parkway State Park, Idaho is a six-mile bicycle trail along the north shore of Coeur d’Alene Lake east of the city of Coeur d’Alene. The east end is Higgins Point (N47˚38’ W116˚41’) and the west end is near Exit 15 on I-90 (N47˚40’ W116˚45’). The trail continues as the North Idaho Centennial Trail along the Spokane River west to the state line, and the trail continues 37 miles west into Washington as the Spokane River Centennial National Recreation Trail, ending at Nine Mile Falls (N47˚46’ W117˚34’).

Coeur d’Alene River Wildlife Management Area, Idaho, is an IBA that contains undisturbed wetlands that support waterfowl and shorebirds. A recreational bike path (Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes State Park) traverses the 5,000-acre area, which extends from Harrison (N47˚27’ W116˚47’) upstream 25 miles to Rose Lake (N47˚35’ W116˚28’).  Another area of the WMA is along the Coeur d’Alene Lake, St. Joe River embayment at Round Lake (N47˚22’ W116˚43’).

Dworshak State Park, Idaho, is in three units on the western shore of Dworshak Reservoir.  A lodge and marina are at Big Eddy (N46˚32’ W116˚18’), a campground is at Freeman Creek (N46˚35’ W116˚17’) and a group camp is at Three Meadows (N46˚36’ W116˚18’).

Farragut State Park, Idaho (N47˚57’ W116˚36’) is 4,000 acres at the south end of Lake Pend Oreille on the site of the former Farragut Naval Training Station, where 293,000 sailors trained in World War II. The Museum of the Brig interprets the facility. About 40 miles of trails wind through the former military facility.

Farragut Wildlife Management Area, Idaho (N47˚58’ W116˚37’) is adjacent to Farragut State Park on the south end of Lake Pend Oreille and contains a network of hiking trails.

Fish Creek State Park, Montana (N46˚57’ W114˚42’), includes hiking to the lookout atop Williams Peak, located south of I-90, exit 66, west of Missoula.

Fish Creek Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N46˚54’ W114˚41’), is 34,573 acres located north and south of I-90 Exit 66. It is former Plum Creek Timber Company land purchased in 2008 by the Nature Conservancy. About 350 elk winter in the area.

Gilnockie Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚5’ W115˚39’) is 2,800 ha located south of Moyie Lake on Route 3-95 via logging roads.  It includes a small isolated valley draining south into the Yaak River in Kootenai NF and protects old growth fir and larch.

Gilnockie Creek Ecological Reserve, British Columbia (N49˚1’ W115˚39’) is an area at the confluence of Gilnockie Creek and Yahk River used for silvicultural and genetic research on western larch.

Heyburn State Park, Idaho (47˚21’ W116˚46’), is 8,000 acres of ponderosa pine forest at the south end of Coeur d’Alene Lake. The St. Joe River channel is separated from the lake by berms, which create the unusual illusion of a river cutting through a lake. The park was created from the Coeur d’Alene Indian Reservation in 1908 by an act of Congress. There are eight miles of trails. The park is an IBA for its great blue heron rookery.

Horse Barn Valley Interpretive Forest, British Columbia (N49˚39’W116˚2’) is a 200-ha old growth cedar forest at Kimberley.

Jimsmith Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚29’ W115˚50’) is west of Cranbrook and provides camping in a Douglas fir and larch forest..

Kianuko Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚25’ W116˚25’) provides caribou, moose, and grizzly habitat in an old growth forest at the Goat River headwaters. It is 11,600 ha in size.

Kimberley Nature Park, city of Kimberley, British Columbia (N49˚39’ W116˚0’), is an 800-ha hiking area with 50 km of trails. It is managed by the Kimberley Nature Park Society on Crown land.

Marysville Falls, Kimberley, British Columbia (N49˚38’ W115˚58’), is a 30-m waterfall accessed by a short trail off of Route 95A.

Kootenai Falls Wildlife Management Area (48˚27’ W115˚42’) is 172 acres with three miles of Kootenai River frontage, on the north side of the river across from US Route 2.

Kootenay Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia, includes five sites on the shoreline of Kootenay Lake used for camping and lakeside recreation. The Davis Creek (N50˚7’ W116˚55’) and Lost Ledge (N50˚6’ W116˚56’) sites are north of Kaslo on Route 31.  Coffee Creek (N49˚42’ W116˚54’) is on Route 31 north of Balfour.  Campbell Bay (N49˚57’ W116˚52’) is on the eastern side of the lake accessible by water only, while Midge Creek (N49˚23’ W116˚50’) is on the western side of the lake accessible by water only.

Lockhart Beach Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚30’ W116˚47’) protects temperate rainforest habitat on the east shore of Kootenay Lake on Route 3A north of Creston.

Lockhart Creek Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚30’ W116˚42’) is a 3,700-ha old growth cedar-hemlock forest east of Kootenay Lake.

Mary McCroskey State Park, Idaho (N47˚4’ W116˚56’) is on Mission Mountain north of Moscow on US Route 95. The rugged and isolated mountain rises above the Palouse prairie.  The 5,300-acre park has an 18-mile Skyline Drive and 32 miles of trails.

Moyie Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚22’ W115˚50’) is a camping area on a lake with wetlands and old growth cottonwood forests. It is located on Routes 3-95 about 20 km south of Cranbrook.

North Idaho College (N47˚41’ W116˚48’) is at the outlet of Lake Coeur d’Alene on the Spokane River in Coeur d’Alene. The lakeshore is an IBA for gulls and waterfowl.

Painted Rocks State Park, Montana (N45˚41’ W114˚18’) is a reservoir recreation area on Painted Rocks Lake in the upper Bitterroot River valley. The lake is surrounded by granite and rhyolite cliffs with green, yellow, and orange lichens, thus the name. It is south of Darby off State Route 473.

Pend Oreille Wildlife Management Area, Idaho, is a multi-unit public land resource, mostly waterfowl areas, on Lake Pend Oreille and surrounding areas.  Clark Fork Delta (N48˚9’ W116˚14’) consists of islands with old growth cottonwood and grand fir at the Clark Fork entrance to Lake Pend Oreille.  It is an IBA for ducks, common loon, great blue heron, and bald eagle. Other units with the same habitat are Clark Fork Drift Yard and Carter Island, both adjacent to State Route 200 at the Clark Fork entrance to the lake. Denton Slough (N48˚11’ W116˚5’) is an IBA with a colony of western grebe and other waterfowl, accessible from State Route 200 east of Sandpoint. Derr Creek (N48˚7’ W116˚10’) is on the Clark Fork River upstream from the lake.  In the middle of the lower embayment of the lake is Pearl Island (N48˚13’ W116˚20’).

The Pack River Delta (N48˚19’ W116˚23’) is at the north end of the lake and is an IBA for waterfowl and common loon. The site includes Fisherman Island and Oden Bay of Lake Pend Oreille, which are also IBAs. Along the Pack River upstream of the reservoir are the Trout Creek, Rapid Lightning Creek (N48˚22’ W116˚24’), Gold Creek, and Lower Pack River (N48˚22’ W116˚26’) units.

Along US Route 2 and the riverine portion of the reservoir (Pend Oreille River) are Hornby Creek (N48˚15’ W116˚38’), Carr Creek (N48˚15’ W116˚39’), Mallard Bay (N48˚13’ W116˚41’), Musket Lake (N48˚15’ W116˚40’), Morton Slough (N˚48˚12’ W116˚42’), Hoodoo Creek (N48˚9’ W116˚45’), Riley Creek (N48˚10’ W116˚47’), Carey Creek (N48˚9’ W116˚51’), Priest River (N48˚10’ W116˚52’), Strong Island and North Shore Strip (N48˚11’ W116˚58’), and Albeni Cove (N48˚10’ W117˚0’). Morton Slough is an IBA for diving ducks and other waterfowl.

Off-reservoir units along US Route 95 include Westmond Lake (N48˚10’ W116˚32’), Cocolalla Lake (N48˚6’ W116˚37’), and Tall Pines (N47˚48’ W116˚40’) east of Hayden Lake.  The Hauser unit (N47˚46’ W117˚1’) is off of State Route 53 east of Spokane, Washington. Westmond Lake is an IBA for black tern and waterfowl.

Purcell Wilderness Conservancy Provincial Park and Protected Area, British Columbia (N50˚0’ W116˚30’) is a 202,700-ha wilderness area extending from the shoreline of Kootenay Lake to the Purcell Mountain range. Dewar Creek Hot Springs (N49˚57’ W116˚31’) is reached by following the St. Marys River Road to its end, then hiking along Dewar Creek. Above the hot springs are unique plant communities.

Roundhorn Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N47˚32’ W115˚3’) is 27 acres of cliffs providing bighorn sheep habitat, visible from State Route 200 west of Plains and east of Thompson Falls.

Ryan Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚8’ W116˚2’) is a picnic area on Route 3-95 on the Moyie River south of Cranbrook.

St. Maries Wildlife Management Area, Idaho, includes Miners and Flat Creeks (N47˚13’ W116˚32’), an area of old growth western hemlock providing habitat for northern goshawk and pileated woodpecker and designated an IBA.

St. Mary’s Alpine Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚50’ W116˚20’) is a 9,000-ha wilderness park with 32 lakes, granite cliffs, tundra, and snowfields, mostly above 7,000 feet in elevation. There are numerous waterfalls, some up to 150 m in height.  Access is from Kimberley over forest roads which end at trailheads outside of the park.

Mount Silcox Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N47˚36’ W115˚17’) is 1,552 acres east of Thompson Falls on State Route 200, managed for bighorn sheep winter range.

Snow Peak Cooperative Wildlife Management Area (N47˚3’ W115˚33’), on Forest Highway 201 east of Fishhook is an area of checkerboard ownership between the state and federal governments, with 12,000 acres of state land and 20,000 acres of national forest ownership.  The area is managed for mountain goat and other high elevation animal species; there are 40 miles of trail.

Thompson Falls State Park, Montana (N47˚37’ W115˚23’) is a riverside recreation area just north of Thompson Falls on the Clark Fork River off Blue Slide Road (Route 472).

Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes State Park, Idaho, extends from Plummer (N47˚20’ W116˚53’) east 72 miles to Mullan (N47˚28’ W115˚48’). It is a paved bicycle trail and passes Heyburn State Park, Coeur d’Alene Lake, Coeur d’Alene Wildlife Management Area, and Coeur d’Alene Old Mission State Park National Historic Landmark.

Yahk Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚5’ W116˚6’) is a campground on the Moyie River on Route 3-95 in the town of Yahk about 70 km south of Cranbrook.

Selkirk Range

Notable mountain sites include the Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park, Mount Spokane State Park, and Valhalla Provincial Park.

Beaver Creek Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚4’ W117˚37’) is located on the Columbia River downstream from Trail on Route 22A. The 81-ha camping and hiking park includes a ponderosa pine forest.

Champion Lakes Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚11’ 117˚37’) includes the three Champion Lakes and Kearns Lake, providing old growth forest, fishing, and hiking trails between the lakes. It is located off of Route 3 east of Castlegar.

Le Clerc Wildlife Area, Washington (N48º34’ W117º17’) is 600 acres in four sections on the Pend Oreille River and the West Branch Le Clerc Creek 25 miles downstream from Newport. The area has an elk feeding station and is managed for grizzly bear recovery.

Cody Caves Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚44’ W116˚54’) is a small park protecting a one-km-long limestone cave on the west side of Kootenay Lake west of Ainsworth Hot Springs. Guided tours are offered.

Crawford/Gardner Cave State Park, Washington (N49˚0’ W117˚22’) is just south of the British Columbia border and west of the Pend Oreille River at the Boundary Dam crossing, surrounded by the Colville National Forest. The park offers tours of a 1,000-foot-long limestone cavern.

Drewry Point Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚25’ W116˚49’) is on the west shore of Kootenay Lake and accessible only by boat, providing a lakeside recreation area.

Erie Creek Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚11’ W117˚18’) is a mature cedar-hemlock forest located between Route 3 and Erie Creek west of Salmo.

Evans Lake Ecological Reserve, British Columbia (N49˚51’ W117˚42’) is at the head of Evans Lake within the large Valhalla Provincial Park.  The area protects a yellow cedar community that is more typical of alpine coastal areas.

Grohman Narrows Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚30’ W117˚23’) is located five km west of Nelson on Routes 3A-6 on the Kootenay River.  The small 10-ha park has old growth black cottonwood and rare pond and wetland species.

Kokanee Creek Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚36’ W117˚8’) is 260 ha on Route 3A north of Nelson. Located on the West Arm of Kootenay Lake, the shoreline includes sandy beaches. There is a canyon with old growth western cedar and grand fir.

Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚45’ W117˚8’, includes the Kokanee Glacier and nearby Woodbury Glacier just to the north. The 32,000-ha wilderness park includes 30 lakes, cliffs, rock slides, and 85 km of trails. Trailheads and access are at Woodbury Creek, Gibson Lake, and Enterprise Creek.

McArthur Lake Wildlife Management Area, Idaho (N48˚31’ W116˚27’), is north of Sandpoint on US Route 95. The 1,200-acre area is an IBA for ducks, waterfowl, and shorebirds including Canada goose and coots.

Midge Creek Wildlife Management Area, British Columbia (N49˚27’ W116˚53’), is 15,000 ha and protects a migration corridor west of Kootenay Lake for grizzly bear, birds, bats, and caribou.

Pilot Bay Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚38’ W116˚52’) is a lakeside recreation area on Kootenay Lake just south of the Kootenay Bay ferry terminal (Route 3A).  The park has a hiking trail network and a 1904 lighthouse. The karst topography supports rare plant communities.

Priest Lake State Park, Idaho is in three units on the eastern shore of Priest Lake, a 19-mile-long, 300-foot-deep lake. The Dickensheet Unit (N48˚27’ W116˚54’) is at the lake outlet along the Priest River and offers canoeing. The Indian Creek unit (N48˚37’ W116˚50’) is on East Shore Road 17 miles off of State Route 57 and is a camping-hiking area with a visitor center. The Lionhead Unit (N48˚44’ W116˚49’) is at the north end of Priest Lake and offers hiking and camping.

Round Lake State Park, Idaho (N48˚10’ W116˚38’) is 140 acres west of US Route 95 between Coeur d’Alene and Sandpoint.  Trails wind around a 50-acre lake.

Rustler’s Gulch Unit of Sherman Creek Wildlife Area, Washington (N48º5’ W117º25’) is on the West Branch Little Spokane River featuring forests and wetlands.

Mount Spokane State Park, Washington (N47º55’ W117º7’), is 13,000 acres of old growth forest in the Selkirk Mountains, with a winter sports area, 100 miles of hiking trails, 100 miles of horse trails,a nd 90 miles of bicycle trails. The park is at the end of State Route 206 off of US Route 2 northeast of Spokane.

Stagleap Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚7’ W117˚0’) is the highest all-weather paved road in Canada. The site on Route 3 about 30 km west of Creston protects habitat for the mountain caribou.

Valhalla Provincial Park, British Columbia, includes 50,000 ha in the Valhalla Range of the Selkirk Mountains, to the west of Route 6. Evans Lake (N49˚51’ W117˚39’) and Beatrice Lake (N49˚52’ W117˚36’) are unusually large high elevation lakes.  New Denver Glacier (N49˚57’ W117˚30’), Devils Couch, and other craggy spires are in the park, which also includes the shoreline of Slocan Lake on its eastern boundary. Forests are western red cedar and western hemlock with alpine areas.

West Arm Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚33’ W117˚7’) is south of the West Arm of Kootenay Lake and accessible by boat.  The undeveloped park includes 25,300 ha.

Monashee Range

Notable sites include Gladstone Provincial Park and Granby Provincial Park.            

Christina Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚2’ W118˚13’) is on Route 3 and provides lakeside recreation opportunities just north of the Washington-British Columbia border.

Gladstone Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚13’ W118˚13’) includes 39,000 ha, including old growth cedar-hemlock forests, pictographs, and Christina Lake, a trout spawning area.

Granby Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚40’ W118˚30’),  protects the upper watershed of the Granby River and is managed for grizzly habitat and old growth cedar hemlock.

Nancy Greene Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚15’ W117˚55’) includes a subalpine lake with a 5-km trail at the junction of Routes 3 and 3B west of Castlegar.

King George Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚0’ W117˚50’), is 160 ha on Route 22 at the border with Washington state.  It is noted for old growth cottonwood.

Syringa Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚22’ W117˚54’) is 4,420 ha on Lower Arrow Lake, a Columbia River reservoir, upstream from Castlegar. The park has Douglas-fir, ponderosa pine, and bunchgrass vegetation and hiking trails.

Private sites in the North Central Rockies forests:

Ainsworth Hot Springs, British Columbia (N49˚44’ W116˚55’) is on Route 31 on Kootenay Lake. The 108˚F water drips from a horseshoe-shaped cave.

Ball Creek Ranch Preserve, the Nature Conservancy, Idaho (N48˚48′ W116˚25′), is located north of Kootenai. The 2,600 acres protects waterfowl habitat on the Kootenai River.

Calispell Lake, Washington (N48˚16’ W117˚20’) is a waterfowl area on a tributary to the Pend Oreille River northwest of Newport.  It is managed by a private waterfowl club and is an IBA.

Dancing Prairie Preserve, the Nature Conservancy, Montana (N48˚56’ W115˚5’) is north of Eureka and protects the rare Spalding’s catchfly in a grassland valley east of Lake Koocanusa.  The preserve has drumlins and kettles from glacial activity.

Island Lake Lodge, British Columbia (N49˚30’ W115˚10’) includes a forest with 800-year old trees in Cedar Valley at Fernie.

Lolo Hot Springs, Montana (N46˚44’ W114˚32’) is located 35 miles west of Missoula on U.S. Route 12.

Oviatt Creek Fossil Beds, Idaho (N46˚45’ W116˚17’), are former St. Joe National Forest lands southwest of Elk River. These 15-million-year-old lake bed sediments have fossils of bald cypress, sycamore, redwood, avocado, and red oak among other plants (Solberg 1997).

Skookumchuck Prairie, British Columbia (N49˚49’ W115˚45’) is on Routes 93-95 in the Rocky Mountain trench at Skookumchuck. The grasslands here support breeding long-billed curlews and make the site an Important Bird Area.

Swan River Oxbow Preserve, The Nature Conservancy, Montana (N47˚53’ W113˚51’), is a marshy area which protects a threatened Howellia plant, adjacent to the Swan River NWR.

Reference

Solberg, Dustin. 1997.  15 Million Years of History Near Elk River.  Moscow Pullman Daily News, Friday, September 26, 1997. http://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=2026&dat=19970926&id=4r4jAAAAIBAJ&sjid=yNAFAAAAIBAJ&pg=4555,2734063

 

 

Wild Rivers, Wilderness Areas and Refuges in the North Central Rockies Forests

North Central Rockies Forests, Part F—Wild and Scenic Rivers, Wilderness Areas, and Refuges

Wild and Scenic River System in North Central Rockies Forests (NA 518)

There are three units of the national wild and scenic river system in the North Central Rockies forest ecoregion, including six segments of rivers.

The wild and scenic river designation for the Middle Fork Clearwater River, Idaho, includes two tributaries of the Clearwater, the Selway and Lochsa.  The Selway River, Nez Perce National Forest (NF) and Bitterroot NF, Idaho, is a wild and scenic river from its origin (N45˚30’ W114˚45’) almost 200 miles downstream to Lowell (N46˚9’ W115˚36’) on US Route 12. The Lochsa River, Clearwater National Forest, Idaho, is a designated recreational from its confluence with the Selway (N46˚9’ W115˚36’) at Lowell upstream to Powell Ranger Station (N46˚31’ W114˚42’). The upper Lochsa River, Idaho is an IBA for breeding harlequin ducks. The Middle Fork Clearwater is a designated recreational river from Lowell (N46˚9’ W115˚36’) downstream to Kooskia (N46˚8’ W115˚58’).

Flathead River, Montana, designation includes portions of the Middle Fork, North Fork, and South Fork of the Flathead River, within the boundaries of Flathead NF and Glacier NP. The North Fork designation extends from the Canadian border (N49˚0’ W114˚29’) to the confluence with the Middle Fork (N48˚28’ W114˚4’). The Middle Fork designation extends from its origin at Gooseberry Park (N48˚0’ W113˚4’) in the Bob Marshall Wilderness to the confluence with the South Fork at the city of Hungry Horse (N48˚23’ W114˚5’). The South Fork designation extends from its origin at Youngs Creek Ford in the Bob Marshall Wilderness (N47˚27’ W113˚11’) north to Hungry Horse Reservoir (N48˚0’ W113˚32’). Along Forest Road  2826, a trail leads to Meadow Creek Gorge (N47˚0’ W113˚25’), a 60-foot-wide, 100-foot-deep narrows.

St. Joe River, St. Joe National Forest, Idaho, includes a 42-mile recreational section from the junction with the North Fork at Avery (N47˚15’ W115˚48’) upstream along Forest Highways 50 and 218 to Spruce Tree Campground (N47˚2’ W115˚21’). From Spruce Tree, trails follow a 29-mile wild river section to Rambikur Falls and St. Joe Lake (N47˚1’ W115˚5’) on the Montana state Line. The river is noted for scenic, crystal clear water, pools, riffles, waterfalls, and moss and fern-covered cliffs extending to the water’s edge.

National Wilderness Areas in  the North Central Rockies Forests

There are eight units of the national wilderness preservation system in the North Central Rockies forests, including the third largest contiguous wilderness area in the US made up by combining the Great Bear, Bob Marshall, and Scapegoat Wildernesses.

Great Bear Wilderness, Flathead NF, Montana, extends from near West Glacier (N48˚30’ W113˚56’) southeast to the Spotted Bear River (N47˚54’ W113˚15’), encompassing 286,700 acres and including 50 miles of the Middle Fork Flathead wild river. The ridge running the length of the wilderness from Pyramid Peak (N48˚27’ W113˚53’) to Beacon Mountain (N47˚59’ W113˚32’) has a continuous alpine zone, while at lower elevations the forests are subalpine fir, grand fir, and Douglas-fir. Other alpine zones are along Vinegar Mountain (N48˚11’ W113˚31’). On Great Northern Mountain (N48˚20’ W113˚47’) is Stanton Glacier. The Bear Creek Trailhead on US Route 2 (N48˚14’ W113˚34’) provides access to a trail that follows the Middle Fork to the Bob Marshall Wilderness boundary (N48˚4’ W113˚10’). The eastern part of the wilderness is in the Lewis and Clark Range and includes Tent Mountain (N48˚9’ W113˚12’). The Spotted Bear River along the southern wilderness boundary is eligible for the national wild and scenic rivers system.

To the south and east of the Great Bear Wilderness is the immense Bob Marshall Wilderness, Flathead NF and Lewis and Clark NF, Montana, encompassing 1,009,000 acres and including the Sawtooth, Chinese Wall, and Swan Ranges. The Chinese Wall (N47˚42’ W113˚9’), a 22-mile-long, 1,000-foot-high escarpment, is a major feature. The Continental Divide National Scenic Trail traverses the wilderness and runs along the base of the Chinese Wall for part of its traverse between Muskrat Pass (N48˚9’ W113˚5’) south to the West Fork South Fork Sun River (N47˚33’ W112˚57’). Rocky Mountain at 9,392 feet (N47˚49’ W112˚48’) is the highest point and is at the headwaters of the South Fork Teton River on the eastern boundary within the Lewis and Clark NF. Fossils of seashells, corals, and tubeworms are evident in the limestone rocks which are 70 to 100 million years in age (Howe 2013). The north end of the wilderness is at Birch Creek (N48˚10’ W112˚54’) near Swift Reservoir on the Blackfoot Reservation, the south end is near Limestone Pass (N47˚17’ W113˚7’), and the southwest end near Pyramid Pass (N47˚16’ W113˚22’). The south and southwest areas are accessible from trailheads in the Lolo NF. The wilderness has extensive areas of alpine vegetation including the Trilobite Range (N47˚57’ W113˚8’), Three Sisters (N47˚46’ W113˚5’), Chinese Wall, Flathead Alps (N47˚31’ W113˚9’), Picture Ridge (N47˚44’ W113˚28’), and Albino Basin (N47˚38’ W113˚38’). The South Fork Flathead wild and scenic river traverses the center of the wilderness from north to south. In the north, the Middle Fork Flathead wild and scenic river also enters the wilderness. Along the South Fork Flathead and to the east, the wilderness is underlain by limestone and carbonate rocks, but these areas are drier than areas to the west and the forest is sparser. To the west of a line created by the alpine peaks Picture Ridge, Scarface, Gordon, and Apex, the forest is moister. Walling Reef Research Natural Area (RNA) (N48˚6’ W112˚47’) contains limestone cliffs south of Swift Reservoir on the Rocky Mountain Front. It also features wind-deformed limber pine and Douglas fir. The Spotted Bear River from its headwaters near Spotted Bear Pass (N47˚45’ W113˚’) north to the wilderness boundary (N47˚54’ W113˚14’) is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system. Gateway Creek (N48˚3’ W113˚0’), a tributary to the Middle Fork Flathead River, flows through a narrow gorge bisecting two large monoliths several hundred feet high and is considered eligible for the national wild and scenic river system. Other streams in the wilderness which are eligible for the national wild and scenic river system are Big Salmon Creek (N47˚34’ W113˚30’), Little Salmon Creek (N47˚39’ W113˚31’), White River (N47˚37’ W113˚12’), and Danaher Creek (N47˚24’ W113˚6’).

Scapegoat Wilderness, Helena, Lewis and Clark, and Lolo NFs, Montana, is 240,000 acres, forested with subalpine fir, Douglas fir, and ponderosa pine; and extending between Deadman Hill (47˚29’ W112˚55’) in the north, Arrastra Mountain (N47˚10’ W112˚3’) in the south and Omar Mountain (N47˚13’ W113˚6’) in the west. Limestone cliffs surround Scapegoat Mountain, creating the south end of the Chinese wall. The Continental Divide National Scenic Trail traverses the wilderness, entering the north end at the South Fork Sun River (N47˚29’ W112˚55’) and following the Dearborn River before exiting at the south end (N47˚10’ W112˚55’). Alpine areas are at Scapegoat Mountain (N47˚19’ W112˚50’) and Olson Peak (N47˚13’ W112˚46’). The wilderness also includes the headwaters of the North Fork Blackfoot River (N47˚11’ W112˚55’). Red Mountain RNA (N47˚7’ W112˚44’) contains alpine tundra and lodgepole pinewith fellfields and stone strip patterning.

In the Mission Range, Mission Mountains Wilderness, Flathead NF, Montana, is 74,000 acres and is noted for alpine lakes. The northern edge of the wilderness is at Fatty Lake (N47˚42’ W113˚56’) and the southern edge is at Gray Wolf Lake (N47˚17’ W113˚49’). The wilderness features peaks that rise 7,000 feet above the valley floors. Turquoise Lake (N47˚21’ W113˚51’) is a mile-long lake at the base of glacial cirques, accessible from a trailhead (N47˚23’ W113˚48’) on Forest Route 561 west of State Route 83 north of Missoula (Howe 2013). An alpine area is at Gray Wolf Peak (N47˚17’ W113˚32’). Adjacent and to the west is Mission Mountains Tribal Wilderness of the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes. The northern edge of the tribal wilderness is at Hellroaring Pass (N47˚41’ W113˚58’) and the southern edge is at Lower Jocko Lake (N47˚12’ W113˚46’). Alpine areas are at Goat Peak (N47˚36’ W113˚59’) in the north and at Gray Wolf Peak in the south. Access to the tribal wilderness is by permit only. The tribal wilderness is closed when grizzlies congregate.

Rattlesnake Wilderness, Rattlesnake National Recreation Area, Lolo NF, Montana, is 28,000 acres and includes the northern reaches of the Rattlesnake Creek watershed. Features are Boulder Lake (N47˚4’ W113˚50’), Grant Creek Basin (N47˚3’ W113˚58’) and Farmers Lakes (47˚0’ W113˚54’) areas.

In western Montana, Cabinet Mountains Wilderness, Kaniksu and Kootenai NFs, Montana, is 94,300 acres in a range of glaciated peaks named for rock formations that look` like boxes or cabinets. There are groves of huge cedars and 94 miles of trails. Snowshoe Peak (N48˚13’ W115˚41’) at 8,736 feet, is the highest point. The wilderness extends 35 miles from north to south, with Grambauer Mountain dominating the north (N48˚24’ W115˚45’) and Goat Peak dominating the south (N48˚0’ W115˚36’). Falls Creek Scenic/Geologic Area (N48˚25’ W115˚47’) includes high falls visible from U.S. Route 2 at the northwestern edge of the wilderness. The northern Cabinets through-hike crosses the wilderness for 31 miles, beginning on U.S. Route 2 west of Libby (N48˚25’ W115˚40’) and extending past Upper Cedar Lake, Minor Lake, Sky Lake, and North Fork Bull River to a trailhead on the Bull River (N48˚13’ W115˚48’).  There is an off-trail section along Pine Ridge south of Sky Lake (Howe 2013). The Bull River tributaries North Fork (N48˚14’ W115˚46’), Middle Fork (N48˚13’ W115˚46’), East Fork (N48˚7’ W115˚44’), and North Fork of the East Fork (N48˚8’ W115˚42’) are eligible for the wild and scenic river system.

Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, Bitterroot, Clearwater, and Nez Perce, NFs, is to the south in Idaho and Montana. Bitterroot NF accesses include Fales Flat (N45˚45’ W114˚27’) and Sam T. Billings-Boulder Creek (N45˚50’ W114˚15’), both on the West Fork Bitterroot River. Boulder Creek Falls (N45˚52’ W114˚18’) in the wilderness is nine miles from the Sam T. Billings Campground. St. Marys Peak (N46˚31’ W114˚15’) is accessible via a 4.5-mile trail which starts at the end of Forest Road 739 west of Stevensville, Montana. The Blodgett Fire Important Bird Area (IBA) (N46˚17’ W114˚16’) is along Blodgett Creek west of Hamilton. In 2000, a stand replacement fire burned through the area between Canyon Creek and Sheafman Creek, creating standing dead trees which now house a concentration of Lewis’s woodpeckers. Colt Killed Creek is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its confluence with the Lochsa River (N46˚30’ W114˚41’) upstream to its headwaters at White Sand Lake in the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness (N46˚27’ W114˚25’). West Fork Gedney Creek in the wilderness up to its headwaters at Cove Lakes (N46˚9’ W115˚14’) is eligible for the national wild and scenic rivers system. Running Creek is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its confluence with the Selway River at Running Creek Ranch in the wilderness (N45˚55’ W114˚50’) upstream to Running Lake (N45˚55’ W115˚3’) in the Nez Perce National Forest. Moose Creek (N46˚7’ W114˚56’) and its tributaries East Fork Moose from its confluence with Moose Creek (N46˚10’ W114˚56’) to its headwaters at Lost Horse  Pass (N46˚11’ W114˚30’), North Fork Moose from its confluence with Moose Creek to its headwaters (N46˚20’ W114˚51’), Rhoda Creek (N46˚14’ W115˚0’), Lone Creek (N46˚14’ W115˚10’), and West Moose Creek (N46˚19’ W115˚0’) are all eligible for the national wild and scenic rivers system.

Clearwater National Forest access to the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness is at Elk Summit (N46˚20’ W114˚39’), south of US Route 12 on Forest Highway 360, and Kookooskia Meadows, west of Forest Highway 360 on Forest Road 358. Wind Lakes Trail from Kokooskia Meadows is one of the more scenic short wilderness trails. The Grave Peak RNA (N46˚24’ W114˚43’) is a glacier-carved cirque basin with five lakes, barren rock, sedge meadows and early successional forest at the north-central wilderness boundary near Elk Summit. Downsteam on the Lochsa River along US Route 12, other wilderness access is at Split Creek (N46˚14’ W115˚25’), Wilderness Gateway (N46˚20’ W115˚19’), Eagle Mountain (N46˚26’ W115˚8’), Mocus Point (N46˚28’ W115˚1’), and Warm Springs (N46˚28’ W114˚53’), where trails head south into the wilderness.

In the Selkirk Mountains of Washington, Salmo Priest Wilderness, Kaniksu and Colville NFs, is an inverted U-shaped area centered on 6,828-foot Salmo Mountain (N48˚58’ W117˚6’) at the northeastern corner of Washington. It contains the largest old growth forest in eastern Washington. Forests are of western red cedar, western hemlock, and Douglas-fir. Round Top Mountain RNA (N48˚49’ W117˚7’) is an area of green fescue subalpine parklands, old growth subalpine fir, and whitebark pine Krummholz on a 6,000-foot mountain. Salmo RNA (N48˚58’ W117˚5’) is a north-facing slope with a subalpine fir-Cascades azalea-fools huckleberry plant association. The Shedroof Divide National Recreation Trail extends 22 miles along the ridge in the eastern portion of the wilderness. The Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail crosses the wilderness at Shedroof Mountain and Crowell Ridge. Within the wilderness the South Salmo River (N48˚59’ W117˚5’) is considered eligible for the national wild and scenic river system.

National Wildlife Refuge (NWR) system in the North Central Rockies forests

In the Flathead Lake area, Batavia Waterfowl Production Area (WPA), Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N48˚10’ W114˚25’) is a 510-acre wetland area on US Route 2 along Ashley Creek west of Kalispell. Creston National Fish Hatchery, Montana (N48˚12’ W114˚6’), provides rainbow trout for fish stocking and mitigation for the Hungry Horse Reservoir. There is a nature trail on the hatchery grounds, which are off State Route 35 east of Kalispell. Lazy N Ranch WPA (Flathead WPA), Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N48˚5’ W114˚10’) contains 2,000 acres and seven miles of lakeshore on Flathead Lake off of State Route 82. It is an IBA for waterfowl and grassland species. Trust for Public Land WPA, Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N48˚7’ W114˚12’) is southeast of the junction of Somers Road and Wiley Dike Road in the Flathead River delta.

In the Swan Valley, Swan River NWR, Montana (N47˚55’ W113˚51’), is 1,500 acres along State Route 83 south of Swan Lake and contains sloughs in floodplains.  Species protected include yellow perch, marsh wren, and grizzly bear. Swan Valley Conservation Area, Montana, extends south from Swan River NWR  to Pierce Lake (N47˚23’ W113˚38’) and is a conservation easement refuge with up to 10,000 acres of easements and 1,000 acres of fee title land. It is considered the last low elevation coniferous ecosystem in the area and is noted for breeding common loons, grizzly bear, wolf, and wolverine.

Along the Blackfoot Valley east of Missoula, Blackfoot Valley Conservation Area is a conservation easement area of up to 103,000 acres including wetland complexes along State Route 200 from Bonner (N46˚52’ W113˚52’) east over 100 miles to Rogers Pass (N47˚5’ W112˚22’). It also extends along Route 141 in the Nevada Creek watershed (N46˚42’ W112˚40’), and Route 83 in the Clearwater River valley (N47˚23’ W113˚38’). Rogers Pass and the Clearwater River valley are in the North Central Rockies forest ecoregion. Upsata Lake Waterfowl Production Area, Montana (N47˚4’ W113˚14’) is a wetland and grassland area of kettle lakes left by a glacier at the south end of the Swan Range.

To the west in the Salish Mountains, Lost Trail NWR, Montana (N48˚11’ W114˚52’) is located on Pleasant Valley Road northwest of Marion and consists of 8,000 acres.  The refuge was established for waterfowl, upland birds, and raptors. McGregor Meadows WPA, Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N48˚2’ W114˚47’) is an extensive meadow on the east side of McGregor Lake along US Route 2. Smith Lake WPA, Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N48˚6’ W114˚27’) is 985 acres on US 2 west of Kalispell within an extensive wetland area in the Smith Valley.

Along the Clearwater River, Dworshak National Fish Hatchery, Idaho (N46˚30’ W116˚19’), is the largest steelhead trout hatchery in the world. Spawning of steelhead trout, Chinnok salmon, and Coho salmon may be viewed in season. It is accessed from State Route 7 north of Orofino. Kooskia National Fish Hatchery, operated by the Nez Perce Tribe of Idaho (N46˚8’ W115˚57’), is on Clear Creek east of Kooskia and is operated to support the Chinook salmon fishery on the Clearwater River. It is the site of Looking Glass’ 1877 Campsite, a site of the Nez Perce National Historical Park.

In northern Idaho, Kootenai NWR, Idaho (N48˚43’ W116˚24’) is 2,800 acres west of Bonners Ferry on a bend of the Kootenai River. This is the largest complex of wetlands and floodplain forests in Idaho. Trails and an auto tour route pass by ponds used by 10,000 ducks, geese, and swans. The area is designated an IBA.  Libby Dam altered natural flooding due to June snowmelt, so the refuge is managed to mimic natural water cycles.

In northeastern Washington, Little Pend Oreille NWR, Washington (N48˚28’ W117˚44’) is 41,500 acres of mixed conifer forest providing late successional forest habitat and riparian habitat. Hiking is available on the Mill Butte Trail and through a boardwalk at McDowell Marsh. There is also an auto tour route. The Baird Basin RNA (N48˚28’ W117˚38’) provides examples of larch-Douglas fir-ponderosa pine cover types, and the Varline Grove-Flodelle Creek RNA (N48˚32’ W117˚34’) was established for research on lodgepole pine cover type. Crystal Falls (N48˚31’ W117˚39’) is on State Route 20 east of Colville. The Cusick Flats Unit of Little Pend Oreille NWR (N48˚23’ W117˚20’) is 254 acres in the Pend Oreille River floodplain at the mouth of Tacoma and Trimble Creeks off State Route 20. The Kaniksu Unit of Little Pend Oreille NWR (N48˚8’ W117˚33’) is a floodplain area and wetland upstream from Deer Lake off US Route 395.

Other federal sites in the North Central Rockies forests

Boundary-Smith Creek Wildlife Management Area, Idaho (N48˚59’ W116˚33’), is on the international boundary at the north end of Westside Road in the Kootenai River valley is an IBA for ruffed grouse, waterfowl, and shorebirds. It was purchased with state and Bonneville Power Administration funds.

Ear Mountain, Bureau of Land Mangement (BLM) Lewiston Field Office and Lewis and Clark NF, Montana (N47˚52’ W112˚39’), is a natural area and two-mile trail on the Rocky Mountain front in the Teton River area.  It is accessed from Forest Road 109 west of Chouteau.

Elkhorn Area of Critical Environmental Concern (ACEC) includes areas surrounding the Helena NF south of Helena, including areas between Radersburg and Boulder (N46˚12’ W111˚53’) and northeast of Boulder (N46˚20’ W112˚0’). It is an elk herd area and protects cultural resource sites.

Hideaway Islands Research Natural Area, BLM, Idaho (N48˚42’ W116˚13’), provides 75 acres of waterfowl habitat on the Kootenai River five miles east of Bonner’s Ferry.

Humbug Spires ACEC and Special Recreation Management Area (SRMA), BLM, Montana (N45˚45’ W112˚39’), is 8,000 acres accessible from the Moose Creek Exit (Exit 99) on I-15. The rolling foothills contains an outcropping of quartz monocyte. Spires rise from 300 to 600 feet above the mountains. The main trail leads to The Wedge.

Marysville Historic Site, BLM, Montana (N46˚45’ W112˚18’) is a former gold mining town northwest of Helena near the Continental Divide.

Pipestone SRMA and Ringing Rocks ACEC, BLM, Montana (N45˚57’ W112˚14’) are along I-90 at exit 241. It is a hiking and off-highway vehicle (OHV) area, with unique geologic features.  There are 75 miles of OHV trails. At Ringing Rocks, the rocks chime when tapped with a hammer. The area adjoins the Deerlodge NF.

Sheep Mountain SRMA and Clancy OHV Area, BLM Butte Field Office, Montana (N46˚30’ W112˚2’) is south of Helena.

Wolf Lodge Bay, Beauty Bay, and Blue Creek Bay, BLM, Idaho (N47˚37’ W116˚41’) are forested shorelines along Lake Coeur d’Alene providing a large concentration of wintering waterfowl and bald eagles, making it an IBA.

References

Websites: wilderness.net, rivers.gov, fws.gov,and http://web4.audubon.org/bird/iba/

Howe, Steve.  2013.  Hidden Montana.  Backpacker, August 2013, pp. 75-81.

 

National Trail System in North Central Rockies Forests

The National Trail System in the North Central Rockies forests include three national scenic trails (NSTs) and two national historic trails (NHTs). There are 45 National Recreation Trails.

The Continental Divide NST traverses the North Central Rockies forests with sections maintained by the Deerlodge National Forest (NF), Helena NF, Lewis and Clark NF, Blackfeet Indian Reservation (N48˚7’ W113˚15’), and Glacier NP. Key sites in the Deerlodge NF are Pipestone Pass south of Butte (N45˚51’ W112˚26’), Homestake Exit on I-90 (N45˚55’ W112˚25’), Our Lady of the Rockies (N46˚0’ W112˚27’), Konda Trailhead off of I-15 on Forest Road 9422 (N46˚7’ W112˚29’), Champion Pass (N46˚14’ W112˚35’), and Thunderbolt Mountain (N46˚20’ W112˚27’).  In the Helena NF are MacDonald Pass on US 12 (N46˚33’ W112˚19’), Priest Pass (N46˚37’ W112˚18’), Rogers Pass on State Route 200 (N47˚5’ W112˚22’), Lewis and Clark Pass (N47˚9’ W112˚26’), and The trail continues north into the Scapegoat Wilderness (see), then briefly exits the wilderness at South Fork Sun River in the Lewis and Clark NF (N47˚30’ W112˚54’). It then enters the Bob Marshall Wilderness (see) and exits at Badger Pass (N48˚8’ W113˚3’) and Muskrat Pass (N48˚9’ W113˚6’).  Heading north in the Lewis and Clark NF, it passes North Badger Creek (N48˚15’ W113˚8’) and enters Glacier NP at Marias Pass on US Route 2 (N48˚19’ W113˚21’). Heading north in Glacier NP, the trail passes Railroad Creek (N48˚24’ W113˚17’) and enters the Blackfeet Indian Reservation at East Glacier (N48˚27’ W113˚15’). The trail returns to Glacier NP and passes Two Medicine Lake (N48˚29’ W113˚21’), Pitamaken Pass (N48˚31’ W113˚37’), Triple Divide Peak (N48˚34’ W113˚31’), Virginia Falls (N48˚40’ W113˚37’), Granite Park Chalet (N48˚46’ W113˚46’), and Fifty Mountain (N48˚51’ W113˚52’), before ending at Waterton Lake (N49˚0’ W113˚54’).

The Lewis and Clark NHT sites in the North Central Rockies forests at Lolo Pass, Lolo Trail, Weippe Prairie, Canoe Camp, and Lewis and Clark Long Camp are described under the Nez Perce National Historical Park. One trail site not part of the park is Lewis and Clark Pass, Helena National Forest, Montana (N47˚9’ W112˚26’), which was crossed by the Lewis party (not the Clark party, which crossed at a different pass) on the return trip from Oregon.  The pass is on a trail following a short cut from Travelers Rest to Great Falls which follows the Blackfoot River.  It is reached by taking Forest Highway 293 north to Alice Creek station, then a one-mile hike along the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail.

Nez Perce NHT, Idaho and Montana, includes sites associated with the flight of the Nez Perce from Idaho. In the North Central Rockies forests are Dunwell’s Ferry (N46˚24’ W116˚11’), Weippe (described under Nez Perce National Historical Park (NPNHP), Heart of the Monster (described under NPNHP), Southern Nez Perce Trail at Stites (N46˚5′ W115˚59’), Clearwater Battlefield and Kooskia Attack (N46˚8’ W115˚59’), the attack on Chief Looking Glass’s Camp (described under NPNHP), Powell Ranger Station—a traditional fishing spot in Clearwater NF(N46˚51’ W114˚43’), Packer Meadows for camas gathering in Clearwater NF (N46˚38’ W114˚33’), Lolo Hot Springs (N46˚44’ W114˚32’), and Fort Fizzle in Lolo NF (N46˚45’ W114˚10’), where the army failed to stop the tribe when they went around a barricade.

Pacific Northwest NST (PNT) passes through Glacier NP, Flathead National Wild and Scenic River, Flathead NF, Kootenai NF, Lake Kookanusa, Kaniksu NF, and Colville NF in the North Central Rockies forests ecoregion. The current route is mapped at the Pacific Northwest Trail Association website (www.pnt.org). The Glacier National Park segment was designated as a National Recreation Trail (NRT).  From east to west, this segment passes Waterton Lake (48˚59’ W113˚54’), Brown Pass (48˚53’ W113˚52’), and Kintla Lake (N48˚57’ W114˚20’). In the Flathead NF, the trail passes Thoma Lookout (N48˚57’ W114˚33’) and Tuchuck Mountain (N48˚58’ W114˚40’).

In the Kootenai NF, the PNT passes Weasel Meadow (N48˚59’ W114˚43’), Mount Wam (N48˚57’ W114˚49’), Poorman Mountain (N48˚59’ W114˚55’), Bluebird Basin (N48˚57’ W114˚56’), and Mount Barnaby (N48˚55’ W114˚56’), then descends to the town of Eureka and Lake Kookanoosa (N48˚54’ W115˚10’). West of Lake Kookanoosa, the trail climbs Webb Mountain and passes Thirsty Mountain (N48˚49’ W115˚23’), Purcell Summit, Mount Henry (N48˚53’ W115˚31’), Fish Lakes (N48˚52’ W115˚35’), Yaak River (N48˚54’ W115˚40’), Garver Mountain (N48˚56’ 115˚48’), Pete Creek Meadows (N48˚58’ W115˚50’), and Northwest Peak (N48˚58’ W115˚58’).

In the Kaniksu NF, the PNT passes Canuck Peak (N48˚56’ W116˚1’), enters Idaho near Canuck Pass, Ruby Ridge (N48˚55’ W116˚6’), Moyie River (N48˚55’ W116˚11’), Bussard Mountain (N48˚54’ W116˚14’), and Brush Lake (N48˚54’ W116˚20’), then crosses the Kootenai River (N48˚54’ W116˚24’).

West of the Kootenai River, the PNT climbs to Parker Peak (N48˚52’ W116˚35’)on the Selkirk Crest and continues across Long Mountain (N48˚50’ W116˚37’) and Pyramid Pass (N48˚49’ W116˚37’), then descends to Lion Creek (N48˚46’ W116˚41’) before leaving the national forest. The trail crosses Lookout Mountain (N48˚46’ W116˚46’) on Idaho state lands, then reenters the national forest at Upper Priest Lake (N48˚47’ W116˚53’) before entering Washington and the Salmo Priest Wilderness, where the trail passes Shedroof Mountain (N48˚56’ W117˚3’) and Crowell Ridge (N48˚54’ W117˚11’).

In the Colville NF, the PNT passes Boundary Dam at Metaline Falls (N48˚51’ W117˚22’), Beaver Mountain, and Abercrombie Mountain (N48˚55’ W117˚27’), before dropping into Northport on the Columbia River (N48˚55’ W117˚47’). The trail reenters the Colville NF and passes Elbow Lake (N48˚57’ W117˚59’) and Pierre Creek before exiting the North Central Rockies ecoregion at the Kettle River (N48˚55’ W118˚12’).

The Trans-Canada Trail is a national trail effort across Canada. In the North Central Rockies forests, the trail has been completed across British Columbia, mostly using old railroad lines. From west to east, the trail passes Paulson (N49˚12’ W118˚7’), Castlegar (N49˚19’ W117˚40’), Trail (N49˚6’ W117˚43’), Salmo (N49˚11’ W117˚11’), Nelson (N49˚29’ W117˚16’), Gray Creek Pass (N49˚37’ W116˚39’), Kimberley (N49˚39’ W115˚58’), Cranbrook (N49˚32’ W115˚45’), Elko (N49˚18’ W115˚7’), Fernie (N49˚31’ W115˚4’), and Sparwood (N49˚44’ W114˚54’) before passing into Alberta at the Upper Elk River area (N50˚1’ W114˚55’). The 25-mile section from Kimberley to Cranbrook is known as the North Star Rails to Trail.

National Recreation Trails

Through the efforts of the Forest Service, numerous national recreation trails (NRTs) have been designated in the national forest lands of the northern Rockies ecosystem. There is also a trail managed by the Bureau of Land Mangement. The following list is by mountain range.

Along the Continental Divide

In the easternmost ranges along the Continental Divide, Haystack Mountain NRT, Deerlodge NF, Montana (N46˚9’ W112˚20’) begins at the end of Forest Road 1538 four miles north of the Elk Park Exit on I-15. The 3.6-mile trail provides views of the Boulder River Valley. Mount Helena Ridge NRT, Helena NF, Montana (N46˚35’ W112˚4’) is a six-mile trail that begins in Mount Helena City Park and ends at Park City Trailhead in Helena NF.

In the Whitefish and Salish Ranges and Southward Extensions

In the Whitefish Range, Danny On Memorial NRT, Flathead NF, Montana (N48˚29’ W114˚21’) is located at Big Mountain Ski Resort north of Whitefish off of US Route 93. The trail leads four miles from the base of the chairlift to the summit of Big Mountain, where there is an environmental education center. Hikers can ride to the summit and hike down, or plan a route with loops involving other trails. Ralph L. Thayer Memorial NRT, Flathead NF, Montana, follows the crest of the Whitefish Range for 17 miles, providing views of the Flathead Valley and Glacier NP.  The south trailhead is at Werner Peak (N48˚35’ W114˚26’) and the north trailhead is at Red Meadow Lake (N48˚45’ W114˚36’). Whitefish Divide/Smoky Range NRT, Flathead NF, Montana, follows the crest of the Smoky Range for 11 miles, beginning on Forest Road 316 (Canyon Creek Road ) (N48˚31’ W114˚19’) and ending at Forest Road 803 (N48˚34’ W114˚13’). Both forest roads intersect North Fork Road north of Columbia Falls.

In the Swan Range, Holland Falls NRT, Flathead NF, Montana (N47˚27’ W113˚35’) is a 1.5-mile, 750-foot climb to a waterfall. It begins on Forest Road 44 at Holland Lake, east of State Route 83 and north of Seeley Lake. Morrell Falls NRT, Lolo NF, Montana (N47˚18’ W113˚28’), is a 2.5-mile trail north of Seeley Lake on Forest Road 4353.

In the Salish Range, Blacktail-Wild Bill NRT, Flathead NF, Montana, is west of Lakeside (US Route 93) on Flathead Lake. It begins off of Forest Road 917 near Blacktail Mountain (N47˚59’ W114˚22’) and ends along Wild Bill Creek on Forest Road 213 (N48˚2’ W114˚26’). It is 12 miles in length.

In the Garnet Range, Garnet Winter NRT, BLM, Montana, is a snowmobile route following existing roads closed in winter, extending from Greenough on State Route 200 (N46˚55’ W113˚26’) south to near Garnet Ghost Town, with 30 miles of trails.

In the Purcell Mountains and Southward Extensions

In the Purcell Mountains, Little North Fork NRT, Kootenai NF, Montana (N48˚45’ W115˚22’) is a one-fourth-mile trail to a 50-foot water fall in a rainforest gorge on the west side of Lake Koocanusa. Pulpit Mountain NRT, Kootenai NF, Montana (N48˚32’ W115˚47’) is a five-mile trail in the Purcell Mountains accessed seven miles east of Troy off of a Forest Service road. Skyline NRT, Kootenai NF, Montana extends 22 miles in the Purcell Mountains from the West Fork Quartz Creek trailhead (N48˚29’ W115˚39’) to the junction of Yaak River and Seventeen Mile Roads (N48˚41’ W115˚50’), passing Quartz Mountain, Skyline Mountain, and Arbo Mountain. Vinal Creek Trail #9/Purcell Summit NRT, Kootenai NF, Montana (N48˚52’ W115˚35’) is a 25-mile trail that passes Turner Falls on the way to Mount Henry lookout tower.

In the Cabinet Mountains, Baldy Lookout-Lake Trail, Lolo NF (N47˚37’ W114˚50’), is north of Plains, Montana off of Forest Highway 1025; this three-mile trail passes Baldy Mountain and ends at Baldy Lake.

In the Coeur d’Alene Mountains, Caribou Ridge NRT, Coeur d’Alene NF, Idaho (N47˚36’ W116˚40’) extends from a trailhead on Forest Road 438 off of State Route 97 to Mount Coeur d’Alene. The five-mile trail gains 1,100 feet in elevation. Nearby, Mineral Ridge NRT, BLM, Idaho, is a three-mile nature trail located three miles south of I-90 on State Route 97. Mineral Ridge overlooks Lake Coeur d’Alene; the trail connects Beauty Bay on Lake Coeur d’Alene with Forest Road 1575 in the Coeur d’Alene National Forest.

North of I-90, English Point NRT, Coeur d’Alene NF, Idaho (N47˚47’ W116˚’) is on Hayden Lake just north of Coeur d’Alene and includes two loops for a total of six miles. Chilco Mountain NRT, Coeur d’Alene and Kaniksu NFs, Idaho (N47˚54’ W116˚31’) is reached via US Route 95 and Bunco Road (Forest Road 332). It follows the ridgetop of Chilco Mountain for six miles. Coeur d’Alene River NRT, Coeur d’Alene NF, Idaho (southeast end N47˚53’ W116˚8’ and northwest end N47˚58’ W116˚13’) follows the North Fork Coeur d’Alene River past Cathedral Rocks for 15 miles. Independence Creek NRT, Coeur d’Alene NF, Idaho, is 13 miles, extending from the confluence of Independence Creek with Teepee Creek on Forest Highway 6310 (N47˚53’ W116˚13’) west to Weber Saddle on Forest Road 322 (N47˚54’ W116˚25’) southeast of Lakeview. Jackass Ridge Snowmobile NRT, Coeur d’Alene NF, Idaho, is a complex of trails on forest roads extending for 31 miles between Kellogg (N47˚34’ W116˚4’), Osburn, Twomile Saddle, and Dobson Pass (N47˚32’ W115˚53’). Trout Creek Loop NRT, Coeur d’Alene and Kaniksu NFs, Idaho-Montana, is 22 miles, beginning west of Trout Creek on Forest Road 214 (N47˚48’ W115˚43’) and climbing to a cirque at the state line at Ninety Three Mile Lake (N47˚46’ W115˚50’) in the Coeur d’Alene Mountains, before looping back to the trailhead. The Coeur d’Alene Mountains continue east into Montana. Iron Mountain-Cascade Falls NRT, Lolo NF, Montana (N47˚18’ W114˚49’), is a one-mile trail is at Cascade Campground on State Route 135 (St. Regis-Paradise National Scenic Byway).  The Iron Mountain Trail continues southward after the falls.

In the St. Joe Mountains, Big Creek NRTs, St. Joe NF, Idaho (N47˚21’ W116˚7’) are 16 miles of interconnected trails between the St. Joe River and the Coeur d’Alene divide. Trails include Big Creek, East Fork Big Creek, Cabin Ridge, Daugherty Hill, Bronson Meadows, Elsie Peak, the Coeur d’Alene Divide, and Wallace St. Joe Divide.  Trailheads are along Forest Highway 537 and Forest Road 1970, both north of the St. Joe River (Forest Highway 50). Nelson Ridge NRT, St. Joe NF, Idaho, extends nine miles from Forest Highway 50 just east of Avery on the St. Joe River (N47˚15’ W115˚47’) to Squaw Creek on the North Fork St. Joe River.

In the Palouse Corridor of the Clearwater Mountains, administered by the Nez Perce-Clearwater forest supervisor, White Pine NRT, St. Joe NF, Idaho (N47˚1’ W116˚40’) is on the White Pine Scenic Byway (State Route 6) east of Potlatch. South of the town of Elk River, Elk Creek Falls NRT, St. Joe NF, Idaho (N46˚44’ W116˚10’) is off of State Route 8 and Forest Road 1452B. A two-mile trail leads to three falls which drop a total of 140’ into a canyon with columnar basalt formations. Idaho Giant Cedar NRT, St. Joe NF, Idaho (N46˚53’ W116˚7’) is one-half mile long and is reached from Forest Highway 382 and Forest Road 4652 north of Elk River. The state champion giant cedar is 18’ in diameter.

In the Clearwater Mountains south of the St. Joe River, Marble Creek NRT, St. Joe NF, Idaho, is a trail system extending for 27 miles, beginning at Marble Creek (N47˚7’ W116˚5’) on Forest Highway 321 south of Forest Highway 50, and passing Delaney Creek, Grandmother Mountain, Mark Butte, Orphan Point, Breezy Point, and Lookout Mountain.

In the Lochsa River corridor along US Route 12 in the Clearwater Mountains, Colgate Licks Nature NRT, Clearwater NF, Idaho (N46˚28’ W114˚56’), extends for one mile on US 12 at Westover Campground, passing lodgepole and ponderosa pine forests and open meadows with warm springs. Lochsa River Historic NRT, Clearwater NF, Idaho, extends for 16 miles uphill and parallel to US 12 from Split Creek (N46˚14’ W115˚25’) upstream to Boulder Flat (N46˚20’ W115˚19’). Major Fenn NRT, Clearwater NF, Idaho (N46˚14’ W115˚29’), is a one-half mile nature trail at a picnic area on US Route 12 on the Lochsa River.

In the Selway River area of the Clearwater Mountains south of US Route 12, Anderson Butte NRT, Nez Perce NF, Idaho, is a 15-mile trail following ridgetops four miles east of Elk City beginning on Forest Road 1809 (N45˚51’ W115˚23’) and extending north to Forest Highway 443 (N45˚59’ W115˚25’) near Horse Ridge. The trail includes forest and open meadows. East Boyd-Glover Roundtop NRT, Nez Perce NF, Idaho, is 23 miles, beginning at the Boyd Campground (N46˚5’ W115˚27’) on the Selway River, climbing Roundtop (N46˚8’ W115˚23’), and descending to Glover Campground (N46˚4’ W115˚22’), also on the Selway River on Forest Road 223. Meadow Creek NRT, Nez Perce NF, Idaho, begins at a trailhead near Selway Falls (N46˚2’ W115˚17’); the trail follows Meadow Creek 15 miles south to the Meadow Creek Guard Station (N45˚33’ W115˚14’).

In the Bitterroot Mountains, Blue Mountain NRT, Lolo NF, Montana, is a nine-mile equestrian and hiking trail beginning just west of Missoula on US Routes 12-93 (N46˚50’ W114˚5’) and ending at Blue Mountain fire lookout (N46˚49’ W114˚11’). Also, the Blue Mountain Nature Trail NRT, Lolo NF, Montana, is a one-half mile trail at the same location. Skookum Butte NRT, Clearwater and Lolo NFs, Idaho and Montana (N46˚40’ W114˚23’), is a 1.7-mile hike along the Idaho-Montana line to overlooks of Lolo Creek and the Graves Range. It is accessed from Forest Highway 451 off of US Route 12 about 11 miles west of Lolo. Stateline NRT, Clearwater, Lolo and St. Joe NFs, Idaho-Montana is an 18-mile hike along the crest of the Bitterroots southwest of Superior, Montana.  Diamond Lake Campground (N47˚9’ W115˚10’), reached via Forest Roads 342 and 7843, provides one access. Other access points, all south of Superior on I-90, are Forest Highway 342 (N47˚9’ W115˚13’), Missoula Lake on Forest Highway 320 (N47˚4’ W115˚7’), and Hoodoo Pass on Forest Highway 250 (N46˚59’ W115˚2’). South of Missoula, Como Lake Loop NRT, Bitterroot NF, Montana (N46˚3’ W114˚16’) is a seven-mile loop trail in the Bitterroot National Forest west of US Route 93 north of Darby.

Selkirk Range

The Selkirk Range includes mountains in the northern Idaho Pandhandle and northeastern Washington. In Idaho, Chipmunk Rapids NRT, Kaniksu NF, Idaho (N48˚26’ W116˚55’) is off of State Route 57 south of Priest Rapids Lake. It is a 10-mile ski trail. Hanna Flats NRT, Idaho, is on Forest Road 313 west of the Priest Lake airstrip in Hanna Flats Botanical Area (N48˚34’ W116˚59’). The Hanna Flats NRT winds four miles among old growth western red cedar and rare ferns. Lakeshore NRT, Kaniksu NF, Idaho, follows the western shore of Priest Lake from Beaver Creek (N48˚44’ W116˚52’) south to Reeder Bay (N48˚39’ W116˚53’).  It passes near Bottle and Teepee Creek RNAs.

In the Washington portion of the Selkirk Range, Pass Creek-Grassy Top NRT, Colville and Kaniksu National Forests, Washington (N48˚48’ W117˚8’) follows the ridge south from Pass Creek Pass for eight miles to Grassy Top, which features meadows on a 6,000-foot mountain. It is accessed from Forest Road 22 from Sullivan Lake. Shedroof Divide NRT, Salmo Priest Wilderness and Colville NF, Washington extends along the ridge from Pass Creek Pass (N48˚48’ W117˚8’) north 22 miles to the Salmo Trailhead (N48˚57’ W117˚4’).Sullivan Lake NRT, Colville NF, Washington (N48˚49’ W117˚17’) is a four-mile trail on the eastern side of Sullivan Lake, connecting two campgrounds and offering bighorn sheep viewing opportunities.

To be continued with wild and scenic rivers, wilderness areas, and refuges

North Central Rockies Forests, Part D: forests, parks and reservoirs

The review of the national forest system of the North Central Rockies forests concludes with highlights of the Selkirk Range in Idaho and Washington. The areas described are the Colville NF, Kaniksu NF (one of the Idaho Panhandle national forests), and Priest River Experimental Forest. The post continues with a description of national park system areas and reservoirs in the North Central Rockies forests.

Colville NF, Washington, is 953,000 acres, including the mountains on both side of the Pend Oreille River in northeast Washington, along with the Selkirk Mountains and areas east of the Kettle River and Colville River in the North Central Rockies forests ecoregion. Vegetation in the wetter eastern portion of the forest is western red cedar and hemlock. The Forest also includes the Kettle River range to the west of the Kettle River in the Okanogan dry forests ecoregion. The forest is home to the Selkirk Mountain caribou herd. There are 367 miles of trail, including a segment of the Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail. Within the North Central Rockies ecoregion, the trail passes the Salmo Priest Wilderness, Shedroof Mountain, Crowell Ridge, Boundary Dam, Beaver Mountain, Abercrombie Mountain, and North Fork Silver Creek.

To the East of the Pend Oreille River, Bunchgrass Meadows Research Natural Area (RNA) (N48˚41’ W117˚11’) is a mountain meadow and bog on Forest Road 1935 east of Sullivan Lake Road east of Ione. The Mill Pond Flume area (N48˚51’ W117˚48’) provides trailheads to the south of the Salmo-Priest Wilderness. The Maitlen Creek Research Natural Area (N48˚46’ W117˚19’) is a 657-acre Douglas fir-western larch community along Sullivan Lake Road. Halliday Fen RNA (N48˚56’ W117˚17’) is a 724-acre marl fen with 13 rare plants. West of the Pend Oreille River, Abercrombie Trailhead (N48˚56’ W117˚29’) provides access to a 3.2-mile trail to a ridge with panoramic views of the area. It is accessible from Leadpoint on the west side of the Selkirk Range. On the Little Pend Oreille River is the Lake Thomas Trail (N48˚37’ W117˚32’). The forest includes three miles of the Kettle River near the British Columbia border which is considered eligible for the national wild and scenic river system.

Between the Columbia and Kettle River, a small section of the forest is in the Rossland Range extending south from Canada. Pierre Lake (N48˚54’ W118˚8’) is viewed from a lakeshore trail. The Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail passes through this section, passing Elbow Lake and Pierre Creek.

Kaniksu NF, mostly in Idaho but reaching into Montana and Washington, is 1.6 million acres, and is administered by the Idaho Panhandle, Kootenai, and Colville forest supervisors. The Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail crosses the forest, passing Canuck Peak, Ruby Ridge, Moyie River, Bussard Mountain, Brush Lake, Parker Peak, Long Mountain, Lion Creek, Upper Priest Lake, and Little Snowy Top.

In the Clark Geographic Area in Montana (administered as part of the Kootenai NF), the Bull River is a tributary from the right bank of the Clark Fork adjacent to State Route 56. On the South Fork of the Bull River, Berray Cedars Botanical Area (N48˚9’ W115˚48’) is a stand of large old western red cedars.  The East Fork Bull River Botanical Area (N48˚7’ W115˚45’) is an area where northern beech fern grows. The Bull River (N48˚4’ W115˚48’) and its tributaries North Fork (N48˚14’ W115˚46’), Middle Fork (N48˚13’ W115˚46’), East Fork (N48˚7’ W115˚44’), and North Fork of the East Fork (N48˚8’ W115˚42’) are eligible for the wild and scenic river system.

Rock Creek is a tributary to the right bank of Clark Fork below Noxon Dam.  At the headwaters of Rock Creek is Rock Creek Meadows Botanical Area (N48˚3’ W115˚39’), an area of meadows and wetlands. West of Noxon Rapids Reservoir on Marten Creek, Devil Gap Geological Area (N47˚54’ W115˚50’) is an area of cliffs, rock outcrops, and sparse vegetation. At the headwaters of Marten Creek, Ulm Peak RNA, Montana (N47-54, W115-57) is an area of mature mountain hemlock with steep rocky cliffs and two lakes on the Idaho state line.

The Vermilion River is a tributary to the upper end of Noxon Rapids Reservoir. The first 11 miles of the river are considered eligible for the national wild and scenic river system. The Vermilion Falls Recreational Area (N47˚53’ W115˚22’) is a series of falls on the scenic river. South of the river, the Seven Point Genetical RNA (N47˚49’ W115˚22’) is a 2,400-acre stand of whitebark pine. Seeds are collected for research on resistance to blister rust.

In the Lower Kootenai Geographic Area, administered as part of the Idaho Panhandle National Forests, Northwest Peak Scenic Area, Montana (N48˚57’ W115˚58’) is a 13,000-acre area of alpine lakes and open stands of cold-habitat trees in glaciated basins. Included are Rocky Candy Mountain in the Kootenai NF and Northwest Peak in the Kaniksu NF. Copper Falls Geological Area (N48˚58’ W116˚9’) is an 80-foot falls on a tributary to the Moyie River. An interpretive trail provides access from Forest Road 2517 off U.S. Route 95.

On Caribou Ridge, Three Ponds RNA, Idaho (N48˚39’ W116˚26’), is a glaciated basin with shallow ponds and sphagnum bogs within a western paper birch stand. It is southwest of Bonners Ferry. Also southwest of Bonners Ferry via County Roads 2, 13, and Forest Road 402 is Snow Creek Falls (N48˚40’ W116˚26’). In the Cabinet Mountains southeast of Bonners Ferry, Hunt Girl Creek RNA, Idaho (N48˚32’ W116˚10’), includes old growth western hemlock and western redcedar. Wet sedge meadows, fens, and streams are also present. Smith Creek RNA (N48˚52’ W116˚44’) in the Selkirk Crest is upstream of Smith Falls and includes marsh and sphagnum bogs with rare plants.

The Kootenai River (N48˚40’ W116˚6’) is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system where it flows through a canyon from the Montana-Idaho border downstream six miles. Long Canyon Creek is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its headwaters on the Selkirk Crest (N48˚47’ W116˚39’) to its confluence with the Kootenai River (N48˚57’ W116˚32’). Trail 16 follows the creek for most of its length, and the creek is lined with old growth western red cedar.

In the Pend Oreille Geographic Area (administered as part of the Idaho Panhandle NF), Scotchman No. 2 RNA, Idaho (N48˚13’ W116˚4’) is an area of rock cliffs, ledges, talus slopes, a glacial cirque, and forests of subalpine fir and Sitka alder on Scotchman Peak on the Montana border. Also in this geographic area, the Pack River is considered eligible for the wild and scenic river system from its headwaters  at Harrison Lake (N48˚41’ W116˚39’) 15 miles downstream to where it leaves the national forest (N48˚30’ W116˚36’). The river is designated critical habitat for the bull trout.  On Grouse Creek, a tributary to the Pack River, Grouse Creek Falls (N48˚28’ W116˚20’) is in a narrow gorge to the east of Colburn on Forest Road 280.

The Priest Geographic Area includes national forest lands in Idaho and Washington which drain to Priest Lake. The Upper Priest River drainage includes three special areas. Snowy Top RNA, Idaho (N48˚59’ W116˚59’) is a peak in the Selkirk Mountains on the US-Canada border. Near-alpine conditions support subalpine fir, green fescue, wet meadows, and rare plants. The Upper Priest River Botanical Area is 5,000 acres along a 15-mile stretch of the Upper Priest River, from the Canadian border (N49˚0’ W116˚57’) south to near Priest Lake (N48˚50’ W116˚57’). The area is an extensive moist old growth forest of cedar, hemlock, and grand fir. Trees are to ten feet in diameter. A trail follows the river, and the area also contains Upper Priest Falls. Just downstream, Upper Priest River RNA (N48˚49’ W116˚56’) includes the floodplain old growth forest along the Upper Priest and Hughes Fork Rivers above Upper Priest Lake. The RNA is set aside for the old growth and rare plants including northern beech fern. The Upper Priest River is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from the US-Canadian border to Priest Lake. Hughes Fork is also eligible from its headwaters (N48˚57’ W117˚1’) to the confluence with the Upper Priest River (N48˚49’ W116˚56’). Old growth cedar and a large meadow used by grizzly bears are along the stream.

On Priest Lake are three special areas. Upper Priest Lake Scenic Area (N48˚47’ W116˚56’), state of Idaho and Kaniksu NF, completely surrounds Upper Priest Lake and contains old growth red cedar. This area is an IBA for eagles, waterfowl, and passerines. Tepee Creek RNA, Idaho (N48˚43’ W116˚53’) is an area of old growth western white pine on the western side of Priest Lake. Bottle Lake RNA, Idaho (N48˚53’ W116˚53’) is a muskeg bog and vernal pond containing sphagnum and surrounded by western red cedar.  It is on the west side of Priest Lake.

North of Nordman, Forest Road 302 swings west into Washington. The Huff Lake Botanical Area, Washington (N48˚44’ W117˚4’) was set aside to protect several peatland and rare plant types. There is an overlook and boardwalk. Huff Lake is a glacial kettle adjacent to the North Fork Granite Creek. Continuing north on FR 302, Roosevelt Cedar Groves/Granite Falls Scenic Area, Washington (N48˚46’ W117˚4’) is also along the North Fork Granite Creek. This area contains two waterfalls, a small peatland, and old growth western red cedars from four to 12 feet in diameter.

Off of State Route 57 between Priest River and Nordman are five special areas.  Potholes RNA, Idaho (N48˚37’ W117˚1’) is an area of wetlands, springs, and marshes surrounded by western hemlock forests. The area drains into Kalispell Creek west of Priest Lake. On Forest Road 313 west of the Priest Lake airstrip is Hanna Flats Botanical Area (N48˚34’ W116˚59’). The Hanna Flats National Recreation Trail (NRT) winds among old growth western red cedar and rare ferns. To the west of Hanna Flats, Bath Creek Geological Area (N48˚35’ W117˚1’) is a 600-foot-deep outlet of a glacial lake. Binarch Creek RNA, Idaho (N48˚30’ W117˚1’), is an area of beaver ponds inhabited by westslope cutthroat trout, within grand fir and western red cedar forests. Kaniksu Marsh RNA, Idaho (N48˚27’ W116˚56’) is a wet meadow and marsh with sphagnum, sedges, and bog birch. It is adjacent to State Route 57 south of Priest Lake and includes part of the Chipmunk Rapids NRT.

In Washington along the Pend Oreille River is an area of the Kaniksu NF administered by the Colville NF. North of Newport, the Upper Wolf and Lower Wolf Trailheads (N48˚11’ W117˚3’) provide access to mountain biking and other trails on the north side of the city. The Pioneer Park Heritage Trail (N48˚12’ W117˚3’) is on the northeast side of the Pend Oreille River north of Newport and is an interpretive trail on the history of the Kalispel Tribe. An off-road vehicle area is accessed by the Batey-Bould Trailhead (N48˚22’ W117˚22’) west of Cusick. The 49˚North Ski Area (N48˚18’ W117˚37’) is also in the Kaniksu area.

Priest River Experimental Forest, Idaho (N48˚21’ W116˚50’), conducts research on regeneration and site preparation in a variety of forest types, including subalpine fir, grand fir, western hemlock, Douglas-fir, and western red cedar. Within the forest is Canyon Creek RNA (N48˚21’ W116˚45’), which includes western white pine and spruce-fir forest in the Selkirk Mountains northwest of Sandpoint. Wellner Cliffs RNA (N48˚22’ W116˚47’) contains dry cliffs of gneiss, schist and granite with western hemlock, western red cedar, and grand fir; there are riparian areas at the base of the cliffs.

National Park System units of Canada and the United States in the North Central Rockies forests include historical and natural features. The First Oil Well in Western Canada National Historic Site is described under Waterton Lakes National Park in the World Heritage Sites section. Glacier NP, Montana is described under World Heritage sites and national historic landmarks. Prince of Wales Hotel National Historic Site is described with Waterton Lakes NP in the World Heritage Sites section.

Nez Perce National Historical Park, Idaho-Montana-Oregon-Washington, commemorates the sites, stories, and artifacts of the Nez Perce Tribe. Sites in the northern Rocky Mountain forests include the following:

  • Asa Smith Mission, Idaho (N46˚13’ W116˚0’), was the site of an 1839 short-lived mission to the Nez Perce, commemorated because the missionaries wrote a dictionary and grammar of the Nez Perce language.
  • Canoe Camp, Idaho (N46˚30’ W116˚20’), at the confluence of the North Fork Clearwater and Clearwater, was where the Lewis and Clark expedition built canoes for travel to the Pacific Ocean in 1805. The site is four miles west of Orofino on US Route 12.
  • Heart of the Monster, Idaho (N46˚13’ W116˚0’), is the site of the Nez Perce origin story where Coyote defeated a monster and created the Nez Perce people. The site is on US Route 12 east of Kamiah
  • Lewis and Clark Long Camp (N46˚13’ W116˚0’) commemorates a four-week visit where Lewis and Clark camped among the Nez Perce on their return from Oregon in 1806.
  • Lolo Pass, Montana-Idaho (N46˚38’ W114˚35’), is the site of a visitor center on US Route 12
  • Lolo Trail (see description under National Historic landmarks) was used by the Nez Perce in their flight from US Army troops in 1877.
  • Looking Glass’ 1877 Campsite, Idaho (N46˚8’ W115˚57’) is at the Kooskia National Fish Hatchery.  Looking Glass’ band of the Nez Perce tried to remain neutral but was attacked by the Army and joined the other tribal members in the fight.
  • McBeth House, Idaho (N46˚14’ W116˚2’) was the home of Presbyterian missionaries to the Nez Perce in the late 19th century. The house in Kamiah is not open to the public.
  • Musselshell Meadow, Idaho(N46˚21’ W115˚45’) is a traditional camas root gathering area.
  • Pierce Courthouse, Idaho (N46˚ W115˚), commemorates an 1860 gold rush which resulted in the loss of Nez Perce land.
  • Weippe Prairie, Idaho (N46˚21’ W115˚55’) was where Lewis and Clark met the Nez Perce, and was a traditional root gathering area.

Lake Roosevelt National Recreation Area, Washington, which includes a strip of reservoir lands between elevations 1290 and 1310 along the Columbia River impounded by Grand Coulee Dam, extends into the North Central Rockies ecoregion between Marcus (N48˚40’ W118˚4’, river mile 708) and Little Dalles (N48˚52’ W117˚52’, river mile 729). This portion of the NRA provides camping and reservoir recreation in a gorge of the Columbia River accessed by State Route 25.

 Federal and federally licensed recreation lakes in the North-Central Rockies Forests include reservoirs managed by municipalities, public utilities, investor owned utilities, and the federal government. Most take advantage of the hydroelectric power opportunities in the mountainous region.

East of the Continental Divide are three reservoirs. Gibson Reservoir, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N47˚36’ W112˚46’), stores water from Sun River in the Lewis and Clark NF for irrigation west of Great Falls. Sun River Diversion Dam, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N47˚37’ W112˚42’), is three miles downstream from Gibson Dam and diverts water to the Pishkun Supply Canal for transport and storage at Pishkun Reservoir. Lake Sherburne, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N48˚50’ W113˚31’), is a 1,700-acre reservoir with the dam on the Blackfeet Indian Reservation and most of the reservoir within Glacier National Park at the Many Glacier area

The remaining dams are in the Columbia River basin. In the Snake River drainage is Dworshak Reservoir, USACE, Idaho, behind the highest straight-axis gravity dam in North America, at 717 feet, and occupying 54 miles of the North Fork Clearwater River (N46˚31’ W116˚18’). There are 30,000 acres of federal land above the normal pool. On the lower reservoir, there are four environmentally sensitive areas for ponderosa pine maintenance and restoration (Ahsahka Hillside (N46˚0’ W116˚17’), Freeman Creek Point (N46˚33’ W116˚17’), Little Bay (N46˚35’ W116˚15’), Cold Springs (N46˚37’ W116˚15’), and Dent Bridge (N46˚36’ W116˚11’).  Also in the lower reservoir are trails at the dam area (West Ridge and Merrys Bay), Big Eddy (N46˚33’ W116˚18’), Canyon Creek (N46˚33’ W116˚13’), and Cold Springs.  Ore Creek (N46˚37’ W116˚13’), Elk Creek (N46˚41’ W116˚14’), Homestead Creek (N46˚51’ W115˚54’), and Benton Butte (N46˚52’ W115˚48’) are environmentally sensitive areas managed for old growth western red cedar and grand fir. At the junction of the North Fork and Little North Fork Clearwater (N46˚50’ W115˚55’), lands are managed for elk habitat mitigation to replace the lost river bottom vegetation. Magnus Bay (N46˚39’ W115˚29’) is an environmentally sensitive wetland area. Craig Mountain near Lewiston in the Palouse prairie is also managed for elk habitat mitigation from the project. A 2008 Biological Opinion under the Endangered Species Act requires spring and summer water releases from Dworshak Dam to benefit steelhead and Chinook salmon.

On the main Columbia River is Franklin D. Roosevelt Lake (Grand Coulee Dam), Bureau of Reclamation, Washington-British Columbia. The north-central Rockies Forests ecoregion includes the upper reaches of this Columbia River reservoir, including areas around Northport, Washington. On the Spokane River is the Post Falls Project, Avista Utilities, Idaho (N47˚43’ W116˚57’). Parks along the reservoir are managed by the City of Post Falls and contain a hiking trail network.

On the Pend Oreille River and tributaries are eight dams. Boundary Dam and Reservoir, Seattle City Light,Washington (N48˚59’ W117˚21’) is on the Pend Oreille River along State Route 31. Pewee Falls drops 200 feet into the reservoir near the dam. A campground on the reservoir (N48˚56’ W117˚20”) is managed by the Bureau of Land Management. The dam supplies one third of Seattle’s power. Box Canyon Dam and Reservoir, Public Utility District No. 1 of Pend Oreille County, Washington (N48˚47’ W117˚25’) is on the Pend Oreille River north of Ione in the Colville NF. Further upstream in Idaho, Lake Pend Oreille, USACE, Idaho, is a natural lake in the Purcell Trench that has been raised by Albeni Falls Dam. Near the dam the lake is more riverine, and the original natural lake bed is east of Sandpoint. The dam and visitor center (N48˚11’ W117˚0’) are on US Route 2 just east of the Washington state line at Pend Oreille River mile 90.  Large volumes of woody debris flow down the Clark Fork River each spring, and a driftwood control facility is located at the confluence with the lake (N48˚8’ W116˚11’). Morton Slough Game Management Area (N48˚12’ W116˚41’), is an IBA for migrating diving ducks at river mile 105.

Upstream from Lake Pend Oreille is the Clark Fork River. Cabinet Gorge Dam and Reservoir, Avista Utilities, Montana (N48˚5’ W116˚4’), is a 263-MW facility on the Clark Fork River on Route 200 at the Idaho state line. Noxon Rapids Reservoir, Avista Utilities, Montana (N47˚58’ W115˚44’) is a 488-MW facility on the Clark Fork River on Route 200 in western Montana. Thompson Falls Dam, NorthWestern Energy, Montana (N47˚35’ W115˚21’), is a 94-MW facility on State Route 200 on the Clark Fork River Mile 208.

The Flathead River, a tributary to the Clark Fork, includes Kerr Dam in the Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands ecoregion and Hungry Horse Reservoir, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N48˚20’ W114˚1’) is west of Glacier National Park in the Flathead National Forest.  The 6,800-acre, 34-mile-long reservoir provides water recreation in a deep canyon of the South Fork Flathead River. Recreation facilities are managed by the Flathead National Forest.

In the Bitterroot River valley are two Bureau of Reclamation facilities. Como Reservoir, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N46˚3’ W114˚15’) stores irrigation water from Rock Creek in the Bitterroot NF. A seven-mile National Recreation Trail circles the lake and passes a waterfall. Rock Creek Diversion Dam, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N46˚4’ W114˚13’) diverts water to Bitter Root Feeder Canal for irrigation east of Hamilton, Montana.

On the Kootenai River and tributaries are two dams. Moyie Dam, City of Bonners Ferry, Idaho (N48˚44’ W116˚11’) is just above 85-foot Moyie Falls, off of U.S. Route 2 in northeastern Idaho. Koocanusa Lake, USACE, Montana-British Columbia, is 90 miles long.  Libby Dam (N48˚25’ W115˚19’) was constructed in the Kootenai Narrows to impound the reservoir. The upper end of the reservoir is in British Columbia near Cranbrook (N49˚27’ W115˚27’). The Kootenai NF in the US maintains recreation facilities. In BC, Kikomun Creek Provincial Park and Wardner Provincial Park are on the reservoir.  To mitigate for the loss of riverine habitat, the USACE funds the Murray Springs State Fish Hatchery (N48˚57’ W115˚9’), where trout are reared, in the Tobacco Plains area. The Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail is along the reservoir shoreline near Rexford.

to be continued

North Central Rockies Part C: National Forests of the Clearwater-Bitterroot Ranges

The Clearwater and Bitterroot Ranges are found along the Montana-Idaho border and include extensive wilderness areas. However, outside of the wildernesses are a number of special features, described in this post, Part C of the North Central Rockies ecoregion.

Bitterroot National Forest (NF), Idaho-Montana is 1.6 million acres on both sides of the north-south trending Bitterroot Valley. To the east of the valley are the Sapphire Mountains, described in the Idaho Batholith section of the South Central Rockies Forest ecoregion. To the west of the Valley are the Bitterroot Mountains, an area of steep rocky canyons and sawtooth ridges described here. Lick Creek Demonstration Forest (N46˚5’ W114˚15’) is north of Lake Como. A seven-mile scenic auto tour on Forest Road 5621 extends from Lake Como to Lost Horse Creek and interprets the forest, which has been managed to promote ponderosa pine health. Lost Horse Creek (N46˚8’ W114˚22’) and Blodgett Creek (N46˚17’ W114˚19’) are glaciated U-shaped valleys with streams considered eligible for the wild and scenic river system. Lost Horse Canyon contains three Research Natural Areas (RNAs). Lower Lost Horse Canyon RNA (N46˚7’ W114˚17’) is a glacially scoured, U-shaped valley off of the southern Bitterroot Valley with Douglas fir and subalpine fir. Upper Lost Horse Canyon RNA (N46˚8’ W114˚0’) is a subalpine forest on the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness boundary with Bailey Lake and a wetland area. Between these two RNAs are 12 or more south-facing avalanche slides making up the Bitterroot Mountain Snow Avalanche RNA (N46˚9’ W114˚26’). The non-forested snow slides are rich in herbaceous diversity. The Blodgett Fire Important Bird Area (IBA) (N46˚17’ W114˚16’) is along Blodgett Creek west of Hamilton. In 2000, a stand replacement fire burned through the area between Canyon Creek and Sheafman Creek, creating standing dead trees which now house a concentration of Lewis’s woodpeckers.

Trapper Peak Vista (N45˚56’ W114˚13’) is southwest of Darby on the West Fork Road, then right (north) on Forest Road 374, then south on Forest Road 5627. It provides views of the 10,000-foot peak. Bass Creek Overlook (N46˚35’ W114˚10’) is west of Stevensville at the end of Forest Road 1136 from Bass Creek Recreation Area, and provides views of the Bitterroot Valley. The Bear Creek Trailhead (N46˚23’ W114˚15’) is the starting point for a for a two mile hike to Bear Creek Falls; the trail continues into the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness. The Canyon Creek Trailhead (N46˚15’ W114˚15’) west of Hamilton is the starting point for a 1.5-milehike to the Blodgett Overlook, providing views of canyons and valleys. Camas Lake (N46˚9’ W114˚17’) is a 3.5-mile hike from the Camas Creek trailhead which branches off of Lost Horse Road south of Hamilton.

The Magruder Corridor (Forest Highway 468) extends west from the Bitterroot River (N45˚48’ W114˚16’) to Sabe Saddle (N45˚41’ W114˚57’) between the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness and the Selway Bitterroot Wilderness. The corridor then extends west through the Nez Perce NF to the Red River. From Fales Flat (N45˚45’ W114˚27’) on Forest Highway 468, a loop trail on the border of the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness can be hiked.  Overwich Falls (N45˚43’ W114˚5’) is accessible via an eight-mile hike beginning off of Forest Road 5706 east of Painted Rock Lakes.

Boulder Creek RNA (N45˚50’ W114˚16’) is upstream from a campground on the West Fork Bitterroot River and contains ponderosa pine-Douglas fir with cliffs, snow shutes, and talus slopes.

Clearwater NF, Idaho, is 1.7 million acres on the western side of the Bitterroot Range. The North Fork Clearwater Corridor of the forest is accessible from Orofino from the end of State Route 11 at the town of Headwaters. Forest Road 247 follows Beaver Creek into the area. The Little North Fork Clearwater River (N46˚55’ W115˚43’) is in a remote northwest corner of the forest on the border with the St. Joe National Forest and is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system. The North Fork Clearwater is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from Dworshak Reservoir (N46˚51’ W115˚41’) upstream to its headwaters on Graves Peak (N47˚0’ W115˚6’).  To the north of the North Fork is the Mallard Larkins Pioneer Area (N46˚56’ W115˚34’), St. Joe and Clearwater NFs, a 14,000-acre area on a ridge crest with glacial lakes, ancient cedars, and alpine vegetation. It is accessible from Isabella Point trailhead (N46˚53’ W115˚36’) on Forest Road 705 and Smith Ridge Trailhead (N46˚54’ W115˚41’) on Forest Route 700 north of the North Fork Clearwater River. Also in the area is the Heritage Cedar Grove Special Area (N46˚55’ W115˚35’), in the headwaters of Isabella Creek and Elmer Creek. Nearby At Isabella Landing, a seven-mile trail leads downriver to the Dworshak Reservoir amid old growth cedars. It passes Aquarius RNA (N46˚52’ W115˚40’), 4,000 acres with disjunct taxa along the North Fork Clearwater River just upstream of Dworshak Reservoir at Mile 55. Unique species and vegetation communities in the area include red alder, western red cedar/shield fern association, and Coeur d’Alene salamander. The Sheep Mountain off highway vehicle area (N46˚42’ W115˚38’) is reached from the end of Route 11 at the town of Headquarters via Forest Highway 246. Chateau Falls RNA (N46˚41’ W115˚31’) is a series of waterfalls along Chateau Creek, a tributary to the North Fork Clearwater River, with open grasslands, shrublands, and Douglas-fir forest. Five Lakes Butte RNA (N46˚57’ W115˚17’) is on the border between the Clearwater and St. Joe National Forests. It is a 300-acre subalpine glaciated basin with mountain hemlock and two fishless lakes.

At the Fourth of July Trailhead (N46˚40’ W115˚23’), the Windy Ridge Trail extends 24 miles southeast, connecting with the Lolo Trail (Forest Highway 500) at 12-Mile Saddle (N46˚31’ W115˚9’). This trail provides views of the Great Burn area of 1910. Upstream on the North Fork, trailheads in the Kelly Forks Area (N46˚43’ W115˚15’) explore the mountains to the east along Kelly Creek and Forest Highway 255, a loop off of Route 250. Kelly Creek from Kelly Forks upstream to the confluence of the Middle Fork Kelly (N46˚44’ W114˚52’) is eligible for the wild and scenic river system, as are South Fork Kelly, Middle Fork Kelly, and North Fork Kelly Creeks. Cayuse Creek is an eligible wild and scenic river from its confluence with Kelly Creek (N46˚43’ W115˚1’) upstream to its headwaters (N46˚37’ W114˚47’). As Forest Highway 250 approaches the Montana border, Forest Highway 295 extends eastward, providing a trailhead for the high elevation Fish Lake (N46˚49’ W115˚55’) on the Montana border.

The Lolo Trail area is a National Historic Landmark corridor through the forest, mostly defined by Forest Highway 500, although the original trail winds north and south of the modern road. The trail passes Lolo Creek Campground, Hungery Creek, Sherman Saddle, Indian Grave Peak, Indian Post Office, Papoose Saddle, and Packer Meadows in the Clearwater NF. Musselshell Meadows Special Area (N46˚21’ W115˚45’) is a traditional Indian camas root gathering area east of Weippe Prairie. Mussellshell Creek is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from Musselshell Meadows downstream to the confluence with Lolo Creek (N46˚19’ W115˚45’). Lolo Creek is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its headwaters on Hemlock Butte (N46˚28’ W115˚38’) downstream to the forest boundary (N46˚17’ W115˚45’). Bald Mountain RNA (N46˚27’ W115˚15’) is a green fescue bald on the Lolo Trail (Forest Highway 500), notable for white rhododendron at the southern limit of its range. Four Bit Creek RNA and Walde Mountain Botanical Area (N46˚17’ W115˚38’) are off the Lolo Trail (Forest Highway 500) along Eldorado Creek east of Weippe Prairie. These areas contain western redcedar and white pine forests. The Lewis and Clark Grove Special Area (N46˚18’ W115˚43’) is old growth redcedar on the Lewis and Clark route of the Lolo Trail along Forest Highway 520.

The Lochsa River corridor portion of the forest extends along both sides of US Route 12 between Kooskia and Lolo Pass. Much of this 100-mile section of US 12 is beside the Middle Fork Clearwater River and Lochsa River, designated segments of the wild and scenic river system. Lochsa RNA (N46˚14’ W115˚32’) is 1,500 acres on US Route 12 at Glade Creek and is notable for disjunct shrubs from Pacific coastal areas, including the Pacific dogwood. Fish Creek, a Lochsa tributary, is eligible for the wild and scenic river system from its confluence with the Lochsa (N46˚20’ W115˚21’) upstream to its headwaters at (N46˚22’ W115˚36’), and Hungery Creek is eligible from its confluence with Fish Creek (N46˚21’ W115˚24’) upstream to its headwaters (N46˚24’ W115˚34’). Hungery Creek is part of the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail route. Both streams are accessible by trails only.

At Wilderness Gateway (N46˚20’ W115˚19’), Sherman Creek Trail heads seven miles north to the Lolo Trail. Dutch Creek RNA (N46˚23’ W115˚14’) is along the Lochsa River near Ninemile Rest Area on U.S. Route 12 and contains stands of northwest paper birch and grand fir. The Colgate Elk Licks Special Area (N46˚28’ W114˚56’) includes a National Recreation Trail (see listing below). Warm Springs trailhead provides access to Jerry Johnson Hot Springs (N46˚28’ W114˚53’). Sneakfoot Meadows RNA (N46˚27’ W114˚39’) is 1,900 acres south of Powell Ranger Station on U.S. 12 and west of the road to Elk Summit and contains a wetland complex of marsh, bogs, and fir. Steep Lakes RNA (N46˚53’ W114˚57’) contains two lakes, one of which has no fish. There is old growth mountain hemlock in a glaciated area on the Montana-Idaho border of the Bitterroot Mountains. The 12-mile hike along the canyon of Colt Killed Creek (N46˚31’ W114˚41’), south of US 12 on Forest Highway 111 and 360 and Forest Road 359, is known for views of rushing water and steep terrain. Colt Killed Creek is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its confluence with the Lochsa River (N46˚30’ W114˚41’) upstream to its headwaters at White Sand Lake in the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness (N46˚27’ W114˚25’). To the east on US 12, the Devoto Grove Special Area (N46˚32’ W114˚40’) provides a walk through western red cedars up to 2,000 years old.  Finally, the Lolo Pass Visitor Center (N46˚38’ W114˚35’) provides year-round interpretation at the Montana-Idaho border.

Coeur d’Alene NF, Idaho, is administered as part of the Idaho Panhandle National Forests group and consists of 724,000 acres. On Forest Road 439 about five miles east of Lake Coeur d’Alene is Red Horse Mountain RNA (N47˚33’ W116˚39’), established for research on dry plant communities. The old growth ponderosa pine-bunchgrass forest is in near pristine condition. Other dry plant communities include grasslands and low shrubs. In this area, a short section of the Coeur d’Alene River at Rose Lake (N47˚32’ W116˚29’) through the forest downstream from Cataldo is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system.

The North Fork Coeur d’Alene River from its headwaters on Powder Mountain (N48˚0’ W116˚19’ to its confluence with the South Fork (N47˚33’ W116˚15’) is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system. Most of the river is followed by Forest Highways 9 and 208; however, some of the upper portion is roadless and the Coeur d’Alene NRT follows the river. Along the trail are Cathedral Rocks (N47˚56’ W116˚10’), a group of rock spires overlooking the river. East of the North Fork on West Fork Eagle Creek is the Settlers Grove of Ancient Cedars Botanical Area (N47˚43’ W115˚49’). It contains old growth western red cedar to seven feet in diameter and large western white pine. It is accessible from Prichard on the Coeur d’Alene River via Forest Highways 9 and 152 and Forest Road 805. There are three RNAs in the upper Coeur d’Alene River watershed. Pond Peak RNA (N47˚51’ W116˚3’) includes old growth mountain hemlock and a pond on a 6,000-foot peak in the Shoshone Range. Spion Kop RNA (N47˚53’ W116˚7’) includes northern black cottonwood on the floodplain of the North Fork Coeur d’Alene River. Upper Shoshone Creek RNA (N47˚55’ W116˚0’) is a forest of old growth western and mountain hemlock on Ulm Peak in the Bitterroot Range, accessed from Forest Highway 412.  There is a waterfall and spring on the site.

In the western part of the forest, the Little North Fork Coeur d’Alene River is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its headwaters on Honey Mountain (N47˚54’ W116˚30’) to the confluence with the North Fork Coeur d’Alene River (N47˚37’ W116˚14’). Forest Highway 209 follows the river for its entire length. Deception Creek Experimental Forest (described below) is along the Little North Fork.

The Lookout Pass Ski Area (N47˚27’ W115˚42’) is on I-90 at the Montana state line. Just north of Lookout Pass, the Mullan Road (N47˚28’ W115˚40’) was the first road across the northern Rockies, completed in 1860 across Mullan Pass. South of I-90 at Wallace, the Pulaski Tunnel Trail (N47˚27’ W115˚57’) is a two-mile one way hike to the mine adit where a firefighting crew took shelter during the Big Burn of 1910.

Coeur d’Alene Tree Nursery, Idaho (N47˚43’ W116˚49’) is north of Coeur d’Alene and supplies trees to public lands in the western U.S. There are 130 acres of irrigated seedbeds and 17 greenhouses.

Deception Creek Experimental Forest, Idaho (N47˚44’ W116˚30’) is on the Little North Fork Coeur d’Alene River in the Coeur d’Alene NF. Research on the western white pine forest type and management of coarse woody debris is the focus at this facility 32 km east of Coeur d’Alene. The Montford Creek RNA is located within the experimental forest and includes old growth western white pine.

Nez Perce NF, Idaho, is 2.2 million acres between the Salmon River and the Clearwater River in central Idaho. A southern tributary to the Clearwater is the Selway River, and its watershed is in the forest.  The Selway River Corridor extends east from US Route 12 at Lowell and includes Selway Falls (N46˚3’ W115˚18’). Forest Road 223 follows the river and provides access to trailheads for the Selway Bitterroot Wilderness. O’Hara Creek RNA (N46˚0’ W115˚31’) contains cascades and disjunct Pacific coast vegetation on a tributary of the Selway River. Upper Newsome Creek RNA (N46˚0’ W115˚40’) is on Forest Road 464 in the South Fork Clearwater watershed and contains old growth grand fir with Pacific yew. Gedney Creek upstream from its confluence with the Selway River (N46˚3’ W115˚19’) and its tributary West Fork Gedney Creek up to its headwaters at Cove Lakes (N46˚9’ W115˚14’) are eligible for the national wild and scenic river system. Meadow Creek is also eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its confluence with the Selway River (N46˚3’ W115˚18’) upstream to Mountain Meadows on the Magruder Corridor (N45˚42’ W115˚14’). Running Creek is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its confluence with the Selway River at Running Creek Ranch in the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness (N45˚55’ W114˚50’) upstream to Running Lake (N45˚55’ W115˚3’). Warm Springs Creek RNA (N45˚51’ W114˚56’) contains two warm springs at the southern limit of western red cedar and the eastern limit of western larch.  Forests also are dominated by Douglas-fir and grand fir.

The Highway 14 Corridor is along the South Fork Clearwater River downstream from Elk City. The scenic river canyon includes granite outcroppings and extensive wildflower viewing areas and is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from near Elk City (N45˚48’ W115˚29’) downstream to Kooskia (N46˚9’ W115˚59’). Johns Creek is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its confluence with the South Fork Clearwater (N45˚49’ W115˚53’) south to Baking Powder Mountain area (N45˚40’ W115˚46’) in the Gospel Hump Wilderness. Anderson Butte NRT is east of Elk City and Sourdough Saddle hiking area (N45˚44’ W115˚49’) is south of the South Fork Clearwater.

The Magruder Corridor begins near Elk City on the Red River (N45˚49’ W115˚29’). From the junction with State Route14, Forest Highway 57 extends further upstream to the Red River Ranger Station, then Forest Highway 468 traverses the boundary between the Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness and Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness to Sabe Saddle, where the corridor enters the Bitterroot NF. Bargamin Creek is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its headwaters near Three Prong Mountain on the Nez Perce National Forest (N45˚46’ W114˚56’) downstream to the confluence with the Salmon River (N45˚34’ W115˚12’) in the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness. Forest Highway 443 extends from Elk City (N45˚50’ W115˚26’) north to Selway Falls (N46˚3’ W115˚18’) on the Middle Fork Clearwater River.

St. Joe NF, Idaho, is 866,000 acres included administratively in Idaho Panhandle National Forests and the Clearwater NF. On Forest Highway 321 north of Clarkia are two special areas. Hobo Cedar Grove Botanical Area (N47˚5’ W116˚7’) is a 700-acre area containing ten-foot-diameter trees and is a National Natural Landmark. Nature trails lead through the area. Theriault Lake RNA (N47˚9’ W116˚2’) includes wet meadows and mountain hemlock old growth forests at the foot of Marble Mountain to the northeast of Clarkia. West of Clarkia on Forest Highway 447 is the 2,300-acre Emerald Creek Recreation Area (N47˚0’ W116˚22’). This is an area where the star garnet, the state gemstone of Idaho, is found. The only other location where star garnets are found is India. To avoid water quality concerns from stream disturbance, the Forest Service provides garnet-bearing gravels in which people can search for garnets.

On the North Fork of the St. Joe River north of Avery along County Road 456, the Route of the Hiawatha Rail Trail begins at Pearson (N47˚21’ W115˚44’) and extends 15 miles to East Portal, Montana (N47˚24’ W115˚38’).  The railroad made a broad loop to gain elevation to cross the pass between Montana and Idaho. The bicycle trail includes seven high tressels and the 1.6-mile St. Paul Pass Tunnel.

On Forest Highway 301 south of Avery are three special areas.  Sandhouse Cedar Grove Botanical Area (N47˚8’ W115˚53’) is at the junction of Forest Highways 301 and 201. It is a near-climax stand of western red cedar, with trees exceeding five feet in diameter in an open fern understory. In the same area to the east, Upper Fishhook RNA (N47˚7’ W115˚52’) contains old growth western red cedar on a granite substrate. Further south on Forest Highway 301, Fortynine Meadows RNA (N47˚6’ W115˚53’) is a high elevation peatland surrounded by a wet mountain hemlock forest.

Forest Highway 201 leads east from the Fishhook area on Forest Highway 301 to the Snow Peak Cooperative Wildlife Management Area (N47˚3’ W115˚33’). This is an area of checkerboard ownership between the state and federal governments, with 12,000 acres of state land and 20,000 acres of national forest ownership. The area is managed for mountain goat and other high elevation animal species; there are 40 miles of trail.

On the ridge separating the St. Joe River watershed from the Clearwater watershed are two special areas.  The Mallard Larkins Pioneer Area (N46˚56’ W115˚34’), St. Joe and Clearwater NFs, a 14,000-acre area on a ridge crest with glacial lakes, ancient cedars, and alpine vegetation. Five Lakes Butte RNA (N46˚57’ W115˚17’) is a 300-acre subalpine glaciated basin with mountain hemlock and two lakes, only one of which contains fish.

The forest includes the St. Joe River, which is a national wild and scenic river. The Little North Fork Clearwater River is considered eligible for the wild and scenic river system from its headwaters near Fish Lake (N47˚6’ W115˚58’) downstream to Dworshak Reservoir (N46˚53’ W115˚52’); the river is noted for roadless canyons and rapids and mature western cedar and hemlock groves. The Idaho Centennial Trail follows the eastern boundary of the forest along the ridge at the state line with Montana.

The Palouse corridor of the St. Joe NF is west of the Dworshak Reservoir and extends west to the Washington state line. This area, administered by the Nez Perce-Clearwater NF office, includes Elk Creek Falls National Recreation Trail (N46˚44’ W116˚10’), Giant Cedar Grove Special Area and NRT (N46˚53’ W116˚7’), the Elk River Backcountry Byway, and the White Pine Scenic Byway, along with trailheads at  Potlatch Canyon (N46˚46’ W116˚27’), and Feather Creek (N46˚56’ W116˚25’). The White Pine Scenic Byway ascends the Hoodoo Mountains and passes the White Pine Special Area and NRT (N47˚1’ W116˚41’), which houses an Idaho record tree. A side road, Forest Road 377, leads to Bald Mountain for views of the Palouse prairie (N47˚2’ W116˚40’). Potlatch Canyon trailhead, on Forest Highway 1963 off of State Routes 3-8 at Helmer, provides an old railroad bed through a canyon with towering cedars and meadows. Bull Run Creek RNA (N46˚44’ W116˚11’) includes parts of Tick Ridge, a basalt plateau to the south of the town of Elk River. There are western red cedar and coastal disjunct species here.To the north of Elk River is the Elk Butte Mountain Hemlock Special Area (N46˚51’ W116˚7’) and the Morris Creek Cedar Grove Special Area (N46˚51’ W116˚13’), which contains old growth western redcedar.

to be continued

North Central Rockies Forests, Part B: National Forest System I

Part B National Forest System I

The National Forest system in the North Central Rockies forests ecoregion includes 17 areas, including three experimental forests, a tree nursery, a national recreation area, and 13 national forests. Coram Experimental Forest, Montana, was previously described under biosphere reserves. National forests are described in parts B, C, and D of the North Central Rockies posts.

National Forests of the Continental Divide, Swan, and Mission Ranges

Deerlodge NF, Montana, is 1.2 million acres and includes the southernmost portions in the North Central Rockies forests. The Continental Divide NST traverses the eastern Anaconda Range and almost encircles Butte to the south, east, and north within the forest. The Upper Clark Fork landscape area of the forest surrounds Butte.  Thompson Park (N45-53 W112-28) on State Route 2 south of Butte is managed as a municipal park.  Also south of Butte is the Basin Creek Reservoir municipal watershed area including Basin Creek RNA (N45˚49’ W112˚32’) on the Continental Divide south of Butte in the Boulder Batholith.  It contains granite outcrops, small summits and swales.  Sedges and willows dominate the basin.

In Jefferson River landscape area are Hells Canyon (N45˚41’ W112˚25’), Highland Mountains (N45˚43’ W112˚29’), Upper Whitetail Park, Mountain, and Reservoir (N46˚5’ W112˚17’), and the Bull Mountains (N46˚6’ W112˚4) of the Boulder Batholith.  Dry Mountain RNA (N45˚58’ W112˚13’) is in the Boulder Batholith east of Butte.  It contains old growth Douglas-fir and grassland-steppe vegetation north of Pipestone Hot Springs. Lost Park RNA (N46˚1’ W112˚17’), also in the Boulder Batholith north of Pipestone Hot Springs, is an undisturbed subalpine wetland with willow-sedge riparian areas, grassland, and subalpine fir.

In the Boulder River landscape are two RNAs.  Bernice RNA N46˚15’ W112˚28’ is west of I-15, exit 151, on a north-facing slope overlooking the Boulder River and contains old growth Douglas-fir, spruce/northern twinflower, and scattered aspen. Thunderbolt Mountain RNA N46˚20’ W112˚26’ is on the Continental Divide north of I-15, Exit 151 and consists of a drier subalpine forest of lodgepole pine, subalpine fir, along with wet meadows and bogs.  This landscape also includes the Kit Carson Peak area (N46˚11’ W112˚30’) and the Little Boulder River watershed (N46˚10’ W112˚30’).

The southwestern portion of the Elkhorn Mountains including the area around Elkhorn State Park (N46˚16’ W111˚57’) are also in the Deerlodge NF. The Elkhorn Mountains portion of the forest is within the Elkhorn Cooperative Management Area, a wildlife management area which contains hiking opportunities. The CMA also includes part of the Deerlodge NF and BLM lands.

To the north of the Deerlodge along the Continental Divide is the Helena NF, Montana, which is 975,000 acres and includes areas west of the Missouri River that are in the North Central Rockies forests. The southern approaches to the Scapegoat Wilderness are in the forest. South of Helena is the Elkhorn Cooperative Management Area, a wildlife management area which contains hiking opportunities. The CMA also includes part of the Deerlodge NF and BLM lands. Within the Elkhorn area is Crow Creek Falls (N46˚20’ W111˚48’), reached by a hike beginning on Forest Road 424 in the southern part of the area. Another hike within the CMA is the Eagle Trail, a 3.5-mile loop from the Eagle Guard Station (N46˚19’ W111˚45’). The Mount Helena NRT begins in a city park and extends through the forest. The Continental Divide NST extends through the forest from north to south from the Scapegoat Wilderness boundary (N47˚10’ W112˚33’) south to Lewis and Clark Pass (N47˚9’ W112˚26’), Rogers Pass (N47˚5’ W112˚22’), MacDonald Pass (N46˚33’ W112˚9’), and the Deerlodge NF boundary (N46˚20’ W112˚29’). Indian Meadows RNA (N47˚6’ W112˚36’) is north of Lincoln and contains fens, ponds, and marshes on a glaciated bench forested with Douglas fir and spruce. Red Mountain RNA (N47˚7’ W112˚44’) contains alpine tundra and lodgepole pine, with fellfields and stone strip patterning.

Lewis and Clark NF, Montana, is 1.8 million acres and includes areas west of the Missouri River in the North Central Rockies forest ecoregion, known as the Rocky Mountain division of the forest.  The area is mostly forested but about 15 percent of the area is mountain meadows or rocky peaks. The mountain ranges consist of high elevation parallel limestone reefs separated by deep valleys. At the North End geographic unit of the forest along US Route 2, the Summit Campground (N48˚19’ W113˚21’) serves as the trailhead for an extensive hiking area, including the Two Medicine-Elk Calf loop trail (N48˚17’ W113˚15’) and the Continental Divide NST. The Walling Reef RNA (N48˚6’ W112˚47’) includes this area and part of the Bob Marshall Wilderness. The Blackleaf-Dupuyer Geographic Unit includes Volcano Reef (N48˚2’ W112˚42’) and trailheads accessing the Bob Marshall wilderness through the North Fork Dupuyer and Blackleaf Creek.  There is winter range for elk, bighorn sheep, and mule deer. The Teton Geographic Unit includes the watersheds of the North, South, Middle, and West Forks of the Teton River.  The Teton Pass Ski area (N47˚56’ W112˚48’) and the Blacktail-South Fork NRT and Jones Creek NRTs are in this area. Rocky Mountain at 9,392 feet, is the highest point and is reachable from Our Lake.  Fossils of seashells, corals, and tubeworms are evident in the limestone rocks which are 70 to 100 million years in age (Howe 2013).  The South Fork Teton Trailhead (N47˚51′ W112˚47′) is the beginning of the trail to Our Lake.  Heading south from the same area on Forest Route 109 is the South Fork Teton-Blacktail NRT, which crosses the Deep Creek-Reservoir North Geographic Unit and ends at the North Fork Sun River (N47˚37′ W112˚46′).

Along the North Fork Sun River is the Sun Canyon Geographic Unit which contains the Gibson Dam reclamation facilities (N47˚36’ W112˚48’) and trailheads. South of the reservoir, the Lange Creek Trail leads south to the Patricks Basin (N47˚33’ W112˚50’) and Renshaw Geographic Unit, home to the Sun River elk herd.  Benchmark-Willow Geographic Unit contains an airfield (N47˚29’ W112˚52’) along Wood Creek.

At the south end of the Rocky Mountain portion, the Elk Creek Geographic Area contains Cataract Falls (N47˚19’ W112˚36’) and provides access to the Scapegoat Wilderness over Elk Pass. The Falls Creek Geographic Unit (N47˚15’ W112˚29’) also provides wilderness access via Falls Creek and the Dearborn River, which flows through the forest in a scenic gorge at Devils Glen (N47˚15’ W112˚34’).

Wagner Basin RNA (N47-37, W112-43) is 965 acres just north of the Sun River Diversion Dam on the Rocky Mountain Front.  The RNA contains a limestone spring known for wildflowers, limestone spires, cliffs, and talus slopes.  Wildlife includes bighorn sheep and grizzly.

Flathead NF, Montana is 2.4 million acres including the Great Bear and Bob Marshall wildernesses, described separately. There are 2,100 miles of trails, including a Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail segment. There are six geographic areas used to describe the forest.

Hungry Horse Geographic Area includes lands draining to the Hungry Horse Reservoir and South Fork Flathead River downstream of the dam. Coram Experimental Forest and parts of the Great Bear Wilderness (both described separately) are in this geographic area. In the Hungry Horse Reservoir area are reservoir recreation areas. The Jewell Basin Hiking Area (south end N48˚5′ W113˚53′, north end N48˚12′ W113˚55′) is between Flathead Lake and Hungry Horse Reservoir in the Swan Range.  Numerous lakes and Mount Aeneas are found here. Aeneas Creek (N48˚8’ W113˚51’W) is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system.

Middle Fork Geographic Area. Parts of the Great Bear Wilderness and Bob Marshall Wilderness (both described separately) are in this geographic area, which is along US Route 2 east of Kalispell and south of Glacier NP. Nyack Flats (N48˚27’ W113˚49’) is a wide floodplain opening in the canyon of the Middle Fork noted for lush vegetation.

North Fork Geographic Area includes national forest lands in the North Fork Flathead watershed. Tuchuk RNA (N48˚56’ W114˚38’) is 2,000 acres in the Tuchuk Creek watershed on the slopes of Review Mountain with whitebark pine, subalpine fir, larch, and wet meadows.  Forest trails 23 and 113 traverse the area, which is west of Glacier NP near the Canadian border. The Yakinikak Cave system (N48˚56’ W114˚32’) is along Forest Road 114 and accessible by permit. Yakinikak Creek (N48˚55’ W114˚36’) and Nokio Creek (N48˚56’ W114˚42’), a tributary of Yakinikak Creek, are eligible for the national wild and scenic river system. The Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail traverses this portion of the forest, passing Thoma Lookout and Tuchuck Mountain.

In the Salish Mountains Geographic Area, LeBeau RNA (N48˚35′ W114˚44′) is 5,700 acres in the Flathead and Kootenai National Forests west of Upper Stillwater Lake and Olney on US Route 93. It contains Ketowke Mountain, seven ponds, fens, montane and subalpine forests, wetlands, and rocklands. LeBeau Creek (N48˚36’ W114˚41’) is considered eligible for the national wild and scenic river system. To the south, Miller Creek Research Demonstration Forest (N48˚31’ W114˚42’) is 5,000 acres for the study of prescribed fire and forest regeneration. Little Bitterroot RNA (N48˚0′ W114˚43′) is a 200-acre isolated tract of the Flathead NF at the Hidden Lakes area on the Little Bitterroot River south of US Route 2.  There is a narrow canyon with rock cliffs and Douglas-fir forest. Logan Creek is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its headwaters (N48˚15’ W114˚41’) to its confluence with the Stillwater River (N48˚29’ W114˚32’) near US Route 93.

South Fork Geographic Area is upstream of Hungry Horse Reservoir and includes the South Fork Flathead River watershed. The Bob Marshall Wilderness is mostly within this geographic area. The entire Spotted Bear River is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system, including portions within the wilderness areas. Fens along the Spotted Bear River harbor rare plants.  Limestone walls are visible from the Spotted Bear River along Forest Trail 83 (N47˚54’ W113˚16’) and Forest Road 568 (N47˚56’ W113˚20’), and Forest Road 2826 along the South Fork Flathead River (Spotted Bear Mountain, N47˚53’ W113˚25’). The portion of Spotted Bear River outside the wilderness areas extends from the Great Bear Wilderness boundary (N47˚54’ W113˚14’) to the South Fork Flathead River (N47˚55’ W113˚32’).

Swan Valley Geographic Area. The Bigfork Glacial Grooves (N48˚1’ W114˚2’) were formed when the Swan Valley Glacier collided with a larger ice sheet flowing from the north and was forced to change direction. They are up to two miles long and 900 feet deep. The Condon Creek Botanical Area (N47˚35’ W113˚42’) contains 15 ponds, most of which support water howellia, a federally threatened aquatic plant. East Shore RNA (N48˚1′ W114˚2′) is montane coniferous forest of Douglas-fir and grand fir with talus and rockfields just north of Woods Bay and east of Flathead Lake. Swan River RNA (N47˚52′ W113˚52′) contains an unusual raised peatland along with wetlands in a forest of western red cedar and grand fir, just south of Swan River NWR.

Rattlesnake National Recreation Area, Montana, is 60,000 acres and contains 73 miles of trails just north of Missoula. Trails lead to Stuart Peak (N47˚0′ W113˚55′), Sheep Mountain (N46˚57′ W113˚48′), and along Rattlesnake Creek.  Shoofly Meadows RNA (N47˚0’ W113˚46’) contains wetlands, sphagnum bogs, and peat soil forests on the East Fork Rattlesnake Creek.

National Forests of the Purcell-Cabinet Ranges

Kootenai NF, Montana, is 1.8 million acres in the northwestern corner of Montana and a small section in Idaho, including the Purcell Mountains, Salish Mountains, and Cabinet Mountains.  Administered as part of the forest are the Clark Fork River watershed portions of the Kaniksu NF in Montana; this portion of the forest is described under the Clark Geographic area of the Kaniksu NF (see). The Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail crosses the forest, passing Weasel Meadow, Mount Wam, Ten Lakes Scenic Area, Kootenai Lake, Webb Mountain, Purcell Summit, Mount Henry, Fish Lakes, Upper Ford Yaak River, Garver Mountain, Pole Creek Meadows, and Northwest Peak.

The Bull Geographic Area includes areas below Kootenai Falls including the Lake Creek watershed and Bull Lake. Star Creek drops over a series of waterfalls before entering the Kootenai River opposite of the Yaak River confluence.  This is the Star Creek Canyon Geological Area (N48˚33’ W115˚59’). The Callahan Historical Mining and Logging District Historic Area, Idaho-Montana, includes 3,000 acres along Callahan Creek (N48˚37’ W115˚54’), South Callahan Creek (N48˚24’ W116˚6’), and Glad Creek west of Troy on U.S. Route 2, including a railroad running along the creek. Halverson Face Botanical Area (N48˚20’ W116˚2’) protects northern beechfern on north-facing weeping rock walls, on Forest Road 473 along Halverson Creek.  Spar Springs Geological Area (N48˚17’ W115˚54’)  contains seeps which flow at the rate of 60 to 80 cubic feet per second and are the outlet for Spar Lake, which does not have a surface stream flowing from it. Bad Medicine Zoological Area (N48˚14’ W115˚52’) is 2,000 acres of vertical cliffs to the west of Bull Lake which are used by nesting peregrine falcon.  The area also has sensitive plant species.

At the upper end of Bull Lake, there are three special areas along Ross Creek.  Ross Falls Geological Area (N48˚12’ W115˚53’) is a waterfall in a narrow gorge.  Upstream, Ross Creek Scenic Area (N48˚12’ W115˚55’) has a one-mile, two-loop nature trail passing eight-foot-diameter, 175-foot-high cedars.  The cedar grove continues westward in Lower Ross Creek RNA (N48˚12’ W115˚57’), which has 1,874 acres of large, mature western cedars up to 1,000 years old in age. The area is off State Route 56 four miles west of Bull Lake. East of State Route 56, Doonan Peak RNA (N48˚18’ W115˚46’) is a 504-acre glacial cirque at the head of Madge Creek adjacent to the western edge of the Cabinet Mountains Wilderness.  It is an area of hybrid western larch and alpine larch. The Spar Lake Campground is the trailhead for the hike to Spar Peak (N48˚13’ W115˚59’).

In the Fisher River Geographic Area is Wolf-Weigel RNA (N48˚29′, W114˚59′), south of Trego on Wolf Creek Road at the junction of Wolf and Weigel Creeks. The 250-acre area contains a waterfall and wetlands in a subalpine fir forest.  The Cody Lakes Botanical and Zoological Area (N48˚19’ W115˚14’) is a series of three small lakes with calcareous-loving shrubs and sedges.  These provide habitat for the northern bog lemming.  Near US Route 2 along the Fisher River is the Kenelty Caves Geological Area (N48˚3’ W115˚21’).  The caves formed in Cambrian-aged limestone.  On the eastern portion of the forest on an isolated national forest land tract, Barnum Wetland Botanical Area (N48˚7’ W115˚4’) is a marsh and wetland meadow supporting sedges, rushes, and pink spirea.

In the Koocanusa Geographic Area, Montana State Route 37 between Libby and Eureka is the Lake Koocanusa Scenic Byway.  The road is 67 miles and follows a narrow gorge; bighorn sheep can be seen on rock outcrops.  There are five geological areas, a botanical area, a recreational area, a historical area, and a research natural area.  Pinkham Falls Geological Area (N48˚50’ W115˚9’) is on Pinkham Creek Road.  The north-flowing creek abruptly drops over a waterfall and turns into a west-flowing canyon.  A trail leads downstream from the falls to Camp 32. Stone Hill Recreational and Geological Area (N48˚47’ W115˚17’) is a rock climbing area.  The steep valley walls were glacially scoured due to a restriction in the valley along Lake Koocanusa.  The area is accessible from State Route 37. At nearby Sutton Falls Geological Area (N48˚46’ W115˚16’), a spring melt waterfall drops over 100 feet. At Tenmile Talus Geological Area (N48˚38’ W115˚8’), a notch in the divide between Pinkham Creek and Tenmile Creek was caused by glacial meltwater flows.  Downstream, Tenmile Falls Geological Area (N48˚37’ W115˚10’) is a series of waterfalls in a steep-walled canyon. Little North Fork Falls Recreational Area (N48˚45’ W115˚22’) is a recreational area along Big Creek on the west side of Lake Koocanusa. Barron Creek Historical Area (N48˚31’ W115˚18’),also on the west side is an early homestead site on the Kootenai River.

To the west of the lake, Upper Big Creek Riparian Ecosystem Botanical Area (N48˚37’ W115˚28’) is a former 3,000-acre glacial lake bed between Lawrence Mountain and Lost Soul Mountain.  It is now a lodgepole pine forest. Big Creek RNA (N48˚44’ W115˚20’) is 200 acres on the west side of Lake Koocanusa with a Douglas-fir-dwarf huckleberry habitat.  Big Creek (N48˚45’ W115˚23’) and eight tributaries—Little North Fork Big Creek (N48˚45’ W115˚22’), South Fork Big Creek (N48˚43’ W115˚29’), North Fork Big Creek (N48˚47’ W115˚32’), Good Creek (N48˚47’ W115˚28’), Copeland Creek (N48˚44’ W115˚32’), Lookout Creek (N48˚41’ W115˚29’), East Fork Lookout Creek (N48˚41’ W115˚27’), and unnamed tributary to Lookout Creek (N48˚39’ W115˚28’)—are all eligible for the national wild and scenic river system.

In the Libby Geographic Area is Norman Parmenter RNA (N48˚23’ W115˚41), west of Libby between Norman Mountain and Parmenter Creek.  The 1,300-acre area contains Douglas-fir forest and black cottonwood riparian forest on the creek. South of Libby, Tepee Lake Botanical Area (N48˚10’ W115˚24’), located east of US Route 2, is a floating sphagnum fen with sundews and other fen plants.  West of Route 2, Libby Gold Panning Recreation Area (N48˚7’ W115˚32’) is on Libby Creek near Howard Lake Campground. Southwest of Libby, Flower Lake Botanical Area (N48˚21’ W115˚38’) is a floating sphagnum fen with low pH surface water, supporting boreal toad, sundew, watershield, creeping sedge, and pod grass. Northwest of Libby, the Bitterroot Point Botanical Area (N48˚27’ W115˚40’) supports bitterroot flowers on shallow rocky ledges overlooking the Kootenai River near U.S. Route 2.  The flowers are on south-facing slopes of Flagstaff Mountain east of Kootenai Falls near Hunter Gulch.  Kootenai Falls Historic Area (N48˚27’ W115˚46’) is along U.S. Route 2 where historic period activities such as railroading, a Chinese settlement, homesteading, and placer mining took place.  The Kootenai River from Jennings (N48˚22’ W115˚21’) downstream to Leonia on the Idaho border (N48˚37’ W116˚3’) is eligible for the national wild and scenic rivers system. Its tributaries downstream from Libby, Quartz Creek (N48˚28’ W115˚39’) and West Fork Quartz Creek (N48˚31’ W115˚41’) are also eligible. North of Libby, the East Fork Pipe Creek Geological Area (N48˚40’ W115˚34’) has unusual adjacent notches created by outflow from glacial lakes on the South Fork Big Creek.  The area now drains south to the Kootenai River near Libby instead of east via Big Creek. Huson Peak RNA (N48˚33’ W115˚44’) is north of the Kootenai River and contains a healthy stand of whitebark pine, used for seed collecting for research on white pine blister rust resistance. It is 1,700 acres including Huson Peak, O’Brien Mountain, and Quartz Mountain.

In the Tobacco River Geographic Area is Ten Lakes Scenic Area (N48˚58’ W114˚56’), east of Eureka in the Galton Range, extending over 15,000 acres. There are 89 miles of trails in this alpine glaciated area, 20 miles east of US Route 93 off of Forest Roads 114 and 319.  There are three geological areas, five botanical areas, and one research natural area in this watershed of the forest.  Hamilton Gorge Geological Area (N48˚42’ W115˚1’) was an outlet for glacial meltwaters; on the west side of the canyon is an esker formed by meltwaters. Therriault Pass Geological Area (N48˚55’ W114˚53’) is a U-shaped feature in Gibraltar Ridge, visible from US 93.  Ice backed up to the west from a glacial lobe and gouged the notch. The Tobacco River tributaries Grave Creek (N48˚52’ W114˚49’), Stahl Creek (N48˚55’ W114˚49’), Clarence Creek (N48˚56’ W114˚49’), and Blue Sky Creek (N48˚53’ W114˚44’) in the Whitefish Range are all eligible for the national wild and scenic rivers system.

The 494 Road Bedrock Meadow Botanical Area (N48˚37’ W115˚4’) is on the west side of a peak in the Salish Mountains and provides habitat for Nevada bitterroot and Harkness’ linanthus. Swamp Mountain Meadows Botanical Area (N48˚35’ W114˚58’) includes two five-acre grassy openings on an east-facing ridge with unique plants.  Rocky Fivemile Forest Botanical Area (N48˚33’ W115˚3’) is at the headwaters of Lake Creek.  Rock outcrops in a spruce-fir forest host lichens and between the rock outcrops are wetlands.  Rock crevasses contain rare arctic-alpine species.

Along US Route 93 south of Fortine, the campground at Dickey Lake provides access to a 14-mile trail to Mount Marston (N48˚46’ W114˚47’), offering panoramic views from a lookout tower.  The Ant Flat Interpretive Center (N48˚43’ W114˚53’) is a historic ranger station. Hidden Lake Botanical Area (N48˚40’ W114˚47’) is near Stryker on US Route 93. This is an area of orchids amid three lakes and two swampy areas. Lower Sunday Creek Ecosystem Botanical Area (N48˚38’ W114˚45’) is a riparian forest with old growth western cedar and skunk cabbage.  There is a waterfall within the area, which is south of Stryker off US Route 93.   LeBeau RNA (N48˚35′ W114˚44′) is 5,700 acres in the Flathead and Kootenai National Forests west of Upper Stillwater Lake and Olney on US Route 93. It contains Ketowke Mountain, seven ponds, fens, montane and subalpine forests, wetlands, and rocklands.

Along Lake Koocanusa, Gateway Prairie Botanical Area (N49˚0’ W115˚8’) is a 2,000-acre grassland, with plants disjunct from the Palouse Prairie ecoregion.  Rexford Hoodoos Geological Area (N48˚54’ W115˚9’) includes erosional remnants of a drumlin on the Tobacco River embayment of Lake Koocanusa.

The Yaak River Geographic Area contains diverse botanical, geological, historical, recreational, and scenic areas. The Yaak River from the East Fork Yaak River (N48˚57’ W115˚37’) downstream to its confluence with the Kootenai River (N48˚34’ W115˚59’) is eligible for the wild and scenic river system. On the lower Yaak River is Yaak Falls Recreational Area (N48˚39’ W115˚53’), a waterfall adjacent to the Yaak Highway. The Yahk Mining District Historical Area (N48˚42’ W115˚53’) protects 200 features dating to the 1890s north of Fourth of July Creek, destroyed by the Big Burn of 1910.  Between the confluence of Spread Creek downstream to the confluence with Otis Creek and the Yaak River, northern beechfern is common.  This is the Spread Otis Creeks Botanical Area (N48˚49’ W115˚52’). Just to the east along the Yaak River, the Pete Creek Botanical Area (N48˚51’ W115˚46’) is a five-mile reach of Pete Creek with northern beechfern growing in an old growth red cedar forest.  Further upstream on Pete Creek, Pete Creek Meadows RNA (N48˚58’ W115˚50’), is a 155-acre series of wet meadows with sedges and subalpine fir.

Vinal Lake Botanical Area (N48˚51’ W115˚39’) is a glacial lake perched above the Yaak River surrounded by a moist forest.  Hoskins Lake RNA (N48˚53’ W115˚38’) is 380 acres of Douglas-fir, western larch, Engelmann spruce, and red cedar with fens and wet meadows on Hoskins Lake, a tributary of the Yaak River.  The lakes are separated from the Yaak River by two steep knobs. Vinal Creek (N48˚52’ W115˚38’) and its tributary Turner Creek (N48˚52’ W115˚34’) are eligible for the national wild and scenic river system.  Along the creeks are old growth western larch and cedar, Turner Falls, and Vinal Creek National Recreation Trail, part of the Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail. The Wood Creek Larch Scenic Area (N48˚58’ W115˚37’) is further upstream along the Yaak River, protecting an old growth western larch stand.

The West Fork confluences with the Yaak River after flowing over two waterfalls. These falls are in the Lower West Fork Yaak Falls Geological Area (N48˚56’ W115˚42’). Upstream of the falls, French Creek joins the Yaak River.  The French Creek Cedars Botanical Area (N48˚55’ W115˚45’) is an old growth cedar and larch grove with 500-year-old trees exceeding 50 inches diameter at breast height. At the headwaters of the West Fork Yaak River and Spread Creeks is the Northwest Peak Scenic Area (N48˚57’ W115˚58’), a 13,000-acre area of alpine lakes and open stands of cold-habitat trees in glaciated basins.  Included are Rocky Candy Mountain in the Kootenai NF and Northwest Peak in the Kaniksu NF.  The West Fork Yaak River from its confluence with the Yaak (N48˚55’ W115˚40’) upstream to the Canadian border (N49˚0’ W115˚46’) is eligible for the wild and scenic river system.

In the South Fork Yaak River watershed are Kelsey Creek Botanical Area (N48˚46’ W115˚38’), habitat for rare moonwort species, and Lost Horse Fen Botanical Area (N48˚45’ W115˚35’), a large floating sphagnum mat with unique cliffs and outcrops above it, harboring rare species at the base of Pink Mountain.

Lolo NF, Montana is 2.1 million acres in western Montana along both sides of I-90 at Missoula. It is influenced by maritime climates, producing wet western red cedar bottoms as well as typical northern forests of larch and whitebark pine. It extends cross several mountain ranges including the Cabinets and Bitterroots and Mission Ranges, but is included here for geographic convenience, since it is south of the Kootenai and Flathead forests.

I-90 leads through much of the forest west of Missoula. The Nine Mile Remount Depot Visitor Center (N47˚4’ W114˚24’) was the site of breeding mules for firefighting duty since the 1930s.  The Grand Menard Discovery Trail is a two-mile loop nearby on Forest Highway 476 north of Exit 82 on I-90.  The Petty Creek Bighorn Sheep Viewing Site (N46˚57’ W114˚26’) is on Forest Highway 489 south of I-90, Exit 77. Petty Creek RNA (N46˚51’ W114˚25’) is off Forest Highway 489 between I-90, Exit 77, and US Route 12, on the East Fork of Petty Creek and contains a Douglas-fir and grand-fir forest. The Route of the Hiawatha Rail Trail begins at Pearson, Idaho (N47˚21’ W115˚44’) and extends 15 miles to East Portal, Montana (N47˚24’ W115˚38’) in the Lolo NF.  The railroad made a broad loop to gain elevation to cross the pass between Montana and Idaho. The bicycle trail includes seven high tressels and the 1.6-mile St. Paul Pass Tunnel. Savenac Historic Tree Nursery, at Exit 16 on I-90, established in 1907, is now an arboretum and visitor center which also interprets the Big Burn of 1910 (N47˚23’ W115˚24’).

The Blue Mountain trail system (46˚50’ W114˚5’) is two miles southwest of Missoula off of U.S. Route 93, with 41 miles of trails. Along US Route 12 southwest of Missoula is the Lolo Peak Trail (N46˚43’ W114˚11’), which is reached via Forest Road 612 south of US 12. The trail leads four miles south from FR 612 to Carlton Lake in the Bitterroot NF and on the edge of the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness. The trail is known for views of the Missoula and Bitterroot Valleys. Along the trail is Carlton Ridge RNA (N46˚41’ W114˚11’). An extensive alpine larch grove, along with western larch, is found here.

The Lolo NF extends downstream along the Clark Fork to Thompson Falls. Ferry Landing RNA (N47˚20’ W114˚53’) is on State Route 135 on the Clark Fork River east of St. Regis.  The site shows evidence of repeated scouring by floods from glacial lake Missoula and is forested scree of ponderosa pine and Douglas-fir. Along State Route 200 eight miles east of Thompson Falls is the Koo-Koo-Sint Bighorn Sheep Viewing Site (N47˚35’ W115˚10’). Barktable Ridge RNA (N47˚41’ W115˚8’) is an old growth mountain hemlock forest in the Thompson River watershed north of Thompson Falls.

Sheep Mountain Bog RNA (N46˚57’ W113˚47’) is northeast of Missoula in a cirque at the base of Sheep Mountain.  This wet sphagnum bog has 11,500-year-old peat deposits.  Pyramid Peak RNA (N47˚15’ W113˚24’) borders the Bob Marshall Wilderness and contains Douglas fir-globe huckleberry plant types.  There is a snow avalanche track.

National Forest System description continues in Part C

North-Central Rockies Forests, Part A

Swiss-themed chalets, a transboundary environmental controversy on the Flathead, and the Big Burn

Part A includes an overview of the ranges of the northern rockies and the international and national designations such as World Heritage Sites, Ramsar Sites, Biosphere Reserves, National Historic Landmarks, and National Natural Landmarks. This part begins a discussion of the North Central Rockies forests south of the 50th parallel, an extensive area of parallel ranges separated by deep trenches.

The easternmost line of peaks are along the Continental Divide, and include, from north to south:

  • Clark Range, the border between Alberta and British Columbia
  • Lewis Range, which defines the Continental Divide in Glacier National Park and Waterton Lakes National Park
  • Sawtooth Range, an area in the Lewis and Clark National Forest and Bob Marshall Wilderness to the east of the Continental Divide
  • Lewis and Clark Range, which defines the Continental Divide in the Bob Marshall Wilderness
  • General Robert E. Lee Range, which is in the Helena National Forest between State Route 200 and US Route 12
  • General Eisenhower Range, in the Helena National Forest between US Route 12 and I-15
  • Highland Mountains, the southernmost range of the North Central Rockies just south of Butte

The second line of peaks is between the trench occupied by the North Fork Flathead River and the Whitefish River. The MacDonald Range (British Columbia) or Whitefish Range (Montana) is to the north of US Route 2. Most of this mountain range in the US is in the Flathead National Forest. To the south of US Route 2, between the South Fork Flathead and Swan River is the Swan Range, which is included in the Flathead and Lolo National Forests. Between Flathead Lake and the Swan River, the Mission Range extends southward and is in the Flathead and Lolo National Forests.

The third line of peaks to the west is the Salish Mountains, located to the east of the Kootenai River (Lake Koocanusa) and extending south to Flathead Lake. These are mostly in the Kootenai and Flathead National Forests.

The fourth line of peaks is the Purcell Mountains, drained by the Kootenai River and tributaries. Kootenai Lake and its trench in British Columbia define the west side and the Kootenai River/Lake Koocanusa defines the eastern side. The Kootenai National Forest and Purcell Wilderness Conservancy provincial park include parts of these mountains.

South of the Purcell Mountains, between U.S. Route 2 and State Route 200, are the Cabinet Mountains. These are included in the Kootenai and Kaniksu National Forests. South of the Cabinets, the Coeur d’Alene Mountains extend between the Clark Fork River (State Route 200) and St. Regis River (I-90) and are included in the Coeur d’Alene National Forest, Kaniksu National Forest, and Lolo National Forest. South of the St. Regis River (I-90), the Bitterroot Mountains occupy the boundary between Montana and Idaho, extending from Lookout Pass on I-90 south to the Salmon River. The Lolo National Forest south of I-90 and Bitterroot National Forest west of the Bitterroot River Valley include these mountains. South of the Bitterroots are the St. Joe Mountains, included in the St. Joe National Forest, and the Clearwater Mountains, south of the St. Joe River and extending south to the Salmon River.

The fifth line of peaks, to the west of the Kootenay Trench in British Columbia, Idaho, and Washinton is the Selkirk Mountains, between the Columbia River on the west and Kootenay Lake on the east. The Kookanee Glacier Provincial Park, Kaniksu National Forest, Salmo Priest Wilderness, Colville National Forest, Little Pend Oreille National Wildlife Refuge, and Mount Spokane State Park contain lands within this range.

Finally, west of the Columbia River and east of the Okanogan River are the Monashee Mountains, the sixth line of peaks. These are mostly in British Columbia. Gladstone and Granby Provincial Parks and a small portion of the Colville National Forest are in this range, which also extends west into another ecoregion, the Okanogan dry forests.

The North-Central Rockies were the site of a devastating series of fires known as the Great Burn of 1910. This was shortly after the establishment of the US Forest Service, and the fires made a deep and lasting impact on the agency which continues today. The fire prevention and suppression policies that were put in place are influential worldwide (www.foresthistory.org). Fires in the summer of 1910 spread over large areas of the Clearwater, Lolo, Kootenai, Flathead, Blackfeet (Lewis and Clark), and Kaniksu National Forests, as well as Glacier National Park. On August 20 hurricane-force winds caused the “Big Blowup” and the fires could not be stopped. There were dramatic tales of survival among the undermanned and understaffed fire-fighting crews. In all, three million acres of land was burned and 85 people were killed in the northern Rockies. The debate on forest fire policy that followed was largely won by the fire suppression group, although some argued that backcountry fires should be allowed to burn themselves out or that more frequent burning to reduce fuel loads would be an appropriate policy.

The North Fork Flathead River, which originates in British Columbia and flows into Montana, is part of the national wild and scenic river system in the united States and forms the boundary between Glacier National Park and Flathead National Forest. It has been the subject of a transboundary controversy over coal mining and coalbed methane proposals in British Columbia. A science team conducted a comprehensive comparison of the water quality in the Flathead and the Elk River, the site of more than 50 years of coal mining. Waters of the Elk basin in British Columbia were determined to be significantly more polluted than the Flathead. The United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) also determined that mining in the Flathead basin would be incompatible with the maintenance of Waterton-Glacier National Parks as a World Heritage Site. In 2010, the Premier of British Columbia and the Governor of Montana signed an accord prohibiting coal mining, coal bed methane extraction and gas and oil exploration and development in the North Fork Flathead River Basin (Hauer and Muhlfeld 2010).

There is one World Heritage Site in the North-Central Rockies forests south of the 50th parallel. Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park, Alberta-Montana, consists of adjoining Canadian and U.S. national parks and was established to highlight the glacial landforms, distinctive climate, physiographic setting, mountain prairie interface, and tri-ocean hydrographic divide of the Crown of the Continent region. Waterton Lakes and Glacier parks are also international biosphere reserves. Glaciation resulted in horn-shaped peaks, U-shaped valleys, hanging valleys, arêtes, cirques, and lakes along with 50-60 small glaciers now in retreat. The area also showcases large animal migration and grizzly bear country. The Lewis Overthrust fault is a large low angle thrust fault, the best displayed in North America. It was folded and uplifted, then pushed eastward on top of younger Cretaceous formations. Displacement was up to 80 km and preserved ancient sediments containing Precambrian stromatolites. The parks are located at the mountain-prairie interface, providing examples of ongoing ecological processes. Ecologically, the mountains also catch Pacific moisture, marking the easternmost occurrence of many species.Another superlative is that the area contains 98 percent of the world’s stock of Westslope cutthroat trout.

Glacier National Park has 740 miles of trails. Some of the major visitor areas are along the Going-to-the-Sun Road, which is a national historic landmark. Lake McDonald Valley (N48˚32’ W114˚0’), on the southwest side of the park at the western end of the Going-to-the-Sun Road, includes a 500-foot-deep lake and is ten miles long. Hanging valleys surrounding the lake descend to the area through waterfalls. The Apgar Visitor Center is located here. Logan Pass (N48˚42’ W113˚43’) is the crest of the Going-to-the-Sun Road, and is noted for fields of wildflowers in the summer. St. Mary Valley (N48˚45’ W113˚26’) is at the east side of the Going-to-the-Sun Road at the mountain-prairie boundary. It includes a ten-mile-long lake.

Along the North Fork Flathead River in the northwest part of the park are Kintia Lake (N48˚50’ W114˚21’) and Bowman Lake (N48˚50’ W114˚12’), which provide tours of fire ecology, a homestead site, and the northern three-toed and black-backed woodpecker. Glacier NP hosts 275 species of birds, 14 of global or continental conservation concern, making it an IBA for species such as the olive-sided flycatcher, Brewer’s sparrow, and Cassin’s finch.

East of the Rockies are three areas off the beaten path. Goat Haunt (N48˚57’ W113˚54’) is reached by water from Waterton Lakes NP or by trail. Many Glacier (N48˚48’ W113˚39’) is considered the heart o the park with active glaciers. There is a hotel on Swiftcurrent Lake. Two Medicine (N48˚29’ W113˚22’) in the southeast is noted for trails, lakes, and waterfalls. The Continental Divide National Scenic Trail connects Goat Haunt, Many Glacier, Two Medicine, and Marias Pass (N48˚19’ W113˚21’) on US 2 on the southern boundary of the park.

Waterton Lakes NP, Alberta, showcases the mountain-prairie interface, since the park extends into the prairie habitat. There are 200 km of trails. The core area is the national park and the proposed buffer zone extends to the Pincher Creek, Crowsnest Pass, and Cardston areas. Along the Entrance Parkway is the Prince of Wales Hotel National Historic Site (N49˚3’ W113˚54’) (operated by Glacier Park, Inc., www.glacierparkinc.com), overlooking Upper and Middle Waterton Lakes. The 1927 hotel was built by the Great Northern Railroad like the sister Glacier National Park hotels. The Entrance Parkway leads to the Waterton Park townsite (N49˚3’ W113˚55’). From Waterton Park, Akamina Parkway leads 16 km to Cameron Lake (N49˚1’ W114˚3’) on the international border and containing subalpine habitats. Along the way is the First Oil Well in Western Canada National Historic Site (N49˚4’ W114˚0’). A third scenic drive in the park is the Red Rock Parkway (N49˚5’ W113˚55’), which connects with the Entrance Parkway. In the northern part of the park on Route 6 is the Bison Paddock (N49˚8’ W113˚54’), where bison can be seen grazing grasslands.

There is one Ramsar site in the North Central Rockies forests. Creston Valley Wildlife Management Area, British Columbia (N49˚6’ W116˚34’) is the most important waterfowl habitat in the province. It is managed by a special authority and extends over 17,000 acres, from the US-Canadian border to Kootenay Lake. It is a critical breeding, staging and wintering area for waterfowl including the tundra swan, white-fronted goose, western grebe, breeding Fosters tern, black tern, and wood duck. The Wildlife Interpretation Centre is at Corn Creek, where there is a trail system leading through the floodplain wetlands along the Kootenai River. Other areas are Duck Lake (N49˚10’ W116˚37’), known for thousands of waterfowl, Six Mile Slough, with ponds and dikes, and Dale Marsh at the US border. Forests are western hemlock, red cedar, and western white pine. The area is on both sides of Route 3 west of Creston. In addition to the Ramsar designation, the site is an Important Bird Area and a Canadian Amphibian and Reptile Area.

There are three Biosphere Reserves in the north central Rockies forests. Coram Experimental Forest Biosphere Reserve, Flathead NF, Montana (N48˚22’ W113˚59’), is located on Emery Ridge east of Martin City on Forest Road 38. Research at this site in Hungry Horse, Montana, focuses on western larch regeneration. The Walk with Larch trail consists of two loops in the old growth forest. The Coram RNA is on lower slopes with old growth western larch, Douglas-fir, and a wet meadow. Nearby Hungry Horse, Montana, hosts the Larix Arboretum (N48˚23’ W114˚3’).

Glacier NP Biosphere Reserve, Montana, is described under the Waterton Glacier International Peace Park world heritage site description. The Great Northern Railway Buildings, Going-to-the-Sun Road, and Lake McDonald Lodge in Glacier NP are National Historic Landmarks and are described below under NHLs. Waterton Lakes NP Biosphere Reserve, Alberta, is also described under the Waterton Glacier International Peace Park world heritage site. Within the park is the Prince of Wales Hotel National Historic Site and First Oil Well in Canada National Historic Site.

There are five National Historic Landmarks in the North Central Rockies forests:

Coeur d’Alene’s Old Mission State Park (Cataldo Mission), Idaho (N47˚33’ W116˚22’), also called the Mission of the Sacred Heart, was used by the Jesuits in the 1850s in their efforts to convert the Coeur d’Alene Indians. It is the oldest building in Idaho. Hand hewn beams are secured with wooden pegs. No nails were used in the construction.

Going-to-the-Sun Road, Glacier National Park, Montana, built between 1922 and 1937, became the model for roads in national parks and public lands, introducing the concept of landscape engineering and a model for innovative road engineering as part of the American park movement. The portion of the road from Apgar (N48˚31’ W113˚59’) to St. Mary (N48˚45’ W113˚26’) is within the NHL district. The road is also a National Civil Engineering Landmark. In addition to the road itself, the district includes the following structures:

  • Sprague Creek Culvert (N48˚36’ W113˚53’)
  • Snyder Creek Culvert (N48˚37’ W113˚53’)
  • Horse Trail Underpass (48-38, 113-51)
  • Avalanche Creek Bridge (48-41, 113-49)
  • Logan Creek culvert (48-43, 113-46)
  • West Side Tunnel (48-45, 113-47)
  • Granite Creek (Alder Creek) culvert (48-45, 113-46)
  • Haystack Creek culvert (48-44, 113-45)
  • Triple Arches (48-43, 113-43)
  • East Side Tunnel (48-42, 113-42)
  • Siyeh Creek culvert (48-42, 113-40)
  • Baring Creek bridge (48-41, 113-36)
  • St. Mary River bridge (48-45, 113-27)
  • Divide Creek bridge (48-45, 113-26)

Great Northern Railway Buildings, Montana, is a five-property NHL. The railroad chose a distinctive architectural style, the Swiss chalet, for its Glacier NP development. These structures are the largest collection of Swiss chalets in the U.S. The system of buildings was designed to mimic a European-style resort where major resort hotels are linked to backcountry chalets by trails.

Property 1 is the Belton Chalets, West Glacier, Montana (N48˚29’ W113˚59’), is a group of hotel buildings built 1910 to 1911, the first of the Great Northern tourist hotels, and is just outside of Glacier NP. The buildings retain the arts and crafts ambiance of the early 1900 and are still operated as a hotel (www.beltonchalet.com).

Property 2 is the Many Glacier Hotel Historic District, Glacier NP, Montana (N48˚48’ W113˚39’). This building group, constructed in 1915, is a series of chalets up to four stories tall on the shore of Swiftcurrent Lake. It is known as the ‘Gem of the West.’ There are stone foundations and basements with wood frame superstructures. The lobby has four stories of balconies with floor to ceiling logs (www.glacierparkinc.com).

Property 3 is the Granite Park Chalet (N48˚46’ W113˚48’), Glacier NP, Montana, a dormitory and dining hall on the edge of a subalpine meadow below Swiftcurrent Pass. This 1914 structure is accessible via an eight-mile hike on the Highline Trail west of the Continental Divide (www.graniteparkchalet.com).

Property 4 is Sperry Chalet, Glacier NP, Montana (N48˚36’ W113˚47’), a 23-room dormitory and dining hall in a glacial cirque. Built in 1914, this inn is reached via the seven-mile Sperry Trail (www.sperrychalet.com).

Property 5, Two Medicine Chalet, Glacier NP, Montana (N48˚29’ W113˚22’), is now used as a general store. Built in 1914, this structure is an enormous log building originally used as a dining hall.

The Prince of Wales Hotel in Waterton Lakes National Park in Canada was also built by the Great Northern Railway and is a national historic site of Canada.

Lake McDonald Lodge, Glacier NP, Montana (N48˚37’ W113˚52’), built as the Lewis Glacier Hotel, is one of the finest examples of Swiss chalet architecture in the U.S. It opened in 1914 and was intended to be a rival to the Great Northern Railway buildings being built at the same time. In the lodge, the concrete floors are scored with messages in Blackfoot, Chippewa, and Cree languages. The lobby is three stories high with balconies and tall cedar columns extending three stories high. The room is lined with mounted hunting trophies. The lodge is located on the Going-to-the-Sun Road, also a national historic landmark (www.glacierparkinc.com).

Lolo Trail, Clearwater National Forest, Idaho, Lolo National Forest, Montana, and private lands is a site on the Lewis and Clark and Nez Perce National Historic Trails and is believed to provide a landscape substantially similar to that found in 1805. Because the Salmon River Mountains west of Lemhi Pass were impassible and the Salmon River downstream from the pass could not be navigated, Lewis and Clark chose this more northerly Nez Perce hunting trail as their way to the Pacific. The 100-mile, September 11-21, 1805, crossing, in dense brush and snow, proved the most difficult of the transcontinental trip. The return trip in June 1806, also in snow, also was difficult. The trail connects modern day Lolo, Montana (N46˚46’ W114˚5’) with Weippe Prairie, Idaho (N46˚21’ W115˚55’), mostly in the Lolo and Clearwater National Forests. Later the Nez Perce Indians used the trail in their flight from the US Army in 1877. The Lolo Trail area is mostly defined by Forest Highway 500, although the original trail winds north and south of the modern road. The trail passes Lolo Creek Campground, Hungery Creek, Sherman Saddle, Indian Grave Peak, Indian Post Office, Papoose Saddle, and Packer Meadows in the Clearwater NF. Musselshell Meadows Special Area (N46˚21’ W115˚45’) is a traditional Indian camas root gathering area east of Weippe Prairie. From west to east, sites in the Clearwater NF are Musselshell Meadows, Horse Sweat Pass Camp (N46˚25’ W115˚22’), Spirit Revival Ridge Camp (N46˚25’ W115˚19’), Dry Camp (N46˚26’ W115˚16’), Greensward Camp (N46˚27’ W115˚15’), Indian Grave Camp (N46˚30’ W115˚9’), Lonesome Cove Camp (N46˚33’ W114˚59’), Bears Oil and Roots Camp (N46˚35’ W114˚55’), Snowbank Camp (N46˚35’ W114˚49’), and Glade Creek Camp (N46˚37’ W114˚35’). The trail, Lolo Pass, and Musselshell Meadows are sites of the Nez Perce National Historic Park, Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail, and Nez Perce National Historic Trail.

There is one National Natural Landmark in the North Central Rockies forests. Hobo Cedar Grove Botanical Area (N47˚5’ W116˚7’), St. Joe National Forest, Idaho (administered as part of the Idaho Panhandle National Forests), is a 700-acre area containing ten-foot-diameter trees. It is on Forest Road 3357 off of Forest Highway 321 north of Clarkia.

 

Part B  continues with units of the National Forest System

Northern Mixed Grasslands and Northern Short Grasslands

This area is found in Canada (Alberta) and United States (Montana) and consists of two ecoregions.

  1. Northern mixed grasslands (NA810)

The northern mixed grasslands of Alberta define an ecotone between the tallgrass prairie and boreal forests with aspen, shrubs, bur oak, and mixed tallgrass and short grass.  In the Cypress upland of Alberta, there is montane vegetation of lodgepole pine. The area is a rich waterfowl production area, with glacial pothole lakes. This ecoregion includes glacial terminal moraines, which have a hummocky physiography.

In Devil’s Coulee, Alberta, are late Cretaceous-age hadrosaur eggs.  A study of dinosaur eggs and bird eggs based on the eggs at Devil’s Coulee indicated that the greatest similarity was with these types of dinosaurs, adding support to the hypothesis that troodontids and oviraptorids were the ancestors of birds  (Grellet-Tinner and Chiappe 2004).

One World Heritage site in the Northern Mixed Grasslandsis Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump National Historic Site, Alberta (N49˚42’ W113˚39’), 18 km west of Fort Mcleod on Secondary Route 785 and managed by the province of Alberta. For 6,000 years, this site was used by native peoples to kill bison by driving them over a cliff. V-shaped drive lanes channeled herds to near the cliff, and then a stampede was provoked. Wounded animals at the base of the cliff were killed. Deep layers of bison bones indicate the site was used into the 19th century. Trails and interpretive tours are offered by Blackfoot guides.

There are two nationally designated sites in the Northern Mixed Grasslands. Fort Whoop-Up National Historic Site, in Indian Battle Park, City of Lethbridge, Alberta (N49˚42’ W112˚52’) commemorates the 1869 establishment of a trading post by American fur traders.  Because the traders distributed whiskey to the natives, Canada was prompted to establish the Royal Canadian Mounted Police to protect native peoples and bring order to the area. Indian Battle Park is also the location where the Cree and Blackfoot fought in 1870, ending in a Cree defeat.

Stirling National Historic Site, Village of Stirling, Alberta (N49˚30’ W112˚31’) is a self-sufficient Mormon agricultural village established in 1899. Tours are available at the Michelson Farmstead, 1904, a typical farm of the early 20th century.

Provincial and local sites in the Northern Mixed Grasslands ecoregion include natural, paleontological, and reservoir recreation sites.

Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park, Alberta-Saskatchewan (N49˚39’ W110˚0’) is a range of hills that rise 600 m above the surrounding prairies; there are 16 trails which wander through a lodgepole pine forest, through Spruce Coulee, and along prairies.

Devil’s Coulee Dinosaur and Heritage Museum, City of Warner, Alberta (N49˚17’ W112˚13’) offers tours to a nearby hadrosaur nest with embryonic dinosaurs, discovered along the Milk River Ridge in 1987. The Royal Tyrell Museum of Paleontology manages the site for public use along with the Devil’s Coulee Cooperating Society.

Oldman River Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚43’ W113˚27’) is on the west side of Route 2 just north of Fort Macleod, providing river access and camping.

Park Lake Provincial Park, Alberta (N49˚49’ W112˚55’) is a reservoir recreation site with hiking trails and waterfowl viewing.  It is located north of Lethbridge on Range Road 223.

Twin River Heritage Rangeland Natural Area, Alberta (N49˚10’ W112˚20’) is a large hunting area north of Route 501 and west of Route 4 along the Milk River, North Milk River, and Milk River Ridge.

Privately operated sites in the Northern Mixed Grasslands includes the Fort Museum of the North West Mounted Police and First Nations Interpretive Centre, Fort Mcleod, Alberta (N49˚44’ W113˚24’), which commemorates the nearby site of Fort Mcleod and an outpost of the Mounted Police from 1874 to 1878.

Reference

Grellet-Tinner, Gerald and Luis M. Chiappe. 2004. Dinosaur Eggs and Nesting: Implications for Understanding the Origin of Birds.   Pages 185-214 In Feathered Dragons: Studies on the Transition from Dinosaurs to Birds.  Philip J. Currie, ed.  Indiana University Press.

2. Northern short grasslands (NA 811)

This ecoregion includes a broad swath of the Great Plains. Only a small section in Alberta and Montana is described here; the description will be expanded in the future to include areas to the north of the 50th parallel and east of the 110th meridian. This ecoregion is an area of brown glaciated plains with poorly drained lake basins. Some areas are more rolling to hummocky with seasonal pothole lakes, such as the Sweetgrass uplands, a forest grassland complex. Elsewhere the vegetation is dominated by grama-needlegrass-wheatgrass. The shortgrass prarie is the largest grassland ecoregion in North America, notable for its harsh winters, short growing season, severe droughts, and shortgrass vegetation.

Large dams constructed for irrigation storage in this part of the Great Plains have altered spring flood flows downstream from Lake Elwell and Fresno Reservoir. Rood and Mahoney (1995) found that cottonwood seedling recruitment downstream from Tiber Dam (Lake Elwell) has declined since the dam was built. This was attributed to a change in the pattern of water flow downstream. When spring flooding takes place, there is scouring and and gradual flow decline in the floodplain downstream. This creates point and lateral bars which are unvegetated and seedlings can establish themselves. Without flooding, dense grass and shrubs encroach to the water’s edge and the unvegetated bars are not present. Lessia and Miles (1999) found that Russian olive can compete better than cottonwood in this environment and that as old cottonwoods die, they are being replaced by Russian olive.

Another issue with water management in this ecoregion has arisen at Benton Lake National Wildlife Refuge. The natural lake formerly went dry, but today is supplemented by a pump station which captures natural and irrigation drainage from soils that are naturally selenium-rich. The rate of selenium accumulation in sediments is increasing. Selenium will need to be managed to increase the life of the refuge (Zhang and Moore 1997).

There is one site in the Western Hemisphere Shorebird Reserve Network in the northern short grasslands. Benton Lake National Wildlife Refuge (NWR), Montana (N47˚40’ W111˚19’) is a 12,000-acre lake and marsh on the western edge of the Great Plains filled with migratory birds. It is an IBA for shorebirds, ducks and Franklin’s gull. It hosts the largest breeding colony of Franklin’s gulls and white-faced ibis in Montana. During wet years the refuge serves as breeding habitat for ducks, coot, American avocet, and phalarope in addition to other shore birds, and in dry years shorebirds utilize mudflats where the lake dries up. Mixed grass prairie birds are also found here, such as Sprague’s pipit, ferruginous hawk, and upland sandpipers. A prairie marsh auto tour winds through the refuge for nine miles, and the Prairie Marsh Boardwalk is a National Recreation Trail. Originally a Bureau of Reclamation project, the refuge receives supplemental water from Muddy Creek via a pipeline and intake near Power (N47˚41’ W111˚42’).

There are three National Historic Landmarks in the Northern Short Grasslands. Fort Benton Historic District, Montana (N47˚49’ W110˚40’) was the head of steamboat navigation on the Missouri River, 2,300 miles from St. Louis, and is considered the birthplace of Montana. It is the oldest continuously occupied Anglo-American settlement in Montana. It was the eastern terminus of a 600-mile-long wagon road to Walla Walla, Washington, where travelers could transfer to boat traffic on the Columbia River, and the terminus of wagon roads to Fort McLeod, Alberta, 250 miles northwest, and Fort Walsh, Saskatchewan, 130 miles northeast.  The fort was established in 1846, initially to serve the fur trade, then entered its period of prominence with the discovery of gold in Helena, Virginia City, and Bannack in the 1860s. The NHL includes historic resources associated with the steamboat era, which lasted from 1860 to 1890. These include:

  • Fort Benton site, 1846, abandoned 1874
  • Fort Benton Blockhouse, 1856, site of storage of buffalo robes for shipping
  • Fort Benton levee, 1860, where ships docked, passengers disembarked, and freight transferred
  • Grand Union Hotel, 1862; and Pacific Hotel, 1883
  • Fort Benton steel truss bridge, 1888, on State Route 15, which provides views of the upper Missouri largely unchanged since the 1880s
  • Fire House and City Hall, 1883 combination building
  • House (1) and businesses (5) associated with the steamboat era

Great Falls Portage, Montana is located both upstream and downstream of present-day Great Falls, Montana. The NHL includes the upper and lower campsites and portage routes; the middle portage route has been obliterated by modern-day Malmstrom AFB and the city of Great Falls. The portage lands in the NHL are privately owned. The lower portage campsite is one mile downstream from the mouth of Belt Creek (N47˚37’ W111˚3’). It includes the campsite, Sulphur Spring, which is opposite of the mouth of Belt Creek, the gorge below Morony Dam, and the portage corridor to the east end of Malmstrom AFB (N47˚30’ W111˚9’). The upper portage includes a site on River Drive, south of Great Falls, on the east bank of the Missouri River (N47˚28’ W111˚18’). The portage corridor extends northeast to Mount Olivet Cemetery (N47˚29’ W111˚15’).

C.M. Russell Museum, Great Falls, Montana (N47˚31’ W111˚17’) includes the home and studio of America’s foremost western artist, Charles M. Russell. He first went to Montana four years after Custer’s last stand and was able to witness Montana territory before it was settled. There were Indian tribes pursuing tranditional activities and large herds of buffalo. He recorded his experiences in paintings, and in 1886 had a painting displayed at the St. Louis Art Exposition. After riding the range, he settled in Great Falls in 1900 to paint full time. In the statuary hall of the U.S. Capitol, a statue of Russell represents the state of Montana. The National Historic Landmark house and studio are included in a larger complex called the C.M. Russell Museum, owned by the City of Great Falls.

There is one National Natural Landmarks in the Northern Short Grasslands. Square Butte, Montana (N47˚28’ W110˚14’) is southeast of Fort Benton off State Route 80. This is considered the best example of banded magmatic rock. The 5,700-foot peak juts 2,400 feet from the surrounding plains and has spires and pinnacles. A herd of mountain goats lives on top, which is accessible by a one-mile hike.

There is one unit of the National Landscape Conservation System in the Northern Short Grasslands. Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument, Montana extends into the area from the east. The visitor center is located t Fort Benton at the west end of the monument. The primary floating access is at Coal Banks (N48˚2’ W110˚14’), off US 87 near Virgelle Ferry.

There is one nationally designated site in the Northern Short Grasslands. Aisinai’pi National Historic Site/Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park, Alberta (N49˚5’ W111˚37’) is the largest concentration of rock carvings and paintings on the Great Plains of North America, with 50 sites protected in the park. The area features unique sandstone formations along the Milk River. Trails lead past hoodoos, and the rock art is only accessible through guided tours.

There are eight Federal and federally licensed reservoirs in the US portion of the Northern Short Grasslands.  Five of these are within a 13-mile stretch of the Missouri River downstream of Great Falls and are operated by PPL Montana (there is a pending sale to NorthWestern Energy) as run-of-the-river hydroelectric facilities. These areas are part of the Great Falls Portage National Historic Landmark (see). Black Eagle Dam (N47˚31’ W111˚16’) is two miles northeast of Great Falls and has a generating capacity of 21 MW. The Rivers Edge Trail is maintained along the south shore. The 60-MW Rainbow Dam (N47˚32’ W111˚12’) is six miles northeast of Great Falls. Just below the dam are Rainbow Falls, where the Missouri River drops 47 feet. Cochrane Dam (N47˚33’ W111˚9’) is eight miles northeast of Great Falls and 64 MW in generation capacity. The dam serves as a pedestrian linkage between the north and south shore trails along the reservoir. Ryan Dam (N47˚34’ W111˚7’) is ten miles northeast of Great Falls with 60 MW of generation capacity. A 1913 clubhouse is maintained for public rental. Morony Dam (N47˚35’ W111˚4’) is 48 MW and 15 miles northeast of Great Falls.and

Fresno Dam and Reservoir, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N48˚41’ W110˚0’) is part of the Milk River project. The Milk River headwaters are in Glacier National Park. Water is stored at 6,000-acre Fresno Reservoir for use in irrigation downstream for 165 miles along the Milk River between Havre and the Missouri River. The reservoir supports a fishery for walleye, perch, and northern pike.

Fort Shaw Diversion Dam, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N47˚31’ W111˚52’) diverts water from the Sun River into the 12-mile-long Fort Shaw Canal.

Tiber Dam and Lake Elwell, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N48˚19’ W111˚6’), is southeast of Shelby and provides flood control, recreation, conservation, rural water supply, and hydropower in a 17,700-acre reservoir.  The project has the potential to provide irrigation but only 3,000 acres have benefitted from irrigation water availability. Fishing for trout is a major recreation activity. The land around the reservoir is noted for unusual sandstone formations.

The National Trail System in the Northern Short Grasslands includes one National Historic Trail and one National Recreation Trail. Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail, Montana, includes the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Visitor Center, administered by the Lewis and Clark NF, located in Great Falls adjacent to Giant Springs State Park.  Trail sites in the ecoregion include Great Falls Portage (described above under National Historic Landmarks) and Missouri-Maria’s Confluence, Upper Missouri Breaks National Monument, Montana (N47˚56’ W110˚28’). The confluence represented a key decision point on the upstream journey. Both rivers were similar in size. Lewis and Clark paused at the junction to determine which stream was likely the Missouri and scouted upstream on both rivers. When they came to the Great Falls of the Missouri, they knew that they had correctly chosen the Missouri flowing to the southwest. Had they chosen the Marias River, the expedition might have failed, since they would not have been able to cross the Rockies in time before winter set in, and the Blackfeet Indians would likely have been more hostile than tribes to the southwest.

The National Recreation Trail in the Northern Short Grasslands is Prairie Marsh Boardwalk, Benton Lake NWR, Montana (N47˚41’ W111˚22’), a 0.2-mile walk on the refuge auto tour route.

The National Wildlife Refuge system in the Northern Short Grasslands includes Benton Lake NWR, described under Western Hemisphere Shorebird Reserve Network, and numerous waterfowl production areas (WPAs), listed below. In the I-15 corridor are ten areas. Arod Lakes WPA (Eyraud Lakes), Montana (N47˚59’ W112˚2’) is 800 acres west of Brady and home to nesting American white pelicans, making it an Important Bird Area. Blackhurst WPA, Montana (N48˚49’ W111˚47’) is a 300-acre grassland and wetland area north of Ferdig, which is east of I-15, Exit 379. Brown WPA, Montana (N48˚55’ W111˚51’) is a 260-acre wetland and grassland area northeast of I-15, Exit 389. Brumwell WPA, Montana (N47˚47’ W111˚40’) is 250 acres of wetlands adjacent to I-15 between exits 302 and 313. Cemetary WPA, Montana (N48˚52’ W111˚51’) is a 100-acre wetland area east of I-15, Exit 389. Danbrook WPA, Montana (N48˚59’ W111˚49’) is a 300-acre wetland complex east of I-15 and just south of the US-Canadian border. Dunk WPA, Montana (N48˚56’ W111˚49’) is an 80-acre wetland complex east of I-15 near the Canadian border. Ehli WPA, Montana (N48˚59’ W111˚47’) is a 500-acre wetland and grassland complex on the US-Canada border eight miles east of I-15. Hartelius WPA, Montana (N47˚31’ W111˚31’) is five miles north of Vaughn on Neuman School Road, consisting of 300 acres of wetlands and grassland. Long Lake WPA, Montana (N48˚54’ W111˚50’) is a 600-acre wetland complex in the Willshaw Flats east of I-15 south of the Canadian border.

The remaining five areas are scattered tracts. Big Sag WPA, Montana (N47˚36’ W110˚44’) is 350 acres of wetlands and grasslands in the former spillway channel (the Big Sag) for glacial Lake Great Falls at Highwood. Furnell WPA, Montana (N48˚52’ W111˚18’) consists of 2,000 acres of native grasslands and scattered wetlands at the foot of Gold Butte in the Sweet Grass Hills. Hingham Lake WPA, Montana (N48˚36’ W110˚31’) is two miles northeast of Rudyard off of US Route 2.  It consists of 280 acres of wetlands and native grassland. Kingsbury Lake WPA, Montana, (N47˚34’ W110˚21’), consists of a large 1,400-acre brackish wetland and grassland in a 3,700-acre tract southwest of Geraldine off State Route 80.  It was part of the spillway for glacial Lake Great Falls when the Missouri River was blocked by a glacier. Peterson WPA, Montana (N48˚51’ W112˚14’) is a 100-acre wetland and grassland complex north of Cut Bank. Savik WPA, Montana (N47˚57’ W112˚19’) is an alkaline wetland and native grassland area on U.S. 89 south of Bynum.

Other federal sites in the Northern Short Grasslands include Kevin Rim, BLM, Montana (N48˚48’ W112˚2’), an escarpment overlooking the Kevin Sunburst Oil Field on I-15, providing habitat for the ferruginous hawk, making it an IBA.

Lonesome Lake Watchable Wildlife Area, BLM Havre Field Office, Montana (N48˚15’ W110˚13’) is 14,500 acres northwest of Big Sandy and contains prairie potholes, shallow lakebed, and shortgrass prairie which attracts shorebirds. It is an IBA for ferruginous hawk, northern harrier, and long-billed curlew. There are also hundreds of stone circle archaeological sites.

Maria’s River, Montana, BLM Havre Field Office, Montana is a canoe river with access points at Sullivan Bridge south of Cut Bank (N48˚29’ W112˚14’), Pugsley Bridge south of Chester (N48˚17’ W111˚3’),and Moffat Bridge south of Chester (N48˚16’ W111˚0’).

The Sweetgrass Hills, BLM Havre Field Office, Montana (N48˚54’ W111˚7’) rise 3,000 feet above the prairie and are an island of mountainous forested habitat for elk and deer.

State and Local sites in the Northern Short Grasslands include natural and cultural sites in Alberta and Montana. First Peoples Buffalo Jump State Park, Montana (N47˚29’ W111˚32’) is a mile-long 200-foot cliff containing 18 feet of compacted buffalo remains at the base. This was the largest bison cliff jump in North America, located north of Ulm and west of Great Falls.

Freezout Lake Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N47˚40’ W112˚3’) is 11,500 acres on US 89 north of Fairfield, managed for waterfowl and raptors.  The area is noted for thousands of pintail, tundra swan, snow geese, Franklin’s gull, and shorebirds, making it an IBA.

Fresno Reservoir Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N48˚44’ W110˚9’) is 2,677 acres of native prairie on the western side of the reservoir at the northern entrance of Chain of Lakes Coolee.

Giant Springs State Park, Montana (N47˚32’ W111˚14’) is one of the largest freshwater springs in the country, at 156 MGD. It flows into the Missouri River just east of Great Falls. The park is adjacent to the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center.

Kennedy Coulee Ecological Reserve, Alberta (N49˚1’ W110˚44’) is in a remote area along the US-Canadian border in southeastern Alberta, adjoining Milk River Natural Area, east of Aden and west of Wild Horse. It is available for hiking.

Marias River Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N48˚28’ W112˚3’) is 5,845 acres on the Marias River ten miles west of the I-15 crossing, exit 358.  It is managed for deer and waterfowl.

Milk River Natural Area, Alberta (N49˚2’ W110˚41’) is a hiking area in badlands along the Milk River.  It is in a remote area along the US-Canada border east of Aden and west of Wild Horse.

Onefour Heritage Rangeland Natural Area, Alberta (N49˚8’ W110˚16’along Route 41, N49˚1’ W110˚26’ on the US-Canadian border, and N49˚1’ W110˚49’ west of Kennedy Coulee) is in three units north and west of Wild Horse.

Pakowki Lake Provincial Bird Sanctuary, Alberta (N49˚19’ W110˚57’) is an intermittent playa lake and sand dune-wetland complex on Secondary Route 885 which attracts congregations of waterfowl such as pintail, dowitchers, and stilt sandpiper. It is an Important Bird Area.

Red Rock Coulee Natural Area, Alberta (N49˚39’ W110˚52’) is a hiking and wildlife viewing area off Route 887.  Distinctive red rocks litter the area.

References

Lessia, Peter and Scott Miles. 1999. Russian Olive Invasion into Cottonwood Forests Along a Regulated River in North-Central Montana.  Canadian Journal of Botany 77:1077-1083.

Rood, Stewart B. and John M. Mahoney.  1995. River Damming and Riparian Cottonwoods Along the Marias River, Montana.  Rivers 5:197-207.

Zhang, Yiqiang and Johnnie N. Moore. 1997.  Controls on Selenium Distributionin Wetland Sediment, Benton Lake, Montana.  Water, Air, and Soil Pollution 97:323-340.

 

 

Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands, Part C

State and Local Sites in the Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands. This post is the final in the series on Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands and covers state, local and private sites focused on natural history. They are organized according to the valley where they are located.

The Blackfoot River Valley is upstream and to the east of Missoula. Aunt Molly Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N46˚55’ W113˚1’) is 1,184 acres located where Cut Off Road crosses the Blackfoot River south of Route 200 in the Nevada Valley. It is managed for native fish recovery and restoration of wetlands along the river. Blackfoot-Clearwater Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N47˚4’ W113˚20’) is 43,761 acres northeast of the junction of State Routes 83 and 200 managed as winter range for elk. Nevada Lake Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N46˚48’ W112˚48’) is located on State Route 141 north of Nevada Lake in the Nevada Valley. It is managed for winter range for elk and mule deer. Salmon Lake State Park, Montana (N47˚6’ W113˚24’) is a lakeside recreation area located on State Route 83 south of Seeley Lake.

The Clark Fork Valley is west of the Continental Divide and extends from Butte downstream to Missoula. Traveler’s Rest State Park, Montana, was previously described under National Historic Landmarks. Council Grove State Park, Montana (N46˚55’ W114˚10’), is in Grass Valley just west of Missoula on an island in the Clark Fork River. This is where the Hellgate Treaty was negotiated between the US Government and the Salish, Kootenai, and Pend d’Orielle Indians to establish the Flathead reservation. The state park is on Mullan Road. Fort Owen State Park, Montana (N46˚31’ W114˚6’), is a one-acre site north of Stevensville which commemorates Montana’s first permanent Euro-American settlement and first Catholic church. Fleecer Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N45˚47’ W112˚45’ and N46˚0’ W112˚48’) is a grassland area west of Butte and adjacent to I-15 at Divide. Frenchtown Pond State Park, Montana (N47˚1’ W114˚15’) is a lake recreation site is on I-90, west of exit 89 on the North Frontage Road. Milltown State Park, Montana (N46˚52’ W113˚53’), was developed following a dam removal at Milltown, exit 109 on I-90 just east of Missoula. The site is 500 acres and includes hiking trails and interpretation on the Lake Missoula glacial floods. Spotted Dog Wildlife Management Area, Montana, (N46˚30’ W112˚40’) is 38,000 acres northeast of Deer Lodge on Rocky Ridge between I-90 and US 12. Warm Springs Wildlife Management Area, Montana, (N46˚11’ W112˚48’) is a 1,600-acre waterfowl area at exit 201 on I-90

an extensive trail system in and around the City of Missoula, including trails along the Clark Fork River downtown, Mount Jumbo (N46˚53’ W113˚57’), North Hills (N46˚53’ W113˚59’), Tower Street (N46˚52’ W114˚4’), and Mount Sentinel (N46˚51’ W113˚58’). The Glacial Lake Missoula shoreline is visible in the area and is a scenic highlight of the trail system. .

The south shores of the Flathead Lake area are another grassland habitat. Big Arm State Park, Montana (N47˚49’ W114˚19’), is a lakeside recreation area on Flathead Lake, southwest shore. Finley Point State Park, Montana (N47˚45’ W114˚5’), is a lake recreation area on a peninsula at the south end of Flathead Lake. Ninepipe Wildlife Management Area (N47˚28’ W114˚7’), a 3,880 acre area of numerous prairie potholes northeast and southwest of the reservoir. Pablo Wildlife Management Area (N47˚38’ W114˚10’, 416 acres) adjoins the Pablo NWR, mostly on the north. Both Ninepipe and Pablo areas are managed consistent with adjacent national wildlife refuges.

Missouri River Valley south of Gates of the Mountains is an extensive area of grasslands.  The major tributaries of the Missouri are included.Bannack State Park, and Missouri Headwaters State Park, Montana, were described previously under National Historic Landmarks, while Beaverhead Rock State Park and Clark’s Lookout State Park,, Montana, were described under the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail. Black Sandy State Park, Montana (N46˚45’ W111˚53’), is a reservoir recreation area on Hauser Reservoir northeast of Helena. Canyon Ferry Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N46˚21’ W111˚31’), is 5,100 acres at the upper end of Canyon Ferry Reservoir, where the Missouri River flows into the lake. Four large diked ponds at the upper end of the reservoir contain islands which support American white pelican, cormorants, gulls, and terns, making the area an IBA. The dikes were constructed to reduce blowing dust from reservoir drawdown areas. Gravelly-Blacktail Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N44˚54’ W112˚17’), is an 18,000-acre area on Blacktail Deer Creek southeast of Dillon and west of the Snowcrest Range. Lake Helena Wildlife Management Area (N46˚42’ W111˚58’), on the west end of Lake Helena, is 175 acres managed for waterfowl and is an IBA. Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park, Montana (N45˚50’ W111˚52’), is the largest known limestone caverns in the Northwest located on the Jefferson River canyon and accessible from State Route 2 west of Three Forks.

Madison Buffalo Jump State Park, Montana (N45˚48’ W111˚28’) is east of the Madison River and was used for 2,000 years to run buffalo off of a limestone cliff.  It is reached south from Exit 283 on I-90 (Logan). Madison-Wall Creek Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N45˚3’ W111˚42’), a 7,000-acre grassland area on the west side of the Madison River adjoining Beaverhead NF and the Gravelly Range. Robb-Ledford Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N45˚0’ W112˚10’), is a 28,000-acre grassland on the west side of the Snowcrest Range. Spring Meadow Lake State Park, Montana (N46˚37’ W112˚5’), is located on Country Club Avenue west of Helena and features a trail circling the lake. Willow Creek Reservoir (Harrison Fishing Access Site), Montana (N45˚42’ W111˚42’) is off of US Route 287 south of Three Forks. The irrigation district reservoir is an IBA for waterfowl and grassland birds.

On the Rocky Mountain front are extensive wildlife management areas.Beartooth Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N46˚57’ W111˚50’), is a 32,000-acre area on the north end of the Big Belt Mountains and east side of Holter Lake. Black Creek Heritage Rangeland, Alberta (N49˚55’ W114˚11’) is north of the Oldman River and west of Route 22, including Whaleback Ridge. Blackleaf Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N48˚0’ W112˚40’) is 10,000 acres of winter range for elk and mule deer and summary habitat for black and grizzly bear. It is located on the Rocky Mountain front west of Bynum. Bob Creek Wildland Provincial Park, Alberta (N49˚58’ W114˚17’) is an OHV, hiking and hunting area in the Livingstone Range north of the Oldman River and accessible from Township Road 104a on the north side of the Oldman River west of Route 22. Dome Mountain Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N45˚15’ W110˚49’), is a 4,800-acre elk wintering range in the Paradise Valley and adjacent mountains just north of Yellowstone National Park. Dutch Creek Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚54’ W114˚24’) is a hiking and camping area on Route 940 on the Oldman River. Jensen Reservoir Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚20’ W112˚54’) is south of Magrath on Jensen Dam Road and provides reservoir recreation. Judith River Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N46˚53’ W110˚18’), is a 5,000-acre elk winter range on the east side of the Little Belt Mountains.

Lundbreck Falls Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚35’ W114˚13’) is on the Crowsnest River adjacent to Route 3. The river drops 12 m over a waterfall into a canyon. Maycroft Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚18’ W114˚9’), is on the west side of Route 22 at the Oldman River crossing. Oldman Dam Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚34’ W113˚54’) provides bird watching opportunities and reservoir recreation on Route 785 north of Pincher Creek. Route 510 provides access to the north shore. The park includes all property around the reservoir upstream to Todd Creek (N49˚36’ W114˚7’) and the Castle River Wildlife Area on Route 3 at the Castle River crossing (N49˚33’ W114˚2’). Oldman River North Provincial Recreation Area (N49˚57’ W114˚26’) is a camping and hiking area west of Route 940 near the British Columbia border. Outpost Wetlands Natural Area, Alberta (N49˚0’ W113˚29’) is an extensive wetland on the US-Canadian border between Chief Mountain and Carway adjacent to Police Outpost Provincial Park. Payne Lake Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚6’ W113˚38’ is a reservoir recreation area located between Mountain View and Waterton Lakes NP and offering wildlife viewing and hiking. Police Outpost Provincial Park, Alberta (N49˚0’ W113˚28’), is on the US-Canadian border between Chief Mountain and Carway and offers reservoir recreation, wildlife viewing, and hiking.

Remington Carriage Museum Provincial Historic Site, Alberta (N49˚12’ W113˚18’) is located on Route 2 (Main Street) in Cardston, exhibiting 270 horse-drawn carriages from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, making it the largest collection of horse-drawn transportation. Ross Lake Natural Area, Alberta (N49˚7’ W112˚54’), is a hunting area located two miles south of Ross Lake and west of Route 62. St. Mary Reservoir Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚22’ W113˚7’) is a reservoir recreation area at St. Mary Dam on Route 505 north of Cardston. The park includes the dam tailwater, the lower right bank, and an island in the reservoir. The reservoir is an Important Bird Area for California gull, with a colony of 2,000 nests, and American white pelican. Sluice Boxes State Park, Montana, includes a 7.5-mile trail following an old railroad grade through Belt Creek Canyon, featuring cliffs and ledges. The trail extends from Riceville on US 89 (N47˚13’ W110˚56’) south to the Logging Creek Bridge on Forest Highway 839 in the Lewis and Clark NF (N47˚8’ W110˚56’).

 Smith River State Park, Montana, is the site of a 59-mile-long river float beginning at Camp Baker (N46˚48’ W111˚11’) and ending at the Eden Bridge (N47˚14’ W111˚23’).  The river gorge cuts through the Little Belt Mountains. Camp sites are provided in the Lewis and Clark and Helena NFs. Smith River Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N46˚43’ W 111˚10’) is 3,312 acres along the Smith River north of Fort Logan managed for mule deer winter range. Sun River Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N47˚35’ W112˚38’), is 19,771 acres west of Augusta and south of the Sun River. It includes the Sawtooth Ridge and grasslands to the east.

Beatrice Taylor Field Station, Montana State University (N47˚49’ W112˚26’), is on the Willow Creek Anticline, the bone bed containing the richest dinosaur nesting site in North America, commonly called Egg Mountain. Fossil fragments from juvenile, embryonic, hatchling, and adult duckbill dinosaurs are found at this location. This is not a public access site. Tower Rock State Park, Montana (N47˚11’ W111˚49’), is a 400-foot rock formation on the Missouri River noted by Lewis and Clark. It is located on I-15, exit 250 at Hardy. Waterton Reservoir Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚20’ W113˚41’) is a reservoir recreation area on Route 505. Woolford Provincial Park, Alberta (N49˚11’ W113˚11’) is east of Cardston on Township Road 30a off Route 503 and features hiking trails in a riparian cottonwood forest.

Private sites in the Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands include hot springs and conservation organization areas. Boulder Hot Springs, Montana (N46˚12’ W112˚6’) is south of I-15 Exit 164 off State Route 69. Bozeman Hot Springs, Montana (N45˚41’ W111˚11’) is on U.S. 191 ten miles west of Bozeman, with nine soaking pools. Chico Hot Springs, Montana (N45˚20’ W110˚33’) is in the Paradise Valley off US 89, 35 miles north of Yellowstone National Park. Fairmont Hot Springs, Montana (N46˚2’ W112˚49’) is west of Butte at Exit 211 on I-90. Jackson Hot Springs, Montana (N45˚22’ W113˚24’) is in the Big Hole Valley on State Secondary Route 278. Norris Hot Springs, Montana (N45˚34’ W111˚41’), has soaking pools on State Route 84 in the Madison River valley. White Sulphur Hot Springs, Montana (N46˚33’ W110˚54’) is on US 12-89 in the Smith River valley.

Crown Butte Preserve, The Nature Conservancy, Montana (N47˚26’ W111˚56’), is an undisturbed native grassland on a mountain rising 900 feet above the prairie near state route 200 south of Simms. Madison Valley, Montana (N45˚14’ W111˚45’ north to N45˚26’ W111˚41’ (Ennis Lake)), contains riparian cottonwood and willow habitats bordered by shortgrass prairie. It is an IBA for bald eagle, willow flycatcher, American redstart, and red-naped sapsucker. Ennis Lake contains major waterfowl concentrations including common loon. Pine Butte Swamp Preserve, Nature Conservancy, Montana (N47˚52’ W112˚33’). The 100,000-acre preserve is run as a ranch resort. It is the largest wetland complex on the Rocky Mountain front and a grizzly bear stronghold.

Ronan Rough-Legged Hawk Roost, Montana (N47˚31’ W114˚2’) is on the eastern side of the Mission Valley on private lands near Ronan within the boundaries of the Flathead Reservation.  The largest known roost of rough-legged hawks is located here. The hawks are attracted to large numbers of voles in the valley. The site is an IBA. Safe Harbor Marsh Preserve, Nature Conservancy, Montana (N47˚47’ W114˚9’) is a low elevation marsh connected to Flathead Lake, located north of Polson. The site is an IBA. Sun Ranch, Montana (N44˚58’ W111˚38) is a 19,000-acre property between the Madison River and the Lee Metcalf Wilderness under conservation easement, providing critical big game winter range for elk, mule deer, moose, bighorn, pronghorn, and mountain goat.  Research is conducted on the compatibility of wolves and cattle ranching, as well as grassland biodiversity and trout recovery.  The site is an IBA for sage grouse and Brewer’s sparrow. Two Medicine Dinosaur Center, Bynum, Montana (N47˚59’ W112˚19’) provides field paleontology workshops at dinosaur sites on the Rocky Mountain front. Weston Family Conservation Center and Waterton Park Front, The Nature Conservancy, Alberta (N49˚10’ W113˚50’) provides an overview of 32,000 acres protected in conservation easements adjacent to Waterton Lakes National Park along Route 6.  The visitor center has a short nature trail.

 

References

Barreto, Claudio et al. 1993.  Evidence of the Growth Plate and the Growth of Long Bones in Juvenile Dinosaurs.  Science 262:2020-2023.

Goebel, Ted, Michael R. Waters and Dennis H. O’Rourke. 2008. The Late Pleistocene Dispersal of Modern Humans in the Americas.  Science 319:1497-1502.

Lahren, Larry, and Robson Bonnichsen. 1974. Bone Foreshafts from a Clovis Burial in Southwestern Montana. Science 186:147-150.

Martin, Anthony J. and David J. Varricchio. 2011. Paleoecological Utility of Insect Trace Fossils in Dinosaur Nesting Sites of the Two Medicine Formation (Campanian), Choteau, Montana.  Historical Biology 23:15-25.

Potera, Carol. 1995. Amateur Fossil Hunters Dig Up Trouble in Montana. Science 268:198-199.

Rasmussen, Morten et al.  2014.  The Genome of a Late Pleistocene Human from a Clovis Burial Site in Western Montana. Nature 506:225-229.

Varricchio, David J. et al. 2008.  Avian Parental Care Had Dinosaur Origin. Science 322:1826-1828.

Waters, Michael R. and Thomas W. Stafford Jr. 2007. Redefining the Age of Clovis: Implications for the Peopling of the Americas. Science 315:1122-1126.

 

 

 

Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands, Part B

This post includes recreation lakes, the national trail system, and the national wildlife refuge system and related federal areas on the Rocky Mountain front and valleys of Montana. There are 11 federally operated or licensed Recreation Lakes in the Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands ecoregion.  In the Rocky Mountain front are the Milk River project to the north and the Sun River project west of Great Falls.

The Milk River project of the Bureau of Reclamation includes two facilities in the Montana Valley and Foothill grasslands ecoregion. St. Mary Diversion Dam, Montana (N48˚51’ W113˚25’) is along the Saint Mary River downstream of Lower St. Mary Lake on the Blackfeet Indian Reservation.  Water is diverted into 29-mile-long St. Mary Canal, which discharges into the North Fork Milk River just before it flows into Canada (N48˚59’ W113˚3’).  This water is captured 200 miles downstream at Fresno Reservoir where it is stored for irrigation use. Swift Current Dike, Montana (N48˚50’ W113˚26’) diverts water from Swiftcurrent Creek into the St. Mary Canal for use in the Milk River project downstream.

There are two facilities of the Sun River project of the Bureau of Reclamation in the Rocky Mountain front. Pishkun Dikes, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N47˚41’ W112˚28’) is an off-stream storage area receiving water from the Sun River and used for irrigation. Willow Creek Reservoir, Montana (N47˚33’ W112˚27’) stores water from Willow Creek and Sun River for later use in irrigation.

In the Missouri River valley are three recreation lakes. Holter Lake, PPL Montana, including Lower Holter Lake Special Recreation Management Area, Bureau of Land Management (BLM), Montana (N46˚59’ W112˚0’), is a 27-mile-long reservoir on the Missouri River that includes the Gates of the Mountains (N46˚53’ W111˚55’), a narrow gorge that the river has cut through the Rocky Mountains. There is a boat-in campground at Beartooth Landing. Recreation sites on the lake are managed by the BLM, including campgrounds and hiking trails.

Upstream from Holter Lake is Hauser Lake,PPL Montana, including Hauser Lake SRMA, BLM, Montana (N46˚46’ W111˚53’), 15 miles northeast of Helena.  The Prickly Pear Creek embayment, known as Lake Helena, contains marshland and riparian areas and is an IBA for passerines and waterfowl.  Black Sandy State Park is south of the dam on the main channel of the Missouri River. Lake Helena Wildlife Management Area, on the west end of Lake Helena, is 175 acres.  Reservoir recreation areas are managed by BLM.

Upstream of Hauser Lake is Canyon Ferry Lake, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N46˚38’ W111˚42’), an irrigation reservoir on the Missouri River east of Helena. A visitor center is at the dam. The reservoir is noted for eagles, terns, and pelicans. At the upper end near Townsend is Canyon Ferry Wildlife Management Area, an IBA for waterfowl.  This was constructed to reduce blowing dust from reservoir drawdowns.  Water is pumped from Canyon Ferry Lake to the Helena Valley Canal and its water is stored in the Helena Valley Reservoir. Reservoir recreation sites are part of the Uppermost Missouri SRMA of BLM Butte Field Office. Helena Valley Regulating Reservoir, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N46˚38’ W111˚52’), receives water pumped from Canyon Ferry Reservoir into Helena Valley Canal, which carries water to the reservoir at mile 11.  The canal continues for 20 miles to provide irrigation in the Helena Valley.

Upstream of the Three Forks of the Missouri in the Madison River valley is Ennis Lake and Madison Dam, PPL Montana, Montana (N45˚26’ W111˚40’).  This four-unit hydroelectric plant at Bear Trap Canyon north of Ennis also is part of the Madison Valley IBA.  The reservoir provides waterfowl habitat while the Madison River upstream to Ennis provides riparian habitat.

In the Beaverhead River valley are two reservoirs. Barretts Diversion Dam, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N45˚8’ W112˚44’), is at Exit 56 on I-15 on the Beaverhead River.  The dam diverts water to the East Bench Canal, which delivers water for 61 miles in the Dillon area. Clark Canyon Reservoir, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N45˚0’ W112˚52’) is located on I-15, Exit 44 on the Beaverhead River.  The reservoir delivers water 11 miles downstream to Barretts Diversion Dam for irrigation in the East Bench Canal.  Camp Fortunate on the Reservoir is a site on the Lewis and Clark NHT.

West of the Continental Divide on the Flathead River is an additional dam in the Montana Valley and Foothill grasslands. Flathead Lake and Kerr Dam, PPL Montana, Montana (N47˚41’ W114˚14’) incorporates Flathead Lake, the largest natural freshwater lake west of the Mississippi River in North America; the lake was raised ten feet by Kerr Dam on the Flathead River five miles southwest of Polson.

The National Trails System in the Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands includes two National Historic Trails (NHTs) and four national recreation trails. The Continental Divide National Scenic Trail passes through the ecoregion for a few miles where the trail crosses I-15 south of Butte at Exit 111 (N45˚52’ W112˚40’).

There are nine sites on the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail (NHT) in the Montana Valley and Foothill grasslands.  Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center, located near the Great Falls of the Missouri, serves as the trail headquarters and visitor center, managed by the Lewis and Clark National Forest. Six sites on the outbound journey are in the Montana Valley and Foothills grasslands. Gates of the Mountains, Holter Lake, Montana (N46˚53’ W111˚55’), a narrow gorge that the river has cut through the Rocky Mountains.  The 1,200-foot cliffs towering above the Missouri River were seen by Lewis and Clark in 1805. A boat tour is offered from the marina at Exit 209 on I-15, 20 miles north of Helena.

Upstream of Canyon Ferry Lake on the Missouri is the Missouri Headwaters State Park, described under National Historic Landmarks.  Further upstream on the Beaverhead River are Beaverhead Rock State Park and Beaverhead Rock Area of Critical Environmental Concern (ACEC), Bureau of Land Management (BLM), Montana (N45˚23’ W112˚28’), is on State Route 41 at the Beaverhead River crossing; this rock formation is associated with the Lewis and Clark expedition.  Sacajawea recognized the rock and thought she might be near her relatives, which led to a meeting with her brother and the securing of horses for the overland portion of the expedition.

Clark’s Lookout State Park, Montana (N45˚14’ W112˚38’) is on old US Route 91 one mile north of Dillon. This site provides a view of the Beaverhead Valley enjoyed by Captain William Clark during the Lewis and Clark expedition.  A monument shows the three compass readings taken by Clark.

Camp Fortunate Overlook, Bureau of Reclamation, Clark Canyon Reservoir, Montana (N45˚0’ W112˚52’), is the famous site where Lewis and Clark met the Shoshoni Tribe, reuniting Sacajawea with her people.  Supplies were stashed here for the return trip.  The site is under the reservoir. Further west on the outbound trip, Travelers Rest State Park is described under National Historic Landmarks.

On the return journey, Travelers Rest was also a site passed by Lewis and Clark. Other sites associated with the return journey are Camp Disappointment, described under National Historic Landmarks, and the Museum of the Plains Indian, US Department of the Interior, Indian Arts and Crafts Board, Browning, Montana (N48˚33’ W113˚1’), at the junction of US Routes 2 and 89 west of Browning. The museum displays northern plains Indian traditional costumes, horse gear, weapons, household implements, and toys.

Nez Perce NHT, Montana, commemorates sites associated with the Nez Perce flight from the U.S. Army in 1877. Rather than be forced to live on a reservation, the Nez Perce began a flight from Idaho to Canada. In 1877, they crossed into the Bitterrroot Valley near Lolo and headed south through the Bitterroot Valley, with the Army and volunteer settlers in pursuit.  An attempt by the Army to stop them was unsuccessful when they climbed a mountain to tht north of a barricade on Lolo Creek and avoided conflict.  This site later became known as Fort Fizzle (N46˚45’ W114˚10’), today on US Route 12 in the Lolo NF.  The Nez Perce later camped at Silverthorn Creek (N46˚30’ W114˚8’) west of Stevensville for several days in the Bitterroot Valley. The Army caught up with the Nez Perce at the site of today’s Big Hole National Battlefield, on the edge of the Anaconda Mountains. After the battle, the Nez Perce retreated and camped at Skinner Meadows (N45˚1’ W113˚31’), on Forest Road 381 in the Beaverhead NF. After obtaining horses in Horse Prairie, the Nez Perce are believed to have crossed into Idaho at Bannock Pass (N44˚49’ W113˚17’).

National Recreation Trails (NRT) in the Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands are grouped by the valley where they are located.  In the Madison River valley upstream from the Missouri Headwaters are Bear Trap NRT, BLM, Montana, a nine-mile trail beginning at Madison Power Plant (N45˚29’ W111˚38’) and following the Madison River in Bear Trap Canyon downstream through the Lee Metcalf Wilderness to near State Route 84 (N45˚35’ W111˚36’).  It is part of the Lower Madison SRMA.

In the Big Hole Valley is Big Hole Battlefield NRT, Big Hole National Battlefield, Montana (N45˚39’ W113˚39’). Approximately one-half mile of trails lead to important sites of the 1877 battlefield, including the Nez Perce campsite and the siege site where the soldiers were penned down.

In the Clark Fork watershed west of the Continental Divide are two NRTs. Garnet Winter NRT, BLM, Montana (N46˚53’ W113˚28’) is a 30-mile trail beginning on State Route 200 30 miles east of Missoula at the Greenough Post Office, offering views of the Blackfoot River Valley from the Garnet Range. Lee Metcalf Wildlife Viewing NRT, Lee Metcalf NWR, Montana (N46˚32’ W114˚6’), is a two-mile trail on the Bitterroot River with two loops off Wildfowl Lane in the southwest part of the refuge.

There are two National Wilderness areas in the Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands. Lee Metcalf Wilderness, Beaverhead and Gallatin NFs and BLM, Montana, is a 255,000-acre wilderness consisting of four separated units between US 287 and US 191 in the Madison Range.  Bear Trap Canyon unit (N45˚31’ W111˚37’) is administered by BLM and is 6,000 acres in the canyon of the Madison River. It is part of the Lower Madison SRMA. Red Rock Lakes Wilderness, Montana, is described under National Natural Landmarks.

The National Wildlife Refuge System in the Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands is an extensive collection of refuges, waterfowl production areas (WPAs), and conservation areas. In the Rocky Mountain front are four areas.  The Rocky Mountain Front Conservation Area, Montana, is a conservation easement area with up to 295,000 acres of conservation easements between the Blackfeet Indian Reservation (N48˚20’ W112˚33’) on the north, Lewis and Clark NF on the west, U.S. Route 287 on the east, and the South Fork Dearborn River valley (N47˚10’ W112˚13’) on the south.  It contains the largest remaining expanse of intact fescue grasslands in the northern Great Plains. Jarina WPA, Benton Lake Wetland Management District, Montana (N48˚11’, W112˚47’) is 6,400 acres of kettle lakes and native grassland at the base of the Rocky Mountains 14 miles west of Dupuyer on Swift Dam Road. Savik WPA, Benton Lake Wetland Management District Montana (N47˚57’ W112˚19’) is an alkaline wetland and native grassland area on U.S. 89 south of Bynum. Schrammeck Lake WPA, Benton Lake Wetland Management District, Montana, (N47˚14’ W111˚32’) is 400 acres including wetlands southeast of Cascade (exit 254 on I-15).

South of the Rocky Mountain front in the Missouri River watershed, Ennis National Fish Hatchery, Montana (N45˚13’ W111˚48’) is located at Blaine Spring in the Gravelly Range west of the Madison River. At the head of the Beaverhead Valley is Red Rock Lakes NWR and Wilderness, Montana (N44˚38’ W111˚47’), described under National Natural Landmarks.

West of the Continental Divide in the Clarks Fork watershed are sixxx areas. Blackfoot Valley Conservation Area, Montana, is along State Route 200 between Bonner (N46˚52’ W113˚52’) and Rogers Pass (N47˚5’ W112˚22’).  It also includes State Route 141 in the Nevada Creek watershed (N46˚42’ W112˚40’) and Route 83 in the Clearwater River valley (N47˚23’ W113˚38’).  The area contains a distinctive native bunchgrass prairie.  Up to 103,000 acres of conservation easements may be purchased.  The area contains sagebrush-grassland with glacial potholes and supports nesting Brewer’s sparrow and long-billed curlew and is an IBA.  The area also supports grizzly bear and bull trout.

Blackfoot WPA, Benton Lake Wetland Management District, Montana (N46˚58’ W112˚58’) is 1,700 acres of native grassland in the valley, Douglas fir forest on Marcum Mountain, and wetlands on State Route 200 and the Blackfoot River east of Ovando. The rolling terrain was left behind by the Blackfoot Valley glacier. H2-O WPA, Benton Lake Wetland Management Area, Montana (N46˚56’ W113˚2’) is in an old oxbow of the Blackfoot River in the Nevada Valley south of Ovando, containing 1,800 acres of grassland and wetlands. Kleinschmidt Lake WPA, Benton Lake Wetland Management District, Montana (N46˚58’ W113˚4’) is 1,100 acres of rolling grassland left by the Blackfoot Valley glacier in the Nevada Valley south of Ovando and is an IBA for Brewer’s sparrow and long-billed curlew. Upsata Lake WPA, Benton Lake Wetland Management District, Montana (N47˚4’ W113˚14’) is a wetland and grassland area of kettle lakes left by a glacier at the south end of the Swan Mountain range. It is north of Route 200 at the north part of the Blackfoot Valley.

In the Bitterroot Valley is Lee Metcalf NWR, Montana (N46˚34’ W114˚5’). This is a 2,800-acre floodplain refuge along the Bitterroot River and contains a mosaic of forest, grassland, and riparian habitat.  There are two trails for wildlife observation, including the Lee Metcalf NRT and Kenai Trail. Waterbirds, raptors, and songbirds may be seen. A 50-km stretch of the Bitterroot River from Woodside (N46˚19’ W114˚9’) to Lolo (N46˚45’ W114˚4’) including Lee Metcalf NWR is an IBA for Lewis’s woodpeckers, red-naped sapsuckers and other birds of riparian cottonwood habitat.

On the south side of Flathead Lake is the Mission Valley, which contains a number of refuge areas. National Bison Range, Montana (N47˚20’ W114˚13’), is 19,000 acres and maintains a bison herd of 350 to 500 animals on a low rolling mountain covered with native grassland and Douglas-fir forest.  A driving tour ascends Red Sleep Mountain and there are four short trails. The range is an IBA for bald eagle, Lewis’s woodpecker, and red-naped sapsucker.

Between the National Bison Range and Ninepipe NWR are four WPAs. Herak WPA, Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N47˚24’ W114˚10’) is 80 acres on West Post Creek Road west of US 93 between the National Bison Range and Ninepipe NWR. Sandsmark WPA, Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N47˚25’ W114˚9’) is 400 acres in the Mission Valley between the National Bison Range and Ninepipe NWR, between Logan, West Post Creek, and Ninepipe Roads. Johnson WPA, Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N47˚26’ W114˚12’) is 80 acres in the Flathead Valley west of Charlo southeast of the junction of Hall and Morris Roads. Montgomery WPA, Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N47˚26’ W114˚10’) is 80 acres in the Mission Valley south of Charlo to the southwest of Logan and Olsen Roads.

Ninepipe NWR, Montana (N47˚27’ W114˚7’), is a 1,000-acre easement refuge on tribal lands located on a Bureau of Indian Affairs reservoir on US 93 in the Mission Valley.  The refuge attracts waterfowl to the reservoir and surrounding grassland and prairie potholes, under easement of the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes. The refuge adjoins Ninepipe Wildlife Management Area (N47˚28’ W114˚7’), a 3,880 acre area of numerous prairie potholes northeast and southwest of the reservoir. Together, the two areas are an IBA for breeding grebes and double-crested cormorant.

Between Ninepipe and Pablo NWRs are four WPAs.  Kickinghorse WPA, Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N47˚28’ W114˚6’) is a 170-acre pothole area in the Flathead Valley on US 93 north of Ninepipe NWR. Duck Haven WPA, Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N47˚29’ W114˚7’) is a 700-acre prairie pothole area on US 93 and Duck Road in the Mission Valley. Anderson WPA, Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N47˚29’ W114˚8’) is west of US 93 off of Piedalue Road in the Mission Valley. Crow WPA, Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N47˚29’ W114˚12’) is 1,500 acres north of Charlo in the Mission Valley.

Pablo NWR, Montana (N47˚38’ W114˚9’), is a 2,500-acre easement refuge on tribal lands located on a Bureau of Indian Affairs reservoir on US 93 in the Mission Valley.  The refuge is managed for waterfowl, under easement of the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes. Pablo Wildlife Management Area (N47˚38’ W114˚10’, 416 acres) adjoins the refuge, mostly on the north. Together, the two areas are an IBA for shorebirds and redhead ducks.

Other federal sites in the Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands include specially designated areas of the Bureau of Land Management. In the Missouri Valley are Sleeping Giant ACEC and SRMA, BLM, Montana (N46˚56’ W112˚3’), on the west side of Holter Lake, accessible from I-15 north of Helena, exit 226.  The 11,679 acres include seven miles of ridgeline hiking and recreation sites on upper Holter Lake.  The Sleeping Giant rock formation is visible from Helena. Scratchgravel Hills SRMA, BLM Butte Field Office, Montana (N46˚41’ W112˚5’) is northwest of Helena and contains numerous former mines. The area is a mountain biking area. The mine shafts and adits are gated and used by bats. The Elkhorn ACEC, BLM, Montana surrounds the Helena NF south of Helena between Radersburg and  Boulder (N46˚12’ W111˚53’) and northwest of Townsend (N46˚20’ W111˚39’). There is an elk herd and the designation also protects cultural resource sites. Uppermost Missouri SRMA, BLM, Montana, includes recreation areas along the Missouri River from Three Forks to Canyon Ferry Reservoir.  There is a trail at Crimson Bluff (N46˚18’ W111˚32’), on the west side of the Missouri River south of Townsend.  The Toston Dam area (46˚7’ W111˚24’) is known as the Little Gates of the Mountains.

In the Madison River valley is Revenue Flats Recreation Area, BLM Dillon Field Office, Montana (N45˚32’ W111˚46’), with hiking and rock climbing west of US 287 at Norris. Upper Madison River SRMA, BLM, Montana (N45˚4’ W111˚40’), includes the palisades of the Madison River, visible from two campgrounds.  West of the Madison River drainage are Ruby Mountains SRMA, BLM Dillon Field Office, Montana (N45˚19’ W112˚14’), an area of frested mountains and trails west of Virginia City managed for non-motorized recreation.

In the Beaverhead Valley is the Beaverhead Sage-Steppe area, BLM Dillon Field Office, Montana. This area includes basins and intermountain valleys along Grasshopper Creek west of I-15 (N45˚8’ W112˚56’), Sage Creek (N44˚26’ W112˚36’), and the Centennial Valley (N44˚38’ W112˚7’) between Lima and Red Rock Lakes NWR form an IBA for the sage grouse in the largest intact sagebrush habitat in Montana. Centennial Sandhills ACEC, BLM Dillon Field Office, Montana (N44˚42’ W111˚48’) is a 1,000-acre sand dune complex just north of Red Rock Lakes NWR; the area hosts rare plants. Centennial Valley Wetland and Waterfowl Production Areas, BLM, Montana (N44˚38’ W112˚10’) are 17,000 acres west of Red Rock Lakes used by peregrine, trumpeter swan, and other waterfowl.  There are also paleontological resources.  The area is centered around Lima Reservoir and areas to the east along the Red Rocks River.

Big Sheep Creek Backcountry Byway, BLM Dillon Field Office, Montana, is a loop from I-15 south of Dell which circles the Tendoy Mountains and includes Big Sheep Creek SRMA, a canyon (N44˚38’ W112˚47’) with trout and wildlife viewing opportunities. Everson Creek ACEC, BLM Dillon Field Office, Montana (N44˚54’ W113˚20’), is north of Bannock Pass and west of Horse Pasture.  The chert quarries here are believed to be the oldest archaeological site in Montana. Muddy Creek/Big Sheep Creek ACEC, BLM Dillon Field Office, Montana (N44˚41’ W112˚51’) is 13,000 acres with high palisades and scenic canyons in the Tendoy Mountains.  The area is also known for rock art. Rocky Hills SRMA, BLM Dillon Field Office, Montana (N45˚4’ W112˚54’) is between Bannack and I-15; it is a wilderness study area providing hiking opportunities. Henneberry Ridge is in the center of the area. South Pioneers SRMA, BLM Dillon Field Office, Montana (N45˚17’ W112˚48’) is west of Dillon and provides a mountain biking area along Rattlesnake Creek at the southeastern end of the Pioneer Mountains.

In the Big Hole River valley are more federal lands.  Lower Big Hole SRMA, BLM Dillon Field Office, Montana extends from near Twin Bridges on Route 41 (N45˚30’ W112˚27’) upstream to I-15 (N45˚44’ W112˚45’) and is a river recreation area. Block Mountain Area of Critical Environmental Concern, BLM Dillon Field Office, Montana (N45˚28’ W112˚33’) is on the Big Hole River between I-15 and Twin Bridges.  The 8,661-acre site is visited by geologic field trips to study its fold and thrust belt feature. Upper Big Hole River SRMA, BLM Butte Field Office, Montana extends from near Wisdom (N45˚45’ W113˚23’) downstream to Divide Bridge (N45˚45’ W112˚47’) and provides river recreation and hiking areas.  State Route 43 follows the river.