Sierra Nevada Forests, Part 2B: Tahoe National Forest and American River

Part 2B continues with the national forest system and then describes the reservoir and hydroelectric power systems of the American River area of the Sierra Nevada forests ecoregion.

Lake Tahoe Basin

Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit, California, manages 78 percent of the Lake Tahoe watershed, and was formed from lands of the Eldorado, Tahoe, and Toiyabe National Forests. The special management unit was established from three national forests to protect the 1,650-foot-deep natural lake. The southernmost point is at the headwaters of the Upper Truckee River along the Pacific Crest Trail near Carson Pass (N38º42’ W120º0’), the northernmost point is at Mount Relay west of Tahoe Meadows (N39º19’ W119º57’), the westernmost point is at near Barker Peak on the Pacific Crest Trail (N39º5’ W120º15’), and the easternmost point is on State Route 207 in Haines Canyon (N38º58’ W119º51’). The Taylor Creek Visitor Center (N38º56’ W120º3’) is at South Lake Tahoe. Near the Visitor Center is a stream profile chamber where a diverted creek can be viewed through aquarium windows. Also near the visitor center is Tallac Historic Area, a resort for San Francisco elite in the early 20th century; Valhalla, an art, museum, and theater hall built in 1924; and trailheads for hikes into the Desolation Wilderness. Trailheads for the wilderness are discussed in the wilderness entry. Other trailheads in the management unit are at Big Meadow on State Route 89 (N38º47’ W119º56’), which is for the Tahoe Rim Trail to Dardanelles Lake; Lam Watah on US Route 50 (N38º58’ W119º56’), which is for Nevada Beach Trail; Bayview on State Route 89 (N38º57’ W120º6’), which is for Cascade Falls; Spooner Summit South on US Route 50 (N39º6’ W119º54’), for the Tahoe Rim Trail; Chimney Beach on State Route 28 (N39º10’ W119º56’), and Lakeshore Drive in Kings Beach (N39º14’ W120º0’), for the Stateline Lookout.

The unit is encircled by the 165-mile long Tahoe Rim National Recreation Trail. The western boundary is approximately followed by the Pacific Crest Trail, which is collocated with the Tahoe Rim Trail on the west side of Lake Tahoe. The Carson Range on the east side of Lake Tahoe is an IBA. A portion of the Desolation Wilderness and Mount Rose Wilderness are within the unit lands. Grass Lake Research Natural Area (N38º48’ W119º57’) is just west of Luther Pass on State Route 89. The 360-acre area is the largest floating Sphagnum bog in California, surrounded by red fir forest. Echo Lake (N38º50’ W120º3’) is part of the El Dorado Hydroelectric Project, operated by the El Dorado Irrigation District. The lake is a trailhead for the Desolation Wilderness. The Pony Express National Historic Trail crosses the forest between Meyers (N38º51’ W120º2’), Echo Summit (N38º49’ W120º2’), and Luther Pass (N38º47’ W119º57’). Thunderbird Lodge (N39º10’ W119º56’) is operated by the Thunderbird Preservation Society. Constructed in 1936, the lodge is the last and best example of a residential estate on Lake Tahoe built by San Francisco elite. The lodge was built by Capt. George Whittell, Jr., who owned 40,000 acres on the eastern shore of the lake and maintained it in an undeveloped state. This land is now mostly part of Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit.

 Tahoe National Forest

The Tahoe National Forest is 800,000 acres in both the Mother Lode and Truckee River watersheds on both sides of I-80. The Onion Creek Experimental Forest and Sagehen Experimental Forest are managed by the Pacific Southwest Research Station and are described separately. The Granite Chief Wilderness and North Fork American River National Wild and Scenic River are also within the forest and are also described separately. The Truckee Route of the California National Historic Trail crosses the forest from Donner Camp (N39º23’ W120º11’) to Mule Springs (N39º15’ W120º48’). The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail enters the forest at Miller Meadows (N39º2’ W120º14) and is co-located with the Tahoe Rim Trail north to Twin Peaks (N39º6’ W120º14’). The trail enters Granite Chief Wilderness at Twin Peaks (N39º6’ W120º14’) and leaves the wilderness at Granite Chief (N39º12’ W120º17’). It then crosses Donner Pass (N39º19’ W120º19’), Donner Summit (N39º21’ W120º20’), Meadow Lake Road (N39º25’ W120º27’), Henness Pass Road (N39º30’ W120º32’), State Route 49 at Sierra City (N39º35’ W120º37’), Summit Lake (N39º40’ W120º41’) on the Plumas National Forest boundary, and leaves the forest at Gibraltar (N39º43’ W120º46’).

American River Area

This portion of Tahoe National Forest is accessed by Foresthill Road east from Auburn. Near Foresthill is the Foresthill Forest Genetics Center (N39º5’ W120º44’), formerly used for genetic research and containing white fir, sugar pine, Douglas’fir, and red fir seed orchards. To the north is the Foresthill Off-Highway Vehicle Trails area (N39º7’ W120º46’).

The North Fork American River is a wild and scenic river from the forest boundary (N39º10’ W120º47’) upstream 24 miles to Green Valley (N39º15’ W120º24’). Sugar Pine Reservoir (N39º8’ W120º48’) is on North Shirttail Creek, a tributary to the North Fork American River. It is operated by the Foresthill Public Utility District, which acquired the reservoir in 2003 from the Bureau of Reclamation. The Joshua M. Hardt Memorial Trail follows the reservoir shoreline for three miles. Upstream of Sugar Pine, Big Reservoir, Morning Star Resort, California (N39º8’ W120º48’) is a privately operated campground resort on Forbes Creek within the Tahoe National Forest. Sugar Pine Point Research Natural Area (N39º15’ W120º32’) overlooks the North Fork American River and is 640 acres of ponderosa-sugar-white fir mixed conifer forest ecosystem.

Placer County Big Tree Grove Botanical Area (N39º3’ W120º34’) is 364 acres on Mosquito Ridge Road. It is the northernmost natural occurrence of the Sierra redwoods. The Big Tree National Recreation Trail (1.4 miles long) provides access. Grouse Falls Scenic Area (N39º6’ W120º37’) is 141 acres surrounding the highest cascading waterfall in California, on the North Fork of the Middle Fork American River, reached from Forest Highway 33. Lyon Peak/Needle Lake Research Natural Area (N39º12’ W120º18’) is a 740-acre roadless area north of Granite Chief Wilderness used for research on the mountain hemlock forest type. The Western States Pioneer National Recreation Trail crosses the forest from near Foresthill (N39º2’ W120º47’) east to Painted Rock (N39º13’ W120º11’), in the Squaw Valley area on State Route 89 near Lake Tahoe. The trail is 55 miles long and used for endurance riding.

French Meadows Reservoir (N39º7’ W120º27’) and Ralston Afterbay (N39º0’ W120º45’), both on the Middle Fork American River, are operated by the Placer County Water Agency on Tahoe National Forest lands. Both offer trails as well as water-based recreation.

South Yuba River Area

Meadow Lake Archaeological Area (N39º24’ W120º30’) is a 70-acre area on Meadow Lake recognized for its use as a former gold mining area and for prehistoric rock art. The South Yuba River flows through a steep-walled canyon within the Tahoe National Forest and is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from Lake Spaulding (N39º19’ W120º39’) 21 miles downstream to the forest boundary at New York Canyon (N39º19’ W120º54’). The river is a designated California State Wild and Scenic River. The South Yuba National Recreation Trail begins at Poorman Creek in the Tahoe National Forest (N39º21’ W120º49’) and extends downstream along the river to the forest boundary. The Pioneer National Recreation Trail extends from the forest boundary at Five Mile House east of Nevada City (N39º17’ W120º57’) parallel to State Route 20 to Bear Valley, and then north to Lake Spaulding (N39º20’ W120º38’). Also on State Route 20 is the Burlington Ridge Off-Highway Vehicle area (N39º19’ W120º50’); the Rock Creek Nature Trail (N39º18’ W120º56’), which goes by an old mill site on Forest Road 20-3-4; and the Omega Overlook (N39º19’ W120º45’), which provides a view of the Alpha and Omega Diggins.

The area between the South Yuba River and Middle Yuba River and surrounding Malakoff Diggins State Historical Park is known as San Juan Ridge (N39º23’ W120º56’). This is a historic hydraulic mining area and is also known for fossil mammal sites. In the upper area of the South Yuba watershed, I-80 climbs Donner Summit. On the way, Big Bend Visitor Center (N39º18’ W120º31’) provides access to Loch Leven Trail and scenic granite outcroppings and glacial erratics.

Elsewhere, the South Yuba River watershed is crisscrossed with complex hydroelectric developments of the Nevada Irrigation District and Pacific Gas and Electric. Jackson Lake (N39º28’ W120º34’) is at the headwaters of Jackson Creek, a tributary to Bowman Lake. It provides storage for the Bowman hydroelectric project. French Lake (N39º25’ W120º32’), is on Canyon Creek and provides storage for release into Bowman Lake. Faucherie Lake (N39º26’ W120º34’), is on Canyon Creek downstream from French Lake and provides storage for release into Bowman Lake. Sawmill Lake (N39º27’ W120º36’) is on Canyon Creek downstream from Faucherie Lake. It provides storage for release into Bowman Lake. Bowman Lake (N39º27’ W120º39’) is on Canyon Creek downstream from Sawmill Lake. It stores water for release to the Bowman powerhouse downstream of the dam. Bowman-Spaulding Conduit Diversion Dam (N39º27’ W120º40’) is on Canyon Creek immediately downstream from Bowman Lake and diverts water to the Spaulding No. 3 Project of Pacific Gas & Electric.

The Spaulding No. 3 development of Pacific Gas & Electric captures water from a series of creeks and routes it into the Bowman-Spaulding Conduit for hydroelectric generation at the Spaulding No. 3 Powerhouse on Spaulding Lake. Facilities on National Forest lands include Culbertson Lake (N39º25’ W120º37’), Lower Lindsey Lake (N39º25’ W120º38’), Feeley Lake and Carr Lake (both 39º24’ W120º38’), Rucker Lake and Fuller Lake  (both N39º21’ W120º39’), Fall Creek Diversion (N39º23’ W120º40’), Clear Creek Diversion (N39º23’ W120º41’), and Trap Creek Diversion (N39º22’ W120º41’). The Spaulding No. 1 and No. 2 Developments on National Forest lands include White Rock Lake (N39º25’ W120º23’), Meadow Lake (N39º24’ W120º30’), Sterling Lake (N39º21’ W120º29’), Fordyce Lake (N39º23’ W120º30’), Upper Peak Lake and Lower Peak Lake (both N39º18’ W120º26’), and Spaulding Lake (N39º20’ W120º38’).Between Spaulding, Bowman, and French Lakes is the Grouse Lake area (N39º25’ W120º35’), which is known for hiking trails. Water leaving Spaulding Lake through the powerhouses can be transferred to the Bear River watershed or the Deer Creek watershed. The South Yuba Canal leading to the Deer Creek area upstream from Nevada City is mostly on Tahoe National Forest land.

Middle Yuba River Area

The Middle Yuba River is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from Milton Reservoir (N39º31’ W120º35’) for 31 miles downstream to Our House Reservoir (N39º25’ W120º58’). The steep-walled canyon is 2,000 feet deep in places. One tributary, Macklin Creek (N39º30’ W120º36’) supports a population of the Pyramid Lake population of Lahontan cutthroat trout. This population was introduced to the west side of the Sierra divide.

The Bowman Development of the Nevada Irrigation District consists of reservoirs and diversion dams on Tahoe National Forest lands. On the Middle Yuba River is Jackson Meadows Reservoir (N39º30’ W120º33’). It can be reached from Forest Highway 7 over Henness Pass west of State Route 89. The Woodcamp Creek Interpretive Trail near Jackson Meadows (N39º29’ W120º33’) goes through a red fir forest. Downstream is Milton Reservoir (N39º31’ W120º35’), which diverts water through a tunnel to Bowman Lake on Canyon Creek, a tributary to the South Yuba River. Wilson Creek Diversion Dam (N39º31’ W120º35’) is on the Milton-Bowman aqueduct near Milton Reservoir and diverts creek water into the aqueduct and tunnel for delivery to Bowman Lake.

The Yuba River Development Project of Yuba County Water Agency includes three dams on Tahoe National Forest lands. Water is diverted from the Middle Yuba River by the Our House Diversion Dam (N39º25’ W121º0’). Water enters a tunnel and exits at the Log Cabin Diversion Dam on Oregon Creek (N39º26’ W121º3’). Water from Log Cabin Diversion is transferred via tunnel to New Bullards Bar Reservoir (N39º24’ W121º8’), which is on the Tahoe National Forest boundary with the Plumas National Forest.

North Yuba River Area

State Route 49 north from Nevada City provides access to Downieville and national forest lands along the North Yuba River. North of the crossing of the Middle Yuba River is the Oregon Creek Covered Bridge (N39º24’ W121º5’). New Bullards Bar Reservoir (N39º24’ W121º8’), is partially on Tahoe National Forest lands. There is a powerhouse at the reservoir. The reservoir is part of the Yuba River Development Project. An extensive trail system involving the 14-mile Bullards Bar Trail and connecting trails is on the south side of the reservoir.On the way to Downieville is Jouberts Diggins (N39º30’ W121º2’), where hydraulic mining continued until 1941.

North of Downieville near Canyon Creek is Devils Postpile Geological Area (N39º40’ W120º53’). This is a large vertical pillar of basalt rising above the surrounding landscape. A few miles to the east of Devils Postpile, Chimney Rock (N39º41’ W120º49’) is an unusual volcanic rock formation at the top of a 7000-foot mountain, accessible by hiking trail. East of Downieville, the Sierra Buttes (N39º36’ W120º39’) are the northernmost granite outcrop in the Sierra Nevada and support the southernmost occurrence of green spleenwort. Nearby is the Sand Pond Interpretive Trail (N39º37’ W120º37’) and the Kentucky Mine-Sierra City Museum (N39º34’ W120º37’), a project of Sierra County. West of Yuba Pass on State Route 49 is the Sierra Nevada Field Campus of San Francisco State University (N39º37’ W120º35’), where adult education courses are offered in the summer and research on the geology, flora, and fauna of the northern Sierra Nevada takes place.

Donner Summit and Truckee Area

The Alder Creek Camp Site of the Donner emigrant party (N39º23’ W120º11’) is on State Route 89 north of Truckee at the Donner Camp Picnic Area. The Tahoe National Forest site is part of the Donner Camp Sites National Historic Landmark, described separately. Donner Lake Rim Trail (N39º21’ W120º20’) connects the Donner Lake Interchange on I-80 with the Pacific Crest Trail at Donner Summit on I-80 and is a project of the Truckee-Donner Land Trust. The Donner Summit Canyon Trail (N39º19’ W120º19’) connects the west end of Donner Lake with Donner Pass, approximately along the route of the California National Historic Trail and original route of the Lincoln Highway, crossing both Tahoe National Forest and Truckee Donner Land Trust property. West of Donner Pass, Royal Gorge (N39º18’ W120º22’) is a hiking area developed by the Truckee Donner Land Trust using private property and Forest Service lands.

Glacier Meadows Geological Area (N39º20’ W120º20’) is 210 acres south of I-80 at Donner Summit. The area is known for scoured and polished granite with scattered large boulders and is accessed by a one-half mile trail from the I-80 rest stop. North of Donner Summit on the Pacific Crest Trail, Basin Peak (N39º23’ W120º22’) contains a nearly pure stand of mountain hemlock. Nearby Mount Lola (N39º26’ W120º21’) also supports mountain hemlock. Sagehen Headwaters Botanical Area (N39º25’ W120º19’) is a 78-acre glaciated cirque with a diversity of plants and aquatic systems.

On State Route 89 north of Truckee, Kyburz Flat (N39º30’ W120º14’) is a waterfowl nesting area, rock art, stage stop, and sheep camp site. The willow thickets in the flat are part of the Northern Sierra Meadows Important Bird Area. The willow thickets host Lincoln’s sparrow, Wilson’s warbler, and willow flycatcher. Cottonwood Creek Botanical Trail (N39º33’ W120º19’) is a one-half mile walk with plant identification information. There are three Bureau of Reclamation Reservoirs within this part of the forest, and Martis Creek Reservoir (N39º19’ W120º7’) of the US Army Corps of Engineers borders Tahoe National Forest land. Boca Reservoir (N39º24’ W120º6’), is on the Little Truckee River. It provides irrigation storage for the Washoe County Conservation District as part of the Truckee Storage Project, and is accessed from I-80. The dam is at the former Boca town site, which has a mining, lumbering, and railroad history. A one-half mile trail loops to the Boca Brewery, icehouse, and lumber mill sites. Prosser Creek Reservoir (N39º23’ W120º9’), is north of Truckee off of State Route 89 within the Tahoe National Forest. It is part of the Washoe Project, which stores water for fishery enhancement for Lahontan cutthroat trout and cui-ui spawning. Stampede Reservoir (N39º29’ W120º8’), is on the Little Truckee River north of Boca Reservoir. Part of the Washoe Project, it stores water for fishery enhancement for Lahontan cutthroat trout and cui-ui spawning. Between Boca and Stampede reservoirs, the Little Truckee River Terrace (N39º27’ W120º6’) was formed by glacial dam bursts which resulted in release of water from Lake Tahoe.

Toiyabe National Forest

Toiyabe National Forest, 645,000 acres in California and 2.5 million acres in Nevada, is administered together with the Humbolt National Forest and includes the eastern front of the Sierra Nevada from Mono Lake to northwest of Reno, as well as ranges in the Nevada Great Basin desert area. The southernmost point in the Sierra Nevada ecoregion is at Copper Mountain (N38º3’ W119º12’) and the northernmost point is at Roberts Canyon (N39º44’ W120º8’). Wilderness areas in the forest, described separately, include Carson-Iceberg, Hoover, Mokelumne, and Mount Rose.

West of Reno is the Dog Valley portion of the forest. Babbitt Peak proposed Research Natural Area, California (N39º36’ W120º6’), is 960 acres in the Toiyabe and Tahoe National Forests, with an exemplary forest of Washoe pine, red fir, western white pine, and mountain hemlock. The Truckee Route of the California National Scenic Trail crosses Dog Valley (N39º33’ W120º2’).

Southwest of Reno, State Route 431, the Mount Rose Scenic Byway, traverses the forest in an area known as the Carson Front. The Galena Creek Visitor Center, Nevada (N39º22’ W119º51’) is the trailhead for an extensive trail system at the boundary between the Sierra Nevada and Great Basin ecoregions. Trails lead into the Mount Rose Wilderness. The Tahoe Rim National Recreation Trail crosses this portion of the forest and goes in and out of the Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit-Toiyabe National Forest boundary. The Pony Express National Historic Trail crosses the forest at the Kingsbury Grade (State Route 207) (N38º58’ W119º52’).

The Alpine management area includes portions of Alpine County, California. Hope Valley (N38º46’ W119º56’) on the West Fork Carson River at the junction of State Routes 88 and 89 is considered eligible for national natural landmark status. East Fork Carson River is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from Silver King Valley (N38º36’ W119º40’) downstream to where it leaves the national system of public lands at a diversion dam (N38º53’ W119º41’) above the Lahonton Fish Hatchery. The eligibility continues upstream to the source in the Carson-Iceberg Wilderness. The California National Historic Trail, Carson Route, crosses the forest from Woodfords Station (N38º47’ W119º50’) to Carson Pass (N38º42’ W119º59’). The Walker River-Sonora Route of the California National Historic Trail crosses the forest from Little Lost Canyon (N38º30’ W119º30’) to Leavitt Meadow (N38º20’ W119º33’) and then enters the Hoover Wilderness. The Pony Express National Historic Trail crosses the forest between Woodford’s Station (N38º47’ W119º49’) and Luther Pass (N38º47’ W119º57’).

The Walker Management area includes the West Walker River watershed. Leavitt Meadows is part of the Sierra Meadows North Important Bird Area. The West Fork Walker River is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from Leavitt Meadows (N38º18’ W119º33’) downstream to where it leaves the national forest along US Route 395 at Walker (N38º30’ W119º27’).

In the East Walker River watershed, Twin Lakes (N38º10’ W119º20’) are on Robinson Creek near Bridgeport. Resorts and trailheads for the Hoover Wilderness are in this area. Just north of Twin Lakes, Buckeye Hot Springs (N38º14’ W119º20’) provide recreational soaking.

The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail passes through the wilderness areas of the forest (see separate descriptions under Mokelumne, Carson-Iceberg, and Hoover Wildernesses), as well as at Lost Lakes (N38º39’ W119º57’), Ebbetts Pass on State Route 4 (N38º33’ W119º49’), Wolf Creek Lake (N38º21’ W119º37’), and Sonora Pass (N38º20’ W119º38’).

Reservoirs and Hydroelectric Power Projects

This section includes reservoirs federally authorized (hydroelectric projects), reservoirs located on federal lands, and reservoirs constructed by federal agencies. Because of the large number of hydroelectric developments in the Sierra Nevada, reservoirs are listed by river basin.

American River, North Fork

Big Reservoir, Morning Star Resort, California (N39º8’ W120º48’) is a privately operated campground resort on Forbes Creek within the Tahoe National Forest.

Kelly Lake, Pacific Gas & Electric (N39º19’ W120º35’), is south of I-80 at Yuba Gap on Sixmile Creek, a tributary to the North Fork of the North Fork American River. The hydroelectric storage reservoir is part of the Drum No. 1 and No. 2 Development.

Lake Valley Reservoir, Pacific Gas & Electric (N39º18’ W120º35’) is on the North Fork of the North Fork American River south of I-80 at Yuba Gap. The hydroelectric storage reservoir is part of the Drum No. 1 and No. 2 Development.

Lake Valley Canal Diversion Dam, Pacific Gas & Electric (N39º18’ W120º38’) delivers water to the Drum Forebay, which in turn regulates water flow into the Drum powerhouses on the Bear River (see). This facility is part of the Drum No. 1 and No. 2 Development.

Sugar Pine Reservoir, Foresthill Public Utility District, California (N39º8’ W120º48’) is on North Shirttail Creek, a tributary to the North Fork American River, and is on Tahoe National Forest lands. The water supply reservoir was purchased by the utility district in 2003 from the Bureau of Reclamation, which originally constructed it.

Towle Canal Diversion Dam, Pacific Gas & Electric (N39º14’ W120º45’) is on Canyon Creek, a tributary to the North Fork American River. Water is diverted to the Alta Powerhouse on the Bear River (see). The small dam is along I-80 and is part of the Alta Development of Pacific Gas & Electric.

Newcastle Powerhouse, Pacific Gas & Electric (N38º50’ W121º6’) receives water from the South Canal (Wise Development) and discharges to Mormon Ravine on Folsom Lake.

American River, Middle Fork

Buck Island Reservoir, Sacramento Municipal Utility District (N39º0’ W120º15’), is on a tributary to the Rubicon River, but its water is diverted to Loon Lake by a tunnel. It is part of the Upper American River hydroelectric project in the Eldorado National Forest.

French Meadows Reservoir, Placer County Water Agency (N39º7’ W120º27’), is on the Middle Fork American River in the Tahoe National Forest. Hiking trails and campgrounds are on the reservoir.

Gerle Creek Reservoir, Sacramento Municipal Utility District (N38º58′ W120º24′), is on a tributary of the South Fork Rubicon River in the Crystal Basin area of Eldorado National Forest.

Hell Hole Reservoir, Placer County Water Agency (N39º4’ W120º24’) is a water supply and hydroelectric reservoir on the Rubicon River, a tributary to the Middle Fork American River, in Eldorado National Forest. It adjoins the Granite Chief Wilderness in the Tahoe National Forest. Hiking trails and campgrounds are on the reservoir.

Loon Lake, Sacramento Municipal Utility District (N38º59’ W120º19’) is on Gerle Creek, a tributary of the South Fork Rubicon River, and is part of the Upper American River hydroelectric project. It is also part of the Crystal Basin Recreation Area in the Eldorado National Forest.

Robbs Creek Dam, Sacramento Municipal Utility District (N38º57’ W120º23’) is on the South Fork Rubicon River. It is part of the upper American River hydroelectric development.

Rubicon Reservoir, Sacramento Municipal Utility District (N38º59’ W120º13’) is on the Rubicon River in the Desolation Wilderness. It is part of the Upper American River hydroelectric project.

Stumpy Meadows Reservoir, Georgetown Public Utility District (N38º54 W120º36’) is in the Eldorado National Forest east of Georgetown. Mark Edson Dam impounds Pilot Creek, a tributary to the Rubicon River, to create the reservoir.

American River, South Fork

Lake Aloha, El Dorado Irrigation District, California (N38º52’ W120º8’), is on Pyramid Creek in the Desolation Wilderness and is part of the El Dorado hydroelectric project on the South Fork American River.

Brush Creek Reservoir, Sacramento Municipal Utility District (NN38º49’ W120º37’), is on Forebay Road north of Pollock Pines in the Eldorado National Forest. Brush Creek is a tributary to the South Fork American River and is part of the Upper American River Hydroelectric Project.

Camino Reservoir, Sacramento Municipal Utility District (N38º50’ W120º32’), is on Silver Creek in the Eldorado National Forest and used as part of the Upper American River Hydroelectric Project.

Caples Lake, El Dorado Irrigation District (N38º42’ W120º3’) is on State Route 88 near Carson Pass in the Eldorado National Forest. It is operated as part of the El Dorado hydroelectric project on the South Fork American River.

Chili Bar Reservoir, Pacific Gas and Electric, California (N38º46’ W120º49’) is off State Route 193 north of Placerville, on the South Fork American River.

Ice House Reservoir, Sacramento Municipal Utility District (N38º50’ W120º21’), is on South Fork Silver Creek in the Eldorado National Forest. It is part of the Crystal Basin Recreation Area and Upper American River Hydroelectric Project.

Junction Reservoir, Sacramento Municipal Utility District (N38º51’ W120º27’), is on Silver Creek just downstream from Union Valley Reservoir and is visible from Forest Highway 31. It is part of the Crystal Basin Recreation Area and Upper American River Hydroelectric Project in the Eldorado National Forest.

Kyburz Diversion Dam, El Dorado Irrigation District (N38º46’ W120º19’) is on the South Fork American River. It diverts river water into the El Dorado Ditch, which runs along the south side of the River to Forebay Reservoir at Pollock Pines (N38º46’ W120º35’), which in turn diverts the water through Akin Powerhouse (N38º48’ W120º37’) before returning to the river.

Silver Lake, El Dorado Irrigation District (N38º40’ W120º7’) is on Silver Fork American River just off State Route 88 in the Eldorado National Forest. It is operated as part of the El Dorado hydroelectric project on the South Fork American River.

Slab Creek Reservoir, Sacramento Municipal Utility District (N38º46’ W120º41’), is on the South Fork American River northeast of Placerville in the Eldorado National Forest. It is part of the Upper American River hydroelectric development.

Union Valley Reservoir, Sacramento Municipal Utility District (N38º52’ W120º25’) is on Silver Creek in the Eldorado National Forest. It is the largest reservoir of the Upper American River hydroelectric project and the Crystal Basin Recreation Area. In addition to its watershed, water for the reservoir is diverted from Rubicon Reservoir via Buck Island Dam, Loon Lake, Gerle Creek Reservoir, and Robbs Peak Dam.

Part 2C continues with hydroelectric reservoirs in the Mother Lode including the Mokelumne, Truckee, and Yuba Rivers.

Sierra Nevada Forests, Part 1B: Plumas Area

This entry concludes the northernmost Sierra Nevada forests ecoregion compilation, with information about hydroelectric developments, wilderness areas, and state parks included.

Feather River, Middle Fork

Lake Davis, California State Water Project (N39º53’ W120º29’), is on Big Grizzly Creek, a tributary to the Middle Fork Feather River. The reservoir is north of Portola, with recreation areas managed by the Plumas National Forest.

Frenchman Lake, California State Water Project (N39º54’ W120º12’), is on Last Chance Creek, a tributary of the Middle Fork Feather River. It is north of Hallelujah Junction off of State Route 70. Recreation Areas are managed by the Plumas National Forest.

Feather River, South Fork

Little Grass Valley Reservoir, South Feather Water and Power Agency (N39º43’ W121º1’) is the uppermost storage reservoir of the South Feather Hydroelectric Development and is on the South Fork Feather River.

South Fork Diversion Dam, South Feather Water and Power Agency (N39º39’ W121º7’) sends water from the South Fork Feather River into a 2.7-mile tunnel for delivery to Sly Creek Reservoir. The reservoir also receives water from Slate Creek Diversion Dam in the North Yuba River watershed.

Sly Creek Reservoir, South Feather Water and Power Agency (N39º35’ W121º7’), is a major storage reservoir for the South Feather Hydroelectric Development on Lost Creek. Water is released to Lost Creek Reservoir.

Lost Creek Reservoir, South Feather Water and Power Agency  (N39º34’ W121º8’) diverts water to a tunnel which generates power is Woodleaf Powerhouse on upper Forbestown Diversion Reservoir.

Forbestown Diversion Dam, South Feather Water and Power Agency (N39º33’ W121º12’) is on the South Fork Feather River and diverts water to a powerhouse on Ponderosa Diversion Reservoir.

Ponderosa Diversion Dam, South Feather Water and Power Agency (N39º33’ W121º18’) is on the South Fork Feather River and diverts water through a canal and tunnel to Miners Ranch Reservoir.

Miners Ranch Reservoir, South Feather Water and Power Agency (N39º30’ W121º27’), stores water for release into Kelly Ridge Powerhouse below Oroville Dam.

North Yuba River

New Bullards Bar Reservoir, Yuba County Water Agency (N39º24’ W121º8’), is partially on Tahoe and Plumas National Forest lands. There is a powerhouse at the reservoir and also at Colgate. The Colgate powerhouse (N39º20’ W121º11’) receives water from the Colgate Tunnel from New Bullards Bar Reservoir diversion dam just downstream of New Bullards Bar Reservoir. The reservoir is part of the Yuba River Development Project. On the upper end of the reservoir on Deadwood Creek (N39º32’ W121º6’) is a hydro plant operated by Yuba County Water Agency.

Slate Creek Diversion Dam, South Feather Water and Power Agency, Plumas National Forest (N39º37’ W121º3’) sends water to Sly Creek Reservoir in the Feather River watershed.

National Trails System

California National Historic Trail

The Beckwourth Trail, Walker River-Sonora Route, Carson Route, and Truckee Routes of the California National Historic Trail cross the Sierra Nevada ecoregion. In addition, the emigrants used at least 11 alternate routes in addition to the four main routes. One alternate route that ultimately became the most popular was the Johnson Cutoff, which is roughly modern-day U.S. Route 50.

The Beckwourth Trail roughly follows State Route 70 from Beckwourth Pass (approximately 5,200 feet) to Quincy and the Oroville-Quincy Highway (Forest Highway 119) from Quincy via Bucks Summit (5,500 feet) to Bidwell Bar, submerged under today’s Oroville Lake. It was used beginning in 1851 after the Donner Disaster and was viewed as a low-elevation alternative to the Truckee Route. Sites on the Beckwourth Trail include Beckwourth Pass (N39º47’ W120º7’), Jim Beckwourth Museum and Cabin of the City of Portola (N39º49’ W120º25’), American Valley (Quincy, N39º56’ W120º57’), Bucks Lake (N39º52’ W121º11’), Mountain House (N39º42’ W121º20’), and Bidwell Bar (N39º33’ W121º26’) in Lake Oroville State Recreation Area. Except where indicated, all the sites are privately owned.

Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail

Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail extends 2,600 miles from Canada to Mexico, passing through some of the most scenic areas in California.

In the Plumas National Forest, the PCT enters the forest at Summit Lake (N39º40’ W120º41’), passes Pilot Peak (N39º47’ W120º52’), Middle Fork Feather River (N39º48’ W121º3’), Rock Creek Reservoir (N40º0’ W121º16’), and leaves the forest at Chips Creek (N40º2’ W121º18’). The trail continues in the Lassen National Forest and leaves the Sierra Nevada after passing Poison Spring (N40º3’ W121º24’).

National Recreation Trails of the Sierra Nevada

Feather Falls National Recreation Trail, Plumas National Forest, California (N39º39’ W121º16’) is a 4.5-mile walk to the sixth highest waterfall in the U.S. (640 feet). The trailhead is off of Lumpkin Road (N39º37’ W121º16’).

Hartman Bar National Recreation Trail, Plumas National Forest, California (N39º45’ W121º10’), is a 3.75-mile descent from Forest Highway 94 to the Middle Fork Feather Wild and Scenic River, providing scenic canyon views.

National Wild and Scenic River System

The Middle Fork Feather River, Plumas National Forest and National System of Public Lands, is a wild and scenic river from Lake Oroville (N39º38’ W121º17’) upstream for 78 miles to the Sierra Valley Channels at Beckwourth (N39º49’ W120º23’). Wild river designations are in the Bald Rock Canyon area just before Lake Oroville, Devil Canyon (N39º44’ W121º13’), and Franklin Canyon (N39º48’ W121º5’). Scenic river designations are near Milsap Bar (N39º42’ W121º16’) and English Bar (N39º52’ W120º50’). The upper river from the railroad tunnel at Sloat (N39º52’ W120º46’) upstream to Sierra Valley is a recreational river designation. The Sierra Valley is the largest intermountain valley in the Sierra Nevada, and is at 5,000 feet in elevation, with sagebrush scrub and freshwater marshes. It is an Important Bird Area for the black tern, Wilson’s phalarope, and willet. A large colony of white-faced ibis breeds in the valley.

National Wilderness Preservation System

Bucks Lake Wilderness, Plumas National Forest, California, is 23,700 acres between Bucks Lake and the North Fork Feather River. This northernmost wilderness in the Sierra Nevada features oak and red fir forests, meadows, and quaking bogs. The northernmost point is near French Bar at the confluence of the North Fork Feather and East Branch North Fork Feather River (N40º1’ W121º13’) and the southernmost point is near Bucks Lake (N39º53’ W121º9’). The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail crosses the wilderness from Belden in the north (N40º0’ W121º16’) for 13 miles to Bucks Summit in the south (N39º54’ W121º7’), mostly following a ridge which drops off precipitously to the east and north. The Mount Pleasant Research Natural Area (N39º57’ W121º11’) is within the wilderness and was established for research on red fir on granite substrate, as well as wet and moist meadows with bog flora.

State and Local Sites

Baker Forest, University of California-Davis (N39º55’ W121º4’) is 120 acres in Meadow Valley west of Quincy operated under special use permit in the Plumas National Forest. It is used as a forestry summer camp and for forest research. In addition to ponderosa and sugar pines and black oak, there are plantations of white fir, giant sequoia, and incense cedar.

Butte Creek Ecological Reserve, California (N40º5’ W121º25’) is 320 acres of wet meadows and lodgepole-Jeffrey pine habitat. It is surrounded by Lassen National Forest lands and is on Humbug Summit Road.

Coon Hollow Wildlife Area, California, is 730 acres of wet meadow and upland habitat surrounded by Lassen National Forest lands. Tracts at Coon Hollow (N40º3’ W121º27’) and Snag Lake (N40º5’ W121º26’) make up the wildlife area.

Crocker Meadows Wildlife Area, California (N39º51’ W120º23’) is 1,700 acres of montane chaparral in two units. Vegetation is sagebrush and bitterbrush with scattered black oak and pine. The site is on Plumas County Road 111 north of Beckwourth and adjoins the Plumas National Forest and National System of Public Lands.

Lassen Creek Conservation Area, Lassen Land and Trails Trust, California (N40˚22’ W120˚38’), is south of Susanville on Richmond Road. The 385-acre area provides winter forage of the Lassen mule deer herd.

Lake Oroville State Recreation Area, California (N39º32’ W121º29’) surrounds Lake Oroville on the Feather River, West Branch Feather River, North Fork Feather River, Middle Fork Feather River, and South Fork Feather River. The area is 15,500 acres with 167 miles of shoreline. Reservoir-oriented recreation is emphasized. A visitor center is at the dam, and trails are at Potter Point and Loafer Creek. The area borders the National System of Public Lands, Plumas National Forest, and Lassen National Forest. The recreation extends up the West Branch to Jordan Hill (N39º44’ W121º34’), the North Fork to Poe Powerhouse (N39º43’ W121º28’), the Middle Fork to Feather Falls (N39º38’ W121º17’), and the South Fork to Ponderosa Diversion Dam (N39º33’ W121º18’).

Plumas-Eureka State Park, California (N39º45’ W120º42’), is 4,400 acres west of the Mohawk Valley, accessible from state Route 89 at Graeagle. The major interpretive focus is as a museum of gold rush era California. The park preserves a historic gold mine on Eureka Peak, formerly Gold Mountain, which contained 65 miles of tunnels. There are hiking trails to the peak and to the adjoining Lakes Basin Recreation Area in the Plumas National Forest.

Private Sites

Heart K Ranch Preserve, Feather River Land Trust, California (N40º3’ W120º42’), is 884 acres of oak woodland and lakes in the Genesee Valley along Indian Creek east of Taylorsville. The property is surrounded by the Plumas National Forest.

Maddalena Preserve, Feather River Land Trust, California (N39º48’ W120º21’), is 575 acres of wetlands at the headwaters of the Middle Fork Feather River. It is adjacent to State Route 70 in the Sierra Valley.

 

Sierra Nevada forests, Part 1A: Plumas Area

Sierra Nevada forests (NA527), Part 1A: Plumas Area

Boundary Delineation

Sierra Nevada forests ecoregion is the most diverse temperate coniferous forest on Earth, supporting numerous species of pine and 75 giant sequoia groves. The Sierra Nevada forests are generally found between 35 to 40 degrees north latitude and 117 to 120 degrees west longitude in California and Nevada. The ecoregion is mostly in California with a small area of the Carson Range east of Lake Tahoe in Nevada included with the Sierra Nevada. Although various ecoregion delineation schemes differ in the boundaries of the Sierra Nevada, for the purposes of this discussion the southern boundary is considered to be Walker Pass and the northern boundary is considered to be the escarpment south of Susanville and Lake Almanor which drain to the North Fork Feather River. To the south of Walker Pass, the coniferous forest is sparser and transitions to that of the southern California mountains and foothills. To the north of Susanville and Lake Almanor is Mount Lassen, which is usually considered the southernmost of the Cascade volcanoes and is ecologically associated with the Cascade volcano chain. The eastern and western boundaries are clearer and there is general agreement on them. The western foothills are a chaparral-oak vegetation belt which quickly transitions to grasslands of the Central Valley and the eastern boundary is the Great Basin Desert (north of Independence) or Mojave Desert (Owens Lake and southward).

The ecoregion in this discussion has been further subdivided into four regions.

  1. Mother Lode. The northern Sierra Nevada is also called the Mother Lode, because it was the site of the gold discoveries which ultimately resulted in California being annexed by the U.S. and becoming a state. The southern portion of Lassen National Forest, Plumas National Forest, Tahoe National Forest, and Eldorado National Forest dominate the Mother Lode. The area extends south to Yosemite National Park area, but Yosemite is discussed separately. The westward-draining rivers are part of the Sacramento-San Joaquin freshwater ecoregion, one of the richest ecoregions west of the Rockies for fish, with 40 natives. It is the southernmost area for five anadromous fish and has five endemic fish genera, as well as a near-endemic salamander.
  2. Lake Tahoe and Northeastern Sierra (Carson-Truckee-Walker Rivers). The Lake Tahoe Area includes its own national forest area, the Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit, as well as the Toiyabe National Forest portion in the Sierra Nevada. This area generally drains to the Great Basin through the Truckee, Walker, and Carson Rivers. The Lahontan freshwater ecoregion corresponds to this area.
  3. Yosemite. The central Sierra Nevada is the Yosemite area, consisting of Yosemite National Park, Sierra National Forest, and Stanislaus National Forest, as well as the Mono Lake and Mammoth Lakes areas to the east of Yosemite. Mono Lake is in the Lahontan freshwater ecoregion, while Mammoth Lakes is in the Owens River drainage and part of the Death Valley freshwater ecoregion. Westward-draining streams are part of the Sacramento-San Joaquin freshwater ecoregion. This includes the Stanislaus, Tuolumne, and Merced Rivers.
  4. Sequoia. The southern Sierra Nevada includes the dramatic canyons of the Kern River and the tallest peaks culminating in Mount Whitney. This area is dominated by Kings Canyon National Park, Sequoia National Park, Giant Sequoia National Monument, Sequoia National Forest, and the southern portions of Inyo National Forest. Westward-draining streams are part of the Sacramento-San Joaquin freshwater ecoregion, while eastern slopes are part of the Death Valley freshwater ecoregion.

In Part I, the area of the Sierra Nevada forests around the Plumas and Lassen National Forests is discussed. This is the northern Mother Lode, including the Feather and part of the North Fork Yuba River watersheds.

National Forest (NF) System

The National Forest system in the Sierra Nevada forests ecoregion includes nine national forests; the Giant Sequoia National Monument; Kings River Special Management Area; Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit; Mono Basin National Forest Scenic Area; seven experimental forests, watersheds, and research facilities; and the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail, administered by the Forest Service. The trail is further described under the National Trails System section. Wilderness areas and national recreation trails within the national forest system are also described separately.

Challenge Experimental Forest

Challenge Experimental Forest (N39º28’ W121º12’) is 3,500 acres of Pacific ponderosa pine forest type between New Bullards Bar and Oroville Reservoirs in the Mother Lode. Experiments center on understory fuel reduction, tree spacing and forest sustainability. The elevation of the forest is about 2,500 feet, with the highest point Pike County Peak, at 3,700 feet. Access is provided by La Porte Road north of Maryville. The experimental forest is adjacent to the settlement of Challenge, which prospered surrounding a lumber mill between 1875 and 1887 (McDonald and Lahore 2013).

Lassen National Forest

Lassen National Forest, California, is 1 million acres, mostly in the eastern Cascades ecoregion. South of Susanville, Diamond Mountain (N40˚19’ W120˚42’) is the northern end of the Sierra Nevada and provides a scenic area overlooking the town. The Homer/Deerheart Scenic Area (N40˚14’ W120˚59’) is an escarpment south of Mountain Meadows Reservoir at the northern edge of the Sierra Nevada and contains three glacial lakes on Keddie Ridge. A hiking trail connects the three lakes.

A portion of the southern portion of Lassen National Forest is administered by the Plumas National Forest. This is known as the Flea Management Area. Paradise Lake (N39º51’ W121º35’) is operated by the Paradise Irrigation District. The dam and portions of the lake are on national forest lands. The lake has a 4.5-mile shoreline trail. To the south of Paradise Lake are two stands of McNab cypress (Hesperocyparis macnabiana) on national forest lands, one north of Magalia Reservoir and the other in the Concow Creek area (Mallek 2009). McNab cypress is a fire-dependent species endemic to California which has cones that only open when burned.

Plumas National Forest

Plumas National Forest, California, is 1.1 million acres. The forest includes the Bucks Lake Wilderness, Middle Fork Feather National Wild and Scenic River, Pacific Crest Trail, and Challenge Experimental Forest, all of which are described separately. The California National Historic Trail, Beckwourth Trail Route, crosses the forest from Beckwourth Pass to Lake Oroville, and is also described separately.

Eastern Escarpment

Washoe pine forests are in the northeastern portion of the forest overlooking the Great Basin, such as along Last Chance Creek. Other forests are of ponderosa pine, Jeffrey pine, and Douglas-fir. Last Chance Creek and the escarpment overlooking the Honey Lake valley (Diamond Mountain) are also known for petroglyph sites. Frenchman Lake (N39º54’ W120º12’), which is on Little Last Chance Creek, a tributary of the Middle Fork Feather River and part of the State Water Project, is in Little Last Chance Canyon north of Hallelujah Junction off of State Route 70. The Little Last Chance Canyon Scenic Area (N39º53’ W120º11’) is on Frenchman Lake Road (Forest Highway 176) downstream from Frenchman Lake. Adams Peak (N39º55’ W120º6’) and Thompson Peak (N40º16’ W120º33’) along the Diamond Mountain crest are maintained as primitive areas.

Beckwourth Area—Upper Reaches of the Middle Fork Feather River

The Lakes Basin Recreation Area (N39º42’ W120º41’) is on Forest Highway 24 between the Mohawk Valley and Sierra City. The glaciated landscape includes U-shaped canyons and glacial moraines. There are 20 lakes connected by hiking trails. Three rustic lodges—Elwell Lakes Lodge, Gold Lake Lodge, and Gray Eagle Lodge—offer accommodations. Frazier Falls (N39º42’ W120º39’) is accessible by a one-half mile hike on County Road 501. Long Lake (N39º42’ W120º41’) is a water supply reservoir for the town of Graeagle. The Red Fir Nature Trail (N39º42’ W120º37’) is a one-mile loop on the road to Mills Peak. Lake Davis (N39º53’ W120º29’), part of the State Water Project, is on Big Grizzly Creek, a tributary to the Middle Fork Feather River. The reservoir is north of Portola, with recreation areas managed by the Plumas National Forest.

South Fork Feather Area

On the South Fork of the Feather River within the Plumas National Forest, the South Feather Water and Power Agency has developed an extensive hydroelectric system. The uppermost facilities on the South Fork Feather River are at Little Grass Valley Reservoir (N39º43’ W121º1’). Downstream, the South Fork Diversion Dam (N39º39’ W121º7’) diverts water via a 2.7-mile tunnel to Sly Creek Reservoir (N39º35’ W121º7’). Sly Creek Reservoir also receives supplemental water from Slate Creek Diversion (N39º37’ W121º3’) via a 2.5-mile tunnel from the Yuba River watershed. Power is generated at the Sly Creek powerhouse and discharges into Lost Creek Reservoir (N39º34’ W121º8’). Lost Creek dam diverts water to the Woodleaf Tunnel which discharges at the Woodleaf Powerhouse on Forbestown Reservoir (N39º33’ W121º12’). From Forbestown, the water enters the Forbestown Power tunnel and discharges from a powerhouse into the reservoir created by Ponderosa Diversion Dam (N39º33’ W121º18’). Water is diverted to Miners Ranch Reservoir and a powerhouse below Oroville Dam outside of the national forest.

Southwest of La Porte, the Valley Creek Botanical Area (N39º40’ W121º2’) is 180 acres of old growth mixed conifers. The Yuba County Water Agency developed the New Bullards Bar Reservoir (N39º24’ W121º8’) on the North Yuba River. The reservoir partially occupies Plumas National Forest lands. The reservoir is part of the Yuba River Development Project. On the upper end of the reservoir on Deadwood Creek (N39º32’ W121º6’) is a hydro plant on Plumas National Forest lands operated by Yuba County Water Agency.

North of La Porte are the remains of gold mining towns, now included in the national forest. St. Louis (N39º42’ W120º56’) and Howland Flat (N39º43’ W120º53’) are on County Road 690. St. Louis was founded in 1852 and once had 900 residents all that remains is a cemetery. Howland Flat was founded in 1850 and had 1,200 residents along with hotels and breweries. Porter Flat (N39º42’ W120º51’) is reached by County Road 800 and was along Canyon Creek on the Tahoe National Forest boundary. Gibsonville (N39º44’ W120º55’) is on County Road 900 and also boasted a hotel, saloon, and bowling alley in the 1850s.

Middle Fork Feather Area

The Feather Falls Scenic Area (N39º39’ W121º17’) is a 5,350-acre area along the lower canyons of the Middle Fork. The largest is Feather Falls on the Fall River, the sixth highest in the U.S. at 640 feet and reached by a National Recreation Trail or by walking upstream from the shoreline of Lake Oroville. There are other waterfalls on the Feather River as well as Bald Rock Canyon. Overlooking the deep canyons of the Middle Fork are granite domes. One such unique batholith is Big Bald Rock (N39º39’ W121º20’), on Bald Rock Road north of Oroville Lake.

South of Quincy on Forest Highway 10 along Hopkins Creek (N39º46’ W120º50’), there is columnar jointing of basalt in hexagonal columns similar to what is visible at Devils Postpile National Monument near Mammoth Lakes further south. Little Volcano (N39º51’ W120º54’) is a dolomite outcrop with a cave and panoramic views on Forest Road 24N13.

North Fork Feather Area

Hydroelectric developments of Pacific Gas & Electric and the City of Santa Clara dominate the drive along State Route 70. A tunnel from Butt Valley Reservoir delivers water to Belden Forebay (N40º5’ W121º9’). Another tunnel delivers water to Rock Creek Reservoir (N39º59’ W121º17’), and subsequent hydroelectric tunnels deliver water to Cresta Reservoir (N39º53’ W121º21’), and Poe Reservoir (N39º50’ W121º26’). The jointly owned reservoirs of the City of Santa Clara and Pacific Gas & Electric (Bucks Lake Hydroelectric Project) include Three Lakes Reservoir (N39º58’ W121º13’), Bucks Lake (N39º54’ W121º12’), Lower Bucks Lake (N39º54’ W121º14’), and Grizzly Forebay (N39º53’ W121º17’). These hydroelectric facilities are also in the North Fork Feather watershed of the Plumas National Forest. On County Road 306 east of Butt Valley Dam are the historic mine site of Swiss Mine (N40º7’ W121º7’) and the gold mining town of Seneca (N40º7’ W121º5’).

The Butterfly Valley Botanical Area (40˚0’ W121˚0’) harbors four species of insectivorous plants in its 500-acre extent, including the California pitcher plant, two species of bladderwort, and sundews. It is also known for a diversity of orchids and lilies. Forest Road 25N12 crosses the botanical area, reached by turning off of State Route 70-89 north of Quincy.

On State Route 89 at Indian Falls is Soda Rock Geological Area (N40˚3’ W120˚58’), a travertine mineral spring. An old growth sugar pine stand (N39º55’ W120º58’) is just south of Quincy off of Forest Road 24N21. The Spanish Creek Mines (N39º57’ W121º2’) are on the Quincy-Oroville Road west of Quincy. North of Spanish Ranch on Forest Road 25N17 is the Bean Hill Mine (N39º58’ W121º5’). Both were hydraulic gold mining operations during the 1850s. Round Valley Reservoir (N40º7’ W120º58’), which is a water supply reservoir for the city of Greenville, includes a nature trail. Long Valley (N40º7’ W121º1’) is a waterfowl nesting area. Mount Hough-Crystal Lake (N40º3’ W120º53’) is a scenic site on County Road 403 north of Quincy. Devils Punch Bowl (N40º1’ W120º48’) is a volcanic crater with a pond on the slopes of Grizzly Peak.

Mud Lake Research Natural Area is in two units, and was established to protect disjunct stands of Baker Cypress, normally found in wetter forests. One stand is on Wheeler Peak (N40˚6’ W120˚42’) and another is six miles north (N40˚11’ W120˚41’). Kettle Rock (N40˚8’ W120˚44’) is maintained as a scenic and geologic site. Antelope Lake (N40º11’ W120º36’) is on Indian Creek, a tributary to the North Fork Feather River. It is reached from Forest Highway 172 (Janesville Grade) off of US Route 395 south of Susanville.  It is part of the State Water Project, and recreation areas are managed by the Plumas National Forest. West of Antelope Lake is the Kettle Rock-Taylor Lake area (N40º9’ W120º43’) noted for its scenic views. North of Antelope Lake is the Diamond Mountain Limited Vehicular Access area (N40º15’ W120º37’), established to protect eastside vegetation.

Reservoirs and Hydroelectric Power Projects

This section includes reservoirs federally authorized (hydroelectric projects), reservoirs located on federal lands, and reservoirs constructed by federal agencies. Because of the large number of hydroelectric developments in the Sierra Nevada, reservoirs are listed by river basin.

Feather River, North Fork

Antelope Lake, California State Water Project (N40º11’ W120º36’), is on Indian Creek, a tributary to the North Fork Feather River. Recreation areas are managed by the Plumas National Forest.

Mountain Meadows Reservoir, Pacific Gas & Electric, California (N40˚16’ W120˚57’), is also known as the Hamilton Branch hydroelectric development and is south of Westwood. Power is generated at the Hamilton Powerhouse (N40º16’ W121º5’) on Lake Almanor. It contains 5,000 acres of marsh and is high value waterfowl habitat. It is part of the Lake Almanor Important Bird Area for willow flycatchers and sandhill crane, which use the wet meadows.

Lake Almanor, Pacific Gas & Electric, California (N40º11’ W121º5’), is the major storage reservoir on the North Fork Feather River, extending over 28,000 acres, and is part of the Upper North Fork Feather River project. Water from Lake Almanor is diverted from the Prattville intake (N40º13’ W121º10’) into a tunnel for generation at the Butt Valley Powerhouse (N40º11’ W121º11’), at the upper end of Butt Valley Reservoir. It is part of the Lake Almanor Important Bird Area, hosting the largest population of willow flycatchers in California, along with greater sandhill cranes and several grebe species.

Butt Valley Reservoir, Pacific Gas & Electric, California (N40º7’ W121º8’), occupies 1,600 acres behind a dam on Butt Creek and stores water for release into the North Fork Feather River. Water is diverted through two 1.8-mile tunnels to the Caribou Powerhouses 1 and 2 (N40º5’ W121º9’) on the North Fork Feather River in the Plumas National Forest. The Caribou powerhouses discharge into Belden Forebay.

Belden Forebay, Pacific Gas & Electric, California (N40º5’ W121º9’), is a 42-acre reservoir on the North Fork Feather River in Plumas National Forest. It receives water from the Caribou Powerhouses and generates power at the Oak Flat powerhouse on site, and diverts water through a 6.3-mile tunnel to Belden Powerhouse (N40º0’ W121º15’). Belden Powerhouse is on the North Fork Feather River along State Route 70.

Rock Creek Reservoir, Pacific Gas & Electric, California (N39º59’ W121º17’), is 118 surface acres and receives water from the Belden Powerhouse. It serves as a diversion dam for a 6.5-mile tunnel to Rock Creek Powerhouse (N39º54’ W121º21’). State Route 70 is routed under the electrical switchyard, which tunnels under it. Both the reservoir and powerhouse facilities are along the North Fork Feather River and State Route 70.

Three Lakes, Pacific Gas & Electric, California (N39º58’ W121º13’), store water for delivery to Lower Bucks Lake. The lakes are in the Plumas National Forest and Bucks Lake Wilderness. Water is diverted into a pipeline which ends at Lower Bucks Lake.

Bucks Lake, City of Santa Clara, California (N39º54’ W121º12’) is on Bucks Creek, a tributary to the North Fork Feather River in the Plumas National Forest.

Lower Bucks Lake, City of Santa Clara, California (N39º54’ W121º14’), is on Bucks Creek and stores water for diversion into one of two tunnels. One tunnel ends at Grizzly Creek and the other at Grizzly Powerhouse (N39º53’ W121º17’). Grizzly Powerhouse discharges into Grizzly Forebay. These facilities are within the Plumas National Forest.

Grizzly Forebay, City of Santa Clara, California (N39º53’ W121º17’), is on Grizzly Creek and diverts water into a tunnel for delivery to Bucks Creek Powerhouse (N39º55’ W121º20’), which is on the North Fork Feather River. The reservoir is on Plumas National Forest land.

Cresta Reservoir, Pacific Gas & Electric, California (N39º53’ W121º21’), is a 95-acre reservoir on the North Fork Feather River, which receives water from the Rock Creek Powerhouse. Water is diverted into a four-mile tunnel for generation at Cresta Powerhouse (N39º50’ W121º25’). The powerhouse discharges to Poe Reservoir on the North Fork Feather River. The reservoir is partially on Plumas National Forest land.

Poe Reservoir, Pacific Gas & Electric, California (N39º50’ W121º26’), is 53 acres on the North Fork Feather River in the Plumas National Forest and receives water from Cresta Powerhouse. It diverts water into a 6.3-mile tunnel which ends at Poe Powerhouse (N39º43’ W121º28’) on the upper end of Lake Orovile.

Lake Oroville, California Department of Water Resources (N39º32’ W121º29’), is part of the state water project. The dam is the tallest in the U.S. at 770 feet. The Lake Oroville State Recreation Area surrounds the four major embayments of the reservoir, those along the West Branch Feather River, North Fork Feather River, Middle Fork Feather River, and South Fork Feather River.

(to be continued with hydroelectric projects on South Fork Feather River, trails, wilderness areas, and state and local sites)

Karri, Jarrah, and Mallee, Part II

The Southwest Australia savanna ecoregion is known for wildflower viewing in native vegetation remnants.  Scenic features include granite outcrops and large inland salt lakes, along with wave rocks.  The relatively wetter Southwest Australia woodlands ecoregion is jarrah forest, grading into wandoo and drier woodlands.  Scenic features include waterfalls along the Darling scarp, scenic drives, and granite outcrops.  In addition, the area is know for plant endemism, orchids, tree ferns and giant sundews.

Southwest Australia savanna (AA1209).  Widely spaced eucalyptus savanna merges into acacia (wattle) as it moves inland toward sandplains.  The northern portions of this ecoregion are famous for wildflowers including Banksia, kangaroo paws (Anigozanthos), Grevillea, and orchids.  This is known as the Kwongan heaths.  Nectar feeders such as possums and wallabies are part of the mammal fauna.  Today much of the center of this ecoregion is a vast wheat-growing area, at least to the west of the rabbit-proof fence.  However, the northern portions have extensive areas of native vegetation with heath and mallee vegetation.  This ecoregion is found in the Mid West, Great Southern, and Wheat Belt economic development regions.  There is one Ramsar site.

Ramsar Site:

Toolibin Lake Nature Reserve, Wheat Belt region (47).  A large Casuarina obesa-dominated wetland supports waterbirds such as freckled duck, cormorants, egrets, and night herons. This area is at the headwaters of the Arthur River.  Mounds in the lake floor support trees.  There are 25 species of breeding water birds.

Other sites:

Alexander Morrison National Park (NP), Mid West Region (39).  This Kwongan heath park in an area of lateritic sandplains is renowned for the diversity of wildflowers found here in the spring (August to November).  Banksia, Dryandra, Grevillea and many plants from the Myrtaceae family dominate the flora.

Badgebup Reserve of Shire of Katanning, Great Southern region (48).  This area of wandoo woodlands between Nyabing and Katanning is an IBA for Carnaby’s black-cockatoo, western rosella, and regent parrot.

Badgingarra NP, Mid West Region (32).  High breaks overlook sandplains in this park adjacent to the Brand Highway.  Flowers include yellow and black kangaroo paw, grass trees, banksias, and Badgingarra mallee.

Boyagin Nature Reserve, Wheat Belt region (49).  This area northwest of Pingelly is a large granite outcrop.  Trails lead through forests of powderbark, jarrah, and marri.  Fauna includes numbats and tammar wallabies.

Coomallo Creek Nature Reserve, Midwest region (50).  This area is an IBA for Carnaby’s black cockatoo, western corella, and regent parrot.

Dumbleyung Lake Nature Reserve, Great Southern and Wheatbelt Regions (51).  A large inland salt lake provides waterbird habitat.

Mount Gibson Sanctuary (Australian Wildlife Conservancy) and Charles Darwin Reserve (Bush Heritage), Mid West and Wheatbelt regions (52).  These private reserves on the western shore of Lake Moore are vegetated with acacia woodlands and mallee and are an IBA for malleefowl, western corella and inland dotterel.

Gillingarra Nature Reserve, Wheat Belt region (36).  In the Victoria Plains shire, Carnaby’s black-cockatoo nest in marri trees.  This is an IBA for the Carnaby’s black cockatoo, western corella, and red-capped parrot.

Koobabbie area, Mid West region (53).  This area east of Coorow is an IBA for Carnaby’s black-cockatoo, which nests in salmon gum woodlands, western corella, and regent parrot.  Rare flora of Eremophila and Halosarcia is also found here.

Korrelocking Nature Reserve, Wheatbelt region (54).  This reserve has open woodland of salmon gums.

Kwobrup Reserve of the Waters and Rivers Commission, Great Southern region (48).  This area of wandoo woodlands between Nyabing and Katanning is an IBA for Carnaby’s black-cockatoo, western rosella, and regent parrot.

LeSueur NP, Mid West and Wheat Belt regions (39).  This botanical area inland from Green Head is known for acacias, hibbertias, melaleucas, orchids, and kangaroo paw, among 800 other species of plants.  Jarrah grows here but takes the form of a mallee shrub. Mount LeSueur is a mesa; much of the rest of the park is the northernmost area of the Swan Coastal Plain.

Meckering, Wheatbelt region (55).  This town is the site of a 1968 earthquake which displaced the ground as much as 1.5 m and damaged the Goldfields Water Supply pipeline.

Moora area, Shire of Moora, Wheatbelt region (40).  The area around the town is an IBA for Carnaby’s black-cockatoo and western corella.

Sandford Rocks Nature Reserve, Wheatbelt region (56).  This area northeast of Westonia contains granite outcrops, thickets, and woodland on the transition to more arid flora.  Wattles are locally abundant.

Totadgin Conservation Park, Wheatbelt region (57).  Located 5 km south of Merredin, this is a granite outcrop area with wildflowers.  It has a small wave rock.

Walebing area, Wheatbelt region (40).  Adjacent to theGreat Northern Highway town of Walebing in Moora shire is a private IBA that supports 40 breeding pairs of Carnaby’s black cockatoo, plus western corella and regent parrot. 

Watheroo NP, Mid West and Wheatbelt regions (50).  The 44,000-ha park is on the wildflower-filled sandplains north of Perth, with Banksia and mallee shrubs. Jingemia Cave is in the park.

Welsh Nature Reserve, Wheatbelt region (11).  This area of mallee grading into acacia shrub is the Holleton IBA for malleefowl, rufous tree creeper, and blue-breasted fairy wren.

Yorkrakine Rock Nature Reserve, Wheatbelt region (58).  A large granite rock 30 km northeast of Tammin on theGreat Eastern Highwayis vegetated with York gum and Jam woodland.

 

Southwest Australia Woodlands (AA1210).  Jarrah is dominant in the Darling range, but inland is wandoo (Eucalyptus capillosa and powderbark (E. accedens).  Another eucalyptus is the marri tree.  Marri trees attract silvereyes and honeyeaters to feed on the nectar.  This ecoregion is found in the Great Southern, South West, and Wheatbelt economic development regions and includes local government areas on the east side of Perth.  There is one Ramsar site.

Ramsar Site:

Muir-Byenup System, Great Southern and South West region (59).  This interconnected swamp is the largest natural sedge land in Western Australia and is an IBA, supporting 51,000 water birds, including Australian shelduck and Australasian bittern.  It is also known for its orchid flora.

 

Other sites:

Avon Valley NP, Wheat Belt region (60).  The park includes rapids and granite boulders along the Avon River, along with Emu Springs Falls on a tributary stream.  It is the northern limit of the jarrah forest and contains wandoo woodlands.  Wildflowers include Grevillea and fringed lily. 

Beelu NP, Mundaring and Kalamunda shires (61).  The Perth Hills National Parks Centre is located within this jarrah forest park.  Other notable flora are marri, grass tree (Xanthorrhoea), and Banksia.  The park is part of the Mundaring-Kalamunda IBA for Baudin’s black-cockatoo.

Bindoon-Julimar, Wheatbelt region (60).  This area northwest of Toodyay is an IBA for Carnaby’s black-cockatoo and red-capped parrot.  It is the largest nesting area for the cockatoo in southwestern Australia. 

Boyagin Nature Reserve, Wheat Belt region (49).  This area northwest of Pingelly features a large granite outcrop.  Trails lead through forests of powderbark, jarrah, and marri.  Fauna includes numbats and tammar wallabies.

Calingiri, Wheatbelt region (62).  This is an IBA for Carnaby’s black-cockatoo and western corella.

Dryandra Woodland, Wheatbelt region (63).  This area includes scenic drives and numerous hiking trails, along with the Barna Mia animal sanctuary.  Unusual marsupials include numbat, woylies, tammar wallabies, and kangaroos.  Birds include the mound-building malleefowl.  The location is 22 km northwest of Narrogin on the Albany highway.

Dwellingup Forest Heritage Center, Peel region (64).  This area in the jarrah forest showcases the forest heritage ofWestern Australia and contains a canopy walk and part of the Murray River.

John Forrest NP, Mundaring shire (61).  This park in jarrah forest vegetation has granite outcrops fringed by heaths and is part of the Darling Range Regional Park.  Several waterfalls and an 1893 railroad tunnel are within the park.

Gidgegannup State Forest, Swan local government area (61).  This Darling Range area is an IBA for Carnaby’s black-cockatoo, Baudin’s black-cockatoo, and red-capped parrot.

Gillingarra Nature Reserve, Wheat Belt region (36).  In the Victoria Plains shire, Carnaby’s black-cockatoo nest in marri trees.  This is an IBA for the Carnaby’s black cockatoo, western corella, and red-capped parrot.

Golden ValleyTree Park, South West region (65).  This is a 60-ha arboretum near Ballingup.  The Bibbulmun track runs through the park.

Gooseberry Hill NP, Kalamunda shire (61).  The scenic Zig-Zag Drive 16 km east of Perth provides views of the Swan Coastal Plain.  It is part of the Mundaring-Kalamunda IBA for Baudin’s black-cockatoo.

Greenmount NP, Mundaring shire (61).  Part of the Darling Range regional park, this area has forests of the eucalypts jarrah, marri, and wandoo, and is adjacent to John Forrest NP.

Hassel NP, Great Southern region (66).  Located near Mount Manypeaks, this park preserves a population of Brown’s banksia.

Helena NP, Wheat Belt region (67). Mount Dale provides views and the Bibbulmun Track provides hiking opportunities in this park near Lake C.Y. Connor.  The park is to the west of Wandoo NP.

Jalbarragup area, South West region (65).  The area to the west of Nannup along the Blackwood River is an IBA for Carnaby’s black cockatoo, Baudin’s black-cockatoo, and red-capped parrot.

Kalamunda NP, Kalamunda shire (67).  Located 25 km from Perth, this area of jarrah, marri, and wandoo forest contains part of the Bibbulmun Track and is part of the Mundaring Kalamunda IBA for Baudin’s black-cockatoo.

Kep Track, Wheatbelt region (61).  This 75-km bicycle and hiking trail extends from Mundaring Weir to Northam along the route of the Goldfields Water Supply Pipeline (Golden Pipeline).

Korung National Park, Kalamanda Shire (68).  Located 45 minutes from Perth, this area includes part of the Munda Biddi Trail.  It is also known as the Pickering Brook NP and is part of the Araluen-Wungong IBA for Baudin’s black-cockatoo and Carnaby’s black cockatoo.

Lane-Poole Reserve, South West region (69).  This 55,000-ha park includes the Murray River and jarrah forest.  To the east are wandoo woodlands.  The Bibbulmun track and Munda Biddi trails cross the area.

Lesmurdie Falls NP, Kalamunda Shire (68).  Located east of Perth on the Darling Scarp, this park is named for a 50-m waterfall.  It is mostly heath vegetation but is also forested with wandoo, jarrah, and marri trees.

Midgegooroo NP, Kalamunda Shire (68).  This is a jarrah forest area at Canning Dam east of Perth on the Brookton Highway. It is also known as the Canning NP and is part of the Araluen-Wungong IBA for Baudin’s black-cockatoo and Carnaby’s black cockatoo.

Mount Manypeaks Nature Reserve (20).  See Waychinicup NP.

Lake Pleasant View and North Sister Nature Reserves, Great Southern region (69).  This area northeast of Albany and northwest of Mount Manypeaks contains freshwater sedge wetlands around three lakes, providing an IBA for the Australasian bittern.

Porongurup NP, Great Southern region (70).  This is a 12-km-long range of granite domes 40 km north of Albany.  Jarrah covers lower slopes, while karri trees are on the upper ones.  The humid karri forests in the park are known for 65 species of orchids. The park is known for outstanding endemism in heaths legumes, and insectivorous plants. Hiking trails lead throughout the park, including to a viewing platform atop Castle Rock.  Nearby at MountBarkeris a Banksia farm with 78 types of the Australian plant.

St. John Brook Conservation Park, South West region (65).  Located northwest of Nannup, this area features a rail-trail and the Munda Biddi trail.  Trees are jarrrah, marri, and swamp peppermint.

Scott NP, South West region (22).   This is an access area to the Blackwater River, which is popular for canoeing.

Serpentine NP, Peel region (71).  A waterfall along the Darling Scarp at the Serpentine River is one feature of this 4,300-ha park. The forest is jarrah, marri, and wandoo, but rare species of restricted-range eucalyptus trees are found here, and tree ferns dot the moister areas of the forest, and giant sundews are found in the park.  The Munda Biddi Trail passes through the park.  Together with the North Dandalup Nature Reserve, this park is an IBA for the Baudin’s black-cockatoo, Carnaby’s black-cockatoo, and red-capped parrot.

Stirling Range NP, Great Southern region (9).  This 65-km-long mountain range rises to 1,000 m and hosts 1,500 species of plants.  Mallee heath is the dominant plant community.  There are abundant flowering shrubs, including Darwinia, and 123 orchid species.  Six trails lead to mountain peaks.  Bluff Knoll, the highest peak, also has one of the highest cliffs in Australia.  There are endemic land snails and mygalomorph spiders.  The area is an IBA for Carnaby’s black-cockatoo, western whipbird, and Baudin’s black-cockatoo.

Tone-Perup Nature Reserve, South West region (72).  Approximately 50 km east of Manjimup is a 53,000-ha nature reserve in the jarrah and wandoo forests.  It is known for rare nocturnal marsupials such as the chuditch, woylie, and tammar wallaby.

Towerrining Lake Nature Reserve and Moodiarrup Swamps, Great Southern region (73).  To the south of Darkan is a  brackish lake and swamps that are an IBA for blue-billed duck and other waterbirds.

Two Peoples Bay Nature Reserve (20).  This area between Gull Rock NP and Waychinicup NP provides habitat for 12 rare animals, including noisy scrub-bird, western bristlebird, and Australasian bittern, as well as the mammals Gilbert’s potoroo, western ringtail possum, and quokka.  The reserve is an IBA for noisy scrub-bird, western bristlebird, and western whipbird.

Walyunga NP, Swan local government area (74).  This 1,800-ha park is located 40 km northeast of Perth in the upper Swan River valley.  It is located on the Darling Scarp and is a whitewater canoe area.  In addition, it is known for wildflower displays in the extensive heaths—hakeas, grevilleas, isopogons, petrophiles, and verticordias are common.  Forests are of wandoo, marri, and jarrah.

Wandoo NP, Wheatbelt region (75).  This 44,000-ha park contains old-growth wandoo forest and granite outcrops.  The park is part of The Lakes IBA for Baudin’s black-cockatoo and Carnaby’s black-cockatoo.  The park is to the east of Helena NP.

Waychinicup NP, Great Southern region (20).  Located on both sides of Mount Manypeaks Nature Reserve, this park has the granite-lined outlet of the Waychinicup River and rare mammals—quenda, western ringtail possums, and quokkas.  Rare birds include the noisy scrub-bird and western ground parrot.  The park is an IBA for noisy scrub-bird, western bristlebird, and western whipbird.

Wellington NP, South West region (76).  This 17,000-acre park preserves jarrah, marri, and yarri forests in the Collie River valley east of Bunbury.  The Wellington Discovery Forest is within the park.  A large jarrah tree is at King Jarrah.  The Munda Biddi Trail passes through the park.

Yelverton NP, South West region (27).  Located at the junction of three ecoregions, this park contains native forests with a high concentration of rare flora.

 Freshwater Ecoregions of the World

Australia and Pacific Region

Temperate Coastal Rivers

801. Southwestern Australia.  Stretching along the entire coastline in this map area but only extending a short distance inland, this ecoregion includes the perennial streams from the Arrowsmith River(north of the map area) to Fitzgerald River National Park at the eastern map boundary.  Major rivers from north to south and west to east on the map are:

  • Hill River, draining the northern Swan coastal plain
  • Moore River, draining areas north ofPerth
  • Swan River, draining much of the Wheatbelt before entering the sea atPerth
  • Serpentine River
  • Murray River
  • Margaret River, the center of a wine region
  • Blackwood River, draining the Toolibin Lake Ramsar site
  • Warren River
  • Frankland River
  • Kalgan River
  • Pallinup River
  • Gairdner River
  • Phillips River (ephemeral)

 

There are 15 fishes in eight families, and there is an endemic family, the salamanderfish family, in the aquatic fauna.  More permanent rivers lead to a diverse fish fauna of Galaxiidae, perches, and eel-tailed catfish (Plotosidae) familes.  There are also endemic turtles and crayfishes. 

 

Xeric Freshwaters and Closed Basins

804.  Paleo.  This area has isolated saline lakes but no permanent, fish-inhabited waterways and includes inland portions of the Mid West, Wheatbelt, and Esperance-Goldfields regions.

 

Marine Ecoregions of the World

Temperate Australia Realm,Southwest Australian Shelf Province

209.  Leeuwin.  Found south of Perth and along the south coast of Australia.  Sites exemplifying this ecoregion are: 

Eclipse Island Nature Reserve, Great Southern Region (16).  This island is an IBA for flesh-footed shearwater, great-winged petrel, and little penguin.

Ngari Capes Marine Park (77).  Located offshore of Leeuwin-Naturaliste NP, this area includes part of Geographe Bay and Flinders Bay.  Exposed headlands and boulder fields plunge to the sea, which has offshore kelp-covered reefs.  Sea lions and whales may be viewed.  The leafy seadragon, a protected species, is found in the area.  The Hamelin Bay Wreck trail passes five shipwrecks.

Rottnest Island, Rottnest Island Authority, off of Perth(46).  This 11-km-long island is most known for the globally threatened mammal, the quokka.  It also contains six permanent salt lakes and is an IBA for fairy tern, banded stilt, and wedge-tailed shearwater.  Offshore the island is a notable area for watching whales and dolphins and for snorkeling.

Shoalwater Islands Marine Park, Rockingham local government area (44). Penguin Island Conservation Park supports a breeding colony of little penguins.  It is accessible by ferry and includes walking trails.  Other limestone islands support seabird breeding.  Offshore are dolphins and sea lions.

Swan Estuary Marine Park, Perth (28).  Mudflats, seagrass beds, sedges, and saltmarsh support migratory wading birds, including the red-necked stint.

Walpole and Nornalup Inlets Marine Park, South West Region (24).  The two inlets are encircled by Walpole-Nornalup NP and support 50 species of marine fish.  The inlets can be viewed from the Bibbulmun Track and are known for canoeing. 

 

Temperate Australia Realm, West Central Australian Shelf Province

211.  Houtman.  Found from Perth northward to Shark Bay.  The following sites exemplify this ecoregion:

Carnac Island Nature Reserve, Fremantle (34).  Between Garden and Rottnest Islands, this is a haulout area for sea lions.

Jurien Bay Marine Park, offshore of MidWest and Wheatbelt regions (78).  The marine waters offshore fromWedge Island north to Green Head are part of this reserve on the Turquoise Coast.  The reserve is offshore of the Namburg (23) and LeSeuer (16) National Parks.   Offshore reefs create sheltered lagoons which contain extensive seagrass beds.  The area is viewed as temperate and there are no coral reefs.  There are about 15 groups of offshore islands within the reserve that provide breeding areas for sea lions and seabirds.

Marmion Marine Park, offshore of Wannaroo (79).  Extending fromTrigg Island to Burns Beach, this park provides diving areas including offshore rocks, ledges, and caves.  Seabirds on offshore rocks, marine mammals, and whales are present.

 

References

Abell, Robin and 27 others.  2008.  Freshwater Ecoregions of the World:  A New Map of Biogeographic Units for Freshwater Biodiversity Conservation.  Bioscience 58:403-414.

Australian Heritage Database.  www.environment.gov.au/heritage (accessed July 2, 2011).

BirdLife International. 2012.  IBA Factsheets.  Downloaded from http://www.birdlife.org on 9 September 2012.

Birds Australia.  http://www.birdata.com.au/iba.vm (accessed 7/2/11)

Gibbons, Bob.  2011.  Wildflower Wonders:  The 50 Best Wildflower Sites in the World. Princeton University Press and New Holland Publishers.

Olson, David M., et al., 2001.  Terrestrial Ecoregions of the World:  A New Map of Life on Earth.  BioScience 51:933-938.

Spalding, Mark D. and 14 others.  2007.   Marine Ecoregions of the World:  A Bioregionalization of Coastal and Shelf Areas.  Bioscience 57:573-583.

Tourism Western Australia.  www.westernaustralia.com (accessed 7/2/2011)

Watson, Alexander, Simon Judd, James Watson, Anya Lam, and David Mackenzie.  2008.  The Extraordinary Nature of the Great Western Woodlands.  The Wilderness Society of Western Australia..

Western Australia Department of Environment and Conservation.  Park Finder.  http://www.dec.wa.gov.au/ (accessed  7/2/11).

World Heritage List.  http://whc.unesco.org/ (accessed 7/2/2011).

 

Karri, Jarrah, and Mallee, Part I

Location of Sites Described in Text

Some of world’s tallest trees, a wildflower paradise, and the rabbit-proof fence 

I.  Map boundaries: 30 to 40 degrees South; 110 to 120 degrees East

II.  Country (Provinces–Regions): Australia (Western Australia—Goldfields-Esperance, Great Southern, MidWest, Peel, South West, and Wheat Belt economic development regions; local government areas surrounding Perth).

III.  Overview

This map area includes all of the Great Southern, Peel, and South West economic development regions, most of the Wheat Belt region, and parts of the Esperance-Goldfields and Mid West regions. Perth and its surrounding local government areas are also included.  All of the area is Mediterranean in climate, with winter rains heavy enough to support forests in the southwest.  The rains gradually decrease to the inland and northeast, supporting woodlands and savannah.

Along the southwest coast is the karri forest (ecoregion AA 1204), made up of tall evergreen eucalyptus trees.  Inland is the jarrah forest (1210), also a tree-sized eucalyptus species, and further inland the vegetation grades to a savannah-like eucalyptus and melaleuca shrub area.  The Southwest Australia savanna ecoregion (1209) is a wildflower viewing region.  Showy flowers of the Proteaceae plant family are common.  The region is characterized by winter rains, which create carpets of wildflower displays.  The mallee vegetation (1202) is characterized by shrubs with a lignotuber, a storage root that is adapted to sprouting after a fire.  To the northeast of the mallee and savannah areas is the eucalypt-mulga line, the boundary between eucalyptus-dominated vegetation and acacia-dominated desert vegetation.  The Coolgardie woodlands (ecoregion 1201) of the northeastern Wheat Belt is this transitional desert area.

In the early 1900s, the Western Australia government made a concerted effort to allocate large sections of this area east of Perth for farming.  The result was the vast ‘wheatbelt’ region that dominates the center of the map.  However, these allocations were mostly made west of the rabbit-proof fence.  In 1983, land allocations were discontinued, leaving a contrast visible on maps between the cultivated area and vast Mediterranean woodlands to the east (Watson et al. 2008).

The rabbit-proof fence itself was conceived as a 2,000-mile coast-to-coast barrier to rabbits, which were overrunning Australia and moving west in the early 1900s.  The fence did not serve as a barrier to rabbits, who were found west of the fence shortly after it was completed.  Two other barriers were built, one further to the west and another to the north, but they failed to contain rabbits.  The rabbit population was later stabilized by diseases.  However, the fence did prevent kangaroos and emus from causing crop damage.

The fence itself has become famous in studies of global climate change.  Following the extensive clearing for agriculture, rainfall over the cultivated areas decreased.  However, clouds continue to form to the east of the fence in a noticeable line.  From a meteorological standpoint, this is thought to be due to the heterogeneous nature of the native woodland.  Forests are taller than crops and tend to change wind speeds in ways that encourage cloud formation, it is hypothesized (http://honeybeesandhelium.com/2012/07/13/the-bunny-fence/).

To the west of the rabbit-proof fence is the Wheatbelt, created by the availability of water from the Goldfields Water Supply Scheme (Golden Pipeline).  This historic civil engineering landmark and national heritage site transfers water from the Mundaring Weir eastward to the Wheatbelt.  The original 560-km-long aboveground structure was completed in 1903 as the first major steel pipeline in the world.  It extends from Mundaring Weir near Perth to Kalgoorlie to the east of the map area.  Various sites along the pipeline contain museums and interpretive sites, and a bicycle trail follows the pipeline from Mundaring Weir to Northam through the jarrah forest area.

Two other long-distance trails are of note in the map area.  The Bibbulmun track is a long-distance walking path from Kalamunda to Albany, a distance of 963 km traversing the jarrah and karri forest regions.  The Munda Biddi bicycle trail extends 1,000 km from Mundaring to Albany along a similar, but not the same, route as the Bibbulmun track.  Munda Biddi is the longest off-road bicycle trail in the world.

IV Terrestrial Ecoregions

A.  Coolgardie woodlands (AA1201).  This arid area in the northeast of the map area is transitional to desert and supports mallee scrub.  Soils are low in nutrients and high in salinity.  Low-lying heath shrubs of Eremophila are characteristic.  This ecoregion is mostly east of the rabbit-proof fence and contains a predominance of native vegetation.  It is considered a biodiversity hotspot.  This ecoregion includes parts of the Wheatbelt and Esperance-Goldfields economic development regions.

Sites in this ecoregion include:

Karroun Hill Nature Reserve, Mid West region (1).  Located on the eucalypt-mulga line, this area is an IBA for malleefowl, rufous tree creeper, and regent parrot.

B.  Esperance mallee (AA1202).  East of Albany is a plain with granitic and quartz outcrops which supports shrubby vegetation of mallee and proteaceous scrub.  The rabbit-proof fence runs northwest to southeast through this ecoregion, separating a more heavily cultivated area to the west from the great western woodlands to the east.  This ecoregion is found in the Esperance-Goldfields, Great Southern, and Wheat Belt economic development regions.

Sites in this ecoregion include:

Biosphere Reserve:

Fitzgerald River National Park (NP), Esperance-Goldfields and Great Southern economic development regions (2).  This 329,000-acre area consists of a chain of isolated peaks called the Barren Range, an upland plain, a marine plain, and rugged coastal cliffs.  The major habitat is mallee heath of Eucalyptus tetragonia and Banksia species.  The park is an IBA for Carnaby’s black cockatoo, western bristlebird, malleefowl, western whipbird, and western ground parrot.  The park has the largest number of animal species of any area in Western Australia, along with 1,800 plant species, 62 of which are endemic.  The major visitor site is Point Ann.

Other sites in this ecoregion include:

Dragon Rocks Nature Reserve, Wheatbelt region (3).  This largest remnant of mallee in the Wheatbelt is an IBA for Carnaby’s black cockatoo, malleefowl, and western rosella.  Mammals include honey possum and western pygmy possum.

Dunn Rock Nature Reserve, Wheatbelt region (4).  This mallee shrubland area is an IBA for Carnaby’s black cockatoo, maleefowl, and red-capped parrot.

Greaves Road Nature Reserve, Great Southern region (5).  The eucalyptus woodland to the northeast of Stirling Range NP is the East Borden IBA for Carnaby’s black-cockatoo.

Frank Hann NP, Esperance-Goldfields region (6).  Mallee vegetation is found on deep sand plains in this Mediterranean woodland and heathland park.  Notable flowers are Banksia and featherflowers.

Lake King Nature Reserve, Wheatbelt region (4).  This mallee shrubland area is an IBA for Carnaby’s black cockatoo, malleefowl, and red-capped parrot.

Lake Magenta Nature Reserve, Great Southern and Wheatbelt regions (7).  This 132,000-acre area of mallee provides habitat for malleefowl and six species of mallee-restricted birds—regent parrot, western rosella, red-capped parrot, blue-breasted fairy wren,  purple-gaped honeyeater, and western yellow robin.

Mulkas Cave, Wheatbelt region (8). This granite outcrop and rock art site near Wave Rock is bigger than the outcrop at Wave Rock and contains 450 stencils and hand prints.

Pallarup Nature Reserve, Wheatbelt region (4).  This is an area of remnant bushland around a lake and an IBA for Carnaby’s black cockatoo, malleefowl, and red-capped parrot.

Stirling Range NP, Great Southern region (9).  This 65-km-long mountain range rises to 1,000 m and hosts 1,500 species of plants, making it a wildflower mecca.  The open jarrah or wandoo forests feature abundant flowering shrubs, including Darwinia, and 123 orchid species.  Six trails lead to mountain peaks which may have snow in winter.  There are endemic land snails and mygalomorph spiders.  The area is an IBA for Carnaby’s black-cockatoo, western whipbird, and Baudin’s black-cockatoo.

Wave Rock, Wheatbelt region (10).  This 15-m-high rock formation near Hyden appears to be a crashing wave and is multi-colored.

Welsh Nature Reserve, Wheatbelt region (11).  This area of mallee grading into acacia shrub is the Holleton IBA for malleefowl, rufous tree creeper, and blue-breasted fairy wren.

 

C.  Jarrah-Karri forest and shrublands (AA1204).  This is the forest of wetter areas of southwestern Australia and is found on a narrow belt along the coast from Albany west to Margaret River.  The wettest forest is of karri, or Eucalyptus diversicolor, which is an evergreen and the third tallest tree in the world, growing to 90 m.  Karri trees live 350 years.  Flowering karri trees attract purple-crowned lorikeets to feed on nectar.  As rainfall and nutrients decrease inland, jarrah forests (Eucalyptus marginata) and marri forests (Eucalyptus calophylla) are found.  The flora and fauna is highly endemic.  There are endemic pitcher plants, frogs, worms, and crayfish.  This ecoregion is found in the coastal areas of the Great Southern and South West economic development regions.

The Karri Forest Explorer Drive near Pemberton, South West region, highlights tall karri trees (up to 90 m) and passes by Beedelup NP,Big Brook Forest, Gloucester NP, and Warren NP.    The westernmost karri forest is in Leeuwin-Naturaliste NP.

Sites in this ecoregion include:

Beedelup NP, South West region (12).  Located on the Vasse Highway west of Pemberton, the park contains lush karri forest and a waterfall.  Understory plants include peppermint (Agonis), Darwinia, and Acacia.  The park is on the Karri Forest Explorer Drive.

Brockman NP, South West Region (13).  Located between Pemberton and Northcliffe and adjacent to Warren NP, the park has karri and marri forest.

West Cape Howe NP, Great Southern Region (14).  Trails lead to the southernmost point in Western Australia.  There are black cliffs and habitat for the Albany pitcher plant.  The Bibbulmun Track traverses the park.

D’Entrecasteaux NP, South West Region (15).  Stretching along the coast for 130 km from Augusta to Walpole, this 117,000-ha park has coastal cliffs, sand dunes, wildflower heaths, and karri forest.  The mouths of the Donnelly, Gardner, Shannon, and Warren Rivers are in the park.  Visitor sites include the Yeagarup Dunes, 10 km in length; Point D’Entrecasteaux, with limestone cliffs; Mount Chudalup, a large granite outcrop with karri and marri forest; Black Point basalt colunns; and Mandalay Beach.  Mandalay Beach contains the wreck of a Norwegian ship dating to 1911.  The Bibbulmun Track crosses the area. Sandy Island, three km off the southern coast of the park, is covered with tussock and grassland and is an IBA for the flesh-footed shearwater and fairy tern.

Eclipse Island Nature Reserve, Great Southern Region (16).  This island is an IBA for flesh-footed shearwater, great-winged petrel, and little penguin.

Mount Frankland NP, Great Southern and Southwest regions (17).  This 31,000-ha area of karri, jarrah, and tingle forest has walking trails that lead to the summit ofMountFrankland.

Gloucester NP, South West Region (13).  Located 3 km from Pemberton, a 60-m-high karri tree was used as a fire lookout tower.  At The Cascades, a stream flows over rocky shelves.  The park is on the Karri Forest Explorer Drive.

Gull Rock NP, Great Southern region (18).  This park includes the Mount Martin Botanical Reserve, the most significant remaining stand of scarlet banksias.

Leeuwin-Naturaliste NP, South West region (19).  The coastline between Cape Naturaliste in the north and Cape Leeuwinin the south is included in this park, which includes sea cliffs, granite headlands, waterfalls, and caves.  Canal Rocks are coastal granite rock formations separated by ‘canals.’  The westernmost karri forest is at Boranup.  Commercial cave tours are of Ngilgi, Mammoth, Lake, Moondyne, and Jewel caves, while self-guided tours are available at Calgardup and Giants caves. The 140-km Cape to Cape Walk Track is entirely within this park.  Inland is the Margaret River wine region.

Mount Manypeaks Nature Reserve (20).  See Waychinicup NP.

One Tree Bridge Conservation Park, South West region (21).  Located  on the Donnelly River south of Manjimup, this park contains four karri trees that are over 400 years old.

Owingup Nature Reserve, Great Southern Region (14).  Home of a rare orchid, Diiuris drummondii, the swamp and boat harbor wetlands are an IBA for the Australasian bittern and other waterbirds.

Scott NP, South West region (22).   This is an access area to the Blackwater River, which is popular for canoeing.

Shannon NP, South West region (23).  The entire watershed of the karri-forested Shannon River is included in this 53,500-ha park, which is adjacent to the east side of D’Encastreaux NP.  The Great Forest Trees Drive includes old growth forest.  The Bibbulmun Track crosses the southern parts of the park.

Torndirrup NP, Great Southern region (18).  This 4,000-ha coastal area just south of Albany features a natural bridge and blowholes along the coast, with coastal heaths and granite outcrops.  The coastal areas are known for freak waves.

Two Peoples Bay Nature Reserve (20).  This area between Gull Rock NP and Waychinicup NP provides habitat for 12 rare animals, including noisy scrub-bird, western bristlebird, and Australasian bittern, as well as the mammals Gilbert’s potoroo, western ringtail possum, and quokka.  The reserve is an IBA for noisy scrub-bird, western bristlebird, and western whipbird.

Walpole-Nornalup NP, Great Southern and South West regions (24).  Large karri and tingle trees are a highlight of the flora, which also includes coastal heath and 104 species of orchids.  The red tingle tree is endemic to the park.  The Bibbulmun Track traverses the park.  Notable visitor areas are Circular Pool on theFranklandRiver, the Knolls, Conspicuous Cliffs, Hilltop with a giant tingle tree, andMountClare.

Warren NP, South West region (25).  Downstream from Gloucester NP and upstream from D’Entrecasteaux NP on the Warren River, this park has virgin karri forest with 60-m tall trees along theWarrenRiver.  Fire lookouts are in trees that can be climbed.  A 10-km trail winds through the old growth.  TheWarren River is a canoe stream.  The park is on the Karri Forest Explorer Drive.

Waychinicup NP, Great Southern region (20).  Located on both sides of Mount Manypeaks Nature Reserve, this park has the granite-lined outlet of the Waychinicup Riverand rare mammals—quenda, western ringtail possums, and quokkas.  Rare birds include the noisy scrub-bird and western ground parrot.  The park is an IBA for noisy scrub-bird, western bristlebird, and western whipbird.

William Bay NP, Great Southern region (26).  Located south of Denmark along the coast, the park is composed of granite headlands vegetated with heath vegetation.  There are pockets of karri and extensive tracts of peppermint (Agonis).  Granite boulders and rocky shelves extend offshore.    Sheltered swimming areas are at Greens Pool and Elephant Rocks.

Yelverton NP, South West region (27).  Located at the junction of three ecoregions, this park contains native forests with a high concentration of rare flora.

 

D. Swan Coastal Plain (AA1205).  Found along the west coast from north of Perth to Cape Naturaliste, this area has diverse vegetation of Kwongan scrub, mallee, and heath.  Tuart forests (Eucalyptus gomphocephala) grow south of Perth.  Up to three fourths of the world’s carnivorous sundew species are found in this ecoregion.  Some wildflowers are pollinated by possums.  This ecoregion is found in the Mid West, Peel, South West, and Wheat Belt economic development regions and includes the local government areas around Perth.

World Heritage Site:

Australian Convict Sites, Freemantle local government area (28).  This area on the Swan River downstream from Perth memorializes the last of the original convict prisons to close.  About 166,000 people were sent to Australia from 1787 to 1868.  Of this, 10,000 were sent to the Swan River Colony in today’s Western Australia.  These convicts worked on public infrastructure, agriculture, and mining.  The prison consists of a complex of limestone buildings within a six-meter-high limestone perimeter wall.  On site are 17 intact convict-built structures.

Ramsar Sites (wetlands of international importance)

Becher Point Wetlands, Rockingham local government area (29).  This system of wetlands and dunes supports sedgelands separated by sand ridges.  Sedgelands are dominated by Baumea species.

Forestdale and Thomsons Lakes, Armandale and Kwinana Local Government Areas (28).  These lakes are the best remaining examples of brackish seasonal lakes with fringing sedges in the Swan Coastal Plain and support 20,000 ducks and the Australasian bittern. Thomsons Lake is one of 19 lakes in Beeliar Regional Park.

Peel-Yalgorup System, Peel and South West regions (30).  Shallow estuaries and lakes support 86 species of water birds, including thousands of shorebirds.  The area is known for samphire vegetation of sedges fringed by low trees of Melaleuca.  In the water are thrombolites, similar to stratomalites, formed by cyanobacteria and sediments. It includes Yalgorup NP, Peel Inlet, Harvey Estuary, Lake McLarty, Lake Mealup, and Erskine Conservation Park.  Yalgorup NP extends from the Peel-Harvey estuary south to Harvey and includes a chain of ten lakes. Lake Clifton within the park is known for thrombolites, microorganism-derived structures similar to stromatolites.  The NP is an IBA for the fairy tern, hooded plover, and Australian shelduck.  Mammals include the chuditch, southern brown bandicoot, and western ringtail possum.  The Peel-Harvey Estuary is an IBA for the fairy tern, blue-billed duck, and red-necked stint.  Lake McLarty Nature Reserve is an IBA for red-necked stint, sharp-tailed sandpiper, and black-winged stilt.

Vasse-Wonnerup System, South West region (31).  This is an extensive shallow wetland system supporting a breeding colony of black swan.  It includes Tuart Forest NP and Vasse-Wonnerup Conservation Park.

 

Other Sites in this ecoregion include:

Badgingarra NP, Mid West Region (32).  High breaks overlook sandplains in this park adjacent to the Brand Highway.  Flowers include yellow and black kangaroo paw, grass trees, banksias, and Badgingarra mallee.

Beeliar Regional Park, Melville, Cockburn, and Kwinana local government areas (28).  Two chains of wetlands and 19 lakes are in this park area from 10 to 33 km south of Perth;Thomsons Lake is a Ramsar site.

Benger Swamp, South West region (33).  This area is a seasonally inundated marsh which is an IBA for Australasian bittern and blue-billed duck.

Canning River Regional Park, Canning local government area (28).  This 6-km stretch of river in the City ofCanning is nine km southeast of Perth.  It is known for canoeing.

Carnac Island, between Garden and Rottnest Islands(34).  This small limestone island is an IBA for fairy tern.  It is covered with acacia woodland and contains sea cliffs and attracts sea lions.

Cataby, Wheatbelt region (32).  This area of eucalypt woodlands on theBrand Highway is an IBA for Carnaby’s black-cockatoo and western corella.

Drover’s Cave NP, Mid West Region (35).  Numerous caves are found underlying the Banksia-dominated flora east of Jurien Bay.  The park is part of the Kwongan sand plains area of outstanding floral diversity.

Gillingarra Nature Reserve, Wheat Belt region (36).  In the Victoria Plains, Carnaby’s black-cockatoo nest in marri trees.  This is an IBA for the Carnaby’s black cockatoo, western corella, and red-capped parrot.

Herdsman Lake Regional Park,Stirling local government area (37).  The largest wetland in the Perth area is 7 km northwest of the city and contains a wildlife education center.

Honey Myrtle Swamp, Wheat Belt region (35).  This large wetland near Jurien Bay is notable because it is dominated by honey myrtle, or Melaleuca huegelii.

Jandakot Regional Park, Armadale, Cockburn, and Kwinana local government areas (38).  Located on a dune system, this park protects a Banksia woodland 17 to 34 km southeast of Perth.

Leschenault Peninsula Conservation Park, South West region (33).  This beach area is north of Bunbury and is known for bird and dolphin watching.

LeSueur NP, Mid West Region (39).  This wildflower area inland from Green Head is known for acacias, hibbertias, melaleucas, orchids, and kangaroo paw.  Jarrah grows here but takes the form of a mallee shrub. Mount LeSueur is a mesa; much of the rest of the park is the northernmost area of the Swan Coastal Plain.  The park is part of the Kwongan sand plains area of outstanding floral diversity.

Moora area, Shire of Moora, Wheatbelt region (40).  The area around the town is an IBA for Carnaby’s black-cockatoo and western corella.

Moore River NP, Wheat Belt region (41).  This wildflower area north of Perth is known for Banksia heathlands.

Nambung NP, Wheat Belt Region (42).  This coastal park contains beaches, coastal dunes, tuart trees, and heathland that puts on wildflower displays.  The park is part of the Kwongan sand plains area of outstanding floral diversity.  The Pinnacles Desert is an area of limestone pillars three m high that rise above sand dunes.  Wildlife includes the western grey kangaroo.

Neerabup NP, Wannaroo local government area (43).  This undisturbed coastal plain area north of Perth is known for huge balga trees.  There are also patches of jarrah forest.  It is part of the Northern Swan Coastal Plain IBA for Carnaby’s black-cockatoo, western corella, and red-capped parrot.

Penguin Island Conservation Park, Rockingham local government area (44).  An island in the Shoalwater Islands Marine Park supports a colony of little penguins.  It is accessible by ferry and includes walking trails.

Rockingham Lakes Regional Park, Rockingham local government area (45).  Adjacent to Shoalwater Islands Marine Park, this area is known for thrombolites and includes Cape Peron.

Rottnest Island, Rottnest Island Authority, off ofPerth(46).  This 11-km-long island is most known for the globally threatened mammal, the quokka.  It also contains six permanent salt lakes and is an IBA for fairy tern, banded stilt, and wedge-tailed shearwater.  Offshore the island is a notable area for watching whales and dolphins and for snorkeling.

Tuart Forest NP, South West region (31).  Between Capel and Busselton is the 2,000-ha park with trees to 33 m in height.  The endangered western ringtail possum is protected in the park.  The park is part of the Busselton wetlands IBA for banded stilt, rednecked avocet and Australian shelduck.

Vasse-Wonnerup Conservation Park(31).  See Vasse-Wonnerup Ramsar site.

Woodman Point Regional Park, Cockburn local government area (28).  Located 20 km south of Perth on the coast, this area contains remnant tuart woodland and Rottnest cypress.

Yalgorup NP, Peel and South West regions (30).  See Peel-Yalgorup Ramsar site.

Yanchep NP, Wanneroo local government area (42).  This park north of Perth on the coast has tours of Crystal Cave.  There are 600 other known caves in the park.  The forest is tuart and banksias, which area accessible from an extensive system of walking trails.  The park is known for the western grey kangaroo and koalas, as well as Carnaby’s cockatoo.  It is part of the Northern Swan Coastal Plain IBA for Carnaby’s black-cockatoo, western corella, and red-capped parrot.

Yellagonga Regional Park, Joondalup and Wanneroo local government areas (43).  This inland area 20 km north of Perth contains wetlands and upland vegetation.  A walk trail links Joondalup and Yanchep NP.

Yelverton NP, South West region (27).  Located at the junction of three ecoregions, this park contains native forests with a high concentration of rare flora.

(Continued next month).

Sonoran Desert and Sky Islands, Part I

 

Locations of Sites Discussed in Text

Columnar cacti, renewable energy, and squirrels

I. Map boundaries: 30 to 35 degrees North; 110 to 117 degrees West
II. Country (State): Mexico (Baja California, Sonora), United States (Arizona, California).

III. Overview
This entry focuses on the Sonoran Desert north of 30 degrees latitude and the Chihuahuan Desert west of 110 degrees longitude. The sky islands of the Sierra Madre Occidental, which poke above the Chihuahuan Desert, are also discussed, as is the northernmost Baja California Desert as it grades into Mediterranean California. Because of the two U.S. States and three Mexican states (Baja California, Sonora, and Sinaloa) involved in the Sonoran Desert, the Sonoran Joint Venture has been established to coordinate and direct bird conservation funds toward the highest priority needs in the area. At the Yuma Crossing area where four of the states come together, the project seeks to recreate habitat for the southwestern willow flycatcher and the Yuma clapper rail by restoring marshes, removing tamarisk and other invasive plants, and revegetation of the area. These activities are taking place both north of the border and south in Santa Clara marsh in Sonora and Baja California (Cohn 2005).

The Sonoran Desert is usually noted as being unusually lush in vegetation for a desert. There are cacti and other succulent plants that focus on water storage. Those that do not store water complete their life cycle quickly after rains and before the next drought begins. The lush plant growth may be because the area has alternated among different states including a tropical dry forest, savanna, chaparral, and thorn forest before becoming the desert of today. The ancestors of the desert plants lived in cooler and moister climates, and their descendants adapted to increasingly drier conditions over an 80 million year period (Mohlenbrock 1986).

In addition to the saguaro, the Sonoran Desert hosts the unique elephant tree (Bursera microphylla), which has a population centered on the Barry M. Goldwater Air Force Range of southwestern Arizona. The tree provides food for the gray vireo in its wintering areas in the Sonoran Desert. The gray vireo is a rare bird of the southwestern arid lands. The beak of the vireo opens just wide enough to eat elephant tree fruits. In fact, it appears that the bird’s winter distribution matches the distribution of the elephant tree. Some of the important winter habitat for the vireo is located on the Goldwater Air Force Range property in southwestern Arizona (Arnett 2011).

By the 1890s, the new Euro-American settlements of southeastern Arizona were already overgrazed and a severe drought was in progress. As many as 50 to 75 percent of all cattle had died. This crisis led to scientific research on how many cattle the grasslands of the northwestern Chihuahuan Desert could sustain. As more and more is known, the carrying capacity has been reduced. The 50,000-acre site was originally believed suitable for up to 1,200 cattle, but today the number is 600 to 700. Sustainability is maintained by breaking the site into pastures, and cattle are rotated based on the health of the pasture. This research area, where cattle were fenced out and the carrying capacity of the desert range was established, is today the Santa Rita Experimental Range. Today, Santa Rita is part of the National Ecological Observatory Network which seeks to study the impacts of long-term climate change.

Nearby and to the east is another research site, the Walnut Gulch Experimental Watershed, which includes the town of Tombstone. The focus of research here is hydrology, including he effects of upland conservation efforts on downstream water supply. Also located in the grasslands of the Chihuahuan Desert, the research watershed is geared to determining the best ways to “stop the water where it falls.”

The Sonoran Desert is also a focus of renewable energy development. The EnergySource geothermal plant went on-line in 2012 adjacent to the Salton Sea. It obtains power from the Salton Sea geothermal resource area, which has a resource potential of up to 2,000 MW, of which 330 is developed. Geothermal development relies on deep wells to tap hot water; those at EnergySource extend 7,500 feet deep. The briny liquid extracted from the wells is returned via injection wells. The advantage of geothermal is that it can be run as baseload power while other renewables tend to be more intermittent (Trabish 2012).

To the west of Blythe along I-10 and adjacent to the Palen-McCoy Wilderness is the site for the Genesis Solar Power Project, a 250-MW development using parabolic trough technology to concentrate sunlight and generate electricity. In 2010, the project received BLM approvals for construction and a Department of Energy loan guarantee. During the review, the project was found to include several archaeologically important cultural landscapes. The approval required that Genesis document three cultural landscapes prior to construction. One was a Prehistoric Quarries Archaeological District and another was a Prehistoric Trails Network archaeological landscape. A third landscape was historic-period archaeological sites that contribute to a World War II Desert-Training Center California-Arizona Maneuver Area Historic Landscape. However, human remains have also been found along a transmission line connection to the site. Although the Programmatic Agreement for the project contained measures for the handling of human remains, these and two other human finds have prompted concerns from the Colorado River Indian Tribes that the previous archaeological surveys of the area were not comprehensive (BLM 2010; Sahagun 2012). As if to reinforce the cultural resource criticisms of the project, a rare flood in the summer of 2012 caused some roads to be washed out and some equipment to be damaged.

One of the most famous and long-running battles in environmental history, alongside the snail darter and spotted owl, is the battle over a mountain and the siting of an astronomical observatory in the middle of a mountaintop forest which is the sole habitat for the Mount Graham red squirrel. The Pinaleno Mountain range already had a road to the top and some development of vacation cabins. Therefore, it was initially not viewed as pristine when it was proposed for an astronomical observatory. However, biological studies indicated the mountain had been an isolated sky island for some 11,000 years, and new species of insects were found. The most critical species was the Mount Graham red squirrel, whose numbers were estimated as only 300 (Waldrop 1990). The observatory was eventually built and today houses three telescopes. However, the controversy is not over, and suits seeking to protect the squirrels under the Endangered Species Act continue.

IV. Terrestrial Ecoregions
Ecoregions of the Neararctic Biome
Tropical & Subtropical Coniferous Forests
Nearactic (NA) 302, Sierra Madre Occidental pine-oak forests. These forests occur as isolated sky islands on mountain peaks between 1,500 and 3,300 m in elevation. Drier areas have chaparral and oak-grassland vegetation. The region is known for endemic birds such as the thick-billed parrot, tufted jay, eared quetzal, and green-striped brush finch; 22 endemic reptiles; and 12 endemic amphibians. The mountain air currents are a major migratory pathway for the monarch butterfly. Found in Arizona and Sonora.

Deserts & Xeric Shrublands
NA 1301, Baja California desert. The mountains, plains, and dunes host xeric scrub of cacti, Ambrosia, and Erodium. In low humid areas epiphytes are present. Endemic mammals include the San Quintin kangaroo rat and Baja California rock squirrel. Found on the western side of the Baja California peninsula in Baja California.
NA 1303, Chihuahuan desert. This isolated desert and grassland is known for prairie dog, bison, and antelope. The dominant plant is creosote bush, along with tarbush and acacia. There are up to 1,000 endemic plant species, including one-fifth of the world’s cacti. Found in deep valleys reaching into the mountains of eastern Sonora and southeastern Arizona.
NA 1310, Sonoran Desert. The desert most famous for the saguaro cactus and other columnar cacti also contains creosote bush, ironwood, palo verde and other cacti in drier areas. Found in Arizona, Baja California, California, and Sonora.

V. Freshwater Ecoregions
Xeric Freshwaters and Closed Basins
130, Colorado, includes the lower Colorado River and the Bill Williams River in the Sonoran Desert of Baja California, California, and Arizona. There are distinctive fishes adapted to turbid, fast-flowing waters and a high level of endemism in the fish fauna.
131, Gila, is a Colorado River tributary in Arizona and is separately delineated from the Colorado ecoregion because 20 percent of the aquatic species are endemic. The river is noted for speciation in chubs.
159, Southern California Coastal-Baja California, contains few permanent watercourses. Streams contain a marine-derived fish fauna including killifish, lamprey, and sculpin.
160, Sonora, includes rivers in Sonora including the Rio Sonoyta and Concepcion in the map area. The ecoregion has endemic Opata sucker and desert chub.

VI. Marine Ecoregions
Temperate Northern Pacific Realm, Warm Temperate Northeast Pacific Province
59, Southern California Bight, is found along the Pacific Coast of terrestrial ecoregion NA1301.
60, Cortezian, is found in the Sea of Cortez adjoining Baja California and Sonora.

VII. World Heritage Sites
Islands and Protected Areas of the Gulf of California (IPAGC). This world heritage designation includes nine protected area units, two of which are within the map area. The two units shown on the map are:
Islands of the Gulf of California Flora and Fauna Reserve (IGCFFR), Baja California and Sonora (site 1 on map). This includes 232 islands, nine of which fall within the map area. These are Cholludo, Gore, El Huerfanito, Lobos, Montague, El Muerto, El Pelicano, San Jorge, and San Luis. Gore, Montague, and Pelicano are also in the Upper Gulf of California Biosphere Reserve. The Gulf of California is a high salinity, shallow gulf. The islands are listed because of striking natural beauty, 90 endemic fish species, 39 percent of the world’s marine mammal species, and one third of the world’s cetacean species. An endemic fish, totoaba, and an dolphin, cochito, are found in the shallow Upper Gulf of California. Terrestrial ecoregion NA 1310; marine ecoregion 60.
Upper Gulf of California and Colorado Delta Biosphere Reserve, Baja California and Sonora (2). The three mouths of the Colorado River and the swamp of La Ramada support 100,000 shorebirds annually. In the Colorado delta, the Santa Clara Marshland offers guided tours from Ejido Luis E. Johnson. The reserve includes the former outlet of the Colorado River and is also a Ramsar Site, biosphere reserve, WHSRN site, and an Important Bird Area (IBA) of BirdLife International. Terrestrial ecoregion NA1310; marine ecoregion 60.

VIII. Man and the Biosphere Reserves
Gulf of California Islands (1), Sonora. See World Heritage list above.
Mojave and Colorado Desert, California. A multi-unit biosphere reserve including Death Valley National Park, Joshua Tree National Park, Santa Rosa and San Jacinto Mountains National Monument, Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, and Philip L. Boyd Deep Canyon Desert Research Center in Palm Desert, California. Each of these sites is described in a separate entry below except for Death Valley, which is described in the Mojave Desert ecosystem post. Ecoregion NA1308 and NA1310.
Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, Arizona (3). The monument preserves the range of organ pipe cactus in the U.S., along with 550 other species of plants, including a diversity of other cacti and Sonoran desert plants and animals. The pollinator of organ pipe cactus, the lesser long-nosed bat, is an endangered species. The Senita Basin has a diversity of cactus and elephant trees. The Ajo Mountain and Puerto Blanco roads provide access to a range of desert topography and vegetation. Organ Pipe Cactus is a unit of the Sonoran Desert Borderlands IBA and is noted for pygmy owl. Ecoregion NA1310.
El Pinacate and Altar Desert Biosphere Reserve, Sonora (4). The biosphere reserve designation for the Upper Gulf of California and Colorado Delta Biosphere Reserve (see description under World Heritage Sites in Section VII) includes El Pinacate and Altar Desert Biosphere Reserve in Sonora. The Pinacate is a 600-square-mile volcanic area on the east side of the Altar Desert. The area of cones, craters, and lava flows was formed about 50,000 years ago. The highest peak is 3,960 feet. There are over 400 volcanic cinder cones, some of which were formed by steam explosion when lava contacted ground water. The largest crater is El Elegante, 700 feet deep and 1,500 feet across. Molina Crater looks like a clover leaf on the map and is the intersection of three circular craters. Saguaro and ocotillo grow in some of the crater floors. The Altar Desert contains the largest active dune field in North America. It is noted for unusual star dunes but also has crescent dunes. Vegetation of the reserve is predominantly cholla and mesquite. Ecoregion NA1310.

IX. Ramsar Sites (wetlands of international importance)
Colorado Delta Wetlands, Baja California and Sonora (2). See Upper Gulf of California World Heritage Site.
San Quintin Lagoon Complex, Baja California (5). The site supports 35,000 shorebirds, including plovers, willet, curlew, and godwit, along with endemic plants in the genera Astragalus and Chorizanthe. A collapsed cave along the southern portion of the bay is La Lobera, which is a sea lion viewing area. San Quintin is also an IBA and a unit in the Western Hemisphere Shorebird Reserve Network. Ecoregion NA1301.

X. Western Hemisphere Shorebird Reserve Network (WHSRN)
Colorado River Estuary, Baja California and Sonora, Mexico (6). See description under Upper Gulf of California and Colorado Delta world heritage site. Montague and Pelicano Islands are also part of the WHSRN site.
San Quintin Lagoon, Baja California (5). See description under Ramsar sites.
Sonny Bono Salton Sea National Wildlife Refuge (NWR), California (7). In addition to providing habitat for 100,000 ducks and geese, the refuge supports more than 20,000 shorebirds, including the Yuma clapper rail, laughing gull, wood stork, black tern. The largest breeding colony of double-crested cormorants is also in the area. The Salton Sea was formed in 1905 when a dike burst along the Colorado River. There is no outlet. The water level is rising from irrigation inflows, and is also getting saltier with time. The area is included in the Salton Sea and Imperial Valley IBAs. Ecoregion NA1310.

XI. National Ecological Observatory Network (NEON)
Santa Rita Experimental Range, Arizona (8). Established by the Forest Service in 1903 and now managed by the University of Arizona, the research site measured what would today be called the carrying capacity of rangeland. Researchers fenced out cattle and measured the regeneration of grassland. Now the 50,000-acre research site near Green Valley is part of the NEON network that will study long-term climate change over a 30-year period. Ecoregion NA1303.

XII. National Forest (NF) System
Coronado NF, Arizona. There are ten non-contiguous units shown on the map and listed below; two additional units (not described) are found in southeastern Arizona and New Mexico:
Dragoon Mountains (9) are notable for huge granite domes and canyons. The area is rich grasslands and grass-dominated woodlands. There are three rare mollusk species. Ecoregions NA302 and NA1303.
Galiuro Mountains (10) are an isolated range northeast of Tucson and northwest of Willcox. The mountains are known for precipitous topography and are included in the Galiuro Wilderness (see). Ecoregions NA302 and NA1303.
Huachuca Canelo, and Patagonia Mountains (11). This unit contains Ramsey Canyon, a National Natural Landmark, and six perennial streams. The Huachuca Mountains are an IBA for rare neotropical birds. Scotia Canyon, northwest of Miller Peak wilderness, is rich in sensitive species, especially reptiles, amphibians, and mollusks. Ecoregions NA302 and NA1303.
Pinaleno Mountains (12) are the tallest sky island in the US, rising to 10,720 feet at Mount Graham (just east of the map area). See discussion in part III on the squirrels of Mount Graham.  Ecoregion NA302 and NA1303.
Santa Catalina Mountains (13), located east of Tucson, contains the Sky Island Scenic Byway, which climbs from Sabino Canyon to Mount Lemmon through five life zones, the desert, grassland, pinyon-juniper, ponderosa pine, and alpine. Finger Rock Canyon is known for seven sensitive plants, and Agua Caliente Zoological Area is rich in reptiles and amphibians. Pusch Ridge and Rincon Mountain Wilderness areas (see) are located here. Ecoregions NA 302, NA1303, and NA1310.
Santa Rita Mountains (14) are located between Nogales and Tucson. Madera Canyon, east of I-19, is a birder’s paradise and the hummingbird capital of the U.S. The Santa Rita Mountains are also an IBA. Adjoining the Santa Ritas is another IBA, Tanque Verde Wash/Sabino Canyon. This area in the southern edge of the Santa Catalina Mountains is an IBA for Abert’s towhee. Onyx Cave National Natural Landmark (see) and Mount Wrightson Wilderness (see) are located here. The Santa Rita Experimental Range, located in the northwestern portion, was the first experimental range, established in 1903, and is currently managed by the University of Arizona (see NEON entry). Ecoregions NA302 and NA1303.
Santa Teresa Mountains (15) are the northernmost unit of the sky islands, located adjacent to the San Carlos Apache Reservation. Rock formations, deep canyons, and steep terrain are characteristic. Chaparral dominates the Santa Teresa Wilderness (see). Ecoregions NA302 and NA1303.
Tumacacori, Atacosa, and Pajarita Mountains (16) are west of Nogales. The unit borders Buenos Aires NWR (see) and the mountain ranges extend south into Mexico, forming a continuous Madrean oak woodland. Sycamore Canyon, west of Nogales on the Mexican border, contains rare plants and animals for the U.S. including the jaguarondi. It is an IBA for high bird diversity and rare Mexican species. California Gulch, also west of Nogales, is an IBA for five-striped sparrow. Pajarita Wilderness (see) is located here. Ecoregions NA302 and NA1303.
Whetstone Mountain (17) is an isolated mountain which contains limestone and is known for caves on the east side of the range. Kartchner Caverns State Park (see) is located just east of the forest property. French Joe Canyon provides riparian habitat for rufous-capped warbler. Ecoregions NA 302 and NA1303.
Winchester Mountains (18) are north of I-10 and west of Willcox, and are an isolated range of oak-pine woodlands. Ecoregion NA1303.
Prescott NF, Arizona (19). In the high desert are flowering yuccas, agaves, and cacti, whereas at higher elevations pinyon-juniper and oak grow. Included in the forest are Apache Creek, Castle Creek, Cedar Bench, Granite Mountain, Juniper Mesa, Pine Mountain, Sycamore Canyon, and Woodchute Wildernesses. Ecoregions NA503 and NA1310.
San Bernardino NF, California (20). The Rim of the World and Palms to Pines scenic byways provide access to the San Bernardino and San Jacinto Mountain ranges. The Santa Rosa and San Jacinto wildernesses are shared with the Santa Rosa and San Jacinto National Monument. Ecoregions NA 1201, 1203, 1308, and 1310.
Tonto NF, Arizona (21). The southern parts, such as the Superstitition Wilderness, are in the Sonoran Desert, with saguaros, cholla, and cacti, while in the north this grades to a ponderosa pine forest. The Mazatzal, Sierra Ancha, and Superstition wilderness areas are in the forest. Cave Creek downstream from Seven Springs north of Carefree is an IBA. The Verde River in the Mazatzal Wilderness downstream to the confluence with the Salt River, and the Salt River downstream from Saguaro Lake in this NF are an IBA for bald eagle, yellow-billed cuckoo, and southwestern willow flycatcher. Ecoregions NA503 and NA1310.

XIII. National Landscape Conservation System (wilderness areas are in a separate list below)
Agua Fria National Monument, Arizona (22). A high mesa area of desert grassland is located 40 miles north of Phoenix adjacent to I-17. The plateau is associated with a dormant volcano. The riparian areas along the Agua Fria River are an IBA. Ecoregion NA1310.
Las Cienegas National Conservation Area, Tucson BLM District, Arizona (23). Marshlands, cottonwood forests, oak woodlands, and grasslands are found on a working ranch. The historic ranch house dates to 1870 and is operated by the Empire Ranch Foundation. The southern edge is part of the Appleton-Whittell Research Ranch of the National Audubon Society (see). Ecoregions NA302 and NA1303.
Ironwood Forest National Monument, Arizona (24). The site contains vegetation typical of the Sonoran Desert. Dominant species are the saguaro cactus and trees of the legume family, including palo verde, acacia, ironwood, and mesquite (Mohlenbrock 2011). The monument includes parts of the Pan Quemado, Roskruge, Silver Bell, Ragged Top, Sawtooth, and Waterman Mountain ranges. Vegetation is about one half scattered saguaro and ironwood and one half creosotebush and bursage. There are small areas of jojoba chaparral on Silver Bell Peak and a cholla forest in the Pan Quemado Mountains. The Los Robles and Cocoraque Butte archaeological districts are included in the monument. Ecoregion NA1310.
Santa Rosa and San Jacinto National Monument, California (25). With elevations ranging from sea level to 10,000 feet, a diversity of natural landscapes are present, ranging from the desert to pinyon-juniper to limber and lodgepole pine. The San Jacinto Mountains rise almost 10,000 feet in seven horizontal miles. The mountains overlook the rapidly urbanizing Coachella Valley. Streams and seeps support palm oases. The San Jacinto Mountains are the northern end of the Peninsular Range, which extends south the length of Baja California. The monument includes the Agua Caliente Indian Reservation, Hidden Palms Ecological Reserve, Boyd, Phillip J., Deep Canyon Research Center (UC Riverside), Carrizo Canyon Ecological Reserve, the Living Desert (zoo and botanical garden), Magnesia Spring Ecological Reserve, Mount San Jacinto State Park and Wilderness, Palm Canyon Creek National Wild and Scenic River, Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, Peninsular Ranges Ecological Reserve, Santa Rosa Wilderness, and part of San Jacinto Wilderness. Ecoregions NA1310 and NA1201.
San Pedro Riparian National Conservation Area, Tucson BLM District, Arizona (26). One of the most important natural areas in the Southwest, the San Pedro River is lined with riparian vegetation within the Chihuahuan Desert. The NCA protects 40 miles of the river. It is one of the most important migratory bird corridors in the Southwest, along with the Rio Grande, Santa Cruz, and Colorado Rivers. It is an IBA because of this. It contains the Spanish Presidio Santa Cruz de Terrenante historic site and Murray Springs Clovis archaeological site. Ecoregion NA1303.
Sonoran Desert National Monument, BLM Lower Sonoran Field Office, Arizona (27). Mountain ranges (Javelina, Maricopa, Sand Tank, Table Top, and White Hills) punctuate an extensive saguaro cactus forest. The monument Includes the North and South Maricopa Mountain Wilderness Areas and Table Top Wilderness, which are all described in separate entries. Ecoregion NA1310.

XIV. National Natural Landmarks (NNL)
Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, California (28). The best examples of the biotic and geologic phenomena of the Colorado Desert (the California portion of the Sonoran Desert) are here. In wetter years, the spring wildflower display in February and March is notable, and composed of plants such as the desert sand verbena, dune evening primrose, desert chicory, and desert lily (Gibbons 2011). The Elephant Tree Forest, made of Bursera trees, is an IBA for gray vireo. Springs are found on the eastern side of the mountains, watering palm oases. The riparian areas of the park support groves of fan palm and are an IBA for least Bell’s vireo, long-eared owl, and Swainson’s hawk. Desert bighorn sheep are in the high areas. Major attractions are Borrego Palm Canyon, Tamarisk Grove and Yaqui Well, Mountain Palm Springs, and Blair Valley pictographs. Ecoregion NA1310.
Canelo Hills Cienega Reserve, The Nature Conservancy, Arizona (29). This wet desert grassland along O’Donnell Creek at 5,000 feet elevation is located at the town of Canelo on Route 83. The preserve protects one of four populations of the Canelo lady’s tresses orchid. It was designated because it is the least disturbed southwestern desert wet grassland habitat. Ecoregion 1303.
Imperial Sand Hills, BLM California Desert District, California (30). Dune heights reach 300 feet in one of the largest natural dune areas in the U.S., extending 40 miles in length by five miles in width between the Mexican border and the Chocolate Mountains. It is the most popular off-highway vehicle area in the U.S., also. Basins between the dunes contain some desert vegetation. This NNL includes the North Algodones Dunes Wilderness and is part of the Colorado Desert Microphyll woodlands IBA for long-eared owl, elf owl, and Gila woodpecker. Sensitive species include the Peirson’s milk vetch and desert tortoise. Ecoregion NA1310.
Onyx Cave, Coronado NF, Arizona (14). Considered the finest cave in Arizona, the one-half-mile-long cave is located in the Santa Rita Mountains to the east of Mount Wrightson in Gardner Canyon. 31-43, 110-47. Ecoregion NA302.
Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Sanctuary, The Nature Conservancy, Arizona (31). Sonoita Creek, lined with 100-year old Fremont cottonwoods and a riparian woodland, is among the top birding spots in the country, counting a diversity of flycatchers among its inhabitants. It is the only known US nesting spot of the rose-throated becard. The preserve is located one mile outside of Patagonia and is an IBA. Nearby to the south of Patagonia is the most famous (to birders) rest area in America, on Route 82, a birding hotspot for the rose-throated becard. Ecoregion NA1303.
Ramsey Canyon Preserve, The Nature Conservancy, Arizona (11). America’s first NNL, located in the Huachuca Mountains, has exceptional biological diversity, with 14 species of hummingbirds alone. This is the most species of hummingbirds to be found at one place in the U.S. It is adjacent to the Miller Peak Wilderness in the Coronado NF. Ecoregion NA302.
San Felipe Creek, BLM El Centro District, California (32). This is the last remaining natural desert stream in the Colorado Desert, also called the San Sebastian Marsh. Rare and endangered species include desert pupfish, Peninsular bighorn sheep, least Bell’s vireo, yellowbilled cuckoo, Southwestern willow flycatcher, unarmored three-spined stickleback, black rail, and arroyo toad. Additionally, there are many species of special concern, including yellow-breasted chat, yellow warbler, loggerhead shrike, Vaux’s swift, summer tanager, lowland leopard frog, California red-legged frog, and Orcutt’s aster. Ecoregion NA1310.

XV. National Park (NP) System of US and Mexico
Coronado National Memorial, Arizona (33). Located in the Huachuca Mountains, one of the sky islands, this park consists of canyons draining south into Montezuma Canyon, which is a tributary of the San Pedro River. A limestone cave is also found within the park. Hiking trails lead to the cave and through Montezuma Canyon. The Arizona National Scenic Trail (NST) (see) begins at the Mexican border in the park. The memorial is part of the Huachuca Mountains IBA for rare neotropical species. Ecoregion NA302.
Joshua Tree National Park, California (site 34). Although known for the iconic yucca trees, this is also a rock climbing area. Rocks rise from the desert floor in squared columns and pillars. Major points of interest are Park Boulevard, with its rock formations, Ryan Mountain, Hidden Valley, the Wonderland of Rocks, Desert Queen Ranch, Cholla Cactus Garden, and Lost Palms Oasis. The southern parts of the park have cholla cactus and creosote bush as the area grades into the Sonoran Desert. The NP is part of the Mojave and Colorado Deserts biosphere reserve. Ecoregions NA1308 and NA1310.
Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, Arizona (3). See description under Biosphere reserves. Ecoregion NA1310.
Saguaro National Park, Arizona (35). The western Tucson Mountain unit and eastern Rincon Mountain units are on each side of Tucson. The Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum is an outdoor education center adjacent to the park. The western unit is viewed from the nine-mile Bajada Loop Drive, providing access to the finest saguaro stands. The eastern unit rises from the Sonoran desert to desert grassland and peaks of ponderosa pine. Cactus Forest Drive provides access to the trail system. Ecoregion NA1310 and NA302.
Sierra de San Pedro Martir National Park, Baja California (36). This boulder-studded park contains conifer forest at higher elevations, grading into the Sonoran and Baja California deserts at lower elevations. It is an IBA. Ecoregions NA526, NA1201, NA1301, and NA1310.
Tumacacori National Historical Park, Arizona (37). This historical area is part of the Upper Santa Cruz River IBA for riparian birds, known for gray hawks and yellow-billed cuckoo. Ecoregion NA1303.

XVI. Federal Recreation Lakes
Alamo Lake, US Army Corps of Engineers (USACE), Arizona (38). Located on the Bill Williams River, this flood control lake is managed as an Arizona state park. Eagles and waterfowl may be seen. Ecoregion NA1310.
Camp Dyer Diversion Dam and Hank Raymond Lake, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona (39). Located 35 miles northwest of Phoenix on the Agua Fria River, this facility provides water to the Maricopa Water District. Ecoregion NA1310.
Granite Reef Diversion Dam, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona (40). Located four miles downstream of the confluence of the Salt and Verde Rivers and 22 miles east of Phoenix, this facility diverts water to irrigation canals. Ecoregion NA1310.
Imperial Dam and Desilting Works, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona-California (41). Located 18 miles northeast of Yuma, this dam lifts water into the All-American and Coachella Canals of California and Gila canal of Arizona. Located on the reservoir are Imperial NWR, Mittry State Wildlife Area (AZ), and Picacho State Recreation Area (CA). The area is an IBA for Yuma clapper rail and California black rail. Ecoregion NA1310.
Laguna Diversion Dam and Mittry Lake Wildlife Area, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona-California (41). The area located 13 miles northeast of Yuma between Laguna and Imperial Dams is managed for waterfowl. Ecoregion NA1310.
Mormon Flat Dam and Canyon Lake, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona (42). Located 51 miles northeast of Phoenix, Canyon Lake is in the Tonto NF. Ecoregion NA1310.
New Waddell Dam and Lake Pleasant, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona (43). This reservoir on the Agua Fria River stores Central Arizona Project water and river runoff. Ecoregion NA1310.
Parker Dam and Lake Havasu, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona-California (44). Located below the mouth of the Bill Williams River, Parker Dam impounds Lake Havasu, the beginning point for the Colorado River Aqueduct to California and the Central Arizona Project Aqueduct to Phoenix and Tucson. Marshes at the upper end of Lake Havasu are managed as part of the Havasu NWR (see). Ecoregions NA1308 and NA1310.
Palo Verde Diversion Dam, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona-California (45). This dam, located nine miles northeast of Blythe, provides water to the Palo Verde Mesa in California for irrigation. Ecoregion NA1310.
Stewart Mountain Dam and Saguaro Lake, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona (46). Located 41 miles northeast of Phoenix, this dam stores Salt River water for irrigation. Reservoir recreation facilities are operated by the Tonto NF. Ecoregion NA1310.

XVII. National Trails System
Arizona National Scenic Trail (NST), Arizona. Extending 800 miles from Mexico to Utah, the trail crosses the Vermillion Cliffs NM, Kaibab NF, Grand Canyon NP, Coconino NF, Tonto NF, Four Peaks Wilderness, Superstition Wilderness, Coronado NF, Oracle State Park, Saguaro NP, and Coronado National Memorial. Ecoregions NA302, 503, 1303, 1304, and 1310.
Black Canyon National Recreation Trail (NRT), BLM Phoenix District, Arizona (22). This 80-mile trail from State Route 74 west of New River to the Prescott NF east of Mayer follows a route historically used for sheep herding. Ecoregions NA503 and NA1310.
Pacific Crest NST, California. Extending 2,600 miles from Canada to Mexico, the trail passes through some of the most scenic areas in California. Coastal sage and chaparral lands that the trail passes through, from south to north, are Cleveland NF, Hauser Wilderness, San Bernardino NF, San Jacinto Wilderness, San Gorgonio Wilderness, Angeles NF, Sheep Mountain Wilderness, San Gabriel Wilderness, Kiavah Wilderness, Domeland Wilderness, and Sequoia NF. Ecoregions NA527, 1201, 1203, 1308, 1310.
Sixshooter Canyon NRT, Tonto NF, Arizona (47). From the Icehouse CCC Campsite south of Globe, this trail ascends six miles to Pinal Peak in a ponderosa pine forest. Ecoregion NA503 and NA1303.

XVIII. National Wild and Scenic River (WSR) System
Palm Canyon Creek, San Bernardino National Forest and Santa Rosa and San Jacinto National Monument, California (48). The nation’s largest fan palm oasis, bighorn sheep, and willow flycatcher are protected in the eight-mile WSR stretch. Ecoregion NA1310.

(to be continued with wilderness areas, national wildlife refuges, state parks, and private sites of the Sonoran and Chihuhuan Deserts)

Mojave Desert, Part II

Many of the 77 designated wilderness areas of the Mojave Desert provide desert tortoise habitat and contain large stands of Joshua trees.  Other drier sites are mostly creosote bush and cholla cactus.  A few, such as Golden Valley and Newberry Mountains, are known for spring wildflower displays.  Those that reach above 7,000 feet, such as Kingston Range and Mount Tipton, support pinyon-juniper at the higher elevations.

XIV.  National Wilderness Areas

Argus Range Wilderness,BLM Ridgecrest District,California (site 29).  Dry desert mountains, springs, and creosote bush dominate this area just to the west of Death Valley NP.  This area is an IBA for the California towhee.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Arrow Canyon Wilderness, BLM Las Vegas Field Office,Nevada (site 30). Arrow Canyon is 18 feet across and 300 feet deep.  Miocene-age bird tracks and fossils of coral and mollusks are here.  Also in the wilderness is a 3,000-foot west-facing cliff face, all in a creosote-bush dominated landscape.  Ecoregions NA1305 and 1308.

Beaver Dam Mountains Wilderness,BLM Arizona Strip District, Arizona and Utah (site 31).  The wilderness includes theVirgin River and a Joshua tree forest to the north of it, all north of I-15 in northwestern Arizonaand southwestern Utah.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Bigelow Cholla Garden Wilderness, BLM Needles Field Office, California (site 32).  The concentration of bigelow cholla cactus is the notable feature at the northern end of the Sacramento Mountains adjacent to I-40 in far eastern California.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Bighorn Mountain Wilderness, BLM California Desert District and San Bernardino NF,California (site 33).  This area makes the transition from Joshua trees and yuccas to Jeffrey pine.  Ecoregion NA1203 and NA1308.

Black Canyon Wilderness, Lake Mead National Recreation Area, Nevada (site 34).  This area is across from Willow Beach on Lake Mohave and downstream from Hoover Dam in the Black Canyon.  It contains vertical cliffs dropping to the Colorado River.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Black Mountain Wilderness, BLM Barstow Field Office, California (site 35).  This is a mesa rising above flat lava flows.  Ecoregion NA 1308.

Bridge Canyon Wilderness, Lake Mead National Recreation Area, Nevada (site 36).  This area of the Newberry Mountains is noted for rock formations, springs, seeps, caves, and petroglyphs.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Bristol Mountains Wilderness, BLM Needles Field Office,California (site 37).  This is an area of creosote bush scrub to the southwest of Mojave National Preserve and to the north of I-40.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Cadiz Dunes Wilderness, BLM Needles Field Office,California (site 38). Between the Sheephole Valley and Old Woman Mountains and adjacent toCadiz Dry Lake is this lowland area which contains rare dune plants including the Borrego milkvetch.  Ecoregion NA1308

Chemehuevi Mountains Wilderness, BLM Needles and Lake Havasu Field Offices, California (site 39).  Rugged, granitic mountains are found along theColorado River to the south of I-40, east of US 95 and adjoining the Havasu NWR and Wilderness Area.  A large central valley is at the boundary between the Mojave Desert and Sonoran Desert.  A dense stand of cholla and other cacti cover the area.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Chimney Peak Wilderness, BLM Bakersfield Field Office,California (site 40).  This pinyon pine and sagebrush area adjacent to the Domeland and Owens Peak Wildernesses is on the boundary between theSierra Nevada and Mojave Desert.  Ecoregions NA527 and NA1308.

Cleghorn Lakes Wilderness, BLM Barstow Field Office,California (site 41).  This area between Joshua Tree and Amboy Crater includes the 4,000-foot Bullion Mountains as well as a large alluvial area and dry lakes.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Clipper Mountain Wilderness, BLM Needles Field Office, California (site 42).  A range of 4,600-foot volcanic mountains to the west of Essex overlooks the former Route 66 to the south and I-40 to the north.  The area is critical habitat for the desert tortoise.  Ecoregion NA1308

Coso Range Wilderness, BLM Ridgecrest Field Office, California (site 43).  The area is noted for Vermillion Canyon and large stands of Joshua trees.  It is located east of Olancha, south of State Route 190 and east of US 395.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Cottonwood Canyon Wilderness, Red Cliffs National Conservation Area, BLM St. George Field Office, Utah (site 7).  An extension of the Zion NP topography of sheer cliffs and seeps, this area contains species from both the Mojave Desert and Colorado Plateau.  Ecoregions NA1304 and NA1308.

Darwin Falls Wilderness, BLM, California (site 44).  This area is adjacent to State Route 190 and Death Valley NP.  The wilderness contains the north side of Darwin Canyon downstream of Darwin Falls, which is in the national park.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Dead Mountains Wilderness, BLM, California (site 45).  North of I-40, east of US 95, and west of the Colorado River lie the Dead Mountains, jagged mountains with creosote bush scrub, smoketrees, and critical habitat for the desert tortoise.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Death Valley Wilderness,California and Nevada (site 19).   See Death Valley NP.

Domeland Wilderness, BLM Bakersfield Field Office, California (site 46).  This wilderness preserves the transition between the southern end of the Sierra Nevada and the Mojave Desert.  Ecoregions NA527 and NA1308.

El Paso Mountains Wilderness, BLM Ridgecrest Field Office, California (site 47). Badlands topography and the Last Chance Archaeological District are included, as are fossil sites from the age of mammals.  Vegetation is creosote bush and Joshua tree.  The Black Hills and Indian Wells Valley on the northwest side of the El Paso Mountains east of State Route 14 are included.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Eldorado Wilderness, Lake Mead National Recreation Area and BLM Las Vegas Field Office, Nevada (site 48).  This area includes part of the Eldorado Mountains and the Black Canyon Area of Lake Mohave; it is prime bighorn sheep habitat.  The BLM portion includes Lonesome Wash and Oak CreekCanyon.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Funeral Mountains Wilderness, BLM Barstow Field Office, California (site 49).  This area in the eastern Funeral Mountains is on the north side of State Route 190 and adjoins the east side of Death Valley NP near Death Valley Junction.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Golden Valley Wilderness, BLM Ridgecrest Field Office, California (site 50).  This area includes the Almond Mountains and the Lava Mountains, both of which are covered with Joshua trees, and a wide valley known for spring wildflower displays in between.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Grand Wash Cliffs Wilderness,Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument, Arizona (site 51).  Twelve miles of towering cliffs in two giant 1,000-foot steps mark the boundary between the Mojave Desertand Colorado Plateau.  The first step is the Grand Wash Cliffs and the upper step is the Hidden Rim.  Ecoregion NA1304 and 1308.

Grass Valley Wilderness, BLM Ridgecrest Field Office, California (site 52).  Adjacent to the China Lake Naval Weapons Center, this creosote-bush-dominated area consists of low hills.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Havasu Wilderness, Havasu NWR, Arizona and California (site 39).  Adjacent to the Chemeheuvi Wilderness, the Havasu Wilderness includes Mojave Canyon south of I-40, Tumarion Peak, and Powell Peak.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Hollow Hills Wilderness, BLM Barstow Field Office, California (site 53).  This area contains creosote bush communities and desert tortoise habitat; the topography rises from Silver Dry Lake adjacent to State Route 127 to a range of low hills just north of I-15 and the Mojave National Preserve. Ecoregion NA 1308.

Ibex Wilderness, BLM Barstow Field Office, California (site 28).  The Ibex Hills, Greenwater Valley, and McLain Park are included, along with old talc mines.  The area adjoins Death Valley NP and is west of Tecopa and the Amargosa Wild and ScenicRiver.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Inyo Mountains Wilderness, Inyo NF and BLM, California (site 54).  There are 11,000-foot mountains topped with bristlecone pines and eight canyons with year-round streams.  Eocregions NA1305 and NA1308.  

Ireteba Peaks Wilderness, Lake Mead National Recreation Area and BLM Southern Nevada District, Nevada (site 55).  This area on Lake Mohave includes the Eldorado Mountains and is vegetated with teddy bear cholla.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Jimbilnan Wilderness, Lake Mead National Recreation Area, Nevada (site 56).  This area south of Echo Bay on the Overton Arm of Lake Mead contains the Black Mountains, Cathedral Peaks, and a sand dune area.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Joshua Tree Wilderness, Joshua Tree NP, California (site 20).  See Joshua Tree NP.

Jumbo Springs Wilderness, BLM Las Vegas Field Office, Nevada (site 57).  In the South Virgin Mountains, creosote bush and pinyon-juniper grow in Burro Spring and Cottonwood canyons which drain east to Lake Mead near the Arizona state line.  The area adjoins Lake Mead National Recreation Area, which is to the south.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Kelso Dunes Wilderness, BLM, California (site 58).  Adjacent to Mojave National Preserve, the dunes are mostly in the National Preserve area to the east.  The wilderness itself consists of the north end of the flat-topped volcanic Bristol Mountains, including Broadwell Mesa.  On the western boundary is Broadwell Dry Lake.  Vegetation is creosote bush.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Kiavah Wilderness, Sequoia NF and California Desert District, California (site 59).  The Scodie Mountains, which are a transition zone between the Sierra Nevada and Mojave Desert, contain canyons and include a section of the Pacific Crest Trail.  Ecoregions NA1203 and NA1308.

Kingston Range Wilderness, BLM Barstow and Needles Field Offices, California (site 60).  This extensive 200,000-acre wilderness in three units stretches from the Amargosa River, a perennial river, south to the Mojave National Preserve and includes the Dumont Hills, Kingston Peak, eastern Valjean Valley, Shadow Mountains, and Shadow Valley.  Sky islands with 17 miles of ridgeline above 6,000 feet support lush Joshua tree forests rising to pinyon juniper and white fir above 7,000 feet.  The area is part of the East Mojave Peaks IBA.  Ecoregion NA1308.

La Madre Mountain Wilderness, BLM Las Vegas Field Office and Spring Mountains National Recreation Area, Nevada (site 25).  Just to the west of Las Vegas is 9,600-foot La Madre Mountain, along with cliffs and canyons. Lovell Canyon, White Rock Cliffs, Turtlehead Mountain, and Red Rock Summit are included. Brownstone Canyon is on the National Register of Historic Places for petroglyphs.  Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area adjoins the wilderness to the south.  Ecoregion NA 1308.

Lime Canyon Wilderness, BLM Las Vegas Field Office, Nevada (site 61).  In the South Virgin Mountains, this wilderness borders Lake Mead National Recreation Area to the west.  There are two parallel ridges, including Lime Ridge and Gold Butte Wash.  Vegetation includes Joshua tree and creosote bush communities.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Malpais Mesa Wilderness, BLM Ridgecrest Field Office, California (site 62).  Located east of Owens Lake and the junction of California State Routes 136 and 190, the area includes all of Malpais Mesa and the north end of Talc City Hills.  Creosote bush, Joshua trees, and pinyon juniper vegetate the area, depending on the elevation.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Manly Peak Wilderness, BLM Ridgecrest Field Office, California (site 63).  At elevation 7,000 feet in the Panamint Mountains, Manley Peak is partly in Death Valley NP.  The area includes Big Horn, Coyote, and Redlands Canyons east of thePanamint Valley. Ecoregion NA1308.

North McCullough Wilderness, Sloan Canyon National Conservation Area, BLM Red Rock/Sloan Field Office, Nevada (site 9).  The volcanic McCullough Mountains support vegetation from the Mojave, Sonoran, and Great Basin deserts, but creosote bush and Joshua tree are dominant.  The area is noted for numerous petroglyph panels.  Ecoregion NA1308.

South McCullough Wilderness, BLM Las Vegas Field Office, Nevada (site 64).  Steep slopes and narrow canyons support pinyon-juniper and Joshua tree vegetation in this area south of McCullough Pass.  The area includes 7,000-foot McCullough Mountain and several springs.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Mesquite Wilderness, BLM Needles Field Office, California (site 65).  The northern part of the Clark Mountains, the Mesquite Mountains east of Winters Pass, and Mesquite Pass are in this area, which is north of Mojave National Preserve.  The Clark Mountains are noted for caves.  Vegetation is creosote bush, Joshua tree, and barrel cactus.  The wilderness provides critical habitat for the desert tortoise.  Ecoregion NA1308.

North Mesquite Mountains Wilderness, BLM Needles Field Office, California (site 65).   To the east of Kingston Range Wilderness, this area includes Sandy Valley as well as the Mesquite Mountains and is vegetated with creosote bush and Joshua tree.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Mojave Wilderness, Mojave National Preserve, California (site 11).  See description under Mojave National Preserve.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Mormon Mountains Wilderness, BLM Las Vegas Field Office, Nevada (site 66).  On the border between the Great Basin and Mojave Desert, the Mormon Mountains contain old growth ponderosa pine, archaeological sites, and paleontological sites.  Ecoregions NA1305 and 1308.

Mount Charleston Wilderness, Spring Mountains National Recreation Area and BLM Las Field Office, Nevada (site 25).  The site includes the 10,000-foot mountains to the west of Las Vegas including Charleston Peak, McFarland Peak, and Willow Peak.  It is the largest contiguous bristlecone pine forest, and protects 15 endemic mountain flowers.  There are 40 miles of trails.  The BLM portion is a mountain to the north ofTrout Canyon.  Ecoregions NA515 and NA1308.

Mount Nutt Wilderness, BLM Kingman Field Office, Arizona (site 67).  This area to the west of Kingman and east of Bullhead City includes volcanic topography which is inhabited by desert bighorn sheep.  Small oases support forests of cottonwood, willow, and oak.  In addition to Mount Nutt, other prominent features are Grapevine Canyon, Cottonwood Canyon,Thimble Mountain, and Battleship Mountain.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Mount Tipton Wilderness, BLM Kingman Field Office, Arizona (site 68).  To the east of US 93 north of Kingman are the Cerbat Mountains.  In addition to 7,000-foot Mount Tipton, this area includes maroon-colored rock formations called the Pinnacles. These are spires towering above the desert valley.  The BLM Windy Point Campground is just to the south of the boundary.  Joshua trees are at lower elevations and isolated pinyon-juniper, chaparral, and ponderosa pine forests are at higher elevations. Ecoregion NA1308.

Mount Wilson Wilderness, BLM Kingman Field Office, Arizona (site 69).  Eight miles of the Mount Wilson ridgeline are surrounded by the Lake Mead National Recreation Area; the mountains rise more than 3,000 feet above the desert floor.  Views are of Lake Mead in the distance.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Muddy Mountains Wilderness, BLM Las Vegas District and Lake Mead National Recreation Area, Nevada (site 70).  This area is known for slot canyons and Mojave Desert vegetation.  In addition to Muddy Peak, the area includes the Gale Hills and Bitter Ridge.  The Lake Mead portion contains an area known for red, yellow, magenta and orange rock outcrops called the Bowl of Fire.   Hidden Valley is also known for rock outcrops. Anniversary Narrows is a slot canyon.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Nellis Wash Wilderness, Lake Mead National Recreation Area, Nevada (site 71). Facing Lake Mojave in the southern part of  the recreation area, Nellis Wash Wilderness contains desert tortoise habitat and includes part of the Newberry Mountains and Catclaw Washes IBA.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Newberry Mountains Wilderness, BLM Barstow Field Office, California (site 72).  Located southeast of Barstow and to the south of I-40, the 5,000-foot Newberry Mountains are noted for deep canyons and spring wildflower displays.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Nopah Range Wilderness, BLM Barstow Field Office, California (site 73).  On the Nevada border south of Route 178 and north of KingstonRange, the area includes the Nopah and the southern Resting Springs Ranges, as well as the southern Chicago Valley and California portions of the Pahrump Valley.  Vegetation is creosote bush and yuccas.  Ecoregion NA1308.

South Nopah Range Wilderness, BLM Barstow Field Office, California (site 74).  The south Nopah Range and the west side of California Valley are included in this wilderness, which supports desert bighorn sheep and ivory-spined agave plants.  It is located to the east of Tecopah.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Old Woman Mountains Wilderness, BLM Needles Field Office, California (site 75).  The Old Woman Mountains extend 35 miles north-south and 28 miles east-west.  The wilderness is west of Ward Valley and north of Danby Dry Lake.  The Old Woman Statue and Carbonate Peak are prominent mountains.  Creosote bush and pinyon-juniper vegetation are dominant.  Springs and seeps provide riparian habitat, and the alluvial fans provide desert tortoise habitat.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Owens Peak Wilderness, BLM, California (site 40).  Located north of state route 178 at Walker Pass, this transition area between the Great Basin, Mojave Desert, and Sierra Nevada has a variety of vegetation types including creosote bush, yucca, oak, and pinyon-juniper. Owens Peak, Lamont Peak, Morris Peak, Five Fingers, Boulder Peak, and several canyons are prominent geographic features.  Ecoregions NA527, NA1203, and NA1308.

Pahrump Valley Wilderness, BLM, California (site 76).  The northern Kingston Range and the edges of three dry valleys—Pahrump,California, and Mesquite—are included.  Vegetation is creosote bush and yucca. Ecoregion NA1308.

Paiute Wilderness, BLM Arizona Strip District, Arizona (site 77).  The wilderness preserves the Virgin Mountains south of I-15 in northwestern Arizona.  The 8,000-foot Mount Bangs and Sullivan Canyon are major features.  The northern part is the Virgin River Narrows along I-15.  The southern part includes Black Rock Mountain, Sand Cove and Pocum Cove and is in the Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument.  Ecoregion NA1304 and NA1308.

Pinto Mountains Wilderness, BLM Barstow Field Office, California (site 78).  On the northern edge of Joshua Tree National Park, this two-unit wilderness includes part of the Pinto Mountains and MusicValley.  The eastern area includes the northern Pinto Basin.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Pinto Valley Wilderness, Lake Mead National Recreation Area, Nevada (site 79).  This area includes Guardian Mountain within the Black Mountains and dramatic drops to Lake Mead in Boulder Canyon; it is home to the Las Vegas bear poppy.  Ecoregion 1308.

Piute Mountains Wilderness, BLM Needles Field Office, California (site 80).  Located south of I-40 at exit 115, dominant vegetation is of creosote bush scrub.  Dry alluvial areas provide habitat for the desert tortoise.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Rainbow Mountain Wilderness, BLM Red Rock National Conservation Area and Spring Mountains National Recreation Area, Nevada (site 4).  This area extends from State Route 160 at Mountain Springs Summit north to Red Rock Canyon, where it adjoins La Madre Mountain Wilderness.  The area includes sandstone cliffs and canyons from 4,000 to 7,000 feet in elevation, and there is a high concentration of rock art.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Resting Spring Range Wilderness, BLM Barstow Field Office, California (site 81).  Between State Routes 127 and 178 and the Nevada state line, the Resting Spring Range, Shadow Mountain, Eagle Mountain, and Stewart Valley are included. Ecoregion NA1308.

Rodman Mountains Wilderness, BLM Barstow Field Office, California (site 82).  A large lava flow contains natural water storage tanks that contain thousands of gallons of water.  The area is a core raptor breeding area.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Sacatar Trail Wilderness, BLM Ridgecrest Field Office, California (site 83).  The transition between the Sierra Nevada and Mojave Desert includes Joshua trees and pinyon-juniper.  The area is located to the west of US Route 395, to the north of Nine Mile Canyon Road, and to the south of Coso Junction.  Ecoregions NA527 and NA1308.

San Gorgonio Wilderness, BLM Palm Springs Office and San Gorgonio Ranger District, San Bernardino NF, California (site 84).  Located to the west of the Morongo Valley and State Route 62 and to the north of I-10, this area is at the boundary between the Peninsular Ranges, Mojave Desert, and Sonoran Desert.  It is dominated by 11,000-foot San Gorgonio Mountain.  Ecoregions NA1203, 1308, 1310.

Sheephole Valley Wilderness, BLM Needles Field Office, California (site 85).  This large area to the northeast of Joshua Tree NP includes the Sheep Hole and Calumet Mountains, as well as extensive areas of sand dunes.  Vegetation is dominated by creosote bush.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Spirit Mountain Wilderness, Lake Mead National Recreation Area and BLM Southern Nevada District, Nevada (site 36).  This area includes the Pyramid Canyon area of Lake Mohave, Pipespring Canyon, Grapevine Canyon, and part of the Catclaw Washes IBA in the Newberry Mountains.  It is in the far southern part of the Lake Mead NRA adjacent to State Route 163.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Stateline Wilderness, BLM, California (site 65).  This area includes the eastern Clark Mountains and Stateline Pass just north of I-15 at the Nevada-California state line.  Vegetation is creosote bush and Joshua tree.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Stepladder Mountains Wilderness, BLM Needles Field Office, California (site 86).  In addition to a small mountain range, this area contains upper Chemehuevi Valley and is critical habitat for the desert tortoise.  Ecoregion NA1308

Surprise Canyon Wilderness, BLM Ridgecrest Field Office, California (site 87).  The surprise is unexpected springs in the canyon walls on the west side of thePanamint Range adjoining Death Valley NP.   The area also includes part of Panamint Valley.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Trilobite Wilderness, BLM, California (site 88).  The site encompasses the Marble Mountains and resident bighorn sheep south of I-40 and north of Amboy.  Vegetation is creosote bush scrub.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Turtle Mountains Wilderness, BLM, California (site 17).  Ecoregion NA1308.  See discussion under National Natural Landmarks.

Wabayuma Peak Wilderness, BLM Kingman Field Office, Arizona (site 89).  The Hualapai Mountains rise 5,000 feet above the desert floor and support both Sonoran and Mojave Desert vegetation, including the northernmost population of saguaro cactus.  The wilderness is the area between Walnut Creek and Mackenzie Wash and east of I-40.  Ecoregions NA1304, 1308 and 1310.

Warm Springs Wilderness, BLM Kingman Field Office, Arizona (site 90).  The wilderness includes the 1,000-foot high Black Mesa, Warm Spring Canyon, and a forest of cacti and ocotillo.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Wee Thump Joshua Tree Wilderness, BLM Las Vegas Field Office, Nevada (site 91).  Located adjacent to and north of Route 164, this dense stand of Joshua trees is in the Piute Valley.  This area provides mature trees for cavity-nesting birds.  It is an IBA for ash-throated flycatcher.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Whipple Wilderness, BLM, California (site 92).  Located north of Route 62, east of US 95, and west of Parker Dam, the Whipple Mountains have canyons and natural bridges.  Ecoregions NA1308 and NA1310.

 

XV .National Wildlife Refuge (NWR) System

Ash Meadows NWR, Nevada (site 2).  See description under Ramsar sites.

Coachella Valley NWR,California (site 93).  Sand dune habitat provides a sanctuary for the endangered Coachella Valley fringe-toed lizard.  There are 11 oases, including the Thousand Palms Oasis with the second largest concentration of fan palms in California.  Ecoregions NA1308 and 1310.

Desert National Wildlife Range, Nevada (site 94).  The largest refuge in the 48 contiguous states covers 1.6 million acres and has six mountain ranges with elevations up to 11,000 feet at the Sheep Range.  It provides bighorn sheep habitat.  The eastern part, which includes the Sheep Range, is an IBA for Mexican whip-poor-will.   Fossil Ridge provides marine fossils from the Paleozoic Era, which ended 250 million years ago.  A small spring in the south part of the refuge provides habitat for the Pahrump Valley poolfish, which was moved here from the Pahrump Valley to the north. Peek-a-Boo Canyon is dotted with caves.  Ecoregions NA515 and 1305.

Havasu NWR, Arizona and California (site 95).  The refuge protects waterfowl in a 30-mile section of the Colorado River, including 20 river miles of the scenic Topock Gorge, and is surrounded by desert vegetation of creosote bush, ocotillo and saguaro.  Desert tortoise and Gila monster may be found, along with desert bighorn sheep and willow flycatcher.  Most is designated wilderness.  The area is part of the Lower Colorado River Valley IBA.  Ecoregions NA1308 and NA1310.

Moapa Valley NWR, Nevada (site 96).  The refuge contains six thermal springs which provide habitat for the endangered Moapa dace.  This oasis in the desert has Washingtonia palms and riparian vegetation, making it an IBA for southwestern willow flycatcher and western yellow-billed cuckoo. Ecoregions NA1305 and 1308.

 

XVI.  Other Federal Sites

Big Morongo Canyon Preserve, BLM, California (site 97).  This desert oasis contains riparian woodland and alkali meadow and is an IBA for brown-crested flycatcher, summer tanager, and long-eared owl.  Ecoregion NA1308 and 1310. 

Chemehuevi Wash, BLM California (site 98).  Ecoregion NA1308.  The desert stream is part of the Colorado Desert microphyll woodlands IBA and is noted for long-eared owl, elf owl, and Gila woodpecker.  It is the only known nesting site in California for Bendire’s thrasher.  Ecoregion NA1308.

China Lake Naval Weapons Center, California (site 99). China Lake supports snow geese, waterfowl and shorebirds and is part of the North Mojave Dry Lakes IBA.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Desert Tortoise Natural Area, BLM Ridgecrest District, California (site 27).  This area has one of the highest known densities of the desert tortoise and is managed by a preserve committee.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Edwards Air Force Base, California (site 100).  Pristine Mojave Desert habitats such as mesquite woodland and dry lakes with wetlands are an IBA for white-faced ibis, ducks, and songbirds.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Harper Dry Lake, BLM, California (site 101).  This area is known for snowy plover and birds of prey and is part of the North Mojave Lakes IBA.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Horsethief Spring, BLM, California (site 102).  This is part of the East Mojave Springs IBA and is east of the Kingston Range Wilderness.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Koehn Lake, BLM, California (site 103).  Spring-fed wetlands and raptors qualify this area for inclusion in the North Mojave Dry Lakes IBA.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Oasis Valley, BLM, Nevada (site 104).  This area contains short stretches of permanent water from springs and wetlands in the mostly dry Amargosa River valley and is an IBA for an important bird migration corridor between the Great Basin and the Mojave Desert.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Tule Springs, BLM Las Vegas District, Nevada (site 105).  Just to the north of Las Vegas is a world-renowned fossil mammoth site; also fossils of ground sloth, camelope, lion, and bison were found here.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Virgin River, BLM, Nevada (site 106).  The free-flowing river from Mesquite to the Overton arm of Lake Mead is the only intact river in the Mojave desert and provides riparian habitat for endangered birds.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Ward Valley, BLM, California (site 80).  Initially chosen as a site for low-level radioactive waste disposal in 1988, the site was prevented from this use by legislation signed by California in 2002.  Ecoregion NA1308.

 

XVII.  State and Local Sites

Antelope Valley California Poppy State Natural Reserve, California (site 107).  Eight miles of trails extend through a spring wildflower area.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Big Bend of the Colorado State Recreation Area, Nevada (site 22).  This aquatic recreation area is located on the Colorado River downstream of Davis Dam, and provides two miles of shoreline, canyons, and washes.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Burns Pinon Ridge Reserve, UC Natural Reserve System, California (site 84).  Located at the triple point of the Mojave Desert, Sonoran Desert, and the Transverse Range of California, this area has pinyon-juniper and Joshua tree habitats.

Henderson Bird Viewing Preserve, Nevada (site 26).  This area has 90 acres of ponds which attract waterfowl as well as riparian birds.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Owens Lake, California (site 108).  This alkali playa supports brine flies, which in turn attract birds.  The site is an IBA for shorebirds, ducks, avocet, and snow geese.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Providence Mountains State Recreational Area, California (site 13).  Surrounded by Mojave National Preserve, this park includes Mitchell Caverns National Natural landmark (see), creosote scrub, bighorn sheep, and pinyon pine habitat.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Quail Creek State Park, Utah (site 7).  A reservoir recreation area off I-15.  Ecoregions NA1304 and 1308.

Red Rock Canyon State Park, California (site 103).  More than 27,000 acres of desert cliffs, buttes, and rock formations on the edge of the Mojave desert are reached by four-wheel drive and hiking. Hagan Canyon has a dry waterfall.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Arthur B. Ripley Desert Woodland State Park,California (site 107).  Joshua trees grow in the Antelope Valley.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Saddleback Butte State Park, California (site 109).  The butte rises 1,000 feet above the surrounding desert.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Snow Canyon State Park, Utah (site 7).  This area of sandstone cliffs and lava flows is habitat for the desert tortoise.  Trails lead to an extinct volcanic cinder cone and a sandstone area.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Spring Mountain Ranch State Park, Nevada (site 4).  This 500-acre park is surrounded by the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area (see).  Ecoregion NA1308.

Valley of Fire State Park, Nevada (site 18).  See description under National Natural Landmarks.

 

XVIII.  Other Natural Sites

Lytle Ranch, the Nature Conservancy, Utah (site 5).  This preserve managed by Brigham Young University is a migration corridor for migratory birds and an IBA for Gambel’s quail and Lucy’s warbler.  It is near the Nevada state line and includes Beaver Dam wash, a desert oasis with Joshua trees and cholla.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Mojave River, California (site 110).  The rushing brooks of the northern San Bernardino Mountains provide water for the desert, and the river disappears into the sand north of Barstow.  However, the area between Victorville and Helendale provides riparian vegetation for brown-crested flycatcher and summer tanager and is listed as an IBA.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Torrance Ranch Preserve, the Nature Conservancy, Nevada (site 104).  Located in the Oasis Valley east of Death Valley NP, this is an oasis restoration project.  Ecoregion NA 1308.

Walking Box Ranch Preserve, The Nature Conservancy, Nevada (site 91).  Located between the New York Mountains and the Newberry Mountains, this 151,000-acre area contains outstanding desert tortoise habitat.  Ecoregion NA1308.

White Dome Preserve, the Nature Conservancy,Utah (site 7).  The endangered dwarf bear poppy and threatened Siler pincushion cactus are found on gypsum-rich hills on the southern edge of St. George along the Virgin River.  Ecoregion NA1308.

 

Mojave Desert, Part I

Natural Areas of the Mojave Desert

Mojave Desert
Ecoregion of the Nearactic Biome Number 1308 on map.

Extent of Mojave Desert: 33 to 38 degrees North; 113 to 119 degrees West
Country (State): United States (Arizona,California,Nevada,Utah).

I.  Overview

Located adjacent to the crowded southern California Mediterranean ecosystems, the Mojave Desert is filled with military bases and is the site for new construction of renewable energy installations.  It is also filled with recreation lands, including national parks and wilderness areas.  It is not a barren desert, but is covered with typical vegetation of creosote bush, desert sage, and Joshua tree.  Native wildflowers provide displays in the spring.  Prior to the current renewable energy boom, the desert was home to mining operations in many areas.  After these areas were abandoned in the early 20th century, the area was left alone and not grazed, providing a natural experiment in ecosystem recovery.  As expected, soils that are severely disturbed and older soils take a long time to recover, and disturbances in these areas are essentially permanent, especially if the soil is compacted such as through use as a road.  Younger soils such as those created from debris flows recover relatively fast and the vegetation returns within 80 to 100 years (Brown 2000a).

Soils in the Mojave Deserthave been found to absorb carbon dioxide at night.  The magnitude is as much as a temperate forest.  If other deserts also exhibit this phenomenon, the effect could be huge, since 35 percent of the Earth’s land surface is desert or semiarid.  However, these findings have not explained where the carbon is going.  Some possibilities are to biotic crusts and expanded shrub cover.  In addition, it is possible that it is an ephemeral effect, and the carbon could be released during the day, for example (Stone 2008).  All of this indicates the many uncertainties in the understanding of the carbon cycle.

One native plant of the Mojave, Nicotiana attenuata, produces a floral nectar high in nicotine.  It is pollinated by hawkmoths and hummingbirds.  The combination of nicotine and floral scent does not make the plants more attractive to the pollinators, and in fact reduces the time a pollinator spends at each plant.  However, this promotes the plant’s interest because pollinators visit more plants and thus pollinate more.  In addition, nicotine deters caterpillars and carpenter bees, which would otherwise reduce reproductive success.  Thus, the best strategy is to attract a pollinator but then prevent them from loitering (Raguso 2008).

Another plant in the Mojave, Linanthus parryae, tends to flower in blue and white patches across the landscape.  For example, one side of a desert wash might be all blue while the other side might be all white.  This is currently attributed to natural selection due to local environmental differences; however, in the past, it was attributed to genetic drift, where blue flower seeds happened to land in one place and spread (Pennisi 2007).

Characteristic of the Mojave are dry lakes in the valleys.  In wetter years, these areas are briny, supporting microbes that can live in exceptionally high salinity.  Most microbes live by reducing sulfur or carbon.  However, at Searles Lake and the Trona Pinnacles National Natural Landmark in the northwestern Mojave, the brine is rich in the toxic element arsenic.  Microbes have been found to use this element for biological processes in the briny sediments.  Under aerobic conditions, arsenic III is oxidized.  Under anaerobic conditions in deeper sediments, arsenic V is reduced.  This takes the place of sulfate or carbonate reduction in other environments (Oremland et al. 2005).

At the Coso Mountains Wilderness, the Mojave Desert includes a group of volcanoes that last erupted more than 10,000 years ago but overlie large magma chambers.  These volcanoes are considered potentially dangerous, but not as immediate a threat as the cascade volcanoes further north (Kerr 1983).  Outside of volcanic areas, the desert has been relatively stable and sites such as Devils Hole,Nevada, have precipitated calcium carbonate for the last 500,000 years.  There are no apparent depositional hiatuses.  This can provide a unique climate record spanning several glacial cycles during the Pleistocene.  Evidence from Devils Hole indicates that there are relatively rapid shifts from full-glacial to interglacial climates followed by a gradual return to full glacial conditions.  Interglacial climates lasted about 20,000 years (Winograd et al. 1992).

In 1990, the desert tortoise was listed as a threatened species under the Endangered Species Act, causing virtually every project in theMojave Desertto consult with the US Fish and Wildlife Service prior to construction.  From the beginning, there were disputes over population counts of the tortoises, which hibernate underground during droughts (Brown 2000b).  In the Ivanpah Valley, California, in theMojave Desert, an ideal site for generating solar power also turned out to be an ideal site for desert tortoises, which are an endangered species.   Tortoises occur primarily on flats and alluvial fans adjacent to the mountains with soils ranging from sand to sandy-gravel, characterized by scattered shrubs and abundant interspace for growth of herbaceous plants. They occur in creosote bush, alkali sink, and tree yucca (Joshua tree) areas, places that are also ideal for new renewable power plant sites.  Desert washes and other areas with deep soil provide sites for the tortoises to burrow and escape the desert heat.  The 3,572-acre Ivanpah site, located on federal land to the east of Mojave National Preserve and to the south of Stateline Wilderness Area, was the subject of a Final Environmental Impact Statement (EIS) issued in August 2010.  During the EIS process, the expected power output of the project was reduced ten percent due to a redesign that reduced the project footprint by 12 percent and the number of 460-foot power towers from seven to three.  A Biological Opinion was issued by the US Fish and Wildlife Service onOctober 1, 2010, and the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) issued its Record of Decision onOctober 7, 2010.  A 30-year right-of-way grant was issued to BrightSource Energy.

Consistent with the Biological Opinion, BrightSource proceeded to fence the construction area and remove tortoises for relocation to a nearby site on BLM property.  The tortoises were placed in an on-site quarantine area for disease testing.  However, construction monitoring of perimeter fence installation around Units 2 and 3 in the winter and spring of 2011 indicated that these portions of the project might contain more desert tortoises than anticipated in the 2010 biological opinion.  The BLM requested revised consultation.  The revised biological opinion, dated June 10, 2011, reiterated the need to fence the construction area, collect tortoises, and relocate elsewhere.  It also required the rearing of young turtles and turtles from eggs until they were a size of 120 mm in length and five years of post-release monitoring.  The company was also required to fence I-15 in the translocation area to a standard that would exclude turtles.  As compensation for the 3,572 acres of public land lost to the solar facility, the California Energy Commission required BrightSource to acquire and restore good quality desert tortoise habitat at a ratio of 2:1, and to take actions on that newly acquired property to improve habitat quality, which could include restoration of closed roads, tortoise exclusion fencing along I-15 and US 95 and around the towns of Nipton, California, and Primm, Nevada, and elimination of invasive plant species.  An interest-bearing account was also established to bankroll a management fund for the new properties.

The project was anticipated to increase the number of common ravens, a potential tortoise predator, at the project site.  Brightsource was also therefore required to contribute to a management fund to reduce the numbers of common ravens in the area.

Another Mojave Desert solar project with tortoises present is the K Road Power project, a 350-MW photovoltaic generating station proposed for the Moapa Band of Paiute Indian Reservation on I-15 in Nevada.  This is the subject of an EIS completed onMarch 16, 2012.   The K Road project would be located on 2,153 acres of reservation land.  During an October 2010 desert tortoise survey, up to 103 turtles were estimated to occur on the area to be disturbed.  Similar to the Ivanpah project, the March 7, 2012, Biological Opinion requires the tortoises to be relocated and all construction activity to be monitored by desert tortoise biologists.  The project includes a 6,000-acre desert tortoise relocation area to the north of the I-15 and an additional 5,000 acres south of I-15 for desert tortoise relocation if needed.  The EIS looked at the impacts of an alternative site on the same reservation, but this site was estimated to have the same or greater effects on the desert tortoise

But these projects are not all that is underway in the desert tortoise habitat.  To date, 13 solar projects have been approved inCaliforniaandNevada, and more are under development.  Another one on I-10 in California, the Palen project, is awaiting a decision by BLM.  Under development on the reservation to the south of K Road Project is a concentrating solar project, Moapa Solar.  Also to the south ofK Road, another concentrating solar plant is under development on BLM land by BrightSource as the Apex North East Las Vegas project. Power line projects and pipeline projects will also likely have cumulative effects on the tortoise habitat.

Another long-running environmental battle in the Mojave Desert was over the siting of a low level radioactive waste facility.  It was proposed to be located at Ward Valley, on I-40 west of Needles, in 1988.  However, due to opposition by environmental and tribal groups, the state signed legislation in 2002 preventing the use of theWardValleyfor a nuclear waste facility.

II.  Terrestrial Ecoregions of the Neararctic Biome

Deserts & Xeric Shrublands

NA1308, Mojave Desert.  Characterized by creosote bush and Joshua trees.  Found inArizona,California,Nevada, andUtah.

III.  Freshwater Ecoregions

Xeric Freshwaters and Closed Basins

126, Lahontan.  This includes closed watersheds in the northernMojave Desert such as Sarcobatus Flat.

128, Death Valley, includes much of theMojave Desert, including the closed basins of Amargosa andMojaveRivers.  Large dry lake basins are those of Bristol Lake,Owens Lake,Searles Lake,Rogers Lake,Rosamond Lake, and Soda Lake in the Mojave Desert.  There are five endemic fish, 20 endemic mollusks and five endemic aquatic insects.

129,  Vegas-Virgin, includes the watersheds of the Meadow Valley Wash, Pahranagat Wash,Virgin River, and White River, all in the Las Vegas area and northward in Arizona, Nevada and Utah.  Endemic species are three species of spinedace,Virgin River chub, and Moapa speckled dace.

130, Colorado.  The portions of this large ecoregion included in this discussion are the Colorado upstream from Lake Havasu including the major tributaries of the Virgin in the Mojave Desert and the Little Colorado, San Juan, and Green in the Colorado Plateau.  Endemic fish are humpback chub, bonytail, and razorback sucker, and near-endemics are Colorado spine dace,Colorado pikeminnow, several suckers, and Apache trout.

IV.  World Heritage Site

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona (site 1).  The most spectacular gorge in the world, with two billion years of strata and seven life zones.  The park includes the north bank of the Colorado River from Pearce Ferry on Lake Mead to Navajo Bridge, and the south bank from the Hualapai Reservation to the Navajo Reservation.  The lower elevations of the park are in the Mojave Desert, the middle-elevations are in the Colorado Plateau, and the high elevations, including the visitor areas at the North Rim and South Rim, are in the Arizona Mountains forests.  The North Rim includes the Bright Angel Point area, Point Imperial, Point Sublime, Swamp Point, Toroweap Overlook, and and Cape Royal Overlook areas.  The South Rim includes the Grand Canyon Village, Hermits Rest, and Desert View areas.  Lipan and Yaki Points along the South Rim are an IBA for raptor migration, with 10,000 birds spotted during fall migration season at each location. Colorado River areas included in the park are Lower Granite Gorge, Middle Granite Gorge, Granite Gorge, and Marble Canyon. Marble Canyon is considered an IBA for California condor and waterfowl migrants.  Terrestrial ecoregions NA503, NA1308, and NA1304.

V.  Man and the Biosphere Reserve

Mojave and Colorado Desert,California.  A multi-unit biosphere reserve including Death Valley National Park, Joshua Tree National Park, Santa Rosa and San Jacinto Mountains National Monument, Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, and Philip L. Boyd Deep Canyon Desert Research Center in Palm Desert, California.  The parks and monuments are described in separate entries below.  Ecoregion NA1308.

VI.  Ramsar Site

Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge,Nevada (site 2).  Up to 30 spring-fed wetlands provide habitat for 25 endemic species, most famous of which is the Devil’s Hole pupfish.  The refuge is an IBA for warblers in migration and southwestern willow flycatcher.  Ecoregion NA1308.

VII.  National Forest (NF) System

Inyo NF, California and Nevada (site 3).  This 1.9-million-acre forest is on the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada, adjoining Yosemite National Park, Kings Canyon National Park, and Sequoia National Park.  Includes Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest, home to the oldest living trees on Earth; Big Pine Canyon, a dramatic glacier carved canyon with Palisades Glacier, the southernmost in the US;  Bishop Pass and Treasure Lakes, California Bighorn Sheep Zoological Area,  Grays Meadow, June Lake, Kern Wild and Scenic River, Mammoth Lakes, Mono Basin National Scenic Area (see description under WHSRN), Reds Meadow and Devils Postpile, Rock Creek, a glacier-carved valley with 50 lakes, and Whitney Portal.  The Long Valley Caldera was the site of a giant eruption 760,000 years ago; ash from the eruption is found as far east as Nebraska.  Eruptioins at Obsidian Dome, South Deadman Doe, and Panum Crater were 500 to 800 years ago, creating the youngest mountain range in North America.  The area is volcanically active; trees on Horseshoe Lake and Mammoth Mountain were recently killed by high carbon dioxide levels, and Hot Creek Geological Site has geysers and mudpots.  Glass Mountain, southeast of Mono Lake, is part of the Mono Hills IBA, and is noted for long-eared owl and northern harrier. Adobe Valley, also southeast of Mono Lake, is a spring-fed valley and IBA for snowy plover, shorebirds, and greater sage grouse.  The Valentine Eastern Sierra Reserve of the UC Natural Reserve System is located in Mammoth Lakes.  Ansel Adams Wilderness, Boundary Peak Wilderness, Golden Trout Wilderness, Hoover Wilderness, Inyo Mountains Wilderness, John Muir Wilderness, South Sierra Wilderness, and White Mountain Wilderness are included in its boundaries.  Ecoregions NA527, 1305, and 1308.

Spring Mountains National Recreation Area,Toiyabe NF, Nevada (site 4). Charleston Peak hosts bristlecone pines and provides scenic views of the surrounding desert.  Wilderness areas are La Madre Mountain, Mount Charleston and Rainbow Mountain.  The area is an IBA for flammulated owl.  Ecoregions NA515 and NA1305.

VIII.  National Landscape Conservation System (wilderness areas are in a separate list below)

Beaver Dam Wash National Conservation Area, BLM St. George Field Office,Utah (site 5).  This transition between the Mojave Desert and Great Basin, in the southwestern corner of Utah, contains the northernmost stand of tree yuccas, or Joshua trees.  The Joshua Tree National Natural Landmark is included in this area. Ecoregion NA1308.

Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument, BLM, Arizona (site 6 on map).  The monument includes overlooks of the western Grand Canyon managed by the National Park Service, including Kelly Point, Twin Point, and Whitman Canyon.  The BLM portions of the monument include Grand Wash Cliffs Wilderness, Mount Trumbull Wilderness, Mount Logan Wilderness, and part of Paiute Wilderness.  The BLM portion also includes canyons, mountains, and buttes of the Shivwits Plateau and Grand Wash Cliffs, the latter of which is the boundary between theMojave Desert and the Colorado Plateau.  Ecoregions NA1304 and NA1308.

Red Cliffs National Conservation Area, BLM St. George Field Office, Utah (site 7).  Just to the south of the Pine Valley Mountains of the Dixie NF, this area includes the Cottonwood Canyon and Red Mountain wilderness areas.  It is meeting place of three ecoregions (Colorado Plateau, Great Basin, and Mojave Desert) and protects the desert tortoise.  Populations here are the densest in its range.  Adjacent is Snow Canyon State Park.  Ecoregions NA 1304 and 1308.

Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, BLM Las Vegas Field Office,Utah (site 8).  The edge of theSpring Mountains west of Las Vegas provide the backdrop for this area, which has a 13-mile scenic drive and 30 miles of trails.  The area extends from US 95 on the north to State Route 160 on the south.  A sandstone escarpment and thickets of Joshua trees characterize the area.  The area contains the first documented dinosaur tracksite in Nevada.  Trails lead toOak Creek Canyon, Pine Creek Canyon, Ice Box Canyon, First Creek Canyon, Calico Tanks, Keystone Thrust, andTurtlehead Peak. Ecoregion NA1308.

Sloan Canyon National Conservation Area,Nevada (site 9).  Located just to the south of Henderson and to the west of Boulder City, the centerpiece is an area of 300 rock art panels. Vegetation is creosote bush and associated species.  The North McCullough Wilderness (see) is within the National Conservation Area.  Ecoregion NA1308.

IX.  National Natural Landmarks (NNLs)

Amboy Crater, BLM Needles Field Office,California (site 10).  The recent volcanic cinder cone has a flat crater floor and erupted about 500 years ago.  It is about 1,500 feet across.  Wildflowers are in the crater floor.  Surrounding the crater are 24 square miles of lava flows with lava tubes and spatter cones.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Cinder Cones, Mojave National Preserve,California (site 11).  The NNL consists of 20 large cinder cones in the Cima Dome area with extensive lava flows.  The cones are mostly in the area bordered by I-15, Cima Road, and Kelbacker Road.  Ecoregion NA1308.  Also see Mojave National Preserve (below).

Grapevine Mesa Joshua Trees, BLM Kingman Field Office,Arizona (site 12).  The best display of Joshua trees in theU.S. is to the southwest of Meadview, Arizona.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Joshua Tree Area, Beaver Dam Wash NCA,Utah (site 5).  See discussion under Beaver Dam Wash unit of National Landscape Conservation System.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Mitchell Caverns,California (site 13).  Part of Providence Mountains State Recreation Area, the limestone caverns began their formation a million years ago when the area was wetter than today.  The rocks themselves are of Pennsylvanian and Permian age (300 million years in age).  Ecoregion NA1308.

Rainbow Basin Area of Critical Environmental Concern, BLM Barstow Field Office, California (site 14).  This major fossil site contains evidence of insects and Miocene mammals, including horses, camels, mastodons, and saber tooth cats.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Timber Mountain Caldera,  Nevada National Security Site (Department of Energy), Nevada (site 15).  An extensive field 25-km across that erupted 12 million to 10,000 years ago.  Ecoregions NA1305 and NA1308.

Trona Pinnacles,BLM Ridgecrest District, California (site 16).  These are 500 or so tufa pinnacles in the dry SearlesLake.  The pinnacles are in the shape of towers, tombstones, ridges, and cones and are up to 140 feet in height.  This area is a mining lease for borax mining but contains spring-fed wetlands that make it part of the North Mojave Dry Lakes IBA.  See overview for discussion of arsenic-tolerant microbes.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Turtle Mountains Wilderness, BLM Needles Field Office,California (site 17).  The area is made up of volcanic peaks in the transition between the Mojave and Sonoran deserts.  The volcanic Mopah Range, Horn Peak, Castle Rock, and part of Ward Valley are included in the wilderness.  The southern half is Precambrian rocks and the northern half is Tertiary period volcanic rocks.  Rocks include chalcedony deposits.  Dominant vegetation is creosote bush scrub and palo verde-cactus shrub.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Valley of Fire State Park,Nevada (site 18).  The NNL designation is because of an outstanding example of thrust faulting.  The park contains a six-mile long valley lined with sandstone sculptures, arches, and spires.  Notable rock formations are called the Beehives, Atlatl Rock, White Domes, Seven Sisters, and Elephant Rock.  There are 225-million-year-old petrified logs and petroglyphs.  Ecoregion NA1308.

X.  National Park (NP) System

Death Valley NP, California and Nevada (site 19).  The largest park in the lower 48 states straddles the Great Basin and Mojave Desert ecoregions.  Eureka Dunes NNL is in the Great Basin portion, and 11,000-footTelescope Peak and the Panamint Range is part of the Great Basin montane forests ecoregion. BadwaterBasin is the well-known area 282 feet below sea level.  Northern areas of the park have sand dunes and Ubehebe Crater, a volcanic cinder cone that erupted 2,000 years ago when magma mixed with ground water and exploded, leaving a 600-feet deep crater.  Trails lead through pinyon-juniper and conifer forests to Wildrose Peak andTelescope Peak on the west side of the park.  Part of the Mojave and Colorado Deserts biosphere reserve.  Ecoregions NA515, 1305, and 1308

Grand Canyon NP, Arizona (site 1).  See description under world heritage sites.

Joshua Tree NP, California (site 20).  Although known for the iconic yucca trees, this is also a rock climbing area.  Rocks rise from the desert floor in squared columns and pillars.  Major points of interest arePark Boulevard, with its rock formations and Ryan Mountain, Hidden Valley and the Wonderland of Rocks, Desert Queen Ranch, Cholla Cactus Garden, and Lost Palms Oasis.  The southern parts of the park have cholla cactus and creosote bush as the area grades into the Sonoran Desert.  Part of the Mojave and Colorado Deserts biosphere reserve.  Ecoregions NA1308 and NA1310.

Lake Mead National Recreation Area,Arizona andNevada (site 21).  Lakes Mead (behind Hoover Dam) and Lake Mohave (behind Davis Dam downstream from Hoover Dam) provide the focus for this parkland.  Major visitor areas are Cottonwood Cove, Katherine Landing and Willow Beach on Lake Mohave; and Boulder Beach, Callville Bay, Echo Bay, Las Vegas Bay, South Cove, and Temple Bar on Lake Mead.  Major Colorado River canyons upstream of Hoover Dam which can be viewed by boat are Boulder Canyon, Virgin Canyon, and Iceberg Canyon.  Downstream from Hoover Dam are Nevada Hot Springs and Arizona Hot Springs, which are in scenic canyons with waterfalls. Lake Mohave’s Grapevine Canyon has springs and lush vegetation.   The North Shore Road passes two other springs on the Overton Arm of Lake Mead, Rogers and Blue Point.  Wilderness areas include Black Canyon, Bridge Canyon, Eldorado, IretebaPeak, Jimbilnan, Muddy Mountains, Nellis Wash, Pinto Valley, and Spirit Mountain (see all).  The cliffs along Lake Mead and Lake Mohave are an IBA for raptors.  The Catclaw Washes on the eastern slope of the Newberry Mountains in the southern part of the NRA (Spirit Mountain and Nellis Wash Wilderness areas) are an IBA for painopepla.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Mojave National Preserve,California (site 11).  Mountains with Joshua trees, dunes, and lava flows.  Cima Dome rises 1500 feet above the surrounding desert and is covered with Joshua tree forests.  The California State University Sweeney Granite Mountains Desert Research Center is located here.  The New York Mountains have a botanical island of chaparral in the desert and are part of the East Mojave Peaks IBA, along with the Clark Mountains, also in the preserve.  The Kelso Dunes are an active dune system.   Cinder Cone National Natural Landmark consists of 20 large cinder cones with extensive lava flows.  Cima Dome is a vast Joshua tree woodland, the largest in the world, and is an IBA for gilded flicker, Bendire’s thrasher, LeConte’s thrasher, and crissal thrasher.  Piute Spring and Cornfield Spring are part of the East Mojave Springs IBA. Ecoregion NA1308.

XI.  Federal Recreation Lakes

Davis Dam and Lake Mohave, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona-Nevada (site 22).  This dam on theColorado River 68 miles downstream from Hoover Dam was constructed to regulate 1.5 million acre-feet of water to Mexico.  The dam and reservoir are within the Lake Mead National Recreation Area (see).  Ecoregion NA1308.

Hoover Dam and Lake Mead, Bureau of Reclamation, Arizona-Nevada (Site 23).  See Lake Mead National Recreation Area in National Park System.

Parker Dam and Lake Havasu, Arizona-California (site 24).  This dam on the Colorado River is the diversion point for the Colorado River aqueduct to California and the Hayden-Rhodes, Fannin-McFarland, and Tucson aqueducts of the Central Arizona Project.  It is known as the deepest dam in the world, with its base 235 feet below theColorado River bed.  The 45-mile long Lake Havasu covers 32 square miles in area.  See Havasu NWR.  Ecoregions NA 1308 and 1310.

XII.  National Trail System

Mount Charleston National Recreation Trail (NRT), Spring Mountains National Recreation Area,Utah (site 25).  This eight-mile trail traverses an ancient bristlecone pine forest and offers views of Las Vegas.  Ecoregion NA515.

River Mountains Loop NRT, BLM, Lake Mead, City of Henderson, and City of Boulder,Nevada (site 26).  This paved 35-mile trail makes a loop between Lake Mead and Las Vegas, connecting Hoover Dam.  Ecoregion NA1308.

Twenty Mule Team NRT,California (site 27).  In the Rand Mountains, beginning at Borax Bill Park, this trail extends for 12 miles near California City.  Ecoregion NA1308.

XIII.  National Wild and Scenic River System

Amargosa River, BLM Barstow Field Office,California (site 28).  This river flows from Nevada south into Death Valley.  The 26-mile section atTecopaBasin has hanging gardens, a slot canyon, and a waterfall.  Ecoregion NA1308.

FurtherReading

Brown, Kathryn.  2000a. Ghost Towns Tell Tales of Ecological Boom and Bust.  Science 290:35-37.

Brown, Kathryn.  2000b. Ecologists Spar Over Population Counts of Threatened Desert Tortoise.  Science 290:36.

Ivanpah Solar Electric:  http://www.blm.gov/ca/st/en/prog/energy/fasttrack/ivanpahsolar/fedstatus.html

K Road Power:  http://projects2.pirnie.com/MoapaSolar/index.cfm?fuseaction=FEIS

Kerr, Richard A.  1983.   Volcanoes to Keep an Eye on.  Science 221:634-635.

Mohlenbrock, Robert H.  1984.  The Field Guide to U.S.National Forests.  Congdon and Weed, Inc.

O’Gara, Geoffrey.  2000.  Guide to America’s Outdoors: Far West.  National Geographic Society,Washington,DC.

Oremland, Ronald S., Thomas R. Kulp, Jodi Switzer Blum, Shelley E. Hoeft, Shaun Baesman, Laurence G. Miller, and John F. Stolz.  2005.  A Microbial Arsenic Cycle in a Salt-Saturated, Extreme Environment.  Science 308:1305-1308.

Palen Solar Power:  http://www.blm.gov/ca/st/en/prog/energy/fasttrack/palen/fedstatus.html

Pennisi, Elizabeth.  2007.  Natural Selection, Not Chance, Paints the Desert Landscape.  Science 318:376.

Raguso, Robert A.  2008.  The “Invisible Hand” of Floral Chemistry.  Science 321:1163-1164.

Stone, Richard.  2008.  Have Researchers Discovered a Hidden Loop in the Carbon Cycle?  Science 320:1409-1410.

UNESCO-Man and the Biosphere Reserves Directory.  http://www.unesco.org/mabdb/br/brdir/directory/database.asp (accessed5/30/11).

White, Mel.  2000.  Guide to America’s Outdoors:  Southwest.  National Geographic Society.

Winograd, Isaac J., Tyler B. Coplen, Jurate M. Landwehr, Alan C. Riggs, Kenneth R. Ludwig, Barney J. Szabo, Peter T. Kolesar, and Kinga M. Revesz.  1992.  Continuous 500,000-Year Climate Record from Vein Calcite in Devils Hole, Nevada.  Science 258:255-260.

World Heritage List.  http://whc.unesco.org/en/list (accessed5/22/11).

 

Colorado Plateau Shrublands and Arizona Mountain Forests, Part II

Dramatic escarpments characterize the public lands managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and other agencies on the Colorado Plateau.  The San Rafael Swell in Utah rises 2,000 feet, as do the Grand Wash Cliffs on the western Colorado Plateau on the Nevada-Arizona border.  Fossil Creek, now a wild and scenic river, originally was part of a hydroelectric development that has now been decommissioned.  Designated wilderness areas preserve canyons to the south and west of Flagstaff, including Sycamore Canyon in a wilderness of the same name and West Fork Oak Creek (Red Rock-Secret Mountain Wilderness).  Also, volcanoes that are part of the San Francisco Peaks area such as Kendrick Mountain and Strawberry Crater, as well as Humphreys Peak itself, are included in wilderness areas.

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Colorado Plateau Shrublands and Arizona Mountains Forests

The world’s best record of terrestrial Cretaceous life, Merriam’s life zones, and Colorado River silt

I.  Map boundaries: 33 to 40 degrees North; 110 to 114 degrees West

II.  Country (State): United States (Arizona, Utah).

III.  Overview

This map area includes the western Colorado Plateau, which is marked by dramatic escarpments along all its boundaries, leaving little doubt of its boundaries. To the south, it abruptly drops off at the Mogollon Rim in the Apache and Coconino NFs. To the west, there are the cliffs of the Grand Canyon and Grand Canyon Parashant National Monument. To the north, the Wasatch Plateaus drop off dramatically into the Great Basin. Continue reading