Palouse Grasslands, Part I

The Palouse grasslands (NA813) as delineated by the World Wildlife Fund and Nature Conservancy include portions of Idaho, Oregon, and Washington which are in the rain shadow of the Cascades. This description also includes the Okanagan Valley of British Columbia because of its grassland habitat extending north from the US-Canada border. The ecoregion is characterized by native bluebunch wheatgrass and Idaho fescue with scattered shrubs. The habitat is maintained by fire. Locations within the Palouse grasslands are described below. Many areas have been extensively modified by agriculture; the agricultural landscape is characterized by yellow rapeseed flowers in the spring. Cities in the habitat include Osoyoos, British Columbia; Cheney, Chelan, Okanogan, Pullman, and Walla Walla, Washington; Moscow and Lewiston, Idaho; and Pendleton, Oregon.

The areas of the Palouse grasslands between Spokane and Grand Coulee are part of the Channeled Scablands, an unusual landscape of scour channels called coulees and dry river valleys that once carried tremendous amounts of water. The idea that these features were created during a catastrophic flood was first proposed during the 1920s by J. Harlen Bretz. His proposals were met with skepticism until the source of the flood, a failed ice dam at glacial Lake Missoula, was confirmed at a meeting of the American Association for the Advancement of Science in the 1940s (Baker 1978). Other evidence of glaciation is evident in the Palouse grasslands at Boulder Park and Sims Corner National Natural Landmarks described below.

There is one National Historic Landmark in the Palouse grasslands ecoregion. Marmes Rockshelter, Washington (N46˚35’ W118˚13’), is at the confluence of the Snake and Palouse Rivers, but is now submerged by Lower Monumental Reservoir.  The site provides evidence of human occupation for over 8,000 years and contains the oldest human remains excavated in the New World, at 11,000 years BP. Also found at the site was a Jefferson Peace Medal, evidence of contact with the Lewis and Clark expedition.

There are 13 National Natural Landmarks in the Palouse grasslands ecoregion.

Boulder Park and McNeil Canyon Haystack Rocks, Washington (N47˚53’ W119˚48’ (Boulder Park) and N47˚50’ W119˚54’ (McNeil Canyon)) have the greatest concentration of glacial erratics in the Columbia Plateau. The two sites are east of Chelan and east of the Columbia River on the Waterville Plateau.  McNeil Canyon is on the east side of the Columbia River north of the US Route 97 crossing.  Boulder Park is seven miles west of Mansfield, then four miles north of Route 172.

Davis Canyon Natural Area Preserve, Washington (N48˚15’ W119˚46’) is a 415-acre site and the largest and least disturbed antelope bitterbrush-Idaho fescue community known.  It is located south of Okanogan and west of the Okanogan River.

Grand Coulee, Washington, is between the town of Grand Coulee (N47˚56’ W119˚1’) on the Columbia River and Soap Lake (N47˚24’ W119˚30’). This 50-mile-long ice age flood channel was carved by the periodic floods originating from Lake Missoula. Perhaps a highlight of the steep-sided channel is the dramatic Dry Falls (N47˚36’ W119˚21’)), a 400-foot dry waterfall 3.5 miles wide, now in Sun Lakes/Dry Falls State Park. Also occupying Grand Coulee upstream of Dry Falls is Banks Lake/Dry Falls Dam (N47˚37’ W119˚19’), a Bureau of Reclamation irrigation storage facility within the Columbia Project, and Steamboat Rock State Park (N47˚52’ W119˚8’), a steep-sided mountain surrounded by the flood channel.

Grande Ronde Feeder Dikes, Washington (N46˚3’ W117˚15’), are examples of the basalt dikes which fed the Columbia flood basalt event during a plate boundary collision. The privately owned site is at State Route 129 at the Grande Ronde River.

Grande Ronde Goosenecks, Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Grande Ronde Area of Critical Environmental Concern and Chief Joseph Wildlife Management Area, Washington (N46˚3’ W117˚1’), illustrate the regional uplift of the Columbia Plateau, with stream entrenchment into the uplifted area. In this area, extreme elevation changes range from less than 1,000 feet to more than 4,000 feet, with a 1,500-foot-deep canyon along the lower Grande Ronde River.

Kahlotus Ridgetop Natural Area Preserve, Washington (N46˚42’ W118˚34’), is four miles north of Kahlotus off State Route 21.  This 240-acre native prairie remnant is the best remaining example of Palouse prairie grassland.

Lawrence Memorial Grassland Preserve, The Nature Conservancy, Oregon (N44˚57’ W120˚48’) is three miles southwest of Shaniko off State Route 218; this area has peculiar biscuit-shaped mounds 10 to 20 m wide and 100-120 cm high. There are undisturbed grasslands of bunchgrass with sagebrush.

Rose Creek Preserve, Palouse-Clearwater Environmental Institute, Washington (N46˚50’ W117˚13’), is on Shawnee Road northeast of Albion and is the best remaining example of aspen-black hawthorne-cow parsnip habitat in the Columbia Plateau.

Sims Corner Eskers and Kame Complex, Washington (N45˚50’ W119˚22), are at the junction of Routes 17 and 172 north of Coulee City. Numerous glacial features are evident, including scattered glacial erratics, eskers, and kames.  Glacial erratics are boulders which rode on top of the ice and are out of place compared to the surrounding geology.  Eskers are long winding ridges which formed in streams under glaciers. Kames are irregularly shaped hills formed by retreating glaciers. Route 172 heading west from Sims Corner passes several eskers, the Pot Hills, and Yeager Rock, a 20-foot high glacial erratic just east of Mansfield.

Steptoe Butte State Park, Washington (N47º2’ W117º18’) and Kamiak Butte County Park, Whitman County, Washington (N46º52’ W117º10’) are quartzite outliers of the Coeur d’Alene Mountains in the Palouse Prairie. Both mountains rise more than 1,000 feet above the surrounding terrain and provide 200-mile vistas. The Pine Ridge National Recreation Trail encircles Kamiak Butte.

Withrow Moraine and Jameson Lake Drumlin Field, Washington (N47˚41’ W119˚37’), are on the 4,000-acre Nature Conservancy Moses Coulee Preserve. Withrow Moraine is the terminal lobe and debris deposit of the Okanagon Glacier which blocked Moses Coulee, forcing the Columbia River to form the Grand Coulee. Under the glacier were the egg-shaped grooved hills called drumlins, which are visible to the east of Jameson Lake. The Dutch Henry Falls hiking trail (N47˚39’ W119˚40’) goes by a 200-foot wall of rocks, part of the Withrow Moraine. Dutch Henry Falls is north of US Route 2 in the Moses Coulee. South of US Route 2 is McCartney Creek Meadows (N47˚30’ W119˚44’), also on the preserve. The preserve is home to the pygmy rabbit, spotted bat, and 14 of the 15 bat species that inhabit Washington. Moses Coulee is an IBA for songbird migration.

Zumwalt Prairie Preserve, The Nature Conservancy, Oregon (N45˚33’ W116˚55’), is a 33,000-acre property, 4,000 acres of which were designated a national natural landmark. Elevations range from 2,000 to 5,500 feet on the largest remaining intact bunchgrass prairie in North America. Four trails have been developed for access, and Duckett Road (County Road 676) provides a ten-mile drive from high elevation prairie to the canyon near Imnaha. Trails are Horned Lark Trail off of Zumwalt-Buckhorn Road (County Road 697 north of State Route 82 at Enterprise); and Patti’s Trail, Harsin Butte Trail, and Canyon Vista Trail, all off of Duckett Road.

The National Forest System in the Palouse grasslands includes two national forests and the Hells Canyon National Recreation Area (NRA), Idaho-Oregon, which is 652,000 acres. The Dug Bar site of the Nez Perce NHP (see) is located on the Snake River within the NRA. It is accessible by following the Imnaha River Road north (downstream) through the NRA from Imnaha. Imnaha River is a wild and scenic river for 60 miles in the national recreation area from the Eagle Cap Wilderness (N45˚6’ W117˚4’) downstream to the Snake River (N45˚49’ W116˚46’). Its elevation drop is more than 7,000 feet. The Imnaha River Road (Forest Road 3955) follows the Imnaha River upstream to the Hells Canyon Scenic Byway. Basin Creek RNA (N45˚40’ W116˚49’) is a 400-acre area near the Imnaha River with Idaho fescue and bluebunch wheatgrass plant communities. Hat Point Road (Forest Road 4240) climbs from the Imnaha River (N45˚33’ W116˚49’) up the cliffs of Grizzly Ridge to Saddle Creek Overlook and on to Hat Point (N45˚26’ W116˚40’) for one of the most spectacular views. It is a one-lane unpaved road. Buckhorn Overlook (N45˚45’ W116˚49’) and Cache Creek Ranch on the Snake River (N45˚59’ W116˚54’) are also in the Palouse Prairie portion of the NRA.

Wallowa NF, Oregon, is 995,000 acres, administered together with the Whitman NF. Much of the eastern portion is part of the Hells Canyon NRA (see separate description). Joseph Creek is a wild and scenic river for nine miles from Joseph Creek Ranch (N45˚48’ W117˚11’) downstream to the Wallowa NF boundary (N45˚52’ W117˚15’). It is a 2,000-foot-deep canyon with exposed rimrock. To the east of Joseph Creek is Haystack Rock RNA (N45˚53’ W117˚13’), which is 425 acres with Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, and Talus garland plant communities. Also to the east of Joseph Creek is Horse Pasture Ridge RNA (N45˚53’ W117˚12’), 340 acres with Idaho fescue and bunchgrass plant communities. The Joseph Canyon Viewpoint (N45˚50’ W117˚16’), a site of the Nez Perce National Historical Park, is located on State Route 3 south of the Washington State Line. The deep canyon to the east of Route 3 is Swamp Creek, which contains outstanding scenery from its confluence with Joseph Creek (N45˚49’ W117˚4’) upstream to the forest boundary (N45˚36’ W117˚13’). To the southeast, Vance Knoll RNA (N45˚42’ W116˚57’) is 190 acres of scabland with a Sandberg’s bluegrass/one-spike oatgrass plant community.

The southeastern portion of the forest is mostly the watershed of Big Sheep Creek, which is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from the Eagle Cap Wilderness boundary (N45˚11’ W117˚6’) to the Imnaha River confluence (N45˚33’ W116˚50’).

Wenatchee NF, Washington, includes lower slopes of the eastern Cascades that include grasslands along the Columbia River. The Thompson Clover RNA (N47˚34’ W120˚18’) is just north of Rocky Reach Dam/Lake Entiat in Swakane Canyon and includes a rare species of clover on grassy hillsides below ponderosa pine woodland.

The National Park System in the Palouse grasslands ecoregion includes four parks, of which one is paleontological, two are historic, and one is a national recreation area. John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, Oregon, consists of three units, which together provide the most complete record of terrestrial land mammal evolution in the northern Hemisphere extending over 44 million years. One unit is in the Palouse Prairie ecoregion. Clarno Unit (N44˚55’ W120˚25’) is 2,000 acres on State Route 218 between the towns of Antelope and Fossil. It features trails leading to an arch and petrified wood and is known for 150-foot-high rock formations overlooking the area called The Palisades. The Clarno Nut Beds contain 175 species of trees, shrubs, and trees from a tropical forest that lived 44 million years ago. Clarno is also the most species-rich petrified wood area in the world, and fossil panthers, horses, crocodiles have been found. The Hancock Mammal Quarry (40 million years old) contains fossil horses, brontotheres, and bear-like mammals. The Oregon Museum of Science and Industry operates Hancock Field Station (N44˚55’ W120˚26’) as a private inholding in the Clarno Unit. It is used for school field trips and as an educational camp.

Nez Perce National Historical Park, Idaho-Montana-Oregon-Washington, consists of sites commemorating the stories, events, and artifacts of the Nez Perce Tribe. Of the 38 sites comprising the park, 22 are in the Palouse Prairie:

  • Ant and Yellowjacket, Idaho (N46˚27’ W116˚51’), commemorates a story about an argument between Ant and Yellowjacket which resulted in them being turned into a stone arch. The site is nine miles east of Lewiston on US Route 12.
  • Buffalo Eddy, Washington (N46˚11’ W116˚57’) is 15 miles south of Asotin on the Snake River and is the site of petroglyphs dating to 4,500 before present.
  • Camas Prairie, Idaho (N45˚55’ W116˚14’) is south of Grangeville on US Route 95.  This was a root gathering area for the Nez Perce tribe.
  • Confluence Overlook, Idaho (N46˚27’ W117˚1’) is at the top of Lewiston Hill on US 95. It provides an overlook of a trading post site at the confluence of the Clearwater and Snake Rivers.
  • Canoe Camp, Idaho (N46˚30’ W116˚20’), at the confluence of the North Fork Clearwater and Clearwater, was where the Lewis and Clark expedition built canoes for travel to the Pacific Ocean in 1805. The site is four miles west of Orofino on US Route 12.
  • Clearwater Battlefield, Idaho (N46˚5’ W115˚59’), on State Route 13 south of Stites,  is the site of an 1877 attempt to engage the Nez Perce, but the tribe withdrew.
  • Cottonwood Skirmishes, Idaho (N46˚1’ W116˚20’), took place two miles south of Cottonwood on US Route 95. This was the site of additional hostility between the US Army and the Nez Perce after the White Bird Battle.
  • Coyote’s Fishnet, Idaho (N46˚27’ W116˚53’) is a group of rock formations on US 95-12 seven miles east of Lewiston which commemorates a story about an argument between Coyote and Black Bear.
  • Craig Donation Land Claim, Idaho (N46˚21’ W116˚46’) is located on US Route 95 south of Lapwai. William Craig was a mountain man and the first Euro-American settler in Idaho. In 1840, he settled in the Lapwai Valley. He was an interpreter in the negotiations that led to the establishment of the Nez Perce Reservation, and as a result he was allowed to keep his homestead.
  • Dug Bar, Oregon (N45˚48’ W116˚41’), is on the Snake River in Hells Canyon National Recreation Area and Snake Wild and Scenic River. The site is best accessed by boat, but there is a road from the Imnaha River that can be driven by high clearance vehicle. Tribal members who lived in Oregon crossed the Snake River here in 1877 on their way to the reservation in Idaho. The crossing was in the spring when the water was high, making the crossing more hazardous than usual and resulting in the loss of cattle.
  • Hasotino Village, Lower Granite Reservoir, Idaho (N46˚21’ W117˚3’) is an 11,000-year-old prehistoric village site used for lamprey fishing.
  • Fort Lapwai and Northern Idaho Indian Agency, Idaho (N46˚24’ W116˚49’) are on US Route 95 south of Spalding. This is the location of an 1862 US Army fort and the agency set up to administer the treaties with the tribes in the area.
  • Lenore, Idaho (N46˚31’ W116˚37’) is on US Route 12 about 25 miles east of Lewiston and is the site of a prehistoric Nez Perce village with pit houses.
  • Lostine Campsite, Oregon (N45˚33’ W117˚29’) is at the junction of the Lostine and Wallowa Rivers near Wallowa. This is a traditional Nez Perce summer campsite where Old Chief Joseph died in 1871.
  • Nez Perce Cemetery and Nez Perce Campsites, Washington (N48˚10’ W118˚59’), are in Nespelem on the Colville Reservation and not publicly accessible. The graves of Chief Joseph the Younger and other participants in the war of 1877 are here. They moved here after exile in Oklahoma.
  • Old Chief Joseph’s Gravesite, Oregon (N45˚20’ W117˚13’) is in a cemetery on State Route 82 near Wallowa Lake dam. The father of Chief Joseph was reburied here in 1926 among other Nez Perce graves. He signed the original treaty of 1855 but refused to sign other treaties and compelled his son, Chief Joseph, to never agree to sell the homeland.
  • St. Joseph’s Mission, Idaho (N46˚19’ W116˚43’) is located on Mission Creek Road off US 95 west of Culdesac. This was a Catholic mission to the Nez Perce, established in 1874 on the reservation.
  • Spalding, Idaho (N46˚27’ W116˚49’), is the site of the 1836 Spalding Presbyterian Mission to the Nez Perce, as well as cemeteries, a church, and general store associated with the town of Spalding. The village site at the confluence of Lapwai Creek and the Clearwater River has been occupied for as much as 10,000 years. The park visitor center is located at this site, which is on US 95 about 11 miles east of Lewiston.
  • Tolo Lake, Idaho (N45˚55’ W116˚14’) is the site of Tepahlewah, an ancient council ground. In 1877, bands forced to leave Oregon congregated here before moving onto the reservation to the north. In 1994, fossil mammoths were found in lake sediments. The site is west of Grangeville on the Camas Prairie.
  • Weis Rockshelter, Idaho (N45˚57’ W116˚22’), is the site of an 8,000-year-old prehistoric habitation in Rocky Canyon, used up until 600 years ago.
  • White Bird Battlefield, Idaho (N45˚47’ W116˚7’) is south of Grangeville on US Route 95.  In 1877, this was the first battle of the Nez Perce War, resulting in a defeat of the US Calvary and the beginning of the ultimately unsuccessful flight to Canada. Following the battle, the Nez Perce attempted to make it to the Lolo Trail over the mountains; some skirmishes were fought south of Cottonwood on US Route 95 at the Cottonwood Skirmishes (N46˚1’ W116˚20’).

Lake Roosevelt National Recreation Area, Washington, which includes a strip of reservoir lands between elevations 1290 and 1310 along the Columbia River impounded by Grand Coulee Dam, extends into the Palouse Prairie ecoregion between Grand Coulee Dam (N47˚57’ W118˚59’) and Fort Spokane (N47˚54’ W118˚18’) on the Columbia River and between Fort Spokane and Little Falls Dam (N47˚50’ W117˚55’) on the Spokane River. The lands on the north side of the Spokane River fronting the Spokane Indian Reservation are not part of the NRA; neither are the lands of the Colville Indian Reservation on the north side of the Columbia River. The portion of the NRA in the Palouse Prairie ecoregion includes Fort Spokane, Spring Canyon-Bunchgrass Prairie Nature Trail, and the Grand Coulee Dam area. Fort Spokane is a western military frontier fort operated between 1880 and 1898. At Fort Spokane is a 1.6-mile interpretive trail. Spring Canyon (N47˚56’ W118˚56’) is an ice age flood area.

Whitman Mission National Historic Site, Washington (N46˚2’ W118˚28’) was established to commemorate the 1847 killing of missionaries by the Cayuse Tribe. The mission was established in 1836 but is believed to have had little success in converting tribal members. It later became a site on the Oregon Trail. It was burned in 1848 during the ensuing war between the settlers and the tribe. The 100-acre park includes the foundations of mission buildings and Oregon Trail ruts and is seven miles west of Walla Walla. The mission is not on the main National Historic Trail route but is related to the trail because the Whitmans assisted the first emigrants and helped blaze the main trail.

Reference

Baker,  Victor R. 1978. The Spokane Flood Controversy and the Martian Outflow Channels. Science 202:1249-1256.

to be continued

Okanagan Dry Forests

Location: Canada (British Columbia) and United States (Washington)

Latitude-Longitude: 47 to 50˚N, 117 to 121˚W

Overview

The Okanagan dry forests ecosystem is east of the Cascades and north of the Palouse Prairie. Vegetation is a mosaic of pine forests, sagebrush, and grasslands. Common trees are lodgepole pine, aspen, white spruce, and Douglas-fir. The cities of Penticton and Kelowna, British Columbia, are located in the ecoregion, which extends south to the northern edge of Spokane, Washington. Much of this Kettle River Range is a remnant of the Okanogan subcontinent, which merged with North America before the Eocene epoch, 56 million years ago. At the Stonerose Interpretive Center and Eocene Fossil Site, a 48-million-year-old fossil bed is known for fossil leaves, cones, fruits, seeds, and flowers of many modern plants, including alder, sycamore, roses, maples, and cocoa. The leaves are notable or showing extensive insect damage and allow the study of fossil insects and their feeding habits (Cannon 1999). The Okanagan Valley of British Columbia is known for wineries and orchards.

The National Forest (NF) system in the Okanagan dry forests includes two areas. Colville NF, Washington, is 953,000 acres including the Kettle River range between the Kettle River on the east and the Sanpoil River to the west. The portion of the national forest in the Okanogan dry forests also includes the Scotter Creek watershed (N48˚31’ W118˚49’) to the west of the Sanpoil River, the Trout Creek watershed (N48˚46’ W118˚47’) to the west of Curlew Lake, Graphite Mountain (N48˚59’ W118˚48’) west of the Kettle River, and Vulcan Mountain (N48˚58’ W118˚39’) north of the Kettle River. Vegetation in the drier western part of the forest is ponderosa pine and Douglas fir. The forest is also home to the Selkirk Mountain caribou herd. There are 367 miles of trail, including the Kettle Crest National Recreation Trail, described separately. The Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail traverses the ecoregion from west to east, crossing the Kettle Crest and passing Green Mountain, Deer Creek Summit, Ryan Hill, Copper Butte, Jungle Hill, Sherman Pass, Bald Mountain, Thirteenmile Mountain, Cougar Mountain, Sanpoil River, and Ferry Lake. State Route 20, the Sherman Pass Scenic Byway, traverses the forest from east to west. The forest includes three miles of the Kettle River near the British Columbia border which is considered eligible for the national wild and scenic river system. The Fire Mountain proposed Research Natural Area (RNA) (N48˚30’ W118˚35’) is 1,400 acres of old growth ponderosa pine and Douglas fir between Fire and Seventeen Mile Mountain. The Hall Ponds proposed RNA (N48˚32’ W118˚33’) is 630 acres including wetlands north of Fire Mountain.

Okanogan NF, Washington, is 1.5 million acres. The portions east of the Okanogan River are in the Okanagan dry forests ecoregion. This includes forest areas in the West Fork Sanpoil River watershed (N48˚33’ W119˚9’), Fir Mountain (N48˚40’ W118˚56’), Clackamas Mountain (N48˚43’ W118˚55’), Mount Bonaparte (N48˚47’ W119˚7’), Beaver Lake (N48˚51’ W118˚58’), Marias Creek (N48˚55’ W118˚55’), Cedar Creek (N48˚59’ W118˚55’), and Haley Mountain (N48˚52’ W119˚17’). The Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail crosses the forest, including Deep Creek, Sweat Creek, Clackamas Mountain, Cougar Creek, Bonaparte Lake, Highlands Snowpark, Haley Canyon, and Whistler Canyon. In the Tonasket Ranger district east of US Route 97, Big Tree Botanical Area (N48˚52’ W119˚3’) is reached from State Route 20 via County Road 4953 and Forest Highways 32 and 33. A one-mile trail leads from the Lost Lake Campground to two 600-year-old western larch trees. Whistler Canyon (N48˚55’ W119˚24’) is a bighorn sheep viewing area three miles south of Oroville off US Route 97. Maple Mountain proposed RNA (N48˚44’ W118˚51’) is a Douglas-fir-pinegrass community with some western larch, located north of State Route 20 at Wauconda Summit.

The U.S. National Park System in the Okanagan dry forests is represented by the Lake Roosevelt National Recreation Area (NRA), Washington, which includes a strip of reservoir lands between elevations 1290 and 1310 along the Columbia River impounded by Grand Coulee Dam. The reservoir itself is a Bureau of Reclamation project. The portion in the Okanagon dry forests ecoregion is between Fort Spokane and Kettle Falls. The NRA also includes 11 miles of the Kettle River from Kettle Falls to Barstow (N48˚47’ W118˚8’). The NRA includes Fort Spokane, Kettle Falls, and St. Pauls Mission interpretive areas, all along the Columbia River accessed by State Route 25. St. Pauls Mission is an 1845 Indian mission. Fort Spokane is a western military frontier fort operated between 1880 and 1898. At Fort Spokane is a 1.6-mile interpretive trail.

The Myra Canyon Section of the Kettle Valley Railway National Historic Site of Canada, located in the Myra-Bellevue Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚47’ W119˚19’), was designated because it was an outstanding engineering achievement. During 1912-1914, the railroad was constructed through a rugged canyon using high trestles and tunnels. The original trestles burned in 2003. Today the route is part of the Trans-Canada Trail.

National trails in the Okanagan dry forests include one US national scenic trail (NST), the Trans-Canada Trail, and national recreation trails (NRTs). Pacific Northwest NST, Washington, follows the Kettle River Range through the Colville National Forest, passing Green Mountain (N48˚55’ W118˚23’), Deer Creek Summit (N48˚52’ W118˚23’), Ryan Hill (N48˚56’ W118˚27’), Copper Butte (N48˚42’ W118˚28’), Jungle Hill (N48˚38’ W118˚30’), Sherman Pass (N48˚36’ W118˚29’), Bald Mountain (N48˚34’ W118˚30’), Thirteenmile Mountain (N48˚31’ W118˚39’), Cougar Mountain (N48˚31’ W118˚41’), and Ferry Lake (N48˚31’ W118˚49’). In the Okanogan National Forest, the trail passes Deep Creek (N48˚33’ W118˚54’), Sweat Creek (N48˚41’ W118˚54’), Clackamas Mountain (N48˚43’ W118˚54’), and Cougar Creek (N48˚45’ W118˚53’) before descending to Old Toroda (N48˚47’ W118˚55’) outside of the forest north of Wauconda. It reenters the Okanagan National Forest at Bonaparte Lake (N48˚48’ W119˚’) and continues west to the Highlands Snowpark (N48˚49’ W119˚12’), then leaves the forest and traverses Eden Valley (N48˚52’ W119˚13’). The trail crosses Haley Canyon (N48˚52’ W119˚23’) and Whistler Canyon (N48˚55’ W119˚23’) in the forest before descending to Oroville (N48˚56’ W119˚26’) in the Palouse Prairie ecoregion.

Kettle Crest NRT, Colville National Forest, Washington, extends 31 miles along the ridgetop from Sherman Pass on State Route 20 (N48˚36’ W118˚29’) to Deer Summit (N48˚52’ W118˚24’) and is part of the Pacific Northwest NST.

Spokane River Centennial Trail NRT and  State Park, Washington, begins at the Idaho State Line (N47˚42’ W117˚1’) and continues 37 miles west, ending at Nine Mile Falls (N47˚47’ W117˚33’). The trail is paved for the entire length.

Trans-Canada Trail is a national trail effort extending across Canada. In the Okanagan dry forests ecoregion east of the 121st meridian, the trail includes many rail-trail segments. From west to east, the trail passes the Coquihalla Highway (N49˚48’ W120˚58’), Brookmere (N49˚49’ W120˚52’), Tulameen (N49˚33’ W120˚46’), Princeton (N49˚28’ W120˚30’), Jura Loops (N49˚31’ W120˚29’), Osprey Lake (N49˚43’ W120˚13’), Penticton (N49˚30’ W119˚36’), Chute Lake (N49˚42’ W119˚32’), Myra Trestles (N49˚47’ W119˚19’), Kettle River Provincial Park (N49˚7’ W118˚59’), Midway (N49˚1’ W118˚47’), Greenwood (N49˚6’ W118˚41’, Fisherman Tunnels (N49˚7’ W118˚28’), and Grand Forks (N49˚1’ W118˚24’).

Other federal sites

The Confederated Tribes of the Colville Indian Reservation in the Okanogan dry forests ecoregion maintain recreation areas along State Route 21 beside the Sanpoil River and in the Twin Lakes Area (N48˚17’ W118˚23’).

Dominion Radio Astrophysical Observatory, British Columbia (N49˚19’ W119˚37’), Herzberg Institute of Astrophysics, National Research Council of Canada, is on White Lake Road near Cawston. It is the largest radio astronomy observatory in Canada and houses a number of parabolic antennas. It has been used since 1960 to map the universe and is known for studies on the Andromeda Galaxy and the Milky Way. The secluded location in the Okanagan River valley provides avoidance of man-made radio signals.

Little Vulcan Mountain Area of Critical Environmental Concern, BLM, Washington (N48˚55’ W118˚43’) is north of the Kettle River west of Curlew and adjacent to the Colville National Forest.

State and local sites in the Okanagan dry forests include the notable Graystokes Provincial Park and Okanagan Mountain Provincial Park.

Allison Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚41’ W120˚36’) is north of Princeton on Route 5A. Stands of aspen are found along the lakeside recreation area.

Anarchist Protected Area, British Columbia (N49˚3’ W119˚31’) is 467 ha in two units off of Route 3 east of Osoyoos. This area contains a low elevation old growth Douglas-fir-ponderosa pine forest.

Barker Mountain Natural Area Preserve, Washington (N48˚41’ W119˚18’) is 120 acres of ponderosa pine-Douglas-fir in a mosaic with antelope bitterbush shrub-steppe, located east of Tonasket.

Bear Creek Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚56’ W119˚31’) is north of Kelowna on Westside Road on the west side of Okanagan Lake. In addition to lakeside recreation, the park offers a trail through Bear Creek Canyon. Vegetation is ponderosa pine and Douglas-fir with grassland areas and cactus.

Boothman’s Oxbow Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚1’ W118˚21’) is a 42-ha riparian black cottonwood and wetland area along the Kettle River east of Grand Forks on Route 3. The area is noted for waterfowl nesting and rare fish in the river.  The Trans-Canada Trail traverses the park.

Boundary Creek Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚3’ W118˚42’) is a two-ha camping park on Route 3 at Greenwood.

Bromley Rock Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚25’ W120˚16’) is a prominent rock bluff along the Similkameen River 21 km east of Princeton on Route 3. Vegetation is Douglas-fir forest.

Browne Lake Ecological Reserve, British Columbia (N49˚49’ W119˚12’), contains a wet meadow and Douglas-fir-spruce forests. It is located south of Route 33 and east of Kelowna.

Centennial Trail State Park, Washington is described under Spokane River Centennial Trail national recreation trail.

Conkle Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚10’ W119˚6’) is located in the Kettle River drainage west of Route 33. The lakeside recreation area is forested with western larch and lodgepole pine, along with willow and black alder.

Curlew Lake State Park, Washington (N48º43’ W118º40’) is a lakeside recreation area on Curlew Lake, located on State Route 21.

Darke Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚43’ W119˚52’), is a 1,470-ha park with old growth Douglas-fir forests, accessible from Summerland on Route 97.

Dishman Hills Natural Resources Conservation Area, Spokane County, Washington (N47˚39’ W117˚17’) features trails that wind around terrain scoured by flooding from glacial Lake Missoula.  A population of water howellia is protected.

Eneas Lakes Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚45’ W119˚56’), is a 1,000-ha wilderness park accessible by four-wheel drive vehicle from Peachland on Route 97. There are four lakes in a fir and pine forest, including Big and Little Eneas Lakes, Island Lake, and Tsuh Lake.

Gilpin Grasslands Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚1’ W118˚19’) provides bighorn sheep and elk habitat on the Kettle River between Grand Forks and Cascade on Route 3.  The Trans-Canada trail traverses the park, which has old growth cottonwood and ponderosa pine in addition to grassland habitat.

Graystokes Provincial Park, British Columbia (N50˚0’ W118˚50’), is a 12,000-ha complex of swamps; the plateau contains numerous lakes and extends between Mount Moore in the south and the Buck Hills in the north. Vegetation is subalpine fir and Engelmann spruce. The wilderness park is 45 km northeast of Kelowna.

Jewell Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚11’ W118˚36’) is a 49-ha park at the north end of a trout fishing lake, located 12 km north of Route 3 near Greenwood.

Johnstone Creek Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚3’ W119˚3’) is 38 ha west of Rock Creek on Route 3. Trails lead to a waterfall and lookout. Forests are Douglas-fir and spruce.

Kentucky-Alleyne Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚55’ W120˚34’) consists of two lakes in rolling grasslands and dry open forests east of the Cascades. It is off of Routes 5A and 97C at Aspen Grove.

Kettle River Recreation Area, British Columbia (N49˚6’ W118˚59’) is a 200-ha area on Route 33 north of Rock Creek, with ponderosa pine, lodgepole pine, and bunchgrass vegetation.

Ranald MacDonald Grave State Park, Washington (N48º57’ W118º46’) commemorates Japan’s first English teacher, who arrived in Japan in 1848 and was initially imprisoned for illegal entry. However, he was subsequently enlisted to teach English. He later settled in Washington and panned for gold along the Kettle River, where the gravesite is located. The cemetery is upstream from Curlew on the Kettle River.

Myra-Bellevue Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚47’ W119˚25’) is 7,800 ha on the south side of Kelowna, providing extensive hiking opportunities. The park includes the escarpment of Little White Mountain, Myra Canyon with 18 wooden railroad trestles and two tunnels (a Canadian National Historic Site), and the Angel Springs karst area with tufa formations. The former Kettle Valley Railroad line through the park is a section of the Trans-Canada Trail. The Okanagan Highlands Trail also runs through the park.

Highlands (High Rim) Trail, British Columbia, extends from Coldstream (N50˚13’ W119˚14’) north of Kelowna south to Chute Lake (N49˚42’ W119˚32’) south of Kelowna, passing Browne Lake Ecological Reserve and the Myra-Bellevue Provincial Park and connecting with the Trans-Canada Trail.

Okanagan Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚41’ W119˚44’) is 11 km north of Summerland on Route 97. The park provides lakeside recreation, but has a ponderosa pine-sagebrush vegetation, with wildflowers such as chocolate lily and Columbian lily.

Okanagan Mountain Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚44’ W119˚38’) is a 11,000-ha hiking park south of Kelowna on the east side of Okanagan Lake. Vegetation ranges from grasslands to spruce-fir forest, with old growth Douglas fir, ponderosa pine, and lodgepole pine. Wildlife includes mountain goats. The terrain is heavily glaciated. A network of trails traverses the area from north and south access points.

Otter Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚35’ W120˚46’) is 50 ha northwest of Princeton and offers lakeside camping and hiking.

Pennask Creek Protected Area, British Columbia (N49˚56’ W120˚7’) is 1,245 ha along a creek surrounded by lodgepole pine forest. Each June, up to 25,000 rainbow trout move into the creek from Pennask Lake to spawn.  Up to two million eggs are collected and sent to the hatchery for use in the Province’s fish stocking program. The area is along Route 97C, the Coquihalla Connector, near the Pennask Summit.

Pennask Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia (N50˚0’ W120˚6’) is a high elevation lake (1,450 m elevation) surrounded by spruce forest.  The park is at the southeast corner of the lake. The park is off of Route 97C, the Coquihalla Connector, near the Pennask Summit.

Riverside State Park, Washington is 14,000 acres along the Spokane River and Little Spokane River downstream from Spokane. The Nine Mile Reservoir is included in the state park. There are 55 miles of trails. The lower end of the Centennial Trail State Park NRT (see) crosses the property.  The Spokane House historic site (N47º47’ W117º32’) is an early 19th century fur trading post and the oldest log structure in Spokane.  There are also pictographs.  Other major park sites are at Bowl and Pitcher (N47º42’ W117º30’) Nine Mile Recreation Area, and Griffith Spring (N47º46’ W117º28’).

Scotch Creek Wildlife Area, Washington includes five units in the Okanogan dry forest and Palouse grasslands. Chesaw Unit (N48˚58’ W119˚4’) is 4,000 acres 20 miles east of Oroville and contains shrub-steppe and dry forest habitat.

Sherman Creek Wildlife Area, Washington (N48º37’ W118º10’) is on State Route 20 just west of Kettle Falls in the Kettle River Range. The forests of ponderosa pine and Douglas fir are interspersed with meadows of ceanothus.

Skaha Bluffs Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚26’ W119˚33’) is 489 ha adjacent to Penticton. It is a grassland area grading into ponderosa pine-Douglas fir forest. It is known as a premier rock climbing area, with 80-m cliffs.

Stemwinder Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚22’ W120˚8’) is a riverside recreation area along the Similkameen River 35 km east of Princeton on Route 3. Vegetation is Douglas-fir forest.

Trepanier Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚55’ W119˚51’) is a 2,880-ha wilderness park north of Route 97C, the Coquihalla Connector, west of Kelowna. An 11-km trail leads to Lacoma Lake.

Trout Creek Ecological Reserve, British Columbia (N49˚33’ W119˚42’) is on the southern edge of Summerland and is a 75-ha track with ponderosa-pine and Douglas-fir vegetation in a semiarid setting.

Vaseux Protected Area, British Columbia (N49˚16’ W119˚27’) is a 2,000-ha grassland area that grades to ponderosa pine-Douglas fir at higher elevations. Locsated east of Route 97 in the Okanagan River valley, it is used by California bighorn sheep. Within the area, McIntyre Canyon and Vaseux Creek provide viewing opportunities.

White Lake Grasslands Protected Area, British Columbia (N49˚17’ W119˚34’) is in four tracts west of Route 97 and the Okanagan River between Okanagan Falls and Oliver. Rare grassland wildlife is protected in the 3,740-ha area.

Big White Mountain Ecological Reserve, British Columbia (N49˚45’ W118˚56’) is a 950-ha area in the Okanagan highlands supporting alpine tundra, Engelmann spruce, and subalpine fir, located 42 km east of Kelowna.

Private Sites in the Okanagan Dry Forests

Stonerose Interpretive Center and Eocene Fossil Site (N48˚39’ W118˚44’) is on Knob Hill Road in Republic, Washington. The 48-million-year-old fossil bed is known for fossil leaves, cones, fruits, seeds, and flowers of many modern plants, including alder, sycamore, roses, maples, cocoa, and conifers such as the dawn redwood. The leaves are notable for showing extensive insect damage and allow the study of fossil insects and their feeding habits. Numerous types of fossil insects are found, including tiger moths, aphids, flies, wasps, and beetles.

References:

Burke Museum of Natural History and Culture. Stonerose Fossils. Accessed March 22, 2015, at http://www.burkemuseum.org/paleontology/stonerose/

Cannon, William. 1999. Stories in Stone Read from Ancient Leaves. Smithsonian, June 1999. Accessed March 22, 2015, at http://www.smithsonianmag.com/science-nature/stories-in-stone-read-from-ancient-leaves-167142261/?page=1

Dominion Radio Astrophysical Observatory. Accessed March 22, 2015, at http://astro-canada.ca/_en/a2107.php and http://www.ieee.ca/millennium/drao/DRAO_more.html

 

 

North Central Rockies forests Part G Local State and Provincial Sites

Part G State and local sites in the North Central Rockies forests:

A wide range of parks and public lands are found in the North Central Rockies forests. The following lists are not all inclusive and many state and provincial forests and trust lands are not included. The public lands listed here were ones that were located based on publicly available information. One state park, Coeur d’Alene Old Mission, was previously described under National Historic Landmarks. Creston Valley Wildlife Management Area was described under Ramsar sites as a wetland of international importance.

Continental Divide Ranges

The easternmost of the parallel ranges making up the North Central Rockies forests includes the Akamina-Kishena Provincial Park, Frank Slide Interpretive Center, and Montana wildlife areas along the Rocky Mountain front.

Akamina-Kishinena Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚1’ W114˚9’) is in the southeastern corner of British Columbia, adjoining Glacier National Park and Waterton Lakes National Park.  The 10,920-ha wilderness park is accessed via Waterton Lakes NP in Alberta and contains 1.3-billion-year old limestone mountains and waterfalls.

Allison/Chinook Public Land Use Zone, Alberta (N49-40 W114-36) is north of Crowsnest Pass municipality.

Beauvais Lake Provincial Park, Alberta (N49˚25’ W114˚7’) is on the Rocky Mountain front south of Route 507 between Beaver Mines and Pincher Creek.  A network of trails includes a hike to Mount Albert, 1620 m elevation.

Beaver Mines Lake Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚22’ W114˚18’) is a camping and hiking area at the end of Range Road 32a.

Black Creek Heritage Rangeland, Alberta (N49˚55’ W114˚11’) is north of the Oldman River and west of Route 22, including Whaleback Ridge.

Blackleaf Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N48˚0’ W112˚40’) is 10,000 acres of winter range for elk and mule deer and summary habitat for black and grizzly bear.  It is located on the Rocky Mountain front west of Bynum.

Bob Creek Wildland Provincial Park, Alberta (N49˚58’ W114˚17’) is a hiking and hunting area in the Livingstone Range north of the Oldman River and accessible from Township Road 104a on the north side of the Oldman River west of Route 22. It is an important elk range and protects the west side of Whaleback Ridge.

Canyon Creek Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N46˚56’ W112˚20’) is north of Helena on Route 279 adjoining the Helena National Forest in the Robert E. Lee Range.

Castle Special Management Area Forest Land Use Zone, Alberta, includes the Rocky Mountain area between Waterton Lakes NP and the municipality of Crowsnest Pass.  There are designated OHV and hiking trails.  Beaver Mines Lake, Castle Falls, Castle River Bridge, West Castle Wetlands, Lynx Creek, and Syncline provincial recreation areas are within this area. Castle Falls Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚27’ W114˚19’) is a camping and hiking area on Range Road 32a west of Beaver Mines. Castle River Bridge Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚24’ W114˚20’) is a camping and hiking area on Route 774 south of Beaver Mines. West Castle Wetlands Ecological Reserve, Alberta (N49˚20’ W114˚25’) is a hiking area adjacent to Route 774 near the Castle Mountain Ski Resort. The area is noted for spring wildflowers. Lynx Creek Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚7’ W114˚25’) is on Township Road 61a south of Bellevue and provides hiking and camping. Syncline Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚23’ W114˚21’) is a hiking area located on the Castle River south of Beaver Mines on Route 774.

Chinook Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚40’ W114˚36’), is a hiking area north of Route 3 and west of Blairmore off of Range Road 52a.

Crowsnest Rest Stop and Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚39’ W114˚42’) is on Route 3 just north of the Alberta border. It was a prehistoric chert mining site and campsites date to 6,600 years BP. The park is also a winter range for elk and deer.

Dutch Creek Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚54’ W114˚24’) is a hiking and camping area on Route 940 on the Oldman River.

Ear Mountain Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N47˚50’ W112˚40’) is 3,047 acres located west of Choteau on the Rocky Mountain front, adjoining the Lewis and Clark NF. It is managed for mule deer, bighorn sheep, and grizzly.

Elkhorn State Park, Montana (N46˚16’ W111˚56’), is east of Boulder. It is an historic silver mining town. The state park protects two structures in the privately owned town.

Frank Slide Interpretive Center Provincial Historical Park, Alberta (N49˚36’ W114˚24’), is in Crowsnest Pass municipality near Route 3. In 1903, part of Turtle Mountain collapsed and buried 90 residents of a coal mining town, along with industrial facilities, ranches, and a railroad track.  It was Canada’s worst rock slide disaster. It is believed that karst topography with limestone caves, as well as past glaciation which left a hanging valley, contributed to the disaster. A coal mine in the area had exhibited shifting rocks and cracked timber structures, providing an early warning sign that was not recognized. The interpretive center has trails and guided tours. Nearby was the Hillcrest Mine, where 189 miners were killed in a gas explosion in 1914; they are buried in the Hillcrest Cemetery in a mass grave. Also near the site is an eagle watch site of the Rocky Mountain Eagle Research Foundation at the south end of the Livingstone Range.

Island Lake Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚38’ W114˚40’), is a campground on Route 3 near Crowsnest Pass.

Leitch Collieries Provincial Historic Site, Alberta (N49˚33’ W114˚19’) is on Route 3 in Crowsnest Pass municipality and was the most sophisticated coal mine in the early 20th century. Operating from 1907 to 1915, the mine featured 101 coke ovens, a washing area, and a huge tipple. Nearby privately operated Bellevue Underground Mine offers tours of a coal mine that operated until 1961.

Lundbreck Falls Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚35’ W114˚13’) is on the Crowsnest River adjacent to Route 3.  The river drops 12 m over a waterfall into a canyon.

Oldman River North Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚57’ W114˚26’) is a camping and hiking area west of Route 940.

Racehorse Provincial Recreation Area, Alberta (N49˚50 W114˚26’) is a hiking area on Route 940 at Racehorse Creek, north of Route 3 and Blairmore.

Spotted Dog Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N46˚30’ W112˚40’) is 38,000 acres northeast of Deer Lodge on Rocky Ridge between I-90 and US 12.

Sun River Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N47˚35’ W112˚38’) is 19,771 acres west of Augusta and south of the Sun River.  It includes the Sawtooth Ridge and grasslands to the east. It is known for bighorn sheep, elk, and pronghorn.

McDonald-Whitefish and Swan-Mission Ranges

The first line of parallel ranges west of the Continental Divide include public lands in the Flathead, Swan, and Clearwater valleys. Notable sites are the Top O’ the World Provincial Park, the Fort Steele Heritage Town, and the Owen Sowerine Natural Area.

Coal Creek State Forest, Montana (N48˚41’ W114˚18’), is on the Flathead River on the west side of Glacier NP, and is 15,000 acres in extent in the Whitefish Range.

Elk Valley Provincial Park and Olson Rest Area, British Columbia (N49˚39’ W114˚55’), is a picnic area on Route 3 which provides access to riparian habitat on the Elk River, a tributary to Lake Koocanusa.

Mount Fernie Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚29’ W115˚6’) is three km south of Fernie on Route 3.  It is used as a mountain biking area and protects old growth cottonwood and a riparian ecosystem on the Elk River.

Mount Jumbo Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N46˚55’ W113˚56’) is 120 acres just north of Missoula in the Rattlesnake NRA area.

Kikomun Creek Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚14’ W115˚15’) is 680 ha on Lake Koocanusa off of Route 93. It is a hiking and camping park on the reservoir.

Kootenai/Woods Ranch Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N48˚59’ W115˚2’) is 1,417 acres east of U.S. Route 93 on the Canadian border, managed for elk, deer, and sheep winter range.

Ray Kuhns Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N48˚20’ W114˚24’) is 1,530 acres on the Stillwater River north of Kalispell. There is a horse trail.

Marshall Creek Wildlife Management Area (N47˚16’ W113˚38’) is 24,170 acres in the Mission Range northwest of Seeley Lake, managed for fish and game habitat.

Les Mason State Park, Montana (N48˚28’ W114˚22’), is a lakeside recreation area on Whitefish Lake.

Morrissey Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚23’ W115˚1’), protects a black cottonwood ecosystem along the Elk River between Fernie and Elko on Route 3.

Norbury Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚32’ W115˚29’) provides walking trails and camping on two lakes in a valley with a view of the Steeples in the Hughes Range of the Rocky Mountains.

Placid Lake State Park, Montana (N47˚7’ W113˚30’) is a lake recreation site located west of State Route 83 near Seeley Lake adjacent to the Lolo NF.

Premier Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚55’ W115˚39’) is off of Route 93-95 at Skookumchuck. This 662-ha park provides four fishing lakes (southern end of Premier Lake, Rockbluff Lake, Canuck Lake, and Yankee Lake) and a hiking trail system in an open grassland-forest ecosystem on the west side of the Rocky Mountains.

Owen Sowerine Natural Area, state school trust lands, Montana (N48˚11’ W114˚17’), occupies public land survey section 16 at the confluence of the Stillwater and Flathead Rivers in Kalispell. It is an IBA for red-naped sapsucker, pileated woodpecker, and willow flycatcher.

Fort Steele Heritage Town, British Columbia (N49˚38’ W115˚37’) is a provincially-owned living history exhibit operated by the Friends of Fort Steele Society. It is a former gold rush town 16 km northeast of Cranbrook on Routes 93-95.

Swan State Forest, Montana (N47˚45’ W113˚50’), is on State Route 83 south of Swan Lake, and is 40,000 acres in extent.

Top of the World Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚51’ W115˚25’) includes 2,900-m peaks of the Kootenay Range and covers 8,790 ha. The wilderness area is at the head of the Lussier River, 42 km southeast of Canal Flats on Route 93-95 and is noted for old growth balsam and Douglas fir, some lodgepole pine, and alpine wildflowers.

Wardner Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚25’ W115˚25’) is on the upper end of Lake Koocanusa and provides reservoir recreation.

Wasa Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚47’ W115˚44’) is a camping, swimming, and bicycling area on Routes 93-95 north of Cranbrook. The park protects grasslands of the East Kootenay Trench.

Wayfarers State Park, Montana (N48˚3’ W114˚5’) is on the northeast side of Flathead Lake at the confluence of the Swan River. Trails overlook the lake. It is on State Route 35 south of Bigfork.

Whitefish Lake State Park, Montana (N48˚26’ W114˚22’), is a lake recreation park on the west side of Whitefish Lake on State Park Road.

Yellow Bay State Park, Montana (N47˚53’ W114˚2’), is a lakeside recreation area on the east side of Flathead Lake on State Route 35.

Salish Range

West Kootenai Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N48˚59’ W115˚14’) is 960 acres on the west side of Lake Koocanusa at the Canadian border and is managed as winter range.

Logan State Park, Montana (N48˚2’ W115˚4’), is a lake recreation area on Middle Thompson Lake on US Route 2 near Happy’s Inn.

Lone Pine State Park, Montana (N48˚10’ W114˚20’), is a hiking area on the south side of Kalispell, with cliffs featuring views of the Flathead Valley and Glacier National Park.

Lake Mary Ronan State Park, Montana (N47˚56’ W114˚23’) is a lakeside recreation area with trails to wildflowers in the boreal forest, seven miles north of Dayton.

Stillwater State Forest, Montana (N48˚30’ W114˚30’) is 93,000 acres along US 93 south of Olney.

West Shore State Park, Montana (N47˚56’ W114˚11’), features glacially carved rock outcrops providing views of Flathead Lake, Mission Mountains,and Swan Mountains. It is a lakeside recreation area.

Wild Horse Island State Park, Montana (N47˚51’ W114˚13’), is a 2,000-acre island in Flathead Lake accessible from Big Arm State Park. It includes trails through old growth ponderosa pine and grassland.

 Purcell-Cabinet and Bitteroot-Clearwater Ranges

Coeur d’Alene’s Old Mission State Park is described under NHLs. Notable mountain parks include the Kianuku Provincial Park, Kimberley Nature Park, Purcell Wilderness Conservancy, St. Marys Alpine Provincial Park, Mary McCroskey State Park, Snow Peak Cooperative Management Area, and St. Maries Wildlife Management Area. Long distance bicycle trails include the Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes and Coeur d’Alene Parkway state parks. The Pend Oreille Wildlife Management Area provides waterfowl habitat along the reservoir system.

Bull River Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N48˚12’ W115˚51’) protects wetlands at the upper end of the Bull River on State Route 56 in the Cabinet Mountains.

Coeur d’Alene Parkway State Park, Idaho is a six-mile bicycle trail along the north shore of Coeur d’Alene Lake east of the city of Coeur d’Alene. The east end is Higgins Point (N47˚38’ W116˚41’) and the west end is near Exit 15 on I-90 (N47˚40’ W116˚45’). The trail continues as the North Idaho Centennial Trail along the Spokane River west to the state line, and the trail continues 37 miles west into Washington as the Spokane River Centennial National Recreation Trail, ending at Nine Mile Falls (N47˚46’ W117˚34’).

Coeur d’Alene River Wildlife Management Area, Idaho, is an IBA that contains undisturbed wetlands that support waterfowl and shorebirds. A recreational bike path (Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes State Park) traverses the 5,000-acre area, which extends from Harrison (N47˚27’ W116˚47’) upstream 25 miles to Rose Lake (N47˚35’ W116˚28’).  Another area of the WMA is along the Coeur d’Alene Lake, St. Joe River embayment at Round Lake (N47˚22’ W116˚43’).

Dworshak State Park, Idaho, is in three units on the western shore of Dworshak Reservoir.  A lodge and marina are at Big Eddy (N46˚32’ W116˚18’), a campground is at Freeman Creek (N46˚35’ W116˚17’) and a group camp is at Three Meadows (N46˚36’ W116˚18’).

Farragut State Park, Idaho (N47˚57’ W116˚36’) is 4,000 acres at the south end of Lake Pend Oreille on the site of the former Farragut Naval Training Station, where 293,000 sailors trained in World War II. The Museum of the Brig interprets the facility. About 40 miles of trails wind through the former military facility.

Farragut Wildlife Management Area, Idaho (N47˚58’ W116˚37’) is adjacent to Farragut State Park on the south end of Lake Pend Oreille and contains a network of hiking trails.

Fish Creek State Park, Montana (N46˚57’ W114˚42’), includes hiking to the lookout atop Williams Peak, located south of I-90, exit 66, west of Missoula.

Fish Creek Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N46˚54’ W114˚41’), is 34,573 acres located north and south of I-90 Exit 66. It is former Plum Creek Timber Company land purchased in 2008 by the Nature Conservancy. About 350 elk winter in the area.

Gilnockie Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚5’ W115˚39’) is 2,800 ha located south of Moyie Lake on Route 3-95 via logging roads.  It includes a small isolated valley draining south into the Yaak River in Kootenai NF and protects old growth fir and larch.

Gilnockie Creek Ecological Reserve, British Columbia (N49˚1’ W115˚39’) is an area at the confluence of Gilnockie Creek and Yahk River used for silvicultural and genetic research on western larch.

Heyburn State Park, Idaho (47˚21’ W116˚46’), is 8,000 acres of ponderosa pine forest at the south end of Coeur d’Alene Lake. The St. Joe River channel is separated from the lake by berms, which create the unusual illusion of a river cutting through a lake. The park was created from the Coeur d’Alene Indian Reservation in 1908 by an act of Congress. There are eight miles of trails. The park is an IBA for its great blue heron rookery.

Horse Barn Valley Interpretive Forest, British Columbia (N49˚39’W116˚2’) is a 200-ha old growth cedar forest at Kimberley.

Jimsmith Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚29’ W115˚50’) is west of Cranbrook and provides camping in a Douglas fir and larch forest..

Kianuko Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚25’ W116˚25’) provides caribou, moose, and grizzly habitat in an old growth forest at the Goat River headwaters. It is 11,600 ha in size.

Kimberley Nature Park, city of Kimberley, British Columbia (N49˚39’ W116˚0’), is an 800-ha hiking area with 50 km of trails. It is managed by the Kimberley Nature Park Society on Crown land.

Marysville Falls, Kimberley, British Columbia (N49˚38’ W115˚58’), is a 30-m waterfall accessed by a short trail off of Route 95A.

Kootenai Falls Wildlife Management Area (48˚27’ W115˚42’) is 172 acres with three miles of Kootenai River frontage, on the north side of the river across from US Route 2.

Kootenay Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia, includes five sites on the shoreline of Kootenay Lake used for camping and lakeside recreation. The Davis Creek (N50˚7’ W116˚55’) and Lost Ledge (N50˚6’ W116˚56’) sites are north of Kaslo on Route 31.  Coffee Creek (N49˚42’ W116˚54’) is on Route 31 north of Balfour.  Campbell Bay (N49˚57’ W116˚52’) is on the eastern side of the lake accessible by water only, while Midge Creek (N49˚23’ W116˚50’) is on the western side of the lake accessible by water only.

Lockhart Beach Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚30’ W116˚47’) protects temperate rainforest habitat on the east shore of Kootenay Lake on Route 3A north of Creston.

Lockhart Creek Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚30’ W116˚42’) is a 3,700-ha old growth cedar-hemlock forest east of Kootenay Lake.

Mary McCroskey State Park, Idaho (N47˚4’ W116˚56’) is on Mission Mountain north of Moscow on US Route 95. The rugged and isolated mountain rises above the Palouse prairie.  The 5,300-acre park has an 18-mile Skyline Drive and 32 miles of trails.

Moyie Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚22’ W115˚50’) is a camping area on a lake with wetlands and old growth cottonwood forests. It is located on Routes 3-95 about 20 km south of Cranbrook.

North Idaho College (N47˚41’ W116˚48’) is at the outlet of Lake Coeur d’Alene on the Spokane River in Coeur d’Alene. The lakeshore is an IBA for gulls and waterfowl.

Painted Rocks State Park, Montana (N45˚41’ W114˚18’) is a reservoir recreation area on Painted Rocks Lake in the upper Bitterroot River valley. The lake is surrounded by granite and rhyolite cliffs with green, yellow, and orange lichens, thus the name. It is south of Darby off State Route 473.

Pend Oreille Wildlife Management Area, Idaho, is a multi-unit public land resource, mostly waterfowl areas, on Lake Pend Oreille and surrounding areas.  Clark Fork Delta (N48˚9’ W116˚14’) consists of islands with old growth cottonwood and grand fir at the Clark Fork entrance to Lake Pend Oreille.  It is an IBA for ducks, common loon, great blue heron, and bald eagle. Other units with the same habitat are Clark Fork Drift Yard and Carter Island, both adjacent to State Route 200 at the Clark Fork entrance to the lake. Denton Slough (N48˚11’ W116˚5’) is an IBA with a colony of western grebe and other waterfowl, accessible from State Route 200 east of Sandpoint. Derr Creek (N48˚7’ W116˚10’) is on the Clark Fork River upstream from the lake.  In the middle of the lower embayment of the lake is Pearl Island (N48˚13’ W116˚20’).

The Pack River Delta (N48˚19’ W116˚23’) is at the north end of the lake and is an IBA for waterfowl and common loon. The site includes Fisherman Island and Oden Bay of Lake Pend Oreille, which are also IBAs. Along the Pack River upstream of the reservoir are the Trout Creek, Rapid Lightning Creek (N48˚22’ W116˚24’), Gold Creek, and Lower Pack River (N48˚22’ W116˚26’) units.

Along US Route 2 and the riverine portion of the reservoir (Pend Oreille River) are Hornby Creek (N48˚15’ W116˚38’), Carr Creek (N48˚15’ W116˚39’), Mallard Bay (N48˚13’ W116˚41’), Musket Lake (N48˚15’ W116˚40’), Morton Slough (N˚48˚12’ W116˚42’), Hoodoo Creek (N48˚9’ W116˚45’), Riley Creek (N48˚10’ W116˚47’), Carey Creek (N48˚9’ W116˚51’), Priest River (N48˚10’ W116˚52’), Strong Island and North Shore Strip (N48˚11’ W116˚58’), and Albeni Cove (N48˚10’ W117˚0’). Morton Slough is an IBA for diving ducks and other waterfowl.

Off-reservoir units along US Route 95 include Westmond Lake (N48˚10’ W116˚32’), Cocolalla Lake (N48˚6’ W116˚37’), and Tall Pines (N47˚48’ W116˚40’) east of Hayden Lake.  The Hauser unit (N47˚46’ W117˚1’) is off of State Route 53 east of Spokane, Washington. Westmond Lake is an IBA for black tern and waterfowl.

Purcell Wilderness Conservancy Provincial Park and Protected Area, British Columbia (N50˚0’ W116˚30’) is a 202,700-ha wilderness area extending from the shoreline of Kootenay Lake to the Purcell Mountain range. Dewar Creek Hot Springs (N49˚57’ W116˚31’) is reached by following the St. Marys River Road to its end, then hiking along Dewar Creek. Above the hot springs are unique plant communities.

Roundhorn Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N47˚32’ W115˚3’) is 27 acres of cliffs providing bighorn sheep habitat, visible from State Route 200 west of Plains and east of Thompson Falls.

Ryan Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚8’ W116˚2’) is a picnic area on Route 3-95 on the Moyie River south of Cranbrook.

St. Maries Wildlife Management Area, Idaho, includes Miners and Flat Creeks (N47˚13’ W116˚32’), an area of old growth western hemlock providing habitat for northern goshawk and pileated woodpecker and designated an IBA.

St. Mary’s Alpine Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚50’ W116˚20’) is a 9,000-ha wilderness park with 32 lakes, granite cliffs, tundra, and snowfields, mostly above 7,000 feet in elevation. There are numerous waterfalls, some up to 150 m in height.  Access is from Kimberley over forest roads which end at trailheads outside of the park.

Mount Silcox Wildlife Management Area, Montana (N47˚36’ W115˚17’) is 1,552 acres east of Thompson Falls on State Route 200, managed for bighorn sheep winter range.

Snow Peak Cooperative Wildlife Management Area (N47˚3’ W115˚33’), on Forest Highway 201 east of Fishhook is an area of checkerboard ownership between the state and federal governments, with 12,000 acres of state land and 20,000 acres of national forest ownership.  The area is managed for mountain goat and other high elevation animal species; there are 40 miles of trail.

Thompson Falls State Park, Montana (N47˚37’ W115˚23’) is a riverside recreation area just north of Thompson Falls on the Clark Fork River off Blue Slide Road (Route 472).

Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes State Park, Idaho, extends from Plummer (N47˚20’ W116˚53’) east 72 miles to Mullan (N47˚28’ W115˚48’). It is a paved bicycle trail and passes Heyburn State Park, Coeur d’Alene Lake, Coeur d’Alene Wildlife Management Area, and Coeur d’Alene Old Mission State Park National Historic Landmark.

Yahk Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚5’ W116˚6’) is a campground on the Moyie River on Route 3-95 in the town of Yahk about 70 km south of Cranbrook.

Selkirk Range

Notable mountain sites include the Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park, Mount Spokane State Park, and Valhalla Provincial Park.

Beaver Creek Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚4’ W117˚37’) is located on the Columbia River downstream from Trail on Route 22A. The 81-ha camping and hiking park includes a ponderosa pine forest.

Champion Lakes Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚11’ 117˚37’) includes the three Champion Lakes and Kearns Lake, providing old growth forest, fishing, and hiking trails between the lakes. It is located off of Route 3 east of Castlegar.

Le Clerc Wildlife Area, Washington (N48º34’ W117º17’) is 600 acres in four sections on the Pend Oreille River and the West Branch Le Clerc Creek 25 miles downstream from Newport. The area has an elk feeding station and is managed for grizzly bear recovery.

Cody Caves Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚44’ W116˚54’) is a small park protecting a one-km-long limestone cave on the west side of Kootenay Lake west of Ainsworth Hot Springs. Guided tours are offered.

Crawford/Gardner Cave State Park, Washington (N49˚0’ W117˚22’) is just south of the British Columbia border and west of the Pend Oreille River at the Boundary Dam crossing, surrounded by the Colville National Forest. The park offers tours of a 1,000-foot-long limestone cavern.

Drewry Point Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚25’ W116˚49’) is on the west shore of Kootenay Lake and accessible only by boat, providing a lakeside recreation area.

Erie Creek Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚11’ W117˚18’) is a mature cedar-hemlock forest located between Route 3 and Erie Creek west of Salmo.

Evans Lake Ecological Reserve, British Columbia (N49˚51’ W117˚42’) is at the head of Evans Lake within the large Valhalla Provincial Park.  The area protects a yellow cedar community that is more typical of alpine coastal areas.

Grohman Narrows Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚30’ W117˚23’) is located five km west of Nelson on Routes 3A-6 on the Kootenay River.  The small 10-ha park has old growth black cottonwood and rare pond and wetland species.

Kokanee Creek Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚36’ W117˚8’) is 260 ha on Route 3A north of Nelson. Located on the West Arm of Kootenay Lake, the shoreline includes sandy beaches. There is a canyon with old growth western cedar and grand fir.

Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚45’ W117˚8’, includes the Kokanee Glacier and nearby Woodbury Glacier just to the north. The 32,000-ha wilderness park includes 30 lakes, cliffs, rock slides, and 85 km of trails. Trailheads and access are at Woodbury Creek, Gibson Lake, and Enterprise Creek.

McArthur Lake Wildlife Management Area, Idaho (N48˚31’ W116˚27’), is north of Sandpoint on US Route 95. The 1,200-acre area is an IBA for ducks, waterfowl, and shorebirds including Canada goose and coots.

Midge Creek Wildlife Management Area, British Columbia (N49˚27’ W116˚53’), is 15,000 ha and protects a migration corridor west of Kootenay Lake for grizzly bear, birds, bats, and caribou.

Pilot Bay Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚38’ W116˚52’) is a lakeside recreation area on Kootenay Lake just south of the Kootenay Bay ferry terminal (Route 3A).  The park has a hiking trail network and a 1904 lighthouse. The karst topography supports rare plant communities.

Priest Lake State Park, Idaho is in three units on the eastern shore of Priest Lake, a 19-mile-long, 300-foot-deep lake. The Dickensheet Unit (N48˚27’ W116˚54’) is at the lake outlet along the Priest River and offers canoeing. The Indian Creek unit (N48˚37’ W116˚50’) is on East Shore Road 17 miles off of State Route 57 and is a camping-hiking area with a visitor center. The Lionhead Unit (N48˚44’ W116˚49’) is at the north end of Priest Lake and offers hiking and camping.

Round Lake State Park, Idaho (N48˚10’ W116˚38’) is 140 acres west of US Route 95 between Coeur d’Alene and Sandpoint.  Trails wind around a 50-acre lake.

Rustler’s Gulch Unit of Sherman Creek Wildlife Area, Washington (N48º5’ W117º25’) is on the West Branch Little Spokane River featuring forests and wetlands.

Mount Spokane State Park, Washington (N47º55’ W117º7’), is 13,000 acres of old growth forest in the Selkirk Mountains, with a winter sports area, 100 miles of hiking trails, 100 miles of horse trails,a nd 90 miles of bicycle trails. The park is at the end of State Route 206 off of US Route 2 northeast of Spokane.

Stagleap Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚7’ W117˚0’) is the highest all-weather paved road in Canada. The site on Route 3 about 30 km west of Creston protects habitat for the mountain caribou.

Valhalla Provincial Park, British Columbia, includes 50,000 ha in the Valhalla Range of the Selkirk Mountains, to the west of Route 6. Evans Lake (N49˚51’ W117˚39’) and Beatrice Lake (N49˚52’ W117˚36’) are unusually large high elevation lakes.  New Denver Glacier (N49˚57’ W117˚30’), Devils Couch, and other craggy spires are in the park, which also includes the shoreline of Slocan Lake on its eastern boundary. Forests are western red cedar and western hemlock with alpine areas.

West Arm Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚33’ W117˚7’) is south of the West Arm of Kootenay Lake and accessible by boat.  The undeveloped park includes 25,300 ha.

Monashee Range

Notable sites include Gladstone Provincial Park and Granby Provincial Park.            

Christina Lake Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚2’ W118˚13’) is on Route 3 and provides lakeside recreation opportunities just north of the Washington-British Columbia border.

Gladstone Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚13’ W118˚13’) includes 39,000 ha, including old growth cedar-hemlock forests, pictographs, and Christina Lake, a trout spawning area.

Granby Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚40’ W118˚30’),  protects the upper watershed of the Granby River and is managed for grizzly habitat and old growth cedar hemlock.

Nancy Greene Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚15’ W117˚55’) includes a subalpine lake with a 5-km trail at the junction of Routes 3 and 3B west of Castlegar.

King George Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚0’ W117˚50’), is 160 ha on Route 22 at the border with Washington state.  It is noted for old growth cottonwood.

Syringa Provincial Park, British Columbia (N49˚22’ W117˚54’) is 4,420 ha on Lower Arrow Lake, a Columbia River reservoir, upstream from Castlegar. The park has Douglas-fir, ponderosa pine, and bunchgrass vegetation and hiking trails.

Private sites in the North Central Rockies forests:

Ainsworth Hot Springs, British Columbia (N49˚44’ W116˚55’) is on Route 31 on Kootenay Lake. The 108˚F water drips from a horseshoe-shaped cave.

Ball Creek Ranch Preserve, the Nature Conservancy, Idaho (N48˚48′ W116˚25′), is located north of Kootenai. The 2,600 acres protects waterfowl habitat on the Kootenai River.

Calispell Lake, Washington (N48˚16’ W117˚20’) is a waterfowl area on a tributary to the Pend Oreille River northwest of Newport.  It is managed by a private waterfowl club and is an IBA.

Dancing Prairie Preserve, the Nature Conservancy, Montana (N48˚56’ W115˚5’) is north of Eureka and protects the rare Spalding’s catchfly in a grassland valley east of Lake Koocanusa.  The preserve has drumlins and kettles from glacial activity.

Island Lake Lodge, British Columbia (N49˚30’ W115˚10’) includes a forest with 800-year old trees in Cedar Valley at Fernie.

Lolo Hot Springs, Montana (N46˚44’ W114˚32’) is located 35 miles west of Missoula on U.S. Route 12.

Oviatt Creek Fossil Beds, Idaho (N46˚45’ W116˚17’), are former St. Joe National Forest lands southwest of Elk River. These 15-million-year-old lake bed sediments have fossils of bald cypress, sycamore, redwood, avocado, and red oak among other plants (Solberg 1997).

Skookumchuck Prairie, British Columbia (N49˚49’ W115˚45’) is on Routes 93-95 in the Rocky Mountain trench at Skookumchuck. The grasslands here support breeding long-billed curlews and make the site an Important Bird Area.

Swan River Oxbow Preserve, The Nature Conservancy, Montana (N47˚53’ W113˚51’), is a marshy area which protects a threatened Howellia plant, adjacent to the Swan River NWR.

Reference

Solberg, Dustin. 1997.  15 Million Years of History Near Elk River.  Moscow Pullman Daily News, Friday, September 26, 1997. http://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=2026&dat=19970926&id=4r4jAAAAIBAJ&sjid=yNAFAAAAIBAJ&pg=4555,2734063

 

 

Wild Rivers, Wilderness Areas and Refuges in the North Central Rockies Forests

North Central Rockies Forests, Part F—Wild and Scenic Rivers, Wilderness Areas, and Refuges

Wild and Scenic River System in North Central Rockies Forests (NA 518)

There are three units of the national wild and scenic river system in the North Central Rockies forest ecoregion, including six segments of rivers.

The wild and scenic river designation for the Middle Fork Clearwater River, Idaho, includes two tributaries of the Clearwater, the Selway and Lochsa.  The Selway River, Nez Perce National Forest (NF) and Bitterroot NF, Idaho, is a wild and scenic river from its origin (N45˚30’ W114˚45’) almost 200 miles downstream to Lowell (N46˚9’ W115˚36’) on US Route 12. The Lochsa River, Clearwater National Forest, Idaho, is a designated recreational from its confluence with the Selway (N46˚9’ W115˚36’) at Lowell upstream to Powell Ranger Station (N46˚31’ W114˚42’). The upper Lochsa River, Idaho is an IBA for breeding harlequin ducks. The Middle Fork Clearwater is a designated recreational river from Lowell (N46˚9’ W115˚36’) downstream to Kooskia (N46˚8’ W115˚58’).

Flathead River, Montana, designation includes portions of the Middle Fork, North Fork, and South Fork of the Flathead River, within the boundaries of Flathead NF and Glacier NP. The North Fork designation extends from the Canadian border (N49˚0’ W114˚29’) to the confluence with the Middle Fork (N48˚28’ W114˚4’). The Middle Fork designation extends from its origin at Gooseberry Park (N48˚0’ W113˚4’) in the Bob Marshall Wilderness to the confluence with the South Fork at the city of Hungry Horse (N48˚23’ W114˚5’). The South Fork designation extends from its origin at Youngs Creek Ford in the Bob Marshall Wilderness (N47˚27’ W113˚11’) north to Hungry Horse Reservoir (N48˚0’ W113˚32’). Along Forest Road  2826, a trail leads to Meadow Creek Gorge (N47˚0’ W113˚25’), a 60-foot-wide, 100-foot-deep narrows.

St. Joe River, St. Joe National Forest, Idaho, includes a 42-mile recreational section from the junction with the North Fork at Avery (N47˚15’ W115˚48’) upstream along Forest Highways 50 and 218 to Spruce Tree Campground (N47˚2’ W115˚21’). From Spruce Tree, trails follow a 29-mile wild river section to Rambikur Falls and St. Joe Lake (N47˚1’ W115˚5’) on the Montana state Line. The river is noted for scenic, crystal clear water, pools, riffles, waterfalls, and moss and fern-covered cliffs extending to the water’s edge.

National Wilderness Areas in  the North Central Rockies Forests

There are eight units of the national wilderness preservation system in the North Central Rockies forests, including the third largest contiguous wilderness area in the US made up by combining the Great Bear, Bob Marshall, and Scapegoat Wildernesses.

Great Bear Wilderness, Flathead NF, Montana, extends from near West Glacier (N48˚30’ W113˚56’) southeast to the Spotted Bear River (N47˚54’ W113˚15’), encompassing 286,700 acres and including 50 miles of the Middle Fork Flathead wild river. The ridge running the length of the wilderness from Pyramid Peak (N48˚27’ W113˚53’) to Beacon Mountain (N47˚59’ W113˚32’) has a continuous alpine zone, while at lower elevations the forests are subalpine fir, grand fir, and Douglas-fir. Other alpine zones are along Vinegar Mountain (N48˚11’ W113˚31’). On Great Northern Mountain (N48˚20’ W113˚47’) is Stanton Glacier. The Bear Creek Trailhead on US Route 2 (N48˚14’ W113˚34’) provides access to a trail that follows the Middle Fork to the Bob Marshall Wilderness boundary (N48˚4’ W113˚10’). The eastern part of the wilderness is in the Lewis and Clark Range and includes Tent Mountain (N48˚9’ W113˚12’). The Spotted Bear River along the southern wilderness boundary is eligible for the national wild and scenic rivers system.

To the south and east of the Great Bear Wilderness is the immense Bob Marshall Wilderness, Flathead NF and Lewis and Clark NF, Montana, encompassing 1,009,000 acres and including the Sawtooth, Chinese Wall, and Swan Ranges. The Chinese Wall (N47˚42’ W113˚9’), a 22-mile-long, 1,000-foot-high escarpment, is a major feature. The Continental Divide National Scenic Trail traverses the wilderness and runs along the base of the Chinese Wall for part of its traverse between Muskrat Pass (N48˚9’ W113˚5’) south to the West Fork South Fork Sun River (N47˚33’ W112˚57’). Rocky Mountain at 9,392 feet (N47˚49’ W112˚48’) is the highest point and is at the headwaters of the South Fork Teton River on the eastern boundary within the Lewis and Clark NF. Fossils of seashells, corals, and tubeworms are evident in the limestone rocks which are 70 to 100 million years in age (Howe 2013). The north end of the wilderness is at Birch Creek (N48˚10’ W112˚54’) near Swift Reservoir on the Blackfoot Reservation, the south end is near Limestone Pass (N47˚17’ W113˚7’), and the southwest end near Pyramid Pass (N47˚16’ W113˚22’). The south and southwest areas are accessible from trailheads in the Lolo NF. The wilderness has extensive areas of alpine vegetation including the Trilobite Range (N47˚57’ W113˚8’), Three Sisters (N47˚46’ W113˚5’), Chinese Wall, Flathead Alps (N47˚31’ W113˚9’), Picture Ridge (N47˚44’ W113˚28’), and Albino Basin (N47˚38’ W113˚38’). The South Fork Flathead wild and scenic river traverses the center of the wilderness from north to south. In the north, the Middle Fork Flathead wild and scenic river also enters the wilderness. Along the South Fork Flathead and to the east, the wilderness is underlain by limestone and carbonate rocks, but these areas are drier than areas to the west and the forest is sparser. To the west of a line created by the alpine peaks Picture Ridge, Scarface, Gordon, and Apex, the forest is moister. Walling Reef Research Natural Area (RNA) (N48˚6’ W112˚47’) contains limestone cliffs south of Swift Reservoir on the Rocky Mountain Front. It also features wind-deformed limber pine and Douglas fir. The Spotted Bear River from its headwaters near Spotted Bear Pass (N47˚45’ W113˚’) north to the wilderness boundary (N47˚54’ W113˚14’) is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system. Gateway Creek (N48˚3’ W113˚0’), a tributary to the Middle Fork Flathead River, flows through a narrow gorge bisecting two large monoliths several hundred feet high and is considered eligible for the national wild and scenic river system. Other streams in the wilderness which are eligible for the national wild and scenic river system are Big Salmon Creek (N47˚34’ W113˚30’), Little Salmon Creek (N47˚39’ W113˚31’), White River (N47˚37’ W113˚12’), and Danaher Creek (N47˚24’ W113˚6’).

Scapegoat Wilderness, Helena, Lewis and Clark, and Lolo NFs, Montana, is 240,000 acres, forested with subalpine fir, Douglas fir, and ponderosa pine; and extending between Deadman Hill (47˚29’ W112˚55’) in the north, Arrastra Mountain (N47˚10’ W112˚3’) in the south and Omar Mountain (N47˚13’ W113˚6’) in the west. Limestone cliffs surround Scapegoat Mountain, creating the south end of the Chinese wall. The Continental Divide National Scenic Trail traverses the wilderness, entering the north end at the South Fork Sun River (N47˚29’ W112˚55’) and following the Dearborn River before exiting at the south end (N47˚10’ W112˚55’). Alpine areas are at Scapegoat Mountain (N47˚19’ W112˚50’) and Olson Peak (N47˚13’ W112˚46’). The wilderness also includes the headwaters of the North Fork Blackfoot River (N47˚11’ W112˚55’). Red Mountain RNA (N47˚7’ W112˚44’) contains alpine tundra and lodgepole pinewith fellfields and stone strip patterning.

In the Mission Range, Mission Mountains Wilderness, Flathead NF, Montana, is 74,000 acres and is noted for alpine lakes. The northern edge of the wilderness is at Fatty Lake (N47˚42’ W113˚56’) and the southern edge is at Gray Wolf Lake (N47˚17’ W113˚49’). The wilderness features peaks that rise 7,000 feet above the valley floors. Turquoise Lake (N47˚21’ W113˚51’) is a mile-long lake at the base of glacial cirques, accessible from a trailhead (N47˚23’ W113˚48’) on Forest Route 561 west of State Route 83 north of Missoula (Howe 2013). An alpine area is at Gray Wolf Peak (N47˚17’ W113˚32’). Adjacent and to the west is Mission Mountains Tribal Wilderness of the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes. The northern edge of the tribal wilderness is at Hellroaring Pass (N47˚41’ W113˚58’) and the southern edge is at Lower Jocko Lake (N47˚12’ W113˚46’). Alpine areas are at Goat Peak (N47˚36’ W113˚59’) in the north and at Gray Wolf Peak in the south. Access to the tribal wilderness is by permit only. The tribal wilderness is closed when grizzlies congregate.

Rattlesnake Wilderness, Rattlesnake National Recreation Area, Lolo NF, Montana, is 28,000 acres and includes the northern reaches of the Rattlesnake Creek watershed. Features are Boulder Lake (N47˚4’ W113˚50’), Grant Creek Basin (N47˚3’ W113˚58’) and Farmers Lakes (47˚0’ W113˚54’) areas.

In western Montana, Cabinet Mountains Wilderness, Kaniksu and Kootenai NFs, Montana, is 94,300 acres in a range of glaciated peaks named for rock formations that look` like boxes or cabinets. There are groves of huge cedars and 94 miles of trails. Snowshoe Peak (N48˚13’ W115˚41’) at 8,736 feet, is the highest point. The wilderness extends 35 miles from north to south, with Grambauer Mountain dominating the north (N48˚24’ W115˚45’) and Goat Peak dominating the south (N48˚0’ W115˚36’). Falls Creek Scenic/Geologic Area (N48˚25’ W115˚47’) includes high falls visible from U.S. Route 2 at the northwestern edge of the wilderness. The northern Cabinets through-hike crosses the wilderness for 31 miles, beginning on U.S. Route 2 west of Libby (N48˚25’ W115˚40’) and extending past Upper Cedar Lake, Minor Lake, Sky Lake, and North Fork Bull River to a trailhead on the Bull River (N48˚13’ W115˚48’).  There is an off-trail section along Pine Ridge south of Sky Lake (Howe 2013). The Bull River tributaries North Fork (N48˚14’ W115˚46’), Middle Fork (N48˚13’ W115˚46’), East Fork (N48˚7’ W115˚44’), and North Fork of the East Fork (N48˚8’ W115˚42’) are eligible for the wild and scenic river system.

Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, Bitterroot, Clearwater, and Nez Perce, NFs, is to the south in Idaho and Montana. Bitterroot NF accesses include Fales Flat (N45˚45’ W114˚27’) and Sam T. Billings-Boulder Creek (N45˚50’ W114˚15’), both on the West Fork Bitterroot River. Boulder Creek Falls (N45˚52’ W114˚18’) in the wilderness is nine miles from the Sam T. Billings Campground. St. Marys Peak (N46˚31’ W114˚15’) is accessible via a 4.5-mile trail which starts at the end of Forest Road 739 west of Stevensville, Montana. The Blodgett Fire Important Bird Area (IBA) (N46˚17’ W114˚16’) is along Blodgett Creek west of Hamilton. In 2000, a stand replacement fire burned through the area between Canyon Creek and Sheafman Creek, creating standing dead trees which now house a concentration of Lewis’s woodpeckers. Colt Killed Creek is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its confluence with the Lochsa River (N46˚30’ W114˚41’) upstream to its headwaters at White Sand Lake in the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness (N46˚27’ W114˚25’). West Fork Gedney Creek in the wilderness up to its headwaters at Cove Lakes (N46˚9’ W115˚14’) is eligible for the national wild and scenic rivers system. Running Creek is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its confluence with the Selway River at Running Creek Ranch in the wilderness (N45˚55’ W114˚50’) upstream to Running Lake (N45˚55’ W115˚3’) in the Nez Perce National Forest. Moose Creek (N46˚7’ W114˚56’) and its tributaries East Fork Moose from its confluence with Moose Creek (N46˚10’ W114˚56’) to its headwaters at Lost Horse  Pass (N46˚11’ W114˚30’), North Fork Moose from its confluence with Moose Creek to its headwaters (N46˚20’ W114˚51’), Rhoda Creek (N46˚14’ W115˚0’), Lone Creek (N46˚14’ W115˚10’), and West Moose Creek (N46˚19’ W115˚0’) are all eligible for the national wild and scenic rivers system.

Clearwater National Forest access to the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness is at Elk Summit (N46˚20’ W114˚39’), south of US Route 12 on Forest Highway 360, and Kookooskia Meadows, west of Forest Highway 360 on Forest Road 358. Wind Lakes Trail from Kokooskia Meadows is one of the more scenic short wilderness trails. The Grave Peak RNA (N46˚24’ W114˚43’) is a glacier-carved cirque basin with five lakes, barren rock, sedge meadows and early successional forest at the north-central wilderness boundary near Elk Summit. Downsteam on the Lochsa River along US Route 12, other wilderness access is at Split Creek (N46˚14’ W115˚25’), Wilderness Gateway (N46˚20’ W115˚19’), Eagle Mountain (N46˚26’ W115˚8’), Mocus Point (N46˚28’ W115˚1’), and Warm Springs (N46˚28’ W114˚53’), where trails head south into the wilderness.

In the Selkirk Mountains of Washington, Salmo Priest Wilderness, Kaniksu and Colville NFs, is an inverted U-shaped area centered on 6,828-foot Salmo Mountain (N48˚58’ W117˚6’) at the northeastern corner of Washington. It contains the largest old growth forest in eastern Washington. Forests are of western red cedar, western hemlock, and Douglas-fir. Round Top Mountain RNA (N48˚49’ W117˚7’) is an area of green fescue subalpine parklands, old growth subalpine fir, and whitebark pine Krummholz on a 6,000-foot mountain. Salmo RNA (N48˚58’ W117˚5’) is a north-facing slope with a subalpine fir-Cascades azalea-fools huckleberry plant association. The Shedroof Divide National Recreation Trail extends 22 miles along the ridge in the eastern portion of the wilderness. The Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail crosses the wilderness at Shedroof Mountain and Crowell Ridge. Within the wilderness the South Salmo River (N48˚59’ W117˚5’) is considered eligible for the national wild and scenic river system.

National Wildlife Refuge (NWR) system in the North Central Rockies forests

In the Flathead Lake area, Batavia Waterfowl Production Area (WPA), Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N48˚10’ W114˚25’) is a 510-acre wetland area on US Route 2 along Ashley Creek west of Kalispell. Creston National Fish Hatchery, Montana (N48˚12’ W114˚6’), provides rainbow trout for fish stocking and mitigation for the Hungry Horse Reservoir. There is a nature trail on the hatchery grounds, which are off State Route 35 east of Kalispell. Lazy N Ranch WPA (Flathead WPA), Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N48˚5’ W114˚10’) contains 2,000 acres and seven miles of lakeshore on Flathead Lake off of State Route 82. It is an IBA for waterfowl and grassland species. Trust for Public Land WPA, Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N48˚7’ W114˚12’) is southeast of the junction of Somers Road and Wiley Dike Road in the Flathead River delta.

In the Swan Valley, Swan River NWR, Montana (N47˚55’ W113˚51’), is 1,500 acres along State Route 83 south of Swan Lake and contains sloughs in floodplains.  Species protected include yellow perch, marsh wren, and grizzly bear. Swan Valley Conservation Area, Montana, extends south from Swan River NWR  to Pierce Lake (N47˚23’ W113˚38’) and is a conservation easement refuge with up to 10,000 acres of easements and 1,000 acres of fee title land. It is considered the last low elevation coniferous ecosystem in the area and is noted for breeding common loons, grizzly bear, wolf, and wolverine.

Along the Blackfoot Valley east of Missoula, Blackfoot Valley Conservation Area is a conservation easement area of up to 103,000 acres including wetland complexes along State Route 200 from Bonner (N46˚52’ W113˚52’) east over 100 miles to Rogers Pass (N47˚5’ W112˚22’). It also extends along Route 141 in the Nevada Creek watershed (N46˚42’ W112˚40’), and Route 83 in the Clearwater River valley (N47˚23’ W113˚38’). Rogers Pass and the Clearwater River valley are in the North Central Rockies forest ecoregion. Upsata Lake Waterfowl Production Area, Montana (N47˚4’ W113˚14’) is a wetland and grassland area of kettle lakes left by a glacier at the south end of the Swan Range.

To the west in the Salish Mountains, Lost Trail NWR, Montana (N48˚11’ W114˚52’) is located on Pleasant Valley Road northwest of Marion and consists of 8,000 acres.  The refuge was established for waterfowl, upland birds, and raptors. McGregor Meadows WPA, Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N48˚2’ W114˚47’) is an extensive meadow on the east side of McGregor Lake along US Route 2. Smith Lake WPA, Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N48˚6’ W114˚27’) is 985 acres on US 2 west of Kalispell within an extensive wetland area in the Smith Valley.

Along the Clearwater River, Dworshak National Fish Hatchery, Idaho (N46˚30’ W116˚19’), is the largest steelhead trout hatchery in the world. Spawning of steelhead trout, Chinnok salmon, and Coho salmon may be viewed in season. It is accessed from State Route 7 north of Orofino. Kooskia National Fish Hatchery, operated by the Nez Perce Tribe of Idaho (N46˚8’ W115˚57’), is on Clear Creek east of Kooskia and is operated to support the Chinook salmon fishery on the Clearwater River. It is the site of Looking Glass’ 1877 Campsite, a site of the Nez Perce National Historical Park.

In northern Idaho, Kootenai NWR, Idaho (N48˚43’ W116˚24’) is 2,800 acres west of Bonners Ferry on a bend of the Kootenai River. This is the largest complex of wetlands and floodplain forests in Idaho. Trails and an auto tour route pass by ponds used by 10,000 ducks, geese, and swans. The area is designated an IBA.  Libby Dam altered natural flooding due to June snowmelt, so the refuge is managed to mimic natural water cycles.

In northeastern Washington, Little Pend Oreille NWR, Washington (N48˚28’ W117˚44’) is 41,500 acres of mixed conifer forest providing late successional forest habitat and riparian habitat. Hiking is available on the Mill Butte Trail and through a boardwalk at McDowell Marsh. There is also an auto tour route. The Baird Basin RNA (N48˚28’ W117˚38’) provides examples of larch-Douglas fir-ponderosa pine cover types, and the Varline Grove-Flodelle Creek RNA (N48˚32’ W117˚34’) was established for research on lodgepole pine cover type. Crystal Falls (N48˚31’ W117˚39’) is on State Route 20 east of Colville. The Cusick Flats Unit of Little Pend Oreille NWR (N48˚23’ W117˚20’) is 254 acres in the Pend Oreille River floodplain at the mouth of Tacoma and Trimble Creeks off State Route 20. The Kaniksu Unit of Little Pend Oreille NWR (N48˚8’ W117˚33’) is a floodplain area and wetland upstream from Deer Lake off US Route 395.

Other federal sites in the North Central Rockies forests

Boundary-Smith Creek Wildlife Management Area, Idaho (N48˚59’ W116˚33’), is on the international boundary at the north end of Westside Road in the Kootenai River valley is an IBA for ruffed grouse, waterfowl, and shorebirds. It was purchased with state and Bonneville Power Administration funds.

Ear Mountain, Bureau of Land Mangement (BLM) Lewiston Field Office and Lewis and Clark NF, Montana (N47˚52’ W112˚39’), is a natural area and two-mile trail on the Rocky Mountain front in the Teton River area.  It is accessed from Forest Road 109 west of Chouteau.

Elkhorn Area of Critical Environmental Concern (ACEC) includes areas surrounding the Helena NF south of Helena, including areas between Radersburg and Boulder (N46˚12’ W111˚53’) and northeast of Boulder (N46˚20’ W112˚0’). It is an elk herd area and protects cultural resource sites.

Hideaway Islands Research Natural Area, BLM, Idaho (N48˚42’ W116˚13’), provides 75 acres of waterfowl habitat on the Kootenai River five miles east of Bonner’s Ferry.

Humbug Spires ACEC and Special Recreation Management Area (SRMA), BLM, Montana (N45˚45’ W112˚39’), is 8,000 acres accessible from the Moose Creek Exit (Exit 99) on I-15. The rolling foothills contains an outcropping of quartz monocyte. Spires rise from 300 to 600 feet above the mountains. The main trail leads to The Wedge.

Marysville Historic Site, BLM, Montana (N46˚45’ W112˚18’) is a former gold mining town northwest of Helena near the Continental Divide.

Pipestone SRMA and Ringing Rocks ACEC, BLM, Montana (N45˚57’ W112˚14’) are along I-90 at exit 241. It is a hiking and off-highway vehicle (OHV) area, with unique geologic features.  There are 75 miles of OHV trails. At Ringing Rocks, the rocks chime when tapped with a hammer. The area adjoins the Deerlodge NF.

Sheep Mountain SRMA and Clancy OHV Area, BLM Butte Field Office, Montana (N46˚30’ W112˚2’) is south of Helena.

Wolf Lodge Bay, Beauty Bay, and Blue Creek Bay, BLM, Idaho (N47˚37’ W116˚41’) are forested shorelines along Lake Coeur d’Alene providing a large concentration of wintering waterfowl and bald eagles, making it an IBA.

References

Websites: wilderness.net, rivers.gov, fws.gov,and http://web4.audubon.org/bird/iba/

Howe, Steve.  2013.  Hidden Montana.  Backpacker, August 2013, pp. 75-81.

 

North Central Rockies Forests, Part D: forests, parks and reservoirs

The review of the national forest system of the North Central Rockies forests concludes with highlights of the Selkirk Range in Idaho and Washington. The areas described are the Colville NF, Kaniksu NF (one of the Idaho Panhandle national forests), and Priest River Experimental Forest. The post continues with a description of national park system areas and reservoirs in the North Central Rockies forests.

Colville NF, Washington, is 953,000 acres, including the mountains on both side of the Pend Oreille River in northeast Washington, along with the Selkirk Mountains and areas east of the Kettle River and Colville River in the North Central Rockies forests ecoregion. Vegetation in the wetter eastern portion of the forest is western red cedar and hemlock. The Forest also includes the Kettle River range to the west of the Kettle River in the Okanogan dry forests ecoregion. The forest is home to the Selkirk Mountain caribou herd. There are 367 miles of trail, including a segment of the Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail. Within the North Central Rockies ecoregion, the trail passes the Salmo Priest Wilderness, Shedroof Mountain, Crowell Ridge, Boundary Dam, Beaver Mountain, Abercrombie Mountain, and North Fork Silver Creek.

To the East of the Pend Oreille River, Bunchgrass Meadows Research Natural Area (RNA) (N48˚41’ W117˚11’) is a mountain meadow and bog on Forest Road 1935 east of Sullivan Lake Road east of Ione. The Mill Pond Flume area (N48˚51’ W117˚48’) provides trailheads to the south of the Salmo-Priest Wilderness. The Maitlen Creek Research Natural Area (N48˚46’ W117˚19’) is a 657-acre Douglas fir-western larch community along Sullivan Lake Road. Halliday Fen RNA (N48˚56’ W117˚17’) is a 724-acre marl fen with 13 rare plants. West of the Pend Oreille River, Abercrombie Trailhead (N48˚56’ W117˚29’) provides access to a 3.2-mile trail to a ridge with panoramic views of the area. It is accessible from Leadpoint on the west side of the Selkirk Range. On the Little Pend Oreille River is the Lake Thomas Trail (N48˚37’ W117˚32’). The forest includes three miles of the Kettle River near the British Columbia border which is considered eligible for the national wild and scenic river system.

Between the Columbia and Kettle River, a small section of the forest is in the Rossland Range extending south from Canada. Pierre Lake (N48˚54’ W118˚8’) is viewed from a lakeshore trail. The Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail passes through this section, passing Elbow Lake and Pierre Creek.

Kaniksu NF, mostly in Idaho but reaching into Montana and Washington, is 1.6 million acres, and is administered by the Idaho Panhandle, Kootenai, and Colville forest supervisors. The Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail crosses the forest, passing Canuck Peak, Ruby Ridge, Moyie River, Bussard Mountain, Brush Lake, Parker Peak, Long Mountain, Lion Creek, Upper Priest Lake, and Little Snowy Top.

In the Clark Geographic Area in Montana (administered as part of the Kootenai NF), the Bull River is a tributary from the right bank of the Clark Fork adjacent to State Route 56. On the South Fork of the Bull River, Berray Cedars Botanical Area (N48˚9’ W115˚48’) is a stand of large old western red cedars.  The East Fork Bull River Botanical Area (N48˚7’ W115˚45’) is an area where northern beech fern grows. The Bull River (N48˚4’ W115˚48’) and its tributaries North Fork (N48˚14’ W115˚46’), Middle Fork (N48˚13’ W115˚46’), East Fork (N48˚7’ W115˚44’), and North Fork of the East Fork (N48˚8’ W115˚42’) are eligible for the wild and scenic river system.

Rock Creek is a tributary to the right bank of Clark Fork below Noxon Dam.  At the headwaters of Rock Creek is Rock Creek Meadows Botanical Area (N48˚3’ W115˚39’), an area of meadows and wetlands. West of Noxon Rapids Reservoir on Marten Creek, Devil Gap Geological Area (N47˚54’ W115˚50’) is an area of cliffs, rock outcrops, and sparse vegetation. At the headwaters of Marten Creek, Ulm Peak RNA, Montana (N47-54, W115-57) is an area of mature mountain hemlock with steep rocky cliffs and two lakes on the Idaho state line.

The Vermilion River is a tributary to the upper end of Noxon Rapids Reservoir. The first 11 miles of the river are considered eligible for the national wild and scenic river system. The Vermilion Falls Recreational Area (N47˚53’ W115˚22’) is a series of falls on the scenic river. South of the river, the Seven Point Genetical RNA (N47˚49’ W115˚22’) is a 2,400-acre stand of whitebark pine. Seeds are collected for research on resistance to blister rust.

In the Lower Kootenai Geographic Area, administered as part of the Idaho Panhandle National Forests, Northwest Peak Scenic Area, Montana (N48˚57’ W115˚58’) is a 13,000-acre area of alpine lakes and open stands of cold-habitat trees in glaciated basins. Included are Rocky Candy Mountain in the Kootenai NF and Northwest Peak in the Kaniksu NF. Copper Falls Geological Area (N48˚58’ W116˚9’) is an 80-foot falls on a tributary to the Moyie River. An interpretive trail provides access from Forest Road 2517 off U.S. Route 95.

On Caribou Ridge, Three Ponds RNA, Idaho (N48˚39’ W116˚26’), is a glaciated basin with shallow ponds and sphagnum bogs within a western paper birch stand. It is southwest of Bonners Ferry. Also southwest of Bonners Ferry via County Roads 2, 13, and Forest Road 402 is Snow Creek Falls (N48˚40’ W116˚26’). In the Cabinet Mountains southeast of Bonners Ferry, Hunt Girl Creek RNA, Idaho (N48˚32’ W116˚10’), includes old growth western hemlock and western redcedar. Wet sedge meadows, fens, and streams are also present. Smith Creek RNA (N48˚52’ W116˚44’) in the Selkirk Crest is upstream of Smith Falls and includes marsh and sphagnum bogs with rare plants.

The Kootenai River (N48˚40’ W116˚6’) is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system where it flows through a canyon from the Montana-Idaho border downstream six miles. Long Canyon Creek is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its headwaters on the Selkirk Crest (N48˚47’ W116˚39’) to its confluence with the Kootenai River (N48˚57’ W116˚32’). Trail 16 follows the creek for most of its length, and the creek is lined with old growth western red cedar.

In the Pend Oreille Geographic Area (administered as part of the Idaho Panhandle NF), Scotchman No. 2 RNA, Idaho (N48˚13’ W116˚4’) is an area of rock cliffs, ledges, talus slopes, a glacial cirque, and forests of subalpine fir and Sitka alder on Scotchman Peak on the Montana border. Also in this geographic area, the Pack River is considered eligible for the wild and scenic river system from its headwaters  at Harrison Lake (N48˚41’ W116˚39’) 15 miles downstream to where it leaves the national forest (N48˚30’ W116˚36’). The river is designated critical habitat for the bull trout.  On Grouse Creek, a tributary to the Pack River, Grouse Creek Falls (N48˚28’ W116˚20’) is in a narrow gorge to the east of Colburn on Forest Road 280.

The Priest Geographic Area includes national forest lands in Idaho and Washington which drain to Priest Lake. The Upper Priest River drainage includes three special areas. Snowy Top RNA, Idaho (N48˚59’ W116˚59’) is a peak in the Selkirk Mountains on the US-Canada border. Near-alpine conditions support subalpine fir, green fescue, wet meadows, and rare plants. The Upper Priest River Botanical Area is 5,000 acres along a 15-mile stretch of the Upper Priest River, from the Canadian border (N49˚0’ W116˚57’) south to near Priest Lake (N48˚50’ W116˚57’). The area is an extensive moist old growth forest of cedar, hemlock, and grand fir. Trees are to ten feet in diameter. A trail follows the river, and the area also contains Upper Priest Falls. Just downstream, Upper Priest River RNA (N48˚49’ W116˚56’) includes the floodplain old growth forest along the Upper Priest and Hughes Fork Rivers above Upper Priest Lake. The RNA is set aside for the old growth and rare plants including northern beech fern. The Upper Priest River is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from the US-Canadian border to Priest Lake. Hughes Fork is also eligible from its headwaters (N48˚57’ W117˚1’) to the confluence with the Upper Priest River (N48˚49’ W116˚56’). Old growth cedar and a large meadow used by grizzly bears are along the stream.

On Priest Lake are three special areas. Upper Priest Lake Scenic Area (N48˚47’ W116˚56’), state of Idaho and Kaniksu NF, completely surrounds Upper Priest Lake and contains old growth red cedar. This area is an IBA for eagles, waterfowl, and passerines. Tepee Creek RNA, Idaho (N48˚43’ W116˚53’) is an area of old growth western white pine on the western side of Priest Lake. Bottle Lake RNA, Idaho (N48˚53’ W116˚53’) is a muskeg bog and vernal pond containing sphagnum and surrounded by western red cedar.  It is on the west side of Priest Lake.

North of Nordman, Forest Road 302 swings west into Washington. The Huff Lake Botanical Area, Washington (N48˚44’ W117˚4’) was set aside to protect several peatland and rare plant types. There is an overlook and boardwalk. Huff Lake is a glacial kettle adjacent to the North Fork Granite Creek. Continuing north on FR 302, Roosevelt Cedar Groves/Granite Falls Scenic Area, Washington (N48˚46’ W117˚4’) is also along the North Fork Granite Creek. This area contains two waterfalls, a small peatland, and old growth western red cedars from four to 12 feet in diameter.

Off of State Route 57 between Priest River and Nordman are five special areas.  Potholes RNA, Idaho (N48˚37’ W117˚1’) is an area of wetlands, springs, and marshes surrounded by western hemlock forests. The area drains into Kalispell Creek west of Priest Lake. On Forest Road 313 west of the Priest Lake airstrip is Hanna Flats Botanical Area (N48˚34’ W116˚59’). The Hanna Flats National Recreation Trail (NRT) winds among old growth western red cedar and rare ferns. To the west of Hanna Flats, Bath Creek Geological Area (N48˚35’ W117˚1’) is a 600-foot-deep outlet of a glacial lake. Binarch Creek RNA, Idaho (N48˚30’ W117˚1’), is an area of beaver ponds inhabited by westslope cutthroat trout, within grand fir and western red cedar forests. Kaniksu Marsh RNA, Idaho (N48˚27’ W116˚56’) is a wet meadow and marsh with sphagnum, sedges, and bog birch. It is adjacent to State Route 57 south of Priest Lake and includes part of the Chipmunk Rapids NRT.

In Washington along the Pend Oreille River is an area of the Kaniksu NF administered by the Colville NF. North of Newport, the Upper Wolf and Lower Wolf Trailheads (N48˚11’ W117˚3’) provide access to mountain biking and other trails on the north side of the city. The Pioneer Park Heritage Trail (N48˚12’ W117˚3’) is on the northeast side of the Pend Oreille River north of Newport and is an interpretive trail on the history of the Kalispel Tribe. An off-road vehicle area is accessed by the Batey-Bould Trailhead (N48˚22’ W117˚22’) west of Cusick. The 49˚North Ski Area (N48˚18’ W117˚37’) is also in the Kaniksu area.

Priest River Experimental Forest, Idaho (N48˚21’ W116˚50’), conducts research on regeneration and site preparation in a variety of forest types, including subalpine fir, grand fir, western hemlock, Douglas-fir, and western red cedar. Within the forest is Canyon Creek RNA (N48˚21’ W116˚45’), which includes western white pine and spruce-fir forest in the Selkirk Mountains northwest of Sandpoint. Wellner Cliffs RNA (N48˚22’ W116˚47’) contains dry cliffs of gneiss, schist and granite with western hemlock, western red cedar, and grand fir; there are riparian areas at the base of the cliffs.

National Park System units of Canada and the United States in the North Central Rockies forests include historical and natural features. The First Oil Well in Western Canada National Historic Site is described under Waterton Lakes National Park in the World Heritage Sites section. Glacier NP, Montana is described under World Heritage sites and national historic landmarks. Prince of Wales Hotel National Historic Site is described with Waterton Lakes NP in the World Heritage Sites section.

Nez Perce National Historical Park, Idaho-Montana-Oregon-Washington, commemorates the sites, stories, and artifacts of the Nez Perce Tribe. Sites in the northern Rocky Mountain forests include the following:

  • Asa Smith Mission, Idaho (N46˚13’ W116˚0’), was the site of an 1839 short-lived mission to the Nez Perce, commemorated because the missionaries wrote a dictionary and grammar of the Nez Perce language.
  • Canoe Camp, Idaho (N46˚30’ W116˚20’), at the confluence of the North Fork Clearwater and Clearwater, was where the Lewis and Clark expedition built canoes for travel to the Pacific Ocean in 1805. The site is four miles west of Orofino on US Route 12.
  • Heart of the Monster, Idaho (N46˚13’ W116˚0’), is the site of the Nez Perce origin story where Coyote defeated a monster and created the Nez Perce people. The site is on US Route 12 east of Kamiah
  • Lewis and Clark Long Camp (N46˚13’ W116˚0’) commemorates a four-week visit where Lewis and Clark camped among the Nez Perce on their return from Oregon in 1806.
  • Lolo Pass, Montana-Idaho (N46˚38’ W114˚35’), is the site of a visitor center on US Route 12
  • Lolo Trail (see description under National Historic landmarks) was used by the Nez Perce in their flight from US Army troops in 1877.
  • Looking Glass’ 1877 Campsite, Idaho (N46˚8’ W115˚57’) is at the Kooskia National Fish Hatchery.  Looking Glass’ band of the Nez Perce tried to remain neutral but was attacked by the Army and joined the other tribal members in the fight.
  • McBeth House, Idaho (N46˚14’ W116˚2’) was the home of Presbyterian missionaries to the Nez Perce in the late 19th century. The house in Kamiah is not open to the public.
  • Musselshell Meadow, Idaho(N46˚21’ W115˚45’) is a traditional camas root gathering area.
  • Pierce Courthouse, Idaho (N46˚ W115˚), commemorates an 1860 gold rush which resulted in the loss of Nez Perce land.
  • Weippe Prairie, Idaho (N46˚21’ W115˚55’) was where Lewis and Clark met the Nez Perce, and was a traditional root gathering area.

Lake Roosevelt National Recreation Area, Washington, which includes a strip of reservoir lands between elevations 1290 and 1310 along the Columbia River impounded by Grand Coulee Dam, extends into the North Central Rockies ecoregion between Marcus (N48˚40’ W118˚4’, river mile 708) and Little Dalles (N48˚52’ W117˚52’, river mile 729). This portion of the NRA provides camping and reservoir recreation in a gorge of the Columbia River accessed by State Route 25.

 Federal and federally licensed recreation lakes in the North-Central Rockies Forests include reservoirs managed by municipalities, public utilities, investor owned utilities, and the federal government. Most take advantage of the hydroelectric power opportunities in the mountainous region.

East of the Continental Divide are three reservoirs. Gibson Reservoir, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N47˚36’ W112˚46’), stores water from Sun River in the Lewis and Clark NF for irrigation west of Great Falls. Sun River Diversion Dam, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N47˚37’ W112˚42’), is three miles downstream from Gibson Dam and diverts water to the Pishkun Supply Canal for transport and storage at Pishkun Reservoir. Lake Sherburne, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N48˚50’ W113˚31’), is a 1,700-acre reservoir with the dam on the Blackfeet Indian Reservation and most of the reservoir within Glacier National Park at the Many Glacier area

The remaining dams are in the Columbia River basin. In the Snake River drainage is Dworshak Reservoir, USACE, Idaho, behind the highest straight-axis gravity dam in North America, at 717 feet, and occupying 54 miles of the North Fork Clearwater River (N46˚31’ W116˚18’). There are 30,000 acres of federal land above the normal pool. On the lower reservoir, there are four environmentally sensitive areas for ponderosa pine maintenance and restoration (Ahsahka Hillside (N46˚0’ W116˚17’), Freeman Creek Point (N46˚33’ W116˚17’), Little Bay (N46˚35’ W116˚15’), Cold Springs (N46˚37’ W116˚15’), and Dent Bridge (N46˚36’ W116˚11’).  Also in the lower reservoir are trails at the dam area (West Ridge and Merrys Bay), Big Eddy (N46˚33’ W116˚18’), Canyon Creek (N46˚33’ W116˚13’), and Cold Springs.  Ore Creek (N46˚37’ W116˚13’), Elk Creek (N46˚41’ W116˚14’), Homestead Creek (N46˚51’ W115˚54’), and Benton Butte (N46˚52’ W115˚48’) are environmentally sensitive areas managed for old growth western red cedar and grand fir. At the junction of the North Fork and Little North Fork Clearwater (N46˚50’ W115˚55’), lands are managed for elk habitat mitigation to replace the lost river bottom vegetation. Magnus Bay (N46˚39’ W115˚29’) is an environmentally sensitive wetland area. Craig Mountain near Lewiston in the Palouse prairie is also managed for elk habitat mitigation from the project. A 2008 Biological Opinion under the Endangered Species Act requires spring and summer water releases from Dworshak Dam to benefit steelhead and Chinook salmon.

On the main Columbia River is Franklin D. Roosevelt Lake (Grand Coulee Dam), Bureau of Reclamation, Washington-British Columbia. The north-central Rockies Forests ecoregion includes the upper reaches of this Columbia River reservoir, including areas around Northport, Washington. On the Spokane River is the Post Falls Project, Avista Utilities, Idaho (N47˚43’ W116˚57’). Parks along the reservoir are managed by the City of Post Falls and contain a hiking trail network.

On the Pend Oreille River and tributaries are eight dams. Boundary Dam and Reservoir, Seattle City Light,Washington (N48˚59’ W117˚21’) is on the Pend Oreille River along State Route 31. Pewee Falls drops 200 feet into the reservoir near the dam. A campground on the reservoir (N48˚56’ W117˚20”) is managed by the Bureau of Land Management. The dam supplies one third of Seattle’s power. Box Canyon Dam and Reservoir, Public Utility District No. 1 of Pend Oreille County, Washington (N48˚47’ W117˚25’) is on the Pend Oreille River north of Ione in the Colville NF. Further upstream in Idaho, Lake Pend Oreille, USACE, Idaho, is a natural lake in the Purcell Trench that has been raised by Albeni Falls Dam. Near the dam the lake is more riverine, and the original natural lake bed is east of Sandpoint. The dam and visitor center (N48˚11’ W117˚0’) are on US Route 2 just east of the Washington state line at Pend Oreille River mile 90.  Large volumes of woody debris flow down the Clark Fork River each spring, and a driftwood control facility is located at the confluence with the lake (N48˚8’ W116˚11’). Morton Slough Game Management Area (N48˚12’ W116˚41’), is an IBA for migrating diving ducks at river mile 105.

Upstream from Lake Pend Oreille is the Clark Fork River. Cabinet Gorge Dam and Reservoir, Avista Utilities, Montana (N48˚5’ W116˚4’), is a 263-MW facility on the Clark Fork River on Route 200 at the Idaho state line. Noxon Rapids Reservoir, Avista Utilities, Montana (N47˚58’ W115˚44’) is a 488-MW facility on the Clark Fork River on Route 200 in western Montana. Thompson Falls Dam, NorthWestern Energy, Montana (N47˚35’ W115˚21’), is a 94-MW facility on State Route 200 on the Clark Fork River Mile 208.

The Flathead River, a tributary to the Clark Fork, includes Kerr Dam in the Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands ecoregion and Hungry Horse Reservoir, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N48˚20’ W114˚1’) is west of Glacier National Park in the Flathead National Forest.  The 6,800-acre, 34-mile-long reservoir provides water recreation in a deep canyon of the South Fork Flathead River. Recreation facilities are managed by the Flathead National Forest.

In the Bitterroot River valley are two Bureau of Reclamation facilities. Como Reservoir, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N46˚3’ W114˚15’) stores irrigation water from Rock Creek in the Bitterroot NF. A seven-mile National Recreation Trail circles the lake and passes a waterfall. Rock Creek Diversion Dam, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N46˚4’ W114˚13’) diverts water to Bitter Root Feeder Canal for irrigation east of Hamilton, Montana.

On the Kootenai River and tributaries are two dams. Moyie Dam, City of Bonners Ferry, Idaho (N48˚44’ W116˚11’) is just above 85-foot Moyie Falls, off of U.S. Route 2 in northeastern Idaho. Koocanusa Lake, USACE, Montana-British Columbia, is 90 miles long.  Libby Dam (N48˚25’ W115˚19’) was constructed in the Kootenai Narrows to impound the reservoir. The upper end of the reservoir is in British Columbia near Cranbrook (N49˚27’ W115˚27’). The Kootenai NF in the US maintains recreation facilities. In BC, Kikomun Creek Provincial Park and Wardner Provincial Park are on the reservoir.  To mitigate for the loss of riverine habitat, the USACE funds the Murray Springs State Fish Hatchery (N48˚57’ W115˚9’), where trout are reared, in the Tobacco Plains area. The Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail is along the reservoir shoreline near Rexford.

to be continued

North Central Rockies Part C: National Forests of the Clearwater-Bitterroot Ranges

The Clearwater and Bitterroot Ranges are found along the Montana-Idaho border and include extensive wilderness areas. However, outside of the wildernesses are a number of special features, described in this post, Part C of the North Central Rockies ecoregion.

Bitterroot National Forest (NF), Idaho-Montana is 1.6 million acres on both sides of the north-south trending Bitterroot Valley. To the east of the valley are the Sapphire Mountains, described in the Idaho Batholith section of the South Central Rockies Forest ecoregion. To the west of the Valley are the Bitterroot Mountains, an area of steep rocky canyons and sawtooth ridges described here. Lick Creek Demonstration Forest (N46˚5’ W114˚15’) is north of Lake Como. A seven-mile scenic auto tour on Forest Road 5621 extends from Lake Como to Lost Horse Creek and interprets the forest, which has been managed to promote ponderosa pine health. Lost Horse Creek (N46˚8’ W114˚22’) and Blodgett Creek (N46˚17’ W114˚19’) are glaciated U-shaped valleys with streams considered eligible for the wild and scenic river system. Lost Horse Canyon contains three Research Natural Areas (RNAs). Lower Lost Horse Canyon RNA (N46˚7’ W114˚17’) is a glacially scoured, U-shaped valley off of the southern Bitterroot Valley with Douglas fir and subalpine fir. Upper Lost Horse Canyon RNA (N46˚8’ W114˚0’) is a subalpine forest on the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness boundary with Bailey Lake and a wetland area. Between these two RNAs are 12 or more south-facing avalanche slides making up the Bitterroot Mountain Snow Avalanche RNA (N46˚9’ W114˚26’). The non-forested snow slides are rich in herbaceous diversity. The Blodgett Fire Important Bird Area (IBA) (N46˚17’ W114˚16’) is along Blodgett Creek west of Hamilton. In 2000, a stand replacement fire burned through the area between Canyon Creek and Sheafman Creek, creating standing dead trees which now house a concentration of Lewis’s woodpeckers.

Trapper Peak Vista (N45˚56’ W114˚13’) is southwest of Darby on the West Fork Road, then right (north) on Forest Road 374, then south on Forest Road 5627. It provides views of the 10,000-foot peak. Bass Creek Overlook (N46˚35’ W114˚10’) is west of Stevensville at the end of Forest Road 1136 from Bass Creek Recreation Area, and provides views of the Bitterroot Valley. The Bear Creek Trailhead (N46˚23’ W114˚15’) is the starting point for a for a two mile hike to Bear Creek Falls; the trail continues into the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness. The Canyon Creek Trailhead (N46˚15’ W114˚15’) west of Hamilton is the starting point for a 1.5-milehike to the Blodgett Overlook, providing views of canyons and valleys. Camas Lake (N46˚9’ W114˚17’) is a 3.5-mile hike from the Camas Creek trailhead which branches off of Lost Horse Road south of Hamilton.

The Magruder Corridor (Forest Highway 468) extends west from the Bitterroot River (N45˚48’ W114˚16’) to Sabe Saddle (N45˚41’ W114˚57’) between the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness and the Selway Bitterroot Wilderness. The corridor then extends west through the Nez Perce NF to the Red River. From Fales Flat (N45˚45’ W114˚27’) on Forest Highway 468, a loop trail on the border of the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness can be hiked.  Overwich Falls (N45˚43’ W114˚5’) is accessible via an eight-mile hike beginning off of Forest Road 5706 east of Painted Rock Lakes.

Boulder Creek RNA (N45˚50’ W114˚16’) is upstream from a campground on the West Fork Bitterroot River and contains ponderosa pine-Douglas fir with cliffs, snow shutes, and talus slopes.

Clearwater NF, Idaho, is 1.7 million acres on the western side of the Bitterroot Range. The North Fork Clearwater Corridor of the forest is accessible from Orofino from the end of State Route 11 at the town of Headwaters. Forest Road 247 follows Beaver Creek into the area. The Little North Fork Clearwater River (N46˚55’ W115˚43’) is in a remote northwest corner of the forest on the border with the St. Joe National Forest and is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system. The North Fork Clearwater is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from Dworshak Reservoir (N46˚51’ W115˚41’) upstream to its headwaters on Graves Peak (N47˚0’ W115˚6’).  To the north of the North Fork is the Mallard Larkins Pioneer Area (N46˚56’ W115˚34’), St. Joe and Clearwater NFs, a 14,000-acre area on a ridge crest with glacial lakes, ancient cedars, and alpine vegetation. It is accessible from Isabella Point trailhead (N46˚53’ W115˚36’) on Forest Road 705 and Smith Ridge Trailhead (N46˚54’ W115˚41’) on Forest Route 700 north of the North Fork Clearwater River. Also in the area is the Heritage Cedar Grove Special Area (N46˚55’ W115˚35’), in the headwaters of Isabella Creek and Elmer Creek. Nearby At Isabella Landing, a seven-mile trail leads downriver to the Dworshak Reservoir amid old growth cedars. It passes Aquarius RNA (N46˚52’ W115˚40’), 4,000 acres with disjunct taxa along the North Fork Clearwater River just upstream of Dworshak Reservoir at Mile 55. Unique species and vegetation communities in the area include red alder, western red cedar/shield fern association, and Coeur d’Alene salamander. The Sheep Mountain off highway vehicle area (N46˚42’ W115˚38’) is reached from the end of Route 11 at the town of Headquarters via Forest Highway 246. Chateau Falls RNA (N46˚41’ W115˚31’) is a series of waterfalls along Chateau Creek, a tributary to the North Fork Clearwater River, with open grasslands, shrublands, and Douglas-fir forest. Five Lakes Butte RNA (N46˚57’ W115˚17’) is on the border between the Clearwater and St. Joe National Forests. It is a 300-acre subalpine glaciated basin with mountain hemlock and two fishless lakes.

At the Fourth of July Trailhead (N46˚40’ W115˚23’), the Windy Ridge Trail extends 24 miles southeast, connecting with the Lolo Trail (Forest Highway 500) at 12-Mile Saddle (N46˚31’ W115˚9’). This trail provides views of the Great Burn area of 1910. Upstream on the North Fork, trailheads in the Kelly Forks Area (N46˚43’ W115˚15’) explore the mountains to the east along Kelly Creek and Forest Highway 255, a loop off of Route 250. Kelly Creek from Kelly Forks upstream to the confluence of the Middle Fork Kelly (N46˚44’ W114˚52’) is eligible for the wild and scenic river system, as are South Fork Kelly, Middle Fork Kelly, and North Fork Kelly Creeks. Cayuse Creek is an eligible wild and scenic river from its confluence with Kelly Creek (N46˚43’ W115˚1’) upstream to its headwaters (N46˚37’ W114˚47’). As Forest Highway 250 approaches the Montana border, Forest Highway 295 extends eastward, providing a trailhead for the high elevation Fish Lake (N46˚49’ W115˚55’) on the Montana border.

The Lolo Trail area is a National Historic Landmark corridor through the forest, mostly defined by Forest Highway 500, although the original trail winds north and south of the modern road. The trail passes Lolo Creek Campground, Hungery Creek, Sherman Saddle, Indian Grave Peak, Indian Post Office, Papoose Saddle, and Packer Meadows in the Clearwater NF. Musselshell Meadows Special Area (N46˚21’ W115˚45’) is a traditional Indian camas root gathering area east of Weippe Prairie. Mussellshell Creek is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from Musselshell Meadows downstream to the confluence with Lolo Creek (N46˚19’ W115˚45’). Lolo Creek is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its headwaters on Hemlock Butte (N46˚28’ W115˚38’) downstream to the forest boundary (N46˚17’ W115˚45’). Bald Mountain RNA (N46˚27’ W115˚15’) is a green fescue bald on the Lolo Trail (Forest Highway 500), notable for white rhododendron at the southern limit of its range. Four Bit Creek RNA and Walde Mountain Botanical Area (N46˚17’ W115˚38’) are off the Lolo Trail (Forest Highway 500) along Eldorado Creek east of Weippe Prairie. These areas contain western redcedar and white pine forests. The Lewis and Clark Grove Special Area (N46˚18’ W115˚43’) is old growth redcedar on the Lewis and Clark route of the Lolo Trail along Forest Highway 520.

The Lochsa River corridor portion of the forest extends along both sides of US Route 12 between Kooskia and Lolo Pass. Much of this 100-mile section of US 12 is beside the Middle Fork Clearwater River and Lochsa River, designated segments of the wild and scenic river system. Lochsa RNA (N46˚14’ W115˚32’) is 1,500 acres on US Route 12 at Glade Creek and is notable for disjunct shrubs from Pacific coastal areas, including the Pacific dogwood. Fish Creek, a Lochsa tributary, is eligible for the wild and scenic river system from its confluence with the Lochsa (N46˚20’ W115˚21’) upstream to its headwaters at (N46˚22’ W115˚36’), and Hungery Creek is eligible from its confluence with Fish Creek (N46˚21’ W115˚24’) upstream to its headwaters (N46˚24’ W115˚34’). Hungery Creek is part of the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail route. Both streams are accessible by trails only.

At Wilderness Gateway (N46˚20’ W115˚19’), Sherman Creek Trail heads seven miles north to the Lolo Trail. Dutch Creek RNA (N46˚23’ W115˚14’) is along the Lochsa River near Ninemile Rest Area on U.S. Route 12 and contains stands of northwest paper birch and grand fir. The Colgate Elk Licks Special Area (N46˚28’ W114˚56’) includes a National Recreation Trail (see listing below). Warm Springs trailhead provides access to Jerry Johnson Hot Springs (N46˚28’ W114˚53’). Sneakfoot Meadows RNA (N46˚27’ W114˚39’) is 1,900 acres south of Powell Ranger Station on U.S. 12 and west of the road to Elk Summit and contains a wetland complex of marsh, bogs, and fir. Steep Lakes RNA (N46˚53’ W114˚57’) contains two lakes, one of which has no fish. There is old growth mountain hemlock in a glaciated area on the Montana-Idaho border of the Bitterroot Mountains. The 12-mile hike along the canyon of Colt Killed Creek (N46˚31’ W114˚41’), south of US 12 on Forest Highway 111 and 360 and Forest Road 359, is known for views of rushing water and steep terrain. Colt Killed Creek is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its confluence with the Lochsa River (N46˚30’ W114˚41’) upstream to its headwaters at White Sand Lake in the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness (N46˚27’ W114˚25’). To the east on US 12, the Devoto Grove Special Area (N46˚32’ W114˚40’) provides a walk through western red cedars up to 2,000 years old.  Finally, the Lolo Pass Visitor Center (N46˚38’ W114˚35’) provides year-round interpretation at the Montana-Idaho border.

Coeur d’Alene NF, Idaho, is administered as part of the Idaho Panhandle National Forests group and consists of 724,000 acres. On Forest Road 439 about five miles east of Lake Coeur d’Alene is Red Horse Mountain RNA (N47˚33’ W116˚39’), established for research on dry plant communities. The old growth ponderosa pine-bunchgrass forest is in near pristine condition. Other dry plant communities include grasslands and low shrubs. In this area, a short section of the Coeur d’Alene River at Rose Lake (N47˚32’ W116˚29’) through the forest downstream from Cataldo is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system.

The North Fork Coeur d’Alene River from its headwaters on Powder Mountain (N48˚0’ W116˚19’ to its confluence with the South Fork (N47˚33’ W116˚15’) is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system. Most of the river is followed by Forest Highways 9 and 208; however, some of the upper portion is roadless and the Coeur d’Alene NRT follows the river. Along the trail are Cathedral Rocks (N47˚56’ W116˚10’), a group of rock spires overlooking the river. East of the North Fork on West Fork Eagle Creek is the Settlers Grove of Ancient Cedars Botanical Area (N47˚43’ W115˚49’). It contains old growth western red cedar to seven feet in diameter and large western white pine. It is accessible from Prichard on the Coeur d’Alene River via Forest Highways 9 and 152 and Forest Road 805. There are three RNAs in the upper Coeur d’Alene River watershed. Pond Peak RNA (N47˚51’ W116˚3’) includes old growth mountain hemlock and a pond on a 6,000-foot peak in the Shoshone Range. Spion Kop RNA (N47˚53’ W116˚7’) includes northern black cottonwood on the floodplain of the North Fork Coeur d’Alene River. Upper Shoshone Creek RNA (N47˚55’ W116˚0’) is a forest of old growth western and mountain hemlock on Ulm Peak in the Bitterroot Range, accessed from Forest Highway 412.  There is a waterfall and spring on the site.

In the western part of the forest, the Little North Fork Coeur d’Alene River is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its headwaters on Honey Mountain (N47˚54’ W116˚30’) to the confluence with the North Fork Coeur d’Alene River (N47˚37’ W116˚14’). Forest Highway 209 follows the river for its entire length. Deception Creek Experimental Forest (described below) is along the Little North Fork.

The Lookout Pass Ski Area (N47˚27’ W115˚42’) is on I-90 at the Montana state line. Just north of Lookout Pass, the Mullan Road (N47˚28’ W115˚40’) was the first road across the northern Rockies, completed in 1860 across Mullan Pass. South of I-90 at Wallace, the Pulaski Tunnel Trail (N47˚27’ W115˚57’) is a two-mile one way hike to the mine adit where a firefighting crew took shelter during the Big Burn of 1910.

Coeur d’Alene Tree Nursery, Idaho (N47˚43’ W116˚49’) is north of Coeur d’Alene and supplies trees to public lands in the western U.S. There are 130 acres of irrigated seedbeds and 17 greenhouses.

Deception Creek Experimental Forest, Idaho (N47˚44’ W116˚30’) is on the Little North Fork Coeur d’Alene River in the Coeur d’Alene NF. Research on the western white pine forest type and management of coarse woody debris is the focus at this facility 32 km east of Coeur d’Alene. The Montford Creek RNA is located within the experimental forest and includes old growth western white pine.

Nez Perce NF, Idaho, is 2.2 million acres between the Salmon River and the Clearwater River in central Idaho. A southern tributary to the Clearwater is the Selway River, and its watershed is in the forest.  The Selway River Corridor extends east from US Route 12 at Lowell and includes Selway Falls (N46˚3’ W115˚18’). Forest Road 223 follows the river and provides access to trailheads for the Selway Bitterroot Wilderness. O’Hara Creek RNA (N46˚0’ W115˚31’) contains cascades and disjunct Pacific coast vegetation on a tributary of the Selway River. Upper Newsome Creek RNA (N46˚0’ W115˚40’) is on Forest Road 464 in the South Fork Clearwater watershed and contains old growth grand fir with Pacific yew. Gedney Creek upstream from its confluence with the Selway River (N46˚3’ W115˚19’) and its tributary West Fork Gedney Creek up to its headwaters at Cove Lakes (N46˚9’ W115˚14’) are eligible for the national wild and scenic river system. Meadow Creek is also eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its confluence with the Selway River (N46˚3’ W115˚18’) upstream to Mountain Meadows on the Magruder Corridor (N45˚42’ W115˚14’). Running Creek is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its confluence with the Selway River at Running Creek Ranch in the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness (N45˚55’ W114˚50’) upstream to Running Lake (N45˚55’ W115˚3’). Warm Springs Creek RNA (N45˚51’ W114˚56’) contains two warm springs at the southern limit of western red cedar and the eastern limit of western larch.  Forests also are dominated by Douglas-fir and grand fir.

The Highway 14 Corridor is along the South Fork Clearwater River downstream from Elk City. The scenic river canyon includes granite outcroppings and extensive wildflower viewing areas and is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from near Elk City (N45˚48’ W115˚29’) downstream to Kooskia (N46˚9’ W115˚59’). Johns Creek is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its confluence with the South Fork Clearwater (N45˚49’ W115˚53’) south to Baking Powder Mountain area (N45˚40’ W115˚46’) in the Gospel Hump Wilderness. Anderson Butte NRT is east of Elk City and Sourdough Saddle hiking area (N45˚44’ W115˚49’) is south of the South Fork Clearwater.

The Magruder Corridor begins near Elk City on the Red River (N45˚49’ W115˚29’). From the junction with State Route14, Forest Highway 57 extends further upstream to the Red River Ranger Station, then Forest Highway 468 traverses the boundary between the Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness and Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness to Sabe Saddle, where the corridor enters the Bitterroot NF. Bargamin Creek is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its headwaters near Three Prong Mountain on the Nez Perce National Forest (N45˚46’ W114˚56’) downstream to the confluence with the Salmon River (N45˚34’ W115˚12’) in the Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness. Forest Highway 443 extends from Elk City (N45˚50’ W115˚26’) north to Selway Falls (N46˚3’ W115˚18’) on the Middle Fork Clearwater River.

St. Joe NF, Idaho, is 866,000 acres included administratively in Idaho Panhandle National Forests and the Clearwater NF. On Forest Highway 321 north of Clarkia are two special areas. Hobo Cedar Grove Botanical Area (N47˚5’ W116˚7’) is a 700-acre area containing ten-foot-diameter trees and is a National Natural Landmark. Nature trails lead through the area. Theriault Lake RNA (N47˚9’ W116˚2’) includes wet meadows and mountain hemlock old growth forests at the foot of Marble Mountain to the northeast of Clarkia. West of Clarkia on Forest Highway 447 is the 2,300-acre Emerald Creek Recreation Area (N47˚0’ W116˚22’). This is an area where the star garnet, the state gemstone of Idaho, is found. The only other location where star garnets are found is India. To avoid water quality concerns from stream disturbance, the Forest Service provides garnet-bearing gravels in which people can search for garnets.

On the North Fork of the St. Joe River north of Avery along County Road 456, the Route of the Hiawatha Rail Trail begins at Pearson (N47˚21’ W115˚44’) and extends 15 miles to East Portal, Montana (N47˚24’ W115˚38’).  The railroad made a broad loop to gain elevation to cross the pass between Montana and Idaho. The bicycle trail includes seven high tressels and the 1.6-mile St. Paul Pass Tunnel.

On Forest Highway 301 south of Avery are three special areas.  Sandhouse Cedar Grove Botanical Area (N47˚8’ W115˚53’) is at the junction of Forest Highways 301 and 201. It is a near-climax stand of western red cedar, with trees exceeding five feet in diameter in an open fern understory. In the same area to the east, Upper Fishhook RNA (N47˚7’ W115˚52’) contains old growth western red cedar on a granite substrate. Further south on Forest Highway 301, Fortynine Meadows RNA (N47˚6’ W115˚53’) is a high elevation peatland surrounded by a wet mountain hemlock forest.

Forest Highway 201 leads east from the Fishhook area on Forest Highway 301 to the Snow Peak Cooperative Wildlife Management Area (N47˚3’ W115˚33’). This is an area of checkerboard ownership between the state and federal governments, with 12,000 acres of state land and 20,000 acres of national forest ownership. The area is managed for mountain goat and other high elevation animal species; there are 40 miles of trail.

On the ridge separating the St. Joe River watershed from the Clearwater watershed are two special areas.  The Mallard Larkins Pioneer Area (N46˚56’ W115˚34’), St. Joe and Clearwater NFs, a 14,000-acre area on a ridge crest with glacial lakes, ancient cedars, and alpine vegetation. Five Lakes Butte RNA (N46˚57’ W115˚17’) is a 300-acre subalpine glaciated basin with mountain hemlock and two lakes, only one of which contains fish.

The forest includes the St. Joe River, which is a national wild and scenic river. The Little North Fork Clearwater River is considered eligible for the wild and scenic river system from its headwaters near Fish Lake (N47˚6’ W115˚58’) downstream to Dworshak Reservoir (N46˚53’ W115˚52’); the river is noted for roadless canyons and rapids and mature western cedar and hemlock groves. The Idaho Centennial Trail follows the eastern boundary of the forest along the ridge at the state line with Montana.

The Palouse corridor of the St. Joe NF is west of the Dworshak Reservoir and extends west to the Washington state line. This area, administered by the Nez Perce-Clearwater NF office, includes Elk Creek Falls National Recreation Trail (N46˚44’ W116˚10’), Giant Cedar Grove Special Area and NRT (N46˚53’ W116˚7’), the Elk River Backcountry Byway, and the White Pine Scenic Byway, along with trailheads at  Potlatch Canyon (N46˚46’ W116˚27’), and Feather Creek (N46˚56’ W116˚25’). The White Pine Scenic Byway ascends the Hoodoo Mountains and passes the White Pine Special Area and NRT (N47˚1’ W116˚41’), which houses an Idaho record tree. A side road, Forest Road 377, leads to Bald Mountain for views of the Palouse prairie (N47˚2’ W116˚40’). Potlatch Canyon trailhead, on Forest Highway 1963 off of State Routes 3-8 at Helmer, provides an old railroad bed through a canyon with towering cedars and meadows. Bull Run Creek RNA (N46˚44’ W116˚11’) includes parts of Tick Ridge, a basalt plateau to the south of the town of Elk River. There are western red cedar and coastal disjunct species here.To the north of Elk River is the Elk Butte Mountain Hemlock Special Area (N46˚51’ W116˚7’) and the Morris Creek Cedar Grove Special Area (N46˚51’ W116˚13’), which contains old growth western redcedar.

to be continued

North Central Rockies Forests, Part B: National Forest System I

Part B National Forest System I

The National Forest system in the North Central Rockies forests ecoregion includes 17 areas, including three experimental forests, a tree nursery, a national recreation area, and 13 national forests. Coram Experimental Forest, Montana, was previously described under biosphere reserves. National forests are described in parts B, C, and D of the North Central Rockies posts.

National Forests of the Continental Divide, Swan, and Mission Ranges

Deerlodge NF, Montana, is 1.2 million acres and includes the southernmost portions in the North Central Rockies forests. The Continental Divide NST traverses the eastern Anaconda Range and almost encircles Butte to the south, east, and north within the forest. The Upper Clark Fork landscape area of the forest surrounds Butte.  Thompson Park (N45-53 W112-28) on State Route 2 south of Butte is managed as a municipal park.  Also south of Butte is the Basin Creek Reservoir municipal watershed area including Basin Creek RNA (N45˚49’ W112˚32’) on the Continental Divide south of Butte in the Boulder Batholith.  It contains granite outcrops, small summits and swales.  Sedges and willows dominate the basin.

In Jefferson River landscape area are Hells Canyon (N45˚41’ W112˚25’), Highland Mountains (N45˚43’ W112˚29’), Upper Whitetail Park, Mountain, and Reservoir (N46˚5’ W112˚17’), and the Bull Mountains (N46˚6’ W112˚4) of the Boulder Batholith.  Dry Mountain RNA (N45˚58’ W112˚13’) is in the Boulder Batholith east of Butte.  It contains old growth Douglas-fir and grassland-steppe vegetation north of Pipestone Hot Springs. Lost Park RNA (N46˚1’ W112˚17’), also in the Boulder Batholith north of Pipestone Hot Springs, is an undisturbed subalpine wetland with willow-sedge riparian areas, grassland, and subalpine fir.

In the Boulder River landscape are two RNAs.  Bernice RNA N46˚15’ W112˚28’ is west of I-15, exit 151, on a north-facing slope overlooking the Boulder River and contains old growth Douglas-fir, spruce/northern twinflower, and scattered aspen. Thunderbolt Mountain RNA N46˚20’ W112˚26’ is on the Continental Divide north of I-15, Exit 151 and consists of a drier subalpine forest of lodgepole pine, subalpine fir, along with wet meadows and bogs.  This landscape also includes the Kit Carson Peak area (N46˚11’ W112˚30’) and the Little Boulder River watershed (N46˚10’ W112˚30’).

The southwestern portion of the Elkhorn Mountains including the area around Elkhorn State Park (N46˚16’ W111˚57’) are also in the Deerlodge NF. The Elkhorn Mountains portion of the forest is within the Elkhorn Cooperative Management Area, a wildlife management area which contains hiking opportunities. The CMA also includes part of the Deerlodge NF and BLM lands.

To the north of the Deerlodge along the Continental Divide is the Helena NF, Montana, which is 975,000 acres and includes areas west of the Missouri River that are in the North Central Rockies forests. The southern approaches to the Scapegoat Wilderness are in the forest. South of Helena is the Elkhorn Cooperative Management Area, a wildlife management area which contains hiking opportunities. The CMA also includes part of the Deerlodge NF and BLM lands. Within the Elkhorn area is Crow Creek Falls (N46˚20’ W111˚48’), reached by a hike beginning on Forest Road 424 in the southern part of the area. Another hike within the CMA is the Eagle Trail, a 3.5-mile loop from the Eagle Guard Station (N46˚19’ W111˚45’). The Mount Helena NRT begins in a city park and extends through the forest. The Continental Divide NST extends through the forest from north to south from the Scapegoat Wilderness boundary (N47˚10’ W112˚33’) south to Lewis and Clark Pass (N47˚9’ W112˚26’), Rogers Pass (N47˚5’ W112˚22’), MacDonald Pass (N46˚33’ W112˚9’), and the Deerlodge NF boundary (N46˚20’ W112˚29’). Indian Meadows RNA (N47˚6’ W112˚36’) is north of Lincoln and contains fens, ponds, and marshes on a glaciated bench forested with Douglas fir and spruce. Red Mountain RNA (N47˚7’ W112˚44’) contains alpine tundra and lodgepole pine, with fellfields and stone strip patterning.

Lewis and Clark NF, Montana, is 1.8 million acres and includes areas west of the Missouri River in the North Central Rockies forest ecoregion, known as the Rocky Mountain division of the forest.  The area is mostly forested but about 15 percent of the area is mountain meadows or rocky peaks. The mountain ranges consist of high elevation parallel limestone reefs separated by deep valleys. At the North End geographic unit of the forest along US Route 2, the Summit Campground (N48˚19’ W113˚21’) serves as the trailhead for an extensive hiking area, including the Two Medicine-Elk Calf loop trail (N48˚17’ W113˚15’) and the Continental Divide NST. The Walling Reef RNA (N48˚6’ W112˚47’) includes this area and part of the Bob Marshall Wilderness. The Blackleaf-Dupuyer Geographic Unit includes Volcano Reef (N48˚2’ W112˚42’) and trailheads accessing the Bob Marshall wilderness through the North Fork Dupuyer and Blackleaf Creek.  There is winter range for elk, bighorn sheep, and mule deer. The Teton Geographic Unit includes the watersheds of the North, South, Middle, and West Forks of the Teton River.  The Teton Pass Ski area (N47˚56’ W112˚48’) and the Blacktail-South Fork NRT and Jones Creek NRTs are in this area. Rocky Mountain at 9,392 feet, is the highest point and is reachable from Our Lake.  Fossils of seashells, corals, and tubeworms are evident in the limestone rocks which are 70 to 100 million years in age (Howe 2013).  The South Fork Teton Trailhead (N47˚51′ W112˚47′) is the beginning of the trail to Our Lake.  Heading south from the same area on Forest Route 109 is the South Fork Teton-Blacktail NRT, which crosses the Deep Creek-Reservoir North Geographic Unit and ends at the North Fork Sun River (N47˚37′ W112˚46′).

Along the North Fork Sun River is the Sun Canyon Geographic Unit which contains the Gibson Dam reclamation facilities (N47˚36’ W112˚48’) and trailheads. South of the reservoir, the Lange Creek Trail leads south to the Patricks Basin (N47˚33’ W112˚50’) and Renshaw Geographic Unit, home to the Sun River elk herd.  Benchmark-Willow Geographic Unit contains an airfield (N47˚29’ W112˚52’) along Wood Creek.

At the south end of the Rocky Mountain portion, the Elk Creek Geographic Area contains Cataract Falls (N47˚19’ W112˚36’) and provides access to the Scapegoat Wilderness over Elk Pass. The Falls Creek Geographic Unit (N47˚15’ W112˚29’) also provides wilderness access via Falls Creek and the Dearborn River, which flows through the forest in a scenic gorge at Devils Glen (N47˚15’ W112˚34’).

Wagner Basin RNA (N47-37, W112-43) is 965 acres just north of the Sun River Diversion Dam on the Rocky Mountain Front.  The RNA contains a limestone spring known for wildflowers, limestone spires, cliffs, and talus slopes.  Wildlife includes bighorn sheep and grizzly.

Flathead NF, Montana is 2.4 million acres including the Great Bear and Bob Marshall wildernesses, described separately. There are 2,100 miles of trails, including a Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail segment. There are six geographic areas used to describe the forest.

Hungry Horse Geographic Area includes lands draining to the Hungry Horse Reservoir and South Fork Flathead River downstream of the dam. Coram Experimental Forest and parts of the Great Bear Wilderness (both described separately) are in this geographic area. In the Hungry Horse Reservoir area are reservoir recreation areas. The Jewell Basin Hiking Area (south end N48˚5′ W113˚53′, north end N48˚12′ W113˚55′) is between Flathead Lake and Hungry Horse Reservoir in the Swan Range.  Numerous lakes and Mount Aeneas are found here. Aeneas Creek (N48˚8’ W113˚51’W) is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system.

Middle Fork Geographic Area. Parts of the Great Bear Wilderness and Bob Marshall Wilderness (both described separately) are in this geographic area, which is along US Route 2 east of Kalispell and south of Glacier NP. Nyack Flats (N48˚27’ W113˚49’) is a wide floodplain opening in the canyon of the Middle Fork noted for lush vegetation.

North Fork Geographic Area includes national forest lands in the North Fork Flathead watershed. Tuchuk RNA (N48˚56’ W114˚38’) is 2,000 acres in the Tuchuk Creek watershed on the slopes of Review Mountain with whitebark pine, subalpine fir, larch, and wet meadows.  Forest trails 23 and 113 traverse the area, which is west of Glacier NP near the Canadian border. The Yakinikak Cave system (N48˚56’ W114˚32’) is along Forest Road 114 and accessible by permit. Yakinikak Creek (N48˚55’ W114˚36’) and Nokio Creek (N48˚56’ W114˚42’), a tributary of Yakinikak Creek, are eligible for the national wild and scenic river system. The Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail traverses this portion of the forest, passing Thoma Lookout and Tuchuck Mountain.

In the Salish Mountains Geographic Area, LeBeau RNA (N48˚35′ W114˚44′) is 5,700 acres in the Flathead and Kootenai National Forests west of Upper Stillwater Lake and Olney on US Route 93. It contains Ketowke Mountain, seven ponds, fens, montane and subalpine forests, wetlands, and rocklands. LeBeau Creek (N48˚36’ W114˚41’) is considered eligible for the national wild and scenic river system. To the south, Miller Creek Research Demonstration Forest (N48˚31’ W114˚42’) is 5,000 acres for the study of prescribed fire and forest regeneration. Little Bitterroot RNA (N48˚0′ W114˚43′) is a 200-acre isolated tract of the Flathead NF at the Hidden Lakes area on the Little Bitterroot River south of US Route 2.  There is a narrow canyon with rock cliffs and Douglas-fir forest. Logan Creek is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system from its headwaters (N48˚15’ W114˚41’) to its confluence with the Stillwater River (N48˚29’ W114˚32’) near US Route 93.

South Fork Geographic Area is upstream of Hungry Horse Reservoir and includes the South Fork Flathead River watershed. The Bob Marshall Wilderness is mostly within this geographic area. The entire Spotted Bear River is eligible for the national wild and scenic river system, including portions within the wilderness areas. Fens along the Spotted Bear River harbor rare plants.  Limestone walls are visible from the Spotted Bear River along Forest Trail 83 (N47˚54’ W113˚16’) and Forest Road 568 (N47˚56’ W113˚20’), and Forest Road 2826 along the South Fork Flathead River (Spotted Bear Mountain, N47˚53’ W113˚25’). The portion of Spotted Bear River outside the wilderness areas extends from the Great Bear Wilderness boundary (N47˚54’ W113˚14’) to the South Fork Flathead River (N47˚55’ W113˚32’).

Swan Valley Geographic Area. The Bigfork Glacial Grooves (N48˚1’ W114˚2’) were formed when the Swan Valley Glacier collided with a larger ice sheet flowing from the north and was forced to change direction. They are up to two miles long and 900 feet deep. The Condon Creek Botanical Area (N47˚35’ W113˚42’) contains 15 ponds, most of which support water howellia, a federally threatened aquatic plant. East Shore RNA (N48˚1′ W114˚2′) is montane coniferous forest of Douglas-fir and grand fir with talus and rockfields just north of Woods Bay and east of Flathead Lake. Swan River RNA (N47˚52′ W113˚52′) contains an unusual raised peatland along with wetlands in a forest of western red cedar and grand fir, just south of Swan River NWR.

Rattlesnake National Recreation Area, Montana, is 60,000 acres and contains 73 miles of trails just north of Missoula. Trails lead to Stuart Peak (N47˚0′ W113˚55′), Sheep Mountain (N46˚57′ W113˚48′), and along Rattlesnake Creek.  Shoofly Meadows RNA (N47˚0’ W113˚46’) contains wetlands, sphagnum bogs, and peat soil forests on the East Fork Rattlesnake Creek.

National Forests of the Purcell-Cabinet Ranges

Kootenai NF, Montana, is 1.8 million acres in the northwestern corner of Montana and a small section in Idaho, including the Purcell Mountains, Salish Mountains, and Cabinet Mountains.  Administered as part of the forest are the Clark Fork River watershed portions of the Kaniksu NF in Montana; this portion of the forest is described under the Clark Geographic area of the Kaniksu NF (see). The Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail crosses the forest, passing Weasel Meadow, Mount Wam, Ten Lakes Scenic Area, Kootenai Lake, Webb Mountain, Purcell Summit, Mount Henry, Fish Lakes, Upper Ford Yaak River, Garver Mountain, Pole Creek Meadows, and Northwest Peak.

The Bull Geographic Area includes areas below Kootenai Falls including the Lake Creek watershed and Bull Lake. Star Creek drops over a series of waterfalls before entering the Kootenai River opposite of the Yaak River confluence.  This is the Star Creek Canyon Geological Area (N48˚33’ W115˚59’). The Callahan Historical Mining and Logging District Historic Area, Idaho-Montana, includes 3,000 acres along Callahan Creek (N48˚37’ W115˚54’), South Callahan Creek (N48˚24’ W116˚6’), and Glad Creek west of Troy on U.S. Route 2, including a railroad running along the creek. Halverson Face Botanical Area (N48˚20’ W116˚2’) protects northern beechfern on north-facing weeping rock walls, on Forest Road 473 along Halverson Creek.  Spar Springs Geological Area (N48˚17’ W115˚54’)  contains seeps which flow at the rate of 60 to 80 cubic feet per second and are the outlet for Spar Lake, which does not have a surface stream flowing from it. Bad Medicine Zoological Area (N48˚14’ W115˚52’) is 2,000 acres of vertical cliffs to the west of Bull Lake which are used by nesting peregrine falcon.  The area also has sensitive plant species.

At the upper end of Bull Lake, there are three special areas along Ross Creek.  Ross Falls Geological Area (N48˚12’ W115˚53’) is a waterfall in a narrow gorge.  Upstream, Ross Creek Scenic Area (N48˚12’ W115˚55’) has a one-mile, two-loop nature trail passing eight-foot-diameter, 175-foot-high cedars.  The cedar grove continues westward in Lower Ross Creek RNA (N48˚12’ W115˚57’), which has 1,874 acres of large, mature western cedars up to 1,000 years old in age. The area is off State Route 56 four miles west of Bull Lake. East of State Route 56, Doonan Peak RNA (N48˚18’ W115˚46’) is a 504-acre glacial cirque at the head of Madge Creek adjacent to the western edge of the Cabinet Mountains Wilderness.  It is an area of hybrid western larch and alpine larch. The Spar Lake Campground is the trailhead for the hike to Spar Peak (N48˚13’ W115˚59’).

In the Fisher River Geographic Area is Wolf-Weigel RNA (N48˚29′, W114˚59′), south of Trego on Wolf Creek Road at the junction of Wolf and Weigel Creeks. The 250-acre area contains a waterfall and wetlands in a subalpine fir forest.  The Cody Lakes Botanical and Zoological Area (N48˚19’ W115˚14’) is a series of three small lakes with calcareous-loving shrubs and sedges.  These provide habitat for the northern bog lemming.  Near US Route 2 along the Fisher River is the Kenelty Caves Geological Area (N48˚3’ W115˚21’).  The caves formed in Cambrian-aged limestone.  On the eastern portion of the forest on an isolated national forest land tract, Barnum Wetland Botanical Area (N48˚7’ W115˚4’) is a marsh and wetland meadow supporting sedges, rushes, and pink spirea.

In the Koocanusa Geographic Area, Montana State Route 37 between Libby and Eureka is the Lake Koocanusa Scenic Byway.  The road is 67 miles and follows a narrow gorge; bighorn sheep can be seen on rock outcrops.  There are five geological areas, a botanical area, a recreational area, a historical area, and a research natural area.  Pinkham Falls Geological Area (N48˚50’ W115˚9’) is on Pinkham Creek Road.  The north-flowing creek abruptly drops over a waterfall and turns into a west-flowing canyon.  A trail leads downstream from the falls to Camp 32. Stone Hill Recreational and Geological Area (N48˚47’ W115˚17’) is a rock climbing area.  The steep valley walls were glacially scoured due to a restriction in the valley along Lake Koocanusa.  The area is accessible from State Route 37. At nearby Sutton Falls Geological Area (N48˚46’ W115˚16’), a spring melt waterfall drops over 100 feet. At Tenmile Talus Geological Area (N48˚38’ W115˚8’), a notch in the divide between Pinkham Creek and Tenmile Creek was caused by glacial meltwater flows.  Downstream, Tenmile Falls Geological Area (N48˚37’ W115˚10’) is a series of waterfalls in a steep-walled canyon. Little North Fork Falls Recreational Area (N48˚45’ W115˚22’) is a recreational area along Big Creek on the west side of Lake Koocanusa. Barron Creek Historical Area (N48˚31’ W115˚18’),also on the west side is an early homestead site on the Kootenai River.

To the west of the lake, Upper Big Creek Riparian Ecosystem Botanical Area (N48˚37’ W115˚28’) is a former 3,000-acre glacial lake bed between Lawrence Mountain and Lost Soul Mountain.  It is now a lodgepole pine forest. Big Creek RNA (N48˚44’ W115˚20’) is 200 acres on the west side of Lake Koocanusa with a Douglas-fir-dwarf huckleberry habitat.  Big Creek (N48˚45’ W115˚23’) and eight tributaries—Little North Fork Big Creek (N48˚45’ W115˚22’), South Fork Big Creek (N48˚43’ W115˚29’), North Fork Big Creek (N48˚47’ W115˚32’), Good Creek (N48˚47’ W115˚28’), Copeland Creek (N48˚44’ W115˚32’), Lookout Creek (N48˚41’ W115˚29’), East Fork Lookout Creek (N48˚41’ W115˚27’), and unnamed tributary to Lookout Creek (N48˚39’ W115˚28’)—are all eligible for the national wild and scenic river system.

In the Libby Geographic Area is Norman Parmenter RNA (N48˚23’ W115˚41), west of Libby between Norman Mountain and Parmenter Creek.  The 1,300-acre area contains Douglas-fir forest and black cottonwood riparian forest on the creek. South of Libby, Tepee Lake Botanical Area (N48˚10’ W115˚24’), located east of US Route 2, is a floating sphagnum fen with sundews and other fen plants.  West of Route 2, Libby Gold Panning Recreation Area (N48˚7’ W115˚32’) is on Libby Creek near Howard Lake Campground. Southwest of Libby, Flower Lake Botanical Area (N48˚21’ W115˚38’) is a floating sphagnum fen with low pH surface water, supporting boreal toad, sundew, watershield, creeping sedge, and pod grass. Northwest of Libby, the Bitterroot Point Botanical Area (N48˚27’ W115˚40’) supports bitterroot flowers on shallow rocky ledges overlooking the Kootenai River near U.S. Route 2.  The flowers are on south-facing slopes of Flagstaff Mountain east of Kootenai Falls near Hunter Gulch.  Kootenai Falls Historic Area (N48˚27’ W115˚46’) is along U.S. Route 2 where historic period activities such as railroading, a Chinese settlement, homesteading, and placer mining took place.  The Kootenai River from Jennings (N48˚22’ W115˚21’) downstream to Leonia on the Idaho border (N48˚37’ W116˚3’) is eligible for the national wild and scenic rivers system. Its tributaries downstream from Libby, Quartz Creek (N48˚28’ W115˚39’) and West Fork Quartz Creek (N48˚31’ W115˚41’) are also eligible. North of Libby, the East Fork Pipe Creek Geological Area (N48˚40’ W115˚34’) has unusual adjacent notches created by outflow from glacial lakes on the South Fork Big Creek.  The area now drains south to the Kootenai River near Libby instead of east via Big Creek. Huson Peak RNA (N48˚33’ W115˚44’) is north of the Kootenai River and contains a healthy stand of whitebark pine, used for seed collecting for research on white pine blister rust resistance. It is 1,700 acres including Huson Peak, O’Brien Mountain, and Quartz Mountain.

In the Tobacco River Geographic Area is Ten Lakes Scenic Area (N48˚58’ W114˚56’), east of Eureka in the Galton Range, extending over 15,000 acres. There are 89 miles of trails in this alpine glaciated area, 20 miles east of US Route 93 off of Forest Roads 114 and 319.  There are three geological areas, five botanical areas, and one research natural area in this watershed of the forest.  Hamilton Gorge Geological Area (N48˚42’ W115˚1’) was an outlet for glacial meltwaters; on the west side of the canyon is an esker formed by meltwaters. Therriault Pass Geological Area (N48˚55’ W114˚53’) is a U-shaped feature in Gibraltar Ridge, visible from US 93.  Ice backed up to the west from a glacial lobe and gouged the notch. The Tobacco River tributaries Grave Creek (N48˚52’ W114˚49’), Stahl Creek (N48˚55’ W114˚49’), Clarence Creek (N48˚56’ W114˚49’), and Blue Sky Creek (N48˚53’ W114˚44’) in the Whitefish Range are all eligible for the national wild and scenic rivers system.

The 494 Road Bedrock Meadow Botanical Area (N48˚37’ W115˚4’) is on the west side of a peak in the Salish Mountains and provides habitat for Nevada bitterroot and Harkness’ linanthus. Swamp Mountain Meadows Botanical Area (N48˚35’ W114˚58’) includes two five-acre grassy openings on an east-facing ridge with unique plants.  Rocky Fivemile Forest Botanical Area (N48˚33’ W115˚3’) is at the headwaters of Lake Creek.  Rock outcrops in a spruce-fir forest host lichens and between the rock outcrops are wetlands.  Rock crevasses contain rare arctic-alpine species.

Along US Route 93 south of Fortine, the campground at Dickey Lake provides access to a 14-mile trail to Mount Marston (N48˚46’ W114˚47’), offering panoramic views from a lookout tower.  The Ant Flat Interpretive Center (N48˚43’ W114˚53’) is a historic ranger station. Hidden Lake Botanical Area (N48˚40’ W114˚47’) is near Stryker on US Route 93. This is an area of orchids amid three lakes and two swampy areas. Lower Sunday Creek Ecosystem Botanical Area (N48˚38’ W114˚45’) is a riparian forest with old growth western cedar and skunk cabbage.  There is a waterfall within the area, which is south of Stryker off US Route 93.   LeBeau RNA (N48˚35′ W114˚44′) is 5,700 acres in the Flathead and Kootenai National Forests west of Upper Stillwater Lake and Olney on US Route 93. It contains Ketowke Mountain, seven ponds, fens, montane and subalpine forests, wetlands, and rocklands.

Along Lake Koocanusa, Gateway Prairie Botanical Area (N49˚0’ W115˚8’) is a 2,000-acre grassland, with plants disjunct from the Palouse Prairie ecoregion.  Rexford Hoodoos Geological Area (N48˚54’ W115˚9’) includes erosional remnants of a drumlin on the Tobacco River embayment of Lake Koocanusa.

The Yaak River Geographic Area contains diverse botanical, geological, historical, recreational, and scenic areas. The Yaak River from the East Fork Yaak River (N48˚57’ W115˚37’) downstream to its confluence with the Kootenai River (N48˚34’ W115˚59’) is eligible for the wild and scenic river system. On the lower Yaak River is Yaak Falls Recreational Area (N48˚39’ W115˚53’), a waterfall adjacent to the Yaak Highway. The Yahk Mining District Historical Area (N48˚42’ W115˚53’) protects 200 features dating to the 1890s north of Fourth of July Creek, destroyed by the Big Burn of 1910.  Between the confluence of Spread Creek downstream to the confluence with Otis Creek and the Yaak River, northern beechfern is common.  This is the Spread Otis Creeks Botanical Area (N48˚49’ W115˚52’). Just to the east along the Yaak River, the Pete Creek Botanical Area (N48˚51’ W115˚46’) is a five-mile reach of Pete Creek with northern beechfern growing in an old growth red cedar forest.  Further upstream on Pete Creek, Pete Creek Meadows RNA (N48˚58’ W115˚50’), is a 155-acre series of wet meadows with sedges and subalpine fir.

Vinal Lake Botanical Area (N48˚51’ W115˚39’) is a glacial lake perched above the Yaak River surrounded by a moist forest.  Hoskins Lake RNA (N48˚53’ W115˚38’) is 380 acres of Douglas-fir, western larch, Engelmann spruce, and red cedar with fens and wet meadows on Hoskins Lake, a tributary of the Yaak River.  The lakes are separated from the Yaak River by two steep knobs. Vinal Creek (N48˚52’ W115˚38’) and its tributary Turner Creek (N48˚52’ W115˚34’) are eligible for the national wild and scenic river system.  Along the creeks are old growth western larch and cedar, Turner Falls, and Vinal Creek National Recreation Trail, part of the Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail. The Wood Creek Larch Scenic Area (N48˚58’ W115˚37’) is further upstream along the Yaak River, protecting an old growth western larch stand.

The West Fork confluences with the Yaak River after flowing over two waterfalls. These falls are in the Lower West Fork Yaak Falls Geological Area (N48˚56’ W115˚42’). Upstream of the falls, French Creek joins the Yaak River.  The French Creek Cedars Botanical Area (N48˚55’ W115˚45’) is an old growth cedar and larch grove with 500-year-old trees exceeding 50 inches diameter at breast height. At the headwaters of the West Fork Yaak River and Spread Creeks is the Northwest Peak Scenic Area (N48˚57’ W115˚58’), a 13,000-acre area of alpine lakes and open stands of cold-habitat trees in glaciated basins.  Included are Rocky Candy Mountain in the Kootenai NF and Northwest Peak in the Kaniksu NF.  The West Fork Yaak River from its confluence with the Yaak (N48˚55’ W115˚40’) upstream to the Canadian border (N49˚0’ W115˚46’) is eligible for the wild and scenic river system.

In the South Fork Yaak River watershed are Kelsey Creek Botanical Area (N48˚46’ W115˚38’), habitat for rare moonwort species, and Lost Horse Fen Botanical Area (N48˚45’ W115˚35’), a large floating sphagnum mat with unique cliffs and outcrops above it, harboring rare species at the base of Pink Mountain.

Lolo NF, Montana is 2.1 million acres in western Montana along both sides of I-90 at Missoula. It is influenced by maritime climates, producing wet western red cedar bottoms as well as typical northern forests of larch and whitebark pine. It extends cross several mountain ranges including the Cabinets and Bitterroots and Mission Ranges, but is included here for geographic convenience, since it is south of the Kootenai and Flathead forests.

I-90 leads through much of the forest west of Missoula. The Nine Mile Remount Depot Visitor Center (N47˚4’ W114˚24’) was the site of breeding mules for firefighting duty since the 1930s.  The Grand Menard Discovery Trail is a two-mile loop nearby on Forest Highway 476 north of Exit 82 on I-90.  The Petty Creek Bighorn Sheep Viewing Site (N46˚57’ W114˚26’) is on Forest Highway 489 south of I-90, Exit 77. Petty Creek RNA (N46˚51’ W114˚25’) is off Forest Highway 489 between I-90, Exit 77, and US Route 12, on the East Fork of Petty Creek and contains a Douglas-fir and grand-fir forest. The Route of the Hiawatha Rail Trail begins at Pearson, Idaho (N47˚21’ W115˚44’) and extends 15 miles to East Portal, Montana (N47˚24’ W115˚38’) in the Lolo NF.  The railroad made a broad loop to gain elevation to cross the pass between Montana and Idaho. The bicycle trail includes seven high tressels and the 1.6-mile St. Paul Pass Tunnel. Savenac Historic Tree Nursery, at Exit 16 on I-90, established in 1907, is now an arboretum and visitor center which also interprets the Big Burn of 1910 (N47˚23’ W115˚24’).

The Blue Mountain trail system (46˚50’ W114˚5’) is two miles southwest of Missoula off of U.S. Route 93, with 41 miles of trails. Along US Route 12 southwest of Missoula is the Lolo Peak Trail (N46˚43’ W114˚11’), which is reached via Forest Road 612 south of US 12. The trail leads four miles south from FR 612 to Carlton Lake in the Bitterroot NF and on the edge of the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness. The trail is known for views of the Missoula and Bitterroot Valleys. Along the trail is Carlton Ridge RNA (N46˚41’ W114˚11’). An extensive alpine larch grove, along with western larch, is found here.

The Lolo NF extends downstream along the Clark Fork to Thompson Falls. Ferry Landing RNA (N47˚20’ W114˚53’) is on State Route 135 on the Clark Fork River east of St. Regis.  The site shows evidence of repeated scouring by floods from glacial lake Missoula and is forested scree of ponderosa pine and Douglas-fir. Along State Route 200 eight miles east of Thompson Falls is the Koo-Koo-Sint Bighorn Sheep Viewing Site (N47˚35’ W115˚10’). Barktable Ridge RNA (N47˚41’ W115˚8’) is an old growth mountain hemlock forest in the Thompson River watershed north of Thompson Falls.

Sheep Mountain Bog RNA (N46˚57’ W113˚47’) is northeast of Missoula in a cirque at the base of Sheep Mountain.  This wet sphagnum bog has 11,500-year-old peat deposits.  Pyramid Peak RNA (N47˚15’ W113˚24’) borders the Bob Marshall Wilderness and contains Douglas fir-globe huckleberry plant types.  There is a snow avalanche track.

National Forest System description continues in Part C

North-Central Rockies Forests, Part A

Swiss-themed chalets, a transboundary environmental controversy on the Flathead, and the Big Burn

Part A includes an overview of the ranges of the northern rockies and the international and national designations such as World Heritage Sites, Ramsar Sites, Biosphere Reserves, National Historic Landmarks, and National Natural Landmarks. This part begins a discussion of the North Central Rockies forests south of the 50th parallel, an extensive area of parallel ranges separated by deep trenches.

The easternmost line of peaks are along the Continental Divide, and include, from north to south:

  • Clark Range, the border between Alberta and British Columbia
  • Lewis Range, which defines the Continental Divide in Glacier National Park and Waterton Lakes National Park
  • Sawtooth Range, an area in the Lewis and Clark National Forest and Bob Marshall Wilderness to the east of the Continental Divide
  • Lewis and Clark Range, which defines the Continental Divide in the Bob Marshall Wilderness
  • General Robert E. Lee Range, which is in the Helena National Forest between State Route 200 and US Route 12
  • General Eisenhower Range, in the Helena National Forest between US Route 12 and I-15
  • Highland Mountains, the southernmost range of the North Central Rockies just south of Butte

The second line of peaks is between the trench occupied by the North Fork Flathead River and the Whitefish River. The MacDonald Range (British Columbia) or Whitefish Range (Montana) is to the north of US Route 2. Most of this mountain range in the US is in the Flathead National Forest. To the south of US Route 2, between the South Fork Flathead and Swan River is the Swan Range, which is included in the Flathead and Lolo National Forests. Between Flathead Lake and the Swan River, the Mission Range extends southward and is in the Flathead and Lolo National Forests.

The third line of peaks to the west is the Salish Mountains, located to the east of the Kootenai River (Lake Koocanusa) and extending south to Flathead Lake. These are mostly in the Kootenai and Flathead National Forests.

The fourth line of peaks is the Purcell Mountains, drained by the Kootenai River and tributaries. Kootenai Lake and its trench in British Columbia define the west side and the Kootenai River/Lake Koocanusa defines the eastern side. The Kootenai National Forest and Purcell Wilderness Conservancy provincial park include parts of these mountains.

South of the Purcell Mountains, between U.S. Route 2 and State Route 200, are the Cabinet Mountains. These are included in the Kootenai and Kaniksu National Forests. South of the Cabinets, the Coeur d’Alene Mountains extend between the Clark Fork River (State Route 200) and St. Regis River (I-90) and are included in the Coeur d’Alene National Forest, Kaniksu National Forest, and Lolo National Forest. South of the St. Regis River (I-90), the Bitterroot Mountains occupy the boundary between Montana and Idaho, extending from Lookout Pass on I-90 south to the Salmon River. The Lolo National Forest south of I-90 and Bitterroot National Forest west of the Bitterroot River Valley include these mountains. South of the Bitterroots are the St. Joe Mountains, included in the St. Joe National Forest, and the Clearwater Mountains, south of the St. Joe River and extending south to the Salmon River.

The fifth line of peaks, to the west of the Kootenay Trench in British Columbia, Idaho, and Washinton is the Selkirk Mountains, between the Columbia River on the west and Kootenay Lake on the east. The Kookanee Glacier Provincial Park, Kaniksu National Forest, Salmo Priest Wilderness, Colville National Forest, Little Pend Oreille National Wildlife Refuge, and Mount Spokane State Park contain lands within this range.

Finally, west of the Columbia River and east of the Okanogan River are the Monashee Mountains, the sixth line of peaks. These are mostly in British Columbia. Gladstone and Granby Provincial Parks and a small portion of the Colville National Forest are in this range, which also extends west into another ecoregion, the Okanogan dry forests.

The North-Central Rockies were the site of a devastating series of fires known as the Great Burn of 1910. This was shortly after the establishment of the US Forest Service, and the fires made a deep and lasting impact on the agency which continues today. The fire prevention and suppression policies that were put in place are influential worldwide (www.foresthistory.org). Fires in the summer of 1910 spread over large areas of the Clearwater, Lolo, Kootenai, Flathead, Blackfeet (Lewis and Clark), and Kaniksu National Forests, as well as Glacier National Park. On August 20 hurricane-force winds caused the “Big Blowup” and the fires could not be stopped. There were dramatic tales of survival among the undermanned and understaffed fire-fighting crews. In all, three million acres of land was burned and 85 people were killed in the northern Rockies. The debate on forest fire policy that followed was largely won by the fire suppression group, although some argued that backcountry fires should be allowed to burn themselves out or that more frequent burning to reduce fuel loads would be an appropriate policy.

The North Fork Flathead River, which originates in British Columbia and flows into Montana, is part of the national wild and scenic river system in the united States and forms the boundary between Glacier National Park and Flathead National Forest. It has been the subject of a transboundary controversy over coal mining and coalbed methane proposals in British Columbia. A science team conducted a comprehensive comparison of the water quality in the Flathead and the Elk River, the site of more than 50 years of coal mining. Waters of the Elk basin in British Columbia were determined to be significantly more polluted than the Flathead. The United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) also determined that mining in the Flathead basin would be incompatible with the maintenance of Waterton-Glacier National Parks as a World Heritage Site. In 2010, the Premier of British Columbia and the Governor of Montana signed an accord prohibiting coal mining, coal bed methane extraction and gas and oil exploration and development in the North Fork Flathead River Basin (Hauer and Muhlfeld 2010).

There is one World Heritage Site in the North-Central Rockies forests south of the 50th parallel. Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park, Alberta-Montana, consists of adjoining Canadian and U.S. national parks and was established to highlight the glacial landforms, distinctive climate, physiographic setting, mountain prairie interface, and tri-ocean hydrographic divide of the Crown of the Continent region. Waterton Lakes and Glacier parks are also international biosphere reserves. Glaciation resulted in horn-shaped peaks, U-shaped valleys, hanging valleys, arêtes, cirques, and lakes along with 50-60 small glaciers now in retreat. The area also showcases large animal migration and grizzly bear country. The Lewis Overthrust fault is a large low angle thrust fault, the best displayed in North America. It was folded and uplifted, then pushed eastward on top of younger Cretaceous formations. Displacement was up to 80 km and preserved ancient sediments containing Precambrian stromatolites. The parks are located at the mountain-prairie interface, providing examples of ongoing ecological processes. Ecologically, the mountains also catch Pacific moisture, marking the easternmost occurrence of many species.Another superlative is that the area contains 98 percent of the world’s stock of Westslope cutthroat trout.

Glacier National Park has 740 miles of trails. Some of the major visitor areas are along the Going-to-the-Sun Road, which is a national historic landmark. Lake McDonald Valley (N48˚32’ W114˚0’), on the southwest side of the park at the western end of the Going-to-the-Sun Road, includes a 500-foot-deep lake and is ten miles long. Hanging valleys surrounding the lake descend to the area through waterfalls. The Apgar Visitor Center is located here. Logan Pass (N48˚42’ W113˚43’) is the crest of the Going-to-the-Sun Road, and is noted for fields of wildflowers in the summer. St. Mary Valley (N48˚45’ W113˚26’) is at the east side of the Going-to-the-Sun Road at the mountain-prairie boundary. It includes a ten-mile-long lake.

Along the North Fork Flathead River in the northwest part of the park are Kintia Lake (N48˚50’ W114˚21’) and Bowman Lake (N48˚50’ W114˚12’), which provide tours of fire ecology, a homestead site, and the northern three-toed and black-backed woodpecker. Glacier NP hosts 275 species of birds, 14 of global or continental conservation concern, making it an IBA for species such as the olive-sided flycatcher, Brewer’s sparrow, and Cassin’s finch.

East of the Rockies are three areas off the beaten path. Goat Haunt (N48˚57’ W113˚54’) is reached by water from Waterton Lakes NP or by trail. Many Glacier (N48˚48’ W113˚39’) is considered the heart o the park with active glaciers. There is a hotel on Swiftcurrent Lake. Two Medicine (N48˚29’ W113˚22’) in the southeast is noted for trails, lakes, and waterfalls. The Continental Divide National Scenic Trail connects Goat Haunt, Many Glacier, Two Medicine, and Marias Pass (N48˚19’ W113˚21’) on US 2 on the southern boundary of the park.

Waterton Lakes NP, Alberta, showcases the mountain-prairie interface, since the park extends into the prairie habitat. There are 200 km of trails. The core area is the national park and the proposed buffer zone extends to the Pincher Creek, Crowsnest Pass, and Cardston areas. Along the Entrance Parkway is the Prince of Wales Hotel National Historic Site (N49˚3’ W113˚54’) (operated by Glacier Park, Inc., www.glacierparkinc.com), overlooking Upper and Middle Waterton Lakes. The 1927 hotel was built by the Great Northern Railroad like the sister Glacier National Park hotels. The Entrance Parkway leads to the Waterton Park townsite (N49˚3’ W113˚55’). From Waterton Park, Akamina Parkway leads 16 km to Cameron Lake (N49˚1’ W114˚3’) on the international border and containing subalpine habitats. Along the way is the First Oil Well in Western Canada National Historic Site (N49˚4’ W114˚0’). A third scenic drive in the park is the Red Rock Parkway (N49˚5’ W113˚55’), which connects with the Entrance Parkway. In the northern part of the park on Route 6 is the Bison Paddock (N49˚8’ W113˚54’), where bison can be seen grazing grasslands.

There is one Ramsar site in the North Central Rockies forests. Creston Valley Wildlife Management Area, British Columbia (N49˚6’ W116˚34’) is the most important waterfowl habitat in the province. It is managed by a special authority and extends over 17,000 acres, from the US-Canadian border to Kootenay Lake. It is a critical breeding, staging and wintering area for waterfowl including the tundra swan, white-fronted goose, western grebe, breeding Fosters tern, black tern, and wood duck. The Wildlife Interpretation Centre is at Corn Creek, where there is a trail system leading through the floodplain wetlands along the Kootenai River. Other areas are Duck Lake (N49˚10’ W116˚37’), known for thousands of waterfowl, Six Mile Slough, with ponds and dikes, and Dale Marsh at the US border. Forests are western hemlock, red cedar, and western white pine. The area is on both sides of Route 3 west of Creston. In addition to the Ramsar designation, the site is an Important Bird Area and a Canadian Amphibian and Reptile Area.

There are three Biosphere Reserves in the north central Rockies forests. Coram Experimental Forest Biosphere Reserve, Flathead NF, Montana (N48˚22’ W113˚59’), is located on Emery Ridge east of Martin City on Forest Road 38. Research at this site in Hungry Horse, Montana, focuses on western larch regeneration. The Walk with Larch trail consists of two loops in the old growth forest. The Coram RNA is on lower slopes with old growth western larch, Douglas-fir, and a wet meadow. Nearby Hungry Horse, Montana, hosts the Larix Arboretum (N48˚23’ W114˚3’).

Glacier NP Biosphere Reserve, Montana, is described under the Waterton Glacier International Peace Park world heritage site description. The Great Northern Railway Buildings, Going-to-the-Sun Road, and Lake McDonald Lodge in Glacier NP are National Historic Landmarks and are described below under NHLs. Waterton Lakes NP Biosphere Reserve, Alberta, is also described under the Waterton Glacier International Peace Park world heritage site. Within the park is the Prince of Wales Hotel National Historic Site and First Oil Well in Canada National Historic Site.

There are five National Historic Landmarks in the North Central Rockies forests:

Coeur d’Alene’s Old Mission State Park (Cataldo Mission), Idaho (N47˚33’ W116˚22’), also called the Mission of the Sacred Heart, was used by the Jesuits in the 1850s in their efforts to convert the Coeur d’Alene Indians. It is the oldest building in Idaho. Hand hewn beams are secured with wooden pegs. No nails were used in the construction.

Going-to-the-Sun Road, Glacier National Park, Montana, built between 1922 and 1937, became the model for roads in national parks and public lands, introducing the concept of landscape engineering and a model for innovative road engineering as part of the American park movement. The portion of the road from Apgar (N48˚31’ W113˚59’) to St. Mary (N48˚45’ W113˚26’) is within the NHL district. The road is also a National Civil Engineering Landmark. In addition to the road itself, the district includes the following structures:

  • Sprague Creek Culvert (N48˚36’ W113˚53’)
  • Snyder Creek Culvert (N48˚37’ W113˚53’)
  • Horse Trail Underpass (48-38, 113-51)
  • Avalanche Creek Bridge (48-41, 113-49)
  • Logan Creek culvert (48-43, 113-46)
  • West Side Tunnel (48-45, 113-47)
  • Granite Creek (Alder Creek) culvert (48-45, 113-46)
  • Haystack Creek culvert (48-44, 113-45)
  • Triple Arches (48-43, 113-43)
  • East Side Tunnel (48-42, 113-42)
  • Siyeh Creek culvert (48-42, 113-40)
  • Baring Creek bridge (48-41, 113-36)
  • St. Mary River bridge (48-45, 113-27)
  • Divide Creek bridge (48-45, 113-26)

Great Northern Railway Buildings, Montana, is a five-property NHL. The railroad chose a distinctive architectural style, the Swiss chalet, for its Glacier NP development. These structures are the largest collection of Swiss chalets in the U.S. The system of buildings was designed to mimic a European-style resort where major resort hotels are linked to backcountry chalets by trails.

Property 1 is the Belton Chalets, West Glacier, Montana (N48˚29’ W113˚59’), is a group of hotel buildings built 1910 to 1911, the first of the Great Northern tourist hotels, and is just outside of Glacier NP. The buildings retain the arts and crafts ambiance of the early 1900 and are still operated as a hotel (www.beltonchalet.com).

Property 2 is the Many Glacier Hotel Historic District, Glacier NP, Montana (N48˚48’ W113˚39’). This building group, constructed in 1915, is a series of chalets up to four stories tall on the shore of Swiftcurrent Lake. It is known as the ‘Gem of the West.’ There are stone foundations and basements with wood frame superstructures. The lobby has four stories of balconies with floor to ceiling logs (www.glacierparkinc.com).

Property 3 is the Granite Park Chalet (N48˚46’ W113˚48’), Glacier NP, Montana, a dormitory and dining hall on the edge of a subalpine meadow below Swiftcurrent Pass. This 1914 structure is accessible via an eight-mile hike on the Highline Trail west of the Continental Divide (www.graniteparkchalet.com).

Property 4 is Sperry Chalet, Glacier NP, Montana (N48˚36’ W113˚47’), a 23-room dormitory and dining hall in a glacial cirque. Built in 1914, this inn is reached via the seven-mile Sperry Trail (www.sperrychalet.com).

Property 5, Two Medicine Chalet, Glacier NP, Montana (N48˚29’ W113˚22’), is now used as a general store. Built in 1914, this structure is an enormous log building originally used as a dining hall.

The Prince of Wales Hotel in Waterton Lakes National Park in Canada was also built by the Great Northern Railway and is a national historic site of Canada.

Lake McDonald Lodge, Glacier NP, Montana (N48˚37’ W113˚52’), built as the Lewis Glacier Hotel, is one of the finest examples of Swiss chalet architecture in the U.S. It opened in 1914 and was intended to be a rival to the Great Northern Railway buildings being built at the same time. In the lodge, the concrete floors are scored with messages in Blackfoot, Chippewa, and Cree languages. The lobby is three stories high with balconies and tall cedar columns extending three stories high. The room is lined with mounted hunting trophies. The lodge is located on the Going-to-the-Sun Road, also a national historic landmark (www.glacierparkinc.com).

Lolo Trail, Clearwater National Forest, Idaho, Lolo National Forest, Montana, and private lands is a site on the Lewis and Clark and Nez Perce National Historic Trails and is believed to provide a landscape substantially similar to that found in 1805. Because the Salmon River Mountains west of Lemhi Pass were impassible and the Salmon River downstream from the pass could not be navigated, Lewis and Clark chose this more northerly Nez Perce hunting trail as their way to the Pacific. The 100-mile, September 11-21, 1805, crossing, in dense brush and snow, proved the most difficult of the transcontinental trip. The return trip in June 1806, also in snow, also was difficult. The trail connects modern day Lolo, Montana (N46˚46’ W114˚5’) with Weippe Prairie, Idaho (N46˚21’ W115˚55’), mostly in the Lolo and Clearwater National Forests. Later the Nez Perce Indians used the trail in their flight from the US Army in 1877. The Lolo Trail area is mostly defined by Forest Highway 500, although the original trail winds north and south of the modern road. The trail passes Lolo Creek Campground, Hungery Creek, Sherman Saddle, Indian Grave Peak, Indian Post Office, Papoose Saddle, and Packer Meadows in the Clearwater NF. Musselshell Meadows Special Area (N46˚21’ W115˚45’) is a traditional Indian camas root gathering area east of Weippe Prairie. From west to east, sites in the Clearwater NF are Musselshell Meadows, Horse Sweat Pass Camp (N46˚25’ W115˚22’), Spirit Revival Ridge Camp (N46˚25’ W115˚19’), Dry Camp (N46˚26’ W115˚16’), Greensward Camp (N46˚27’ W115˚15’), Indian Grave Camp (N46˚30’ W115˚9’), Lonesome Cove Camp (N46˚33’ W114˚59’), Bears Oil and Roots Camp (N46˚35’ W114˚55’), Snowbank Camp (N46˚35’ W114˚49’), and Glade Creek Camp (N46˚37’ W114˚35’). The trail, Lolo Pass, and Musselshell Meadows are sites of the Nez Perce National Historic Park, Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail, and Nez Perce National Historic Trail.

There is one National Natural Landmark in the North Central Rockies forests. Hobo Cedar Grove Botanical Area (N47˚5’ W116˚7’), St. Joe National Forest, Idaho (administered as part of the Idaho Panhandle National Forests), is a 700-acre area containing ten-foot-diameter trees. It is on Forest Road 3357 off of Forest Highway 321 north of Clarkia.

 

Part B  continues with units of the National Forest System

Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands, Part B

This post includes recreation lakes, the national trail system, and the national wildlife refuge system and related federal areas on the Rocky Mountain front and valleys of Montana. There are 11 federally operated or licensed Recreation Lakes in the Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands ecoregion.  In the Rocky Mountain front are the Milk River project to the north and the Sun River project west of Great Falls.

The Milk River project of the Bureau of Reclamation includes two facilities in the Montana Valley and Foothill grasslands ecoregion. St. Mary Diversion Dam, Montana (N48˚51’ W113˚25’) is along the Saint Mary River downstream of Lower St. Mary Lake on the Blackfeet Indian Reservation.  Water is diverted into 29-mile-long St. Mary Canal, which discharges into the North Fork Milk River just before it flows into Canada (N48˚59’ W113˚3’).  This water is captured 200 miles downstream at Fresno Reservoir where it is stored for irrigation use. Swift Current Dike, Montana (N48˚50’ W113˚26’) diverts water from Swiftcurrent Creek into the St. Mary Canal for use in the Milk River project downstream.

There are two facilities of the Sun River project of the Bureau of Reclamation in the Rocky Mountain front. Pishkun Dikes, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N47˚41’ W112˚28’) is an off-stream storage area receiving water from the Sun River and used for irrigation. Willow Creek Reservoir, Montana (N47˚33’ W112˚27’) stores water from Willow Creek and Sun River for later use in irrigation.

In the Missouri River valley are three recreation lakes. Holter Lake, PPL Montana, including Lower Holter Lake Special Recreation Management Area, Bureau of Land Management (BLM), Montana (N46˚59’ W112˚0’), is a 27-mile-long reservoir on the Missouri River that includes the Gates of the Mountains (N46˚53’ W111˚55’), a narrow gorge that the river has cut through the Rocky Mountains. There is a boat-in campground at Beartooth Landing. Recreation sites on the lake are managed by the BLM, including campgrounds and hiking trails.

Upstream from Holter Lake is Hauser Lake,PPL Montana, including Hauser Lake SRMA, BLM, Montana (N46˚46’ W111˚53’), 15 miles northeast of Helena.  The Prickly Pear Creek embayment, known as Lake Helena, contains marshland and riparian areas and is an IBA for passerines and waterfowl.  Black Sandy State Park is south of the dam on the main channel of the Missouri River. Lake Helena Wildlife Management Area, on the west end of Lake Helena, is 175 acres.  Reservoir recreation areas are managed by BLM.

Upstream of Hauser Lake is Canyon Ferry Lake, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N46˚38’ W111˚42’), an irrigation reservoir on the Missouri River east of Helena. A visitor center is at the dam. The reservoir is noted for eagles, terns, and pelicans. At the upper end near Townsend is Canyon Ferry Wildlife Management Area, an IBA for waterfowl.  This was constructed to reduce blowing dust from reservoir drawdowns.  Water is pumped from Canyon Ferry Lake to the Helena Valley Canal and its water is stored in the Helena Valley Reservoir. Reservoir recreation sites are part of the Uppermost Missouri SRMA of BLM Butte Field Office. Helena Valley Regulating Reservoir, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N46˚38’ W111˚52’), receives water pumped from Canyon Ferry Reservoir into Helena Valley Canal, which carries water to the reservoir at mile 11.  The canal continues for 20 miles to provide irrigation in the Helena Valley.

Upstream of the Three Forks of the Missouri in the Madison River valley is Ennis Lake and Madison Dam, PPL Montana, Montana (N45˚26’ W111˚40’).  This four-unit hydroelectric plant at Bear Trap Canyon north of Ennis also is part of the Madison Valley IBA.  The reservoir provides waterfowl habitat while the Madison River upstream to Ennis provides riparian habitat.

In the Beaverhead River valley are two reservoirs. Barretts Diversion Dam, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N45˚8’ W112˚44’), is at Exit 56 on I-15 on the Beaverhead River.  The dam diverts water to the East Bench Canal, which delivers water for 61 miles in the Dillon area. Clark Canyon Reservoir, Bureau of Reclamation, Montana (N45˚0’ W112˚52’) is located on I-15, Exit 44 on the Beaverhead River.  The reservoir delivers water 11 miles downstream to Barretts Diversion Dam for irrigation in the East Bench Canal.  Camp Fortunate on the Reservoir is a site on the Lewis and Clark NHT.

West of the Continental Divide on the Flathead River is an additional dam in the Montana Valley and Foothill grasslands. Flathead Lake and Kerr Dam, PPL Montana, Montana (N47˚41’ W114˚14’) incorporates Flathead Lake, the largest natural freshwater lake west of the Mississippi River in North America; the lake was raised ten feet by Kerr Dam on the Flathead River five miles southwest of Polson.

The National Trails System in the Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands includes two National Historic Trails (NHTs) and four national recreation trails. The Continental Divide National Scenic Trail passes through the ecoregion for a few miles where the trail crosses I-15 south of Butte at Exit 111 (N45˚52’ W112˚40’).

There are nine sites on the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail (NHT) in the Montana Valley and Foothill grasslands.  Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center, located near the Great Falls of the Missouri, serves as the trail headquarters and visitor center, managed by the Lewis and Clark National Forest. Six sites on the outbound journey are in the Montana Valley and Foothills grasslands. Gates of the Mountains, Holter Lake, Montana (N46˚53’ W111˚55’), a narrow gorge that the river has cut through the Rocky Mountains.  The 1,200-foot cliffs towering above the Missouri River were seen by Lewis and Clark in 1805. A boat tour is offered from the marina at Exit 209 on I-15, 20 miles north of Helena.

Upstream of Canyon Ferry Lake on the Missouri is the Missouri Headwaters State Park, described under National Historic Landmarks.  Further upstream on the Beaverhead River are Beaverhead Rock State Park and Beaverhead Rock Area of Critical Environmental Concern (ACEC), Bureau of Land Management (BLM), Montana (N45˚23’ W112˚28’), is on State Route 41 at the Beaverhead River crossing; this rock formation is associated with the Lewis and Clark expedition.  Sacajawea recognized the rock and thought she might be near her relatives, which led to a meeting with her brother and the securing of horses for the overland portion of the expedition.

Clark’s Lookout State Park, Montana (N45˚14’ W112˚38’) is on old US Route 91 one mile north of Dillon. This site provides a view of the Beaverhead Valley enjoyed by Captain William Clark during the Lewis and Clark expedition.  A monument shows the three compass readings taken by Clark.

Camp Fortunate Overlook, Bureau of Reclamation, Clark Canyon Reservoir, Montana (N45˚0’ W112˚52’), is the famous site where Lewis and Clark met the Shoshoni Tribe, reuniting Sacajawea with her people.  Supplies were stashed here for the return trip.  The site is under the reservoir. Further west on the outbound trip, Travelers Rest State Park is described under National Historic Landmarks.

On the return journey, Travelers Rest was also a site passed by Lewis and Clark. Other sites associated with the return journey are Camp Disappointment, described under National Historic Landmarks, and the Museum of the Plains Indian, US Department of the Interior, Indian Arts and Crafts Board, Browning, Montana (N48˚33’ W113˚1’), at the junction of US Routes 2 and 89 west of Browning. The museum displays northern plains Indian traditional costumes, horse gear, weapons, household implements, and toys.

Nez Perce NHT, Montana, commemorates sites associated with the Nez Perce flight from the U.S. Army in 1877. Rather than be forced to live on a reservation, the Nez Perce began a flight from Idaho to Canada. In 1877, they crossed into the Bitterrroot Valley near Lolo and headed south through the Bitterroot Valley, with the Army and volunteer settlers in pursuit.  An attempt by the Army to stop them was unsuccessful when they climbed a mountain to tht north of a barricade on Lolo Creek and avoided conflict.  This site later became known as Fort Fizzle (N46˚45’ W114˚10’), today on US Route 12 in the Lolo NF.  The Nez Perce later camped at Silverthorn Creek (N46˚30’ W114˚8’) west of Stevensville for several days in the Bitterroot Valley. The Army caught up with the Nez Perce at the site of today’s Big Hole National Battlefield, on the edge of the Anaconda Mountains. After the battle, the Nez Perce retreated and camped at Skinner Meadows (N45˚1’ W113˚31’), on Forest Road 381 in the Beaverhead NF. After obtaining horses in Horse Prairie, the Nez Perce are believed to have crossed into Idaho at Bannock Pass (N44˚49’ W113˚17’).

National Recreation Trails (NRT) in the Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands are grouped by the valley where they are located.  In the Madison River valley upstream from the Missouri Headwaters are Bear Trap NRT, BLM, Montana, a nine-mile trail beginning at Madison Power Plant (N45˚29’ W111˚38’) and following the Madison River in Bear Trap Canyon downstream through the Lee Metcalf Wilderness to near State Route 84 (N45˚35’ W111˚36’).  It is part of the Lower Madison SRMA.

In the Big Hole Valley is Big Hole Battlefield NRT, Big Hole National Battlefield, Montana (N45˚39’ W113˚39’). Approximately one-half mile of trails lead to important sites of the 1877 battlefield, including the Nez Perce campsite and the siege site where the soldiers were penned down.

In the Clark Fork watershed west of the Continental Divide are two NRTs. Garnet Winter NRT, BLM, Montana (N46˚53’ W113˚28’) is a 30-mile trail beginning on State Route 200 30 miles east of Missoula at the Greenough Post Office, offering views of the Blackfoot River Valley from the Garnet Range. Lee Metcalf Wildlife Viewing NRT, Lee Metcalf NWR, Montana (N46˚32’ W114˚6’), is a two-mile trail on the Bitterroot River with two loops off Wildfowl Lane in the southwest part of the refuge.

There are two National Wilderness areas in the Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands. Lee Metcalf Wilderness, Beaverhead and Gallatin NFs and BLM, Montana, is a 255,000-acre wilderness consisting of four separated units between US 287 and US 191 in the Madison Range.  Bear Trap Canyon unit (N45˚31’ W111˚37’) is administered by BLM and is 6,000 acres in the canyon of the Madison River. It is part of the Lower Madison SRMA. Red Rock Lakes Wilderness, Montana, is described under National Natural Landmarks.

The National Wildlife Refuge System in the Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands is an extensive collection of refuges, waterfowl production areas (WPAs), and conservation areas. In the Rocky Mountain front are four areas.  The Rocky Mountain Front Conservation Area, Montana, is a conservation easement area with up to 295,000 acres of conservation easements between the Blackfeet Indian Reservation (N48˚20’ W112˚33’) on the north, Lewis and Clark NF on the west, U.S. Route 287 on the east, and the South Fork Dearborn River valley (N47˚10’ W112˚13’) on the south.  It contains the largest remaining expanse of intact fescue grasslands in the northern Great Plains. Jarina WPA, Benton Lake Wetland Management District, Montana (N48˚11’, W112˚47’) is 6,400 acres of kettle lakes and native grassland at the base of the Rocky Mountains 14 miles west of Dupuyer on Swift Dam Road. Savik WPA, Benton Lake Wetland Management District Montana (N47˚57’ W112˚19’) is an alkaline wetland and native grassland area on U.S. 89 south of Bynum. Schrammeck Lake WPA, Benton Lake Wetland Management District, Montana, (N47˚14’ W111˚32’) is 400 acres including wetlands southeast of Cascade (exit 254 on I-15).

South of the Rocky Mountain front in the Missouri River watershed, Ennis National Fish Hatchery, Montana (N45˚13’ W111˚48’) is located at Blaine Spring in the Gravelly Range west of the Madison River. At the head of the Beaverhead Valley is Red Rock Lakes NWR and Wilderness, Montana (N44˚38’ W111˚47’), described under National Natural Landmarks.

West of the Continental Divide in the Clarks Fork watershed are sixxx areas. Blackfoot Valley Conservation Area, Montana, is along State Route 200 between Bonner (N46˚52’ W113˚52’) and Rogers Pass (N47˚5’ W112˚22’).  It also includes State Route 141 in the Nevada Creek watershed (N46˚42’ W112˚40’) and Route 83 in the Clearwater River valley (N47˚23’ W113˚38’).  The area contains a distinctive native bunchgrass prairie.  Up to 103,000 acres of conservation easements may be purchased.  The area contains sagebrush-grassland with glacial potholes and supports nesting Brewer’s sparrow and long-billed curlew and is an IBA.  The area also supports grizzly bear and bull trout.

Blackfoot WPA, Benton Lake Wetland Management District, Montana (N46˚58’ W112˚58’) is 1,700 acres of native grassland in the valley, Douglas fir forest on Marcum Mountain, and wetlands on State Route 200 and the Blackfoot River east of Ovando. The rolling terrain was left behind by the Blackfoot Valley glacier. H2-O WPA, Benton Lake Wetland Management Area, Montana (N46˚56’ W113˚2’) is in an old oxbow of the Blackfoot River in the Nevada Valley south of Ovando, containing 1,800 acres of grassland and wetlands. Kleinschmidt Lake WPA, Benton Lake Wetland Management District, Montana (N46˚58’ W113˚4’) is 1,100 acres of rolling grassland left by the Blackfoot Valley glacier in the Nevada Valley south of Ovando and is an IBA for Brewer’s sparrow and long-billed curlew. Upsata Lake WPA, Benton Lake Wetland Management District, Montana (N47˚4’ W113˚14’) is a wetland and grassland area of kettle lakes left by a glacier at the south end of the Swan Mountain range. It is north of Route 200 at the north part of the Blackfoot Valley.

In the Bitterroot Valley is Lee Metcalf NWR, Montana (N46˚34’ W114˚5’). This is a 2,800-acre floodplain refuge along the Bitterroot River and contains a mosaic of forest, grassland, and riparian habitat.  There are two trails for wildlife observation, including the Lee Metcalf NRT and Kenai Trail. Waterbirds, raptors, and songbirds may be seen. A 50-km stretch of the Bitterroot River from Woodside (N46˚19’ W114˚9’) to Lolo (N46˚45’ W114˚4’) including Lee Metcalf NWR is an IBA for Lewis’s woodpeckers, red-naped sapsuckers and other birds of riparian cottonwood habitat.

On the south side of Flathead Lake is the Mission Valley, which contains a number of refuge areas. National Bison Range, Montana (N47˚20’ W114˚13’), is 19,000 acres and maintains a bison herd of 350 to 500 animals on a low rolling mountain covered with native grassland and Douglas-fir forest.  A driving tour ascends Red Sleep Mountain and there are four short trails. The range is an IBA for bald eagle, Lewis’s woodpecker, and red-naped sapsucker.

Between the National Bison Range and Ninepipe NWR are four WPAs. Herak WPA, Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N47˚24’ W114˚10’) is 80 acres on West Post Creek Road west of US 93 between the National Bison Range and Ninepipe NWR. Sandsmark WPA, Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N47˚25’ W114˚9’) is 400 acres in the Mission Valley between the National Bison Range and Ninepipe NWR, between Logan, West Post Creek, and Ninepipe Roads. Johnson WPA, Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N47˚26’ W114˚12’) is 80 acres in the Flathead Valley west of Charlo southeast of the junction of Hall and Morris Roads. Montgomery WPA, Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N47˚26’ W114˚10’) is 80 acres in the Mission Valley south of Charlo to the southwest of Logan and Olsen Roads.

Ninepipe NWR, Montana (N47˚27’ W114˚7’), is a 1,000-acre easement refuge on tribal lands located on a Bureau of Indian Affairs reservoir on US 93 in the Mission Valley.  The refuge attracts waterfowl to the reservoir and surrounding grassland and prairie potholes, under easement of the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes. The refuge adjoins Ninepipe Wildlife Management Area (N47˚28’ W114˚7’), a 3,880 acre area of numerous prairie potholes northeast and southwest of the reservoir. Together, the two areas are an IBA for breeding grebes and double-crested cormorant.

Between Ninepipe and Pablo NWRs are four WPAs.  Kickinghorse WPA, Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N47˚28’ W114˚6’) is a 170-acre pothole area in the Flathead Valley on US 93 north of Ninepipe NWR. Duck Haven WPA, Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N47˚29’ W114˚7’) is a 700-acre prairie pothole area on US 93 and Duck Road in the Mission Valley. Anderson WPA, Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N47˚29’ W114˚8’) is west of US 93 off of Piedalue Road in the Mission Valley. Crow WPA, Northwest Montana Wetland Management District, Montana (N47˚29’ W114˚12’) is 1,500 acres north of Charlo in the Mission Valley.

Pablo NWR, Montana (N47˚38’ W114˚9’), is a 2,500-acre easement refuge on tribal lands located on a Bureau of Indian Affairs reservoir on US 93 in the Mission Valley.  The refuge is managed for waterfowl, under easement of the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes. Pablo Wildlife Management Area (N47˚38’ W114˚10’, 416 acres) adjoins the refuge, mostly on the north. Together, the two areas are an IBA for shorebirds and redhead ducks.

Other federal sites in the Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands include specially designated areas of the Bureau of Land Management. In the Missouri Valley are Sleeping Giant ACEC and SRMA, BLM, Montana (N46˚56’ W112˚3’), on the west side of Holter Lake, accessible from I-15 north of Helena, exit 226.  The 11,679 acres include seven miles of ridgeline hiking and recreation sites on upper Holter Lake.  The Sleeping Giant rock formation is visible from Helena. Scratchgravel Hills SRMA, BLM Butte Field Office, Montana (N46˚41’ W112˚5’) is northwest of Helena and contains numerous former mines. The area is a mountain biking area. The mine shafts and adits are gated and used by bats. The Elkhorn ACEC, BLM, Montana surrounds the Helena NF south of Helena between Radersburg and  Boulder (N46˚12’ W111˚53’) and northwest of Townsend (N46˚20’ W111˚39’). There is an elk herd and the designation also protects cultural resource sites. Uppermost Missouri SRMA, BLM, Montana, includes recreation areas along the Missouri River from Three Forks to Canyon Ferry Reservoir.  There is a trail at Crimson Bluff (N46˚18’ W111˚32’), on the west side of the Missouri River south of Townsend.  The Toston Dam area (46˚7’ W111˚24’) is known as the Little Gates of the Mountains.

In the Madison River valley is Revenue Flats Recreation Area, BLM Dillon Field Office, Montana (N45˚32’ W111˚46’), with hiking and rock climbing west of US 287 at Norris. Upper Madison River SRMA, BLM, Montana (N45˚4’ W111˚40’), includes the palisades of the Madison River, visible from two campgrounds.  West of the Madison River drainage are Ruby Mountains SRMA, BLM Dillon Field Office, Montana (N45˚19’ W112˚14’), an area of frested mountains and trails west of Virginia City managed for non-motorized recreation.

In the Beaverhead Valley is the Beaverhead Sage-Steppe area, BLM Dillon Field Office, Montana. This area includes basins and intermountain valleys along Grasshopper Creek west of I-15 (N45˚8’ W112˚56’), Sage Creek (N44˚26’ W112˚36’), and the Centennial Valley (N44˚38’ W112˚7’) between Lima and Red Rock Lakes NWR form an IBA for the sage grouse in the largest intact sagebrush habitat in Montana. Centennial Sandhills ACEC, BLM Dillon Field Office, Montana (N44˚42’ W111˚48’) is a 1,000-acre sand dune complex just north of Red Rock Lakes NWR; the area hosts rare plants. Centennial Valley Wetland and Waterfowl Production Areas, BLM, Montana (N44˚38’ W112˚10’) are 17,000 acres west of Red Rock Lakes used by peregrine, trumpeter swan, and other waterfowl.  There are also paleontological resources.  The area is centered around Lima Reservoir and areas to the east along the Red Rocks River.

Big Sheep Creek Backcountry Byway, BLM Dillon Field Office, Montana, is a loop from I-15 south of Dell which circles the Tendoy Mountains and includes Big Sheep Creek SRMA, a canyon (N44˚38’ W112˚47’) with trout and wildlife viewing opportunities. Everson Creek ACEC, BLM Dillon Field Office, Montana (N44˚54’ W113˚20’), is north of Bannock Pass and west of Horse Pasture.  The chert quarries here are believed to be the oldest archaeological site in Montana. Muddy Creek/Big Sheep Creek ACEC, BLM Dillon Field Office, Montana (N44˚41’ W112˚51’) is 13,000 acres with high palisades and scenic canyons in the Tendoy Mountains.  The area is also known for rock art. Rocky Hills SRMA, BLM Dillon Field Office, Montana (N45˚4’ W112˚54’) is between Bannack and I-15; it is a wilderness study area providing hiking opportunities. Henneberry Ridge is in the center of the area. South Pioneers SRMA, BLM Dillon Field Office, Montana (N45˚17’ W112˚48’) is west of Dillon and provides a mountain biking area along Rattlesnake Creek at the southeastern end of the Pioneer Mountains.

In the Big Hole River valley are more federal lands.  Lower Big Hole SRMA, BLM Dillon Field Office, Montana extends from near Twin Bridges on Route 41 (N45˚30’ W112˚27’) upstream to I-15 (N45˚44’ W112˚45’) and is a river recreation area. Block Mountain Area of Critical Environmental Concern, BLM Dillon Field Office, Montana (N45˚28’ W112˚33’) is on the Big Hole River between I-15 and Twin Bridges.  The 8,661-acre site is visited by geologic field trips to study its fold and thrust belt feature. Upper Big Hole River SRMA, BLM Butte Field Office, Montana extends from near Wisdom (N45˚45’ W113˚23’) downstream to Divide Bridge (N45˚45’ W112˚47’) and provides river recreation and hiking areas.  State Route 43 follows the river.

 

Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands, Part A

This ecoregion includes grasslands along the eastern edge of the Rocky Mountains (the Rocky Mountain Front) of Montana and Alberta, as well as the semiarid high mountain valleys defined by the Missouri River and its tributaries and the Yellowstone River and its tributaries.  The grassland continues west of  grasslands around Flathead Lake are also included in this ecoregion.

Within the Rocky Mountain Front area are hills and scattered buttes.  Evidence of glaciation is present in many areas, with pothole lakes, glacial moraines, and outwash plains. The grassland surrounding the Little Belt Mountains is limestone-rich,with some caverns in hills east of the Elkhorn Mountains. To the south, the area of the Missouri headwaters and upper Yellowstone tends to be more arid, with sagebrush steppe.  Other areas with sagebrush steppe are the Big Hole valley, Madison Valley, and Beaverhead River valley.

On the Rocky Mountain Front between Choteau, Montana and the Pine Butte Swamp, fossil remains of embryonic, hatchling, juvenile, and adult dinosaurs were found at Egg Mountain in 1979. The Egg Mountain site and the general vicinity has produced remains of adult and embryonic individuals of duck-billed dinosaurs and several other species.  There are several thousand individual fossils.  Each nest held 22 to 30 eggs, hatching babies about a foot long. The eggs appear to represent communal nests (Varrichio et al. 2008). Study of the juvenile dinosaur bones preserved at the Two Medicine Formation indicated that growth plates were present.  Growth plates are discs of cartilage found in birds that are involved in rapid bone elongation during development. The presence of growth plates provided additional evidence that birds are evolutionarily linked to dinosaurs and that dinosaurs were the ancestors of birds (Barreto et al. 1993). Rapid bone growth also implies that these dinosaurs were warm-blooded. Another major implication and finding from the studies of the Two Medicine Formation are that dinosaurs provided parental care, and that that care was provided by both males and females.  This finding indicates that bird parental care originated with their dinosaur ancestors (Varricchio et al. 2008). The climate where the dinosaurs nested is believed to have been semiarid, and this is confirmed by insect trace fossils of wasps and bees and their burrows that are visible in the rocks.  There are so many cocoons that the outcrop is nicknamed Pete’s Pupa Peninsula (Martin and Varricchio 2011).

As a result of the discoveries of dinosaurs on the Rocky Mountain front, the vicinity of Choteau attracted amateur fossil hunters, some of which trespassed on private property and damaged fossil localities (Potera 1995).  In order to get some control over the situation, the Nature Conservancy purchased Egg Mountain, which is now owned by the Museum of the Rockies. The Two Medicine Dinosaur Center in Bynum, Montana, offers field paleontology workshops at sites on the Rocky Mountain front.

The Montana Valley and Foothill grasslands contains a key archaeological site related to the peopling of the Americas.  Evidence from molecular, genetic, and archaeological records suggests that humans dispersed from southern Siberia, in the Trans-Baikal region (subject of a future post) after the last glacial maximum, arriving in the Americas as the continental ice sheet receded and a coastal corridor opened up.  The founding population is believed to be as low at 5,000 (Goebel, Waters, and O’Rourke 2008), and there are believed to have been several waves of migration.

By about 11,000 years before present (BP), a distinctive type of fluted stone projectile point, along with bone and ivory tools, was in use throughout the Americas, known as the Clovis point. Bone and ivory tools were used as foreshafts to attach fluted projectile points, which provided a weapon that could slay mammoths and other large animals, helping to explain how early hunters were able to kill animals 12 feet in height and weighting several tons (Lahren and Bonnichsen 1974).  It is believed that Clovis technology originated and spread throughout North America in as little as 200 years (Waters and Stafford 2007). In 1968 near Wilsall, Montana, in this ecoregion, a child skeleton was found in a burial at the Anzick site. The burial was in a rockshelter near a buffalo jump. The site also included one other skeleton and over 100 stone and bone artifacts (Lahren and Bonnichsen 1974).  One skeleton has been dated to 12,600 years BP. In 2014, the full genome was reconstructed, and the results confirm that the individual was related to the Central and South American Indian community, which is in turn related to the Siberian people (Rasmussen et al. 2014).

The Butte-Anaconda area is the nation’s largest National Historic Landmark District, as described below.  However, over 100 years of mining at Butte and Anaconda produced a large concentration of areas in the floodplain that are contaminated with metals.  These areas extend from Butte and Walkerville 26 miles downstream along Silver Bow and the Clark Fork River. Metals also accumulated in the Milltown Reservoir area upstream from Missoula.  These areas are currently in various stages of cleanup as Superfund sites.

There are 11 National Historic Landmarks (NHLs) in the Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands, including the nation’s largest multi-site landmark at Butte.  Four sites are associated with the Lewis and Clark expedition. Great Falls Portage is located both upstream and downstream of present-day Great Falls, Montana; the NHL includes the upper and lower campsites and portage routes; the middle portage route has been obliterated by modern-day Malmstrom AFB and the city of Great Falls. The portage lands in the NHL are privately owned. The lower portage campsite is one mile downstream from the mouth of Belt Creek (N47˚37’ W111˚3’). It includes the campsite, Sulphur Spring, which is opposite of the mouth of Belt Creek, the gorge below Morony Dam, and the portage corridor to the east end of Malmstrom AFB (N47˚30’ W111˚9’). The upper portage includes a site on River Drive, south of Great Falls, on the east bank of the Missouri River (N47˚28’ W111˚18’). The portage corridor extends northeast to Mount Olivet Cemetery (N47˚29’ W111˚15’).

Missouri Headwaters State Park (N45˚56’ W111˚30’) protects the Three Forks of the Missouri NHL. Trails lead to the confluence of the Jefferson and Madison, which is the beginning of the Missouri River, and to Fort Rock, an overlook of the area. The confluence of the Jefferson, Madison, and Gallatin Rivers contains riparian habitat that supports passerines. It is an IBA for red-naped sapsucker, least flycatcher, and catbird. It is reached from Exit 278 on I-90 at Three Forks.

Traveler’s Rest State Park (N46˚45’ W114˚6’) is just off of U.S. Route 12 west of U.S. Route 93 along Lolo Creek. It houses the only archaeologically verified campsite of the Lewis and Clark expedition. The actually centuries-old campsite was used from September 9-11, 1805, on the way west, and then again from June 30 to July 3, 1806, on the return trip. In 2002, a latrine, cooking fire, and other artifacts were found, reinforcing its status as a pivotal site on the Lewis and Clark Trail.

Camp Disappointment (N48˚40’ W112˚49’) is a privately owned site between Browning and Cut Bank. This meadow located below a large cliff beside Cut Bank Creek is the most likely location of the northernmost camp of the Lewis and Clark Expedition in 1806. The expedition group exploring this area was led by Meriwether Lewis, and the purpose of this circuit was to determine if any tributary of the Missouri reached the latitude of 50 degrees north. The disappointment was that the river system did not contain tributaries reaching that far north. It was important to know the northern extent of the drainage of the Missouri River, because this would define the northern boundary of the Louisiana Purchase territory and the future United States boundary between Lake of the Woods and the Pacific (other tributaries of the Missouri, notably the Milk and Frenchman Rivers, do extend north of the 49th parallel but not north of the 50th). Later diplomacy set the boundary at the 49th parallel, where it remains today.  At the camp, Lewis and his group encountered the Blackfeet Indians. When the Indians attempted to steal the guns and drive off their horses, three Indians were killed, the only deaths of Indians during the entire journey. Also at the site is a 300-foot-high cliff which was a buffalo jump. The creek which washes by the foot of the cliff has exposed animal bones.

Four NHLs are associated with territorial history. Bannack State Park and Whites Bear Mine (BLM)) (N45˚10’ W113˚0’), are Montana’s first territorial capital and the site of the first gold discovery in 1862. The state site includes 50 buildings along Main Street. About half of the buildings are pre-1890 and from the territorial period, including the Masonic Temple, Methodist Church, and Court House/Hotel. Ditches were dug to bring water 30 miles to increase water supply. The NHL includes the town, the gallows site, and the Whites Bar Mine (two miles east on Grasshopper Creek).

Virginia City Historic Properties, Montana Heritage Commission, and Virginia City Area of Critical Environmental Concern (ACEC), Bureau of Land Management (BLM) (N45˚18’ W111˚57’), are on State Route 287. Virginia City and nearby Nevada City are gold mining boom towns from the 1860s. There are over 100 buildings complete with artifacts and furnishings in Virginia City, and 14 buildings in Nevada City with 100 other buildings moved from elsewhere to create a living history exhibit. The state owns a quarter of the buildings in Virginia City and all of Nevada City.

Grant-Kohrs Ranch National Historic Site (N46˚25’ W112˚45’), on I-90 at Exit 184 on the north side of Deer Lodge, commemorates the role of cattlemen and the open range cattle industry in American history. The period of significance for the ranch is 1862 to 1919, when the ranch was headquarters of a ten-million-acre cattle empire. The site is 1,618 acres on the Clark Fork River. Ranch buildings, which have original furnishings, are on site. Ranching activities continue for historical interpretation.

C.M. Russell Museum (N47˚31’ W111˚17’) includes the home and studio of America’s foremost western artist, Charles M. Russell.  He first went to Montana four years after Custer’s last stand and was able to witness Montana territory before it was settled. At that time, there were Indian tribes pursuing tranditional activities and large herds of buffalo. He recorded his experiences in paintings, and in 1886 had a painting displayed at the St. Louis Art Exposition. After riding the range, he settled in Great Falls in 1900 to paint full time. In the statuary hall of the U.S. Capitol, a statue of Russell represents the state of Montana. The National Historic Landmark house and studio are included in a larger complex called the C.M. Russell Museum, owned by the City of Great Falls.

The remaining three sites are associated with the statehood period and 20th century history of Montana.  Butte-Anaconda Historic District includes the towns of Anaconda and Walkerville and the track of the Butte, Anaconda, and Pacific Railway between Butte and Anaconda. There are 5,991 contributing properties, making this the nation’s largest NHL. This area was designated because of its historic copper production, its role in westward expansion, and its part in the history of the labor movement in the U.S.

The Anaconda portion of the district (N46˚8’ W112˚57’) is a late 19th century company town, where the company operated the smelters, railroad, bank, newspaper, hotel, and other properties. There are three historic districts included in the Anaconda portion of the NHL. The Anaconda Commercial District is a 12-block area on State Route 1 at Main Street. To the west is the West Side Neighborhood, which was built for professional and managerial classes, and to the east is the Goosetown neighborhood, built for the workers. The original copper smelters, known as the Anaconda Old Works, were constructed in two sites on the north edge of town. The copper smelters were established at the beginning of the electrification of the country, and the need for copper wire led to a 30-year boom as the world’s greatest copper-producing center.

Copper ore was transported between Butte and Anaconda by the Butte, Anaconda, and Pacific Railroad, which is a constitutent of the NHL. The main rail yard for the Butte Anaconda, and Pacific RR is located on the northwest side of Anaconda (N46˚8’ W112˚58’). There are 41 miles of track. The Anaconda Depot and Roundhouse are outstanding examples of railroad architecture.

The smelters in Anaconda created large amounts of sulfur and arsenic-laden smoke, which, in addition to affecting human health, damaged vegetation in the Deerlodge NF and nearby farms. As a result, a tall smokestack with pollution control equipment was built for the new Washoe works to the east of Anaconda. The Old Works closed with the opening of the new facility in 1902. Anaconda Smoke Stack State Park, Montana (N46˚7’ W112˚56’) is the largest free-standing brick structure in the world. At 585 feet, it is on a hill overlooking Anaconda and is part of the NHL. The smelters have been dismantled, so it is all that remains of the industrial properties. To reduce pollution of Warm Springs Creek, tailing ponds were constructed.

Butte was originally established as a gold rush town in 1864. The gold mines were quickly supplanted by the silver mines (1874), then copper mines (1880s), to which the town owes its existence. By 1884, more than $1 million per month in copper and silver were being mined. The Centerville working class neighborhood (N46˚1’ W112˚32’) is located around the headframes and mine entrances just to the north of downtown, centered at Park and Main Streets. To the east of downtown is the Berkeley Open Pit mine.  South Butte is a distinct area with railroads and warehouses.  Butte’s Victorian era upper classes lived in the Westside neighborhood, near Montana Tech. Around town there are 14 remaining headframes that were used to haul the ore from the depths of the earth, and 15 extant mines in the city. In south Butte along Harrison Avenue north of I-90, Exit 127, is Socialist Hall (N46˚0’ W112˚31’), which opened in 1916, following the election of Socialist mayors in Anaconda and Butte during the previous decade. Passage of sedition legislation, the lynching of International Workers of the World leader Frank Little in Butte, and union-busting activities of the mining companies within a couple of years quickly ended Socialist Party activities in Montana.

Walkerville (N46˚2’ W112˚32’) is to the north of Centerville and a separate city from Butte. It is notable for its immigrant housing from the late 1800s, much of which is still standing. There are also remaining commercial buildings from the period. The Alice, Lexington, and Moulton silver mines in Walkerville were Montana’s richest.

The Butte, Anaconda, and Pacific Railway ties Centerville on the north side of Butte with Anaconda via the rail yards at Rocker (N46˚0’ W112˚37’), where ore cars were assembled into full-length trains. At East Anaconda, the trains were disassembled into individual cars to be pulled up to the smelters.

Rankin Ranch, William D. Rankin estate, adjacent to Helena National Forest, Montana (N46˚38’ W111˚34’) is the home of Jeanette Rankin, the first woman elected to the U.S. House of Representatives.  She spent her summers at this ranch east of today’s Canyon Ferry Lake on the edge of the Big Belt Mountains. Rankin was a lifelong advocate for women’s suffrage. She was the first woman in the world elected to a national representative body, and was elected at a time when most states did not allow women to vote, although Montana did. She served one term in 1917-1919 and another in 1941-1943. This famously put her in a position to vote against entering both world wars. She was the only representative to vote against the declaration of war on Japan. This ranch, located on Forest Highway 359 along Avalanche Gulch on the east side of Canyon Ferry Lake, was her summer home from 1923 to 1956.

Burton K. Wheeler House, Butte, Montana (N46˚0’ W112˚31’) was the home of a Montana lawyer elected to the U.S. Senate in 1922.  He initially focused on oversight of the Attorney General activities during the Teapot Dome scandal. He then ran for Vice President on the Progressive Party ticket with Robert LaFollette. An early supporter of Franklin D. Roosevelt, he broke with the New Deal over the attempt to pack the Supreme Court in 1937. He was also critical of Roosevelt’s foreign policy.

There are two National Natural Landmarks (NNLs) in the Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands. Glacial Lake Missoula, Camas Prairie Current Ripples, Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes of the Flathead Nation and private lands (N47˚31’ W114˚35’) can be seen from Secondary Route 382 south of Hot Springs and north of Perma. The giant current ripples indicate a flood of dramatic proportions, caused when an ice dam 2,500 feet in height near present-day Lake Pend Oreille burst and Lake Missoula drained.

Red Rock Lakes National Wildlife Refuge and Red Rock Lakes Wilderness, Montana (N44˚38’ W111˚47’) is an undisturbed, high altitude ecosystem representative of pre-European settlement conditions. There are wetlands, grasslands, shrublands, and forests in a valley framed by mountain peaks to the north and south.  The refuge is 69,000 acres, 32,350 acres of which is designated Wilderness. It is the largest wetland complex in the greater Yellowstone area and has played an integral role in the restoration of the trumpeter swan. The refuge supports the last endemic adfluvial population of the Arctic grayling in the lower 48 states, and provides habitat for a wintering moose population. To provide greater protection for the area, the Centennial Valley Conservation Easement Program plans to acquire up to 42,000 acres of easements.  Bureau of Land Management (BLM) properties within the conservation easement acquisition boundaries are managed as the Centennial Valley Wetland and Waterfowl Production Area and the Centennial Sandhills Area of Critical Environmental Concern. The Nature Conservancy’s Centennial Sandhills preserve is also in this area.

A number of units of the National Forest System include Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands habitats. The following sites are located in the ecoregion. The Beaverhead NF includes the Lima-Tendoy Landscape of the Beaverhead Mountains and Tendoy Mountains.  In this area the grasslands transition directly to rocky peaks without an intervening band of forest. Browns Creek (N45˚8’ W113˚15’) and Deadman Creek (N44˚28’ W112˚51’) are considered eligible for the wild and scenic river system.  Horse Prairie Research Natural Area (RNA) (N45˚1 W113˚19’) is fenced to exclude livestock and includes sagebrush-fescue habitats with some Douglas-fir forests.

Bitterroot NF contains scattered tracts in the Bitterroot Valley. The Darby Ranger Station, Visitor Center, and Museum (N46˚2’ W114˚11’), is a facility of the National Museum of Forest Service History. Sawmill Creek RNA (N46˚27’ W113˚53’) is east of Stevensville off Forest Road 710 in the Sapphire Range. This contains the best remaining grassland in the Bitterroot Valley and a dry conifer forest of ponderosa pine, Douglas-fir, and Rocky Mountain juniper.

Lewis and Clark NF, Montana, includes the Highwood Mountains in the Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands ecoregion. The 7,000-foot Highwood Mountains are 45,000 acres and include a mosaic of timber, meadow, and rock outcrops. They are volcanic in origin. Thain Creek Campground (N47˚29’ W110˚35’) is a hiking area with a six-mile loop trail.

In the Lolo NF, the Blue Mountain trail system (46˚50’ W114˚5’) is two miles southwest of Missoula off of U.S. Route 93, with 41 miles of trails. The Remount Depot at Ninemile Visitor Center and Ninemile Wildlands Training Center, located at Exit 85 on I-90, is a historic site used for mule breeding for fighting fires (N47˚2’ W114˚19’). Council Grove RNA (N46˚55’ W114˚11’) is a riparian flood terrace on the Clark Fork River adjacent to Council Grove State Park just west of Missoula. A 33-km stretch of the Clark Fork and Bitterroot Rivers on the Lolo NF boundary from US 12 (N46˚50’ W114˚3’) downstream to Frenchtown (N47˚0’ W114˚16’) is an IBA for Lewis’s woodpecker, red-naped sapsucker, and waterfowl.

The National Park system in the Montana Valley and Foothill Grasslands includes Grant-Kohrs Ranch, previously described under NHLs. Nez Perce National Historical Park, a multi-unit park in Idaho-Montana-Oregon-Washington, commemorates the sites, stories, and artifacts of the Nez Perce Tribe. Big Hole National Battlefield, Montana (N45˚39’ W113˚39’) is one of 38 units of the park. Approximately one-half mile of trails lead to important sites of the 1877 battlefield, including the Nez Perce campsite and the siege site where the soldiers were penned down.

References

Barreto, Claudio et al. 1993.  Evidence of the Growth Plate and the Growth of Long Bones in Juvenile Dinosaurs.  Science 262:2020-2023.

Goebel, Ted, Michael R. Waters and Dennis H. O’Rourke. 2008. The Late Pleistocene Dispersal of Modern Humans in the Americas.  Science 319:1497-1502.

Lahren, Larry, and Robson Bonnichsen. 1974. Bone Foreshafts from a Clovis Burial in Southwestern Montana. Science 186:147-150.

Martin, Anthony J. and David J. Varricchio. 2011. Paleoecological Utility of Insect Trace Fossils in Dinosaur Nesting Sites of the Two Medicine Formation (Campanian), Choteau, Montana.  Historical Biology 23:15-25.

Potera, Carol. 1995. Amateur Fossil Hunters Dig Up Trouble in Montana. Science 268:198-199.

Rasmussen, Morten et al.  2014.  The Genome of a Late Pleistocene Human from a Clovis Burial Site in Western Montana. Nature 506:225-229.

Varricchio, David J. et al. 2008.  Avian Parental Care Had Dinosaur Origin. Science 322:1826-1828.

Waters, Michael R. and Thomas W. Stafford Jr. 2007. Redefining the Age of Clovis: Implications for the Peopling of the Americas. Science 315:1122-1126.

to be continued